Isfahan

Understand

The city is 430 km south of Tehran at the foothills of the Zagros mountain range, and enjoys a temperate climate and regular seasons. Isfahan sits on the main north–south and east–west routes crossing Iran. Much of the splendor of the city, including most of its finest monuments, date back to the Safavid era (1501-1736), for most of which the city was the imperial capital of Persia. The city has an Armenian quarter called New Jolfa established by Shah Abbas I in the 1600s. The district is named after the town of Julfa, still existing along the Aras river, from where Armenians were forcefully relocated during the development of Isfahan. They were allocated land south of the Zayandeh river, and built a prosperous community thanks to international trade networks. Today the quarter still has many Armenian churches and institutions.

Getting there

Isfahan is well-connected by all modes of transport.

By plane 1 Isfahan International Airport (Isfahan Shahid Beheshti, IFN IATA) (30 km north-east away from the city centre), ☏ +98 31 3527 5063. It was a military air base before the revolution. There are daily flights to Tehran and Mashhad in Iran. There are also flights to Dubai, Kuwait and Istanbul. (updated Mar 2017) Getting there: From the airport taxi costs 350,000 rials to the city centre (as of 2016). Besides, there are direct buses to Tehran's Imam Khomeini International Airport leave from Terminal-e Kaveh at 13:00, 18:00, 20:30 (and possibly other times as well). A trip costs 275,000 rials and takes under 6 hours (as of Sep 2016).

By train There is a night-train to Tehran and a daily train to Mashhad. There are no trains to Shiraz. The night train from Tehran to Isfahan costs 240,000 rials for sleeping in a comfortable 6-bed compartment. Getting there: take bus #37 from the train station to Soffe Bus Terminal (ترمینال صفه;), where you can change for bus #91 to old town. The best place to get off is Chaharbaq street, where there are many hostels, hotels, cafés and things to see.

2 Isfahan railway station (15 km south of city centre). (updated Nov 2020)

By car Isfahan is well-served by highways. There are good routes to the capital Tehran, Kashan, Shiraz, Yazd and Ahvaz.

By bus Isfahan is well connected to most parts of Iran by bus. There are several bus terminals in Isfahan and you should note which one is more suitable for you. From Tehran the busiest and most comfortable bus terminal to get to Isfahan is Beyhaghi terminal (known also as Argentina terminal) and Southern Terminal. Also there are a few luxury buses with a so-called "European standard" (very comfortable seats, open mini-bar, etc.)

Royal Safar Iranian is one a few luxury bus operators. Seats are extremely comfortable with lots of leg room. Water and snacks are provided and movies are shown. The ticket to Tehran costs 300,000 rials, and takes around 5 hours. 3 Kaveh terminal (7 km north of the city center). Buses to Tehran and Kashan depart every 15 minutes from this terminal. (updated Mar 2017) 4 Sofeh Bus Station (south of the city). Buses coming from Shiraz terminate at this bus station. (In Shiraz they depart Karandish Bus Terminal.) The ticket price is around 300,000 rials and takes around 6 hours. Getting there: take bus No. 91 going south. (updated Mar 2017) 5 Jey Terminal (Terminal J.) (7 km east of city center). Serves destinations east of Isfahan, incl. Varzaneh, Na'in and Yazd. There are shops and cafes i

Getting around

By metro A metro opened in October 2015

By bus The easiest and the cheapest way of traveling inside of Isfahan is buying Isfahan card which is a multi-journey contactless card sold at certain bus stop booths. A single journey costs 5,000 rials when using Isfahan card or 10,000 rials if paid directly to a bus driver (as of 2017). There are separate sections in a bus: front - for men and rear - for women.

By taxi Short rides cost 50,000 rials, longer ones to Soffeh mountain and bus terminals - 100,000 rials (as of 2007). Taxi drivers will try to demand at least double of those prices at the beginning.

See

Squares and streets

1 Naqsh-e Jahan Square. Also known as shah square or imam square-1602 (Meidan Emam). The square contains two mosques, a palace, and the bazaar. The square is the largest historical public square in the world after Tiananmen Square in Beijing and it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The square is surrounded by buildings from the Safavid era, and souvenir shops. This a very popular place for locals to picnic on Friday and holiday evenings. When sitting on the grass locals will approach you to practise their English. Free. (updated Oct 2019) 2 Chaharbagh Boulevard. 1596, dating from the Saffavid era, the avenue is the most historically famous in all of Persia. Although it's just a regular street nowadays. (updated Jun 2015) 3 Meydan Kohne. (updated Jun 2015) Shahshahan Square. (updated Jun 2015)

Mosques

The stunning mosques of Isfahan are among the most beautiful and interesting in the world. see Islam for background.

