Isabela Island

Understand

In the western part of the archipelago, Isabela is larger than all of the rest of the islands combined. Comprising six volcanos, the island is about 120 km long and covers 4,585 square km. Its highest point on Wolf Volcano rises 1,700 m above sea level. Due to most of the visitor sites being on the western side of the island, far from Santa Cruz, only the longer (and hence more expensive) boat tours visit this island. See the Galapagos wildlife page for information on the flora and fauna of the islands.

Getting there

By boat There are public speedboats operated by Ferry Galapagos, running twice a day from Puerto Ayora (Santa Cruz), departing at 7am and 3pm. Persons subject to seasickness should take appropriate precautions for this often bumpy ride. The four seats at the end of the boat are less bumpy than the side ones. It is best to buy tickets at least one day in advance. It costs $30 each way (Nov 2022), plus 2x $1.00 in taxiboats. When departing from Puerto Ayora (Santa Cruz) you will also need to pay $1.50 port fee. You must arrive 30-60 minutes prior to departure as your bags will be subject to an agricultural search. On arrival in Isabela, foreigners must pay a $10 entrance fee ($5 for Ecuadorians). The public speedboat back to Santa Cruz departs some time in the morning and at 3pm. Again, you must arrive 30 minutes prior to departure. The transfer between Isabela and Santa Cruz is 2 hours.

By plane Inter-island flights are available from EMETEBE Airlines, which operates nine seater aircraft to transport passengers and their luggage from San Cristobal Airport to Isabela, Santa Cruz and Baltra islands. Bookings can be done directly through EMETEBE's website or a travel agent. Here is the schedule of flights:

From San Cristobal to Isabela: depart 07:30; arrive 08:00 From San Cristobal to Baltra: 07:30-08:05 From Isabela to San Cristobal: 13:30-14:00 From Isabela to Baltra: 08:30-09:05 From Baltra to San Cristobal: 11:00-11:35 From Baltra to Isabela: 12:30-13:05

Getting around

Most streets lack adequate street signs, but a civic improvement project is changing this, at least in the center of town. New sidewalks with lava pavers are also being added. The roads in the town are still unpaved though. The town is small enough to explore in an hour. Local children are glad to help you find your destination. Standard price for a taxi ride is $1.00 (and $5.00 to get you the airport). A line of taxis is waiting in front of the harbor when speedboats arrive.

See

1 Flamingos. See flamingos at the lagoon in town or, in larger numbers, along the boardwalk to the tortoise breeding center. 2 Giant Tortoise Breeding Center (Follow the 1,200 m long boardwalk which starts west of Puerto Villamil just past the Iguana Crossing Hotel). In this center the giant tortoises from Isabela are bred and raised before being released into the wild. You can see turtle eggs and lots of little baby turtles there, they also have turtles scarred by volcano eruptions but rescued in time. You can also learn about different species of turtles by seeing them. It's open to the public on weekdays, taking a guided tour is mandatory. Guides are waiting in front of the center. If you continue walking past the Breeding Center for another 200 m you will find another lagoon with flamingos. 10$. (updated Nov 2022) 3 Sierra Negra Volcano and Volcan Chico. 6am - 6pm. Sierra Negra is one of the six volcanoes on the island. It has the largest crater in Galápagos and, when the weather is clear, the views at the crater rim are impressive (the wildlife less so). Follow the rain forest trail along the Sierra Negra rim to the sunny and dry moon-like landscape leading to Vulan Chico. The second part of the trail goes through a yellow land iguana habitat, if you are lucky you may spot some. You cannot see any volcanic activity on this tour though, if you want to see some then go to Minas de Azufre. 16 km total (4.5 - 5h walk counting pauses). Rain gear, full water bottle, sunblock, and sturdy footwear recommended. Tours can be arranged in Puerto Villamil. If you want to camp or go without a guide, ask permission at the park office in Puerto Villamil first. $45 (~ $135+ depending on the number of riders if you want a private or group horseback riding tour). (updated Nov 2022) 4 Minas de Azufre. Sulfur mines. Since 2022 tour operators are allowed to drive up close to the site, from there there is a nice view of the fumaroles and a ~ 1.5 km hike down the caldera to the a

Do

1 Concha de Perla (Follow the boardwalk from the docks). It's a natural pool good for snorkelling and playing with sea lions. Diving (Puerto Villamil). On a dive liveaboard cruise, you can visit the following sites: Punta Vicente Roca (abundant coral, mola molas, bullhead shark, sea lions, penguins, flightless cormorants); Roca Redonda (underwater fumeroles, pelagics); Cabo Marshall (mantas, sea lions, Galapagos sharks); Roca Blanca (abundant coral, sea lions, mantas, white tipped reef sharks, lots of tropicals); Isla Tortuga (hammerheads, mantas, eagle rays, sea fans, coral, turtles, lots of tropicals); 4 Hermanos (from Jun-Nov trips are unlikely due to rough seas); La Viuda (advanced dives only due to currents). Diving - there is only one diving center on the island which offers dives for 120-140$. Liveaboard Cruises. On a liveaboard you can visit Tagus Cove, Elisabeth Bay, and Urvina Bay. 2 Las Tintoreras (Take a water taxi at the docks. The price is around $3 per person depending on group size and bargaining skills). A lagoon where white tip sharks come to rest. They can be seen from the trail, but it's not allowed to go snorkelling in the lagoon. The snorkelling at the beach behind is excellent, however, and sting rays and sea turtles can be seen here. Snorkeling - snorkeling around Las tintoreras or Concha de Perla is excellent. You might also ask a local panga owner to take you out to "Los Tuneles", or "The Tunnels", a wonderful area of eroded lava islets filled with sea life.

Buy

Shops in Puerto Villamil sell food, supplies, and souvenirs. A good place to buy fresh fruit and vegetables is around Mercado Municipal.

Eat

The town of Puerto Villamil at the southern end offers lodging and food to visitors wanting to stay on the island. There are several restaurants and bakeries in Puerto Villamil. Most restaurants serve rice, beans