4 Imam Mosque (called Shah Mosque before the revolution), Naqsh-e Jahan Square, south side. Built during the Safavid period, it is an excellent example of Islamic architecture of Iran, and regarded as one of the masterpieces of Persian Architecture. It is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its splendour is mainly due to the beauty of its seven-colour mosaic tiles and calligraphic inscriptions. 200,000 rials. (updated Oct 2019) 5 Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque, Naqsh-e Jahan Square, east side. Closed from 12:00-13:00. One of the architectural masterpieces of Safavid Iranian architecture, this mosque is considered to be the most beautiful in Iran. Built in 1602 by Shah Abbas I and designed by his chief architect, Sheikh Bahai. The mosque was designed to be a private mosque for the royal family and therefore it does not have any minarets. There is a tunnel from the mosque to the Royal Palace, across the square. 200,000 rials. (updated Oct 2019) 6 Masjed-e Jāmé of Isfahan, north of Naqsh-e Jahan Square in the old quarter. Started in AD 842, this is the first Islamic building to adopt the four-courtyard layout of Sassanid palaces. 200,000 rials. (updated Apr 2017) 7 Hakim Mosque, Hakim (north of Naqsh-e Jahan in the old quarter). One of the oldest mosques in Isfahan. Built by Shah Abbas II between 1656 and 1662. Located on the site of a 10th-century mosque. The portal was covered in mud until it was discovered in 1956. Free. (updated Apr 2017)

Palaces

8 Ālī Qāpū (The Royal Palace). Early 17th century. It is 48 meters high and there are seven floors, each accessible by a difficult spiral staircase. In the sixth

Do

2 Soffeh Mountain (8 km south of the city; 100,000 rials by taxi). Popular picnic spot for locals. It's possible to climb up the mountain which will take about 3 hours return. Or catch a telecabin up for 200,000 rials at the 1 lower chairlift station. Besides, there is a bowling underneath the telecabin station. (updated Apr 2017)

Buy

Shops in the main square must pay an additional 8% tax on sales, which is passed on to the customer. Unless the item that you are purchasing is unique or inexpensive, you may be better off shopping outside of the main square. For a real treasure trove, visit the famous bazaar. As for many things in Iran, you usually have to haggle for a reasonable price.

Isfahan carpets are world-famous, being among the most finely woven of the Persian carpets; they are also often extremely expensive. Carpets from the nearby town of Na'in are similar in style, also well-known, and are expensive too. Top-grade Isfahan or Na'in carpets have over 600 knots per square inch, about one knot per square mm. The carpet shops in the bazaar have a fine selection of other carpets as well, including moderately-priced lower-grade Isfahans and carpets from all over Iran. These include all the other major Persian carpet-weaving cities, plus some fine rugs from minority ethnic groups such as Turkomans in the north and Baluchis in the east. Rugs from outside Iran are less common. For those who are interested, it is possible to buy the highly decorative and brightly coloured traditional dress of Isfahan, but such clothing can be expensive. Miniatures These exquisite miniature paintings are painted on camel bone. Most of them are sold framed, and prices start from about 15,000 rials. It can be more costly if the artwork is done by a miniature master. Shop and look at various shops before making your decision. Metalwork. Isfahan is one of the main centers for traditional Iranian metalwork. Most pieces are copper or brass; some are decorated only by hammering, but most have engraving and some have enamel work. Isfahan cloth is hand-printed with elaborate designs, usually on a beige background.

Eat

In some parks, you can simply obtain a carpet and tea from the park warden, and have a picnic on the grass! You will find families gather in these parks, and bring barbecues and cook freshly made kebabs, which smell (and taste) delicious. Na'an is Persian for bread and the word is used in various Indian languages for their version of Persian-style bread. That can be excellent, but some prefer the Persian original. Arguably the best of the lot is found in Isfahan's Armenian quarter, Jolfa.

Local foods Chelo kebab (kebab with rice) is a must; there are regional variations in Isfahan. Beryani is a popular lunch dish in Isfahan. It is made with sheep meat and lung. Although Iranians love this meal, it is very fatty. Therefore, some westerners may dislike Beryani. Fereni (a concoction of rice flour, water and milk) at Fereni Hafez, which is along Hafez Street near Imam Square. It costs 3,000 rials for a small bowl or 5,000 rials for a bigger one. Safran ice cream

Restaurants Shem Shad Restaurant (شمشاد), Hafez Street (from Naqsh-e Jahan Square walk down Hafez Street 100 m, it's on the right), ☏ +98 9132039884. breakfast 04:00-09:00, lunch 11:00-14:00, dinner 14:00-23:00. The small restaurant offers local Isfahan food like Beryani (110,000 rials) or Halim Bademjan (eggplant, 50,000 rials). from 50,000 rials. (updated Nov 2016) Naqsh-e Jahan Traditional Restaurant, Naqsh-e Jahan Square, eastern side, first floor (at eastern side of square, take one of the alleys to enter a small square and climb the stairs). In this restaurant you sit on benches. The windows are colourful. (updated Oct 2019) 1 Shahrzad restaurant, Abbas Abad St (nearing The Bridge of 33 Arches), ☏ +98 31 3220 4490. daily 11ː30-22ː30. A famous restaurant with a very long history. Some waiters can speak English. Its lamb chop are reported as delicious. (updated Aug 2019)

Drink & nightlife

Visit one of the tea-houses in the bazaar or under one of the bridges.

1 Behesht Cafe, Harunia St, Moshir St, Hatef St, ☏ +98 31 32229848, toll-free: +98 9354954311, [email protected]. 8:00-22:00. (updated Oct 2018) 2 Cafe Ax, hafez st,isfahan. 8:00-22:00. modern café with fresh smoothies (updated Oct 2019)

Coffee There are lots of coffee shops in Isfahan.

Feel Cafe, Mir Fendereski St.. One of the most popular cafés in Isfahan. (updated Apr 2017) 3 Pasio Cafe, #19 Kazerooni Alley, Chaharbagh Abbasi St., ☏ +98 3132204425. takeaway, reservations, outdoor seating, waitstaff, highchairs available, wheelchair accessible, free wifi (updated Jul 2018)

Sleep

1 Narcis B&B, No 36 Roknolmolk alley Neshat street (10 min driving frome bus station to Narcis B&B), ☏ +98 9133940678, [email protected]. Check-in: 2 pm, check-out: 10 am. Narcis B&B is a fully fledged private guesthouse with two guest rooms available for up to 7 guests, bathroom featuring both Eastern and Western toilet, a large hall, a large living room and a small balcony, a kitchen with everything you may need if you decide to cook for yourself. You can also use the fridge. It's possible to order homemade or local food for lunch and dinner with little extra fee. start from 20 Eurose. (updated May 2022)

Budget 2 Howzak House, 8148783471, #31, ArabHa alley (next to Qazi Hajat mosque, Baba Sangaki alley, Shams alley, West of Qazi Bazaar, 37th (MirAlaedin) Street, Ebn e Sina Street), ☏ +98 9120610643, [email protected]. Check-in: 14, check-out: 12. Howzak House has 5 rooms grouped around a central green and flourishing courtyard. There are two shared bathrooms and one kitchenette shared by our lovely guests. Seasonal and local breakfast is served in the courtyard from 08:00 until 10:00 and it varies every day. Howzak Boutique Hostel in Isfahan is a small and cosy house built more than 90 years ago in the historic neighborhood of Esfahan, a short distance away from the UNESCO-listed site Masjed-e Jame, the city’s magnificent Friday mosque. Before opening its doors to tourists and city visitors, Howzak House, had been privately owned by two generations of the Khanoum family: Goli Khanoum, who was the neighborhood’s girls’ teacher, and Malek Khanoum, who had lived with her five children in this house. starts from €15. (updated Nov 2019) 3 Annie Hostel, Sheikh Bahaei street, alley number 28, building number 34 (from Kaveh terminal by bus 16, from Sofe terminal by bus 34), ☏ +98 9394593471, [email protected]. Annie Hostel is a friendly place for budget travelers. The owner and staff are backpackers and can speak English. From the hostel, you can walk 15 min to the city center. There are plenty of restaurants, fast food places and grocery shops nearby. They are flexible about their prices. €5. (updated Oct 2018) 4 Hi Hostel (Seven Hostel), Charbagh Street (check HI Isfahan Hostel website), ☏ +98 31 3220 0308. Check-in: 14, check-out: 12 but pretty flexible. HI Isfahan Hostel is a Comfortable, Clean and Affordable, budget hostel in Isfahan, budget accommodation. Dorm. single&double bed room, Breakfast and Wifi included, shared bathroom Dormː €7 Private SIngleː €10. 5 Khalvat House Hostel (Khalvat Sara), No 8, Tayeb St. (corner of Sarlat St. and

Go next

Dasht-e-Kavir (central desert of Iran) is reached by a 6-hour bus journey from Isfahan. You'll find oases, salt lakes, etc. Kashan is famous for its beautiful mansions from the 1800s and its gardens. Also carpets. Na’in is the first desert town toward the east, a small and quiet town at the edge of the desert. A perfect pattern of a desert town. It is famous for carpets; the style and quality are similar to those of Isfahan. Qom is a holy city on the highway north toward Tehran. Shiraz is around 6 hours south of Isfahan by bus. Toudeshk-Cho is 100 km from Isfahan, on the way to Yazd. It is a quaint traditional desert village and it is easy to get to from the Jey Minibus terminal. It is well known among backpackers as the location of the Tak-Taku Homestay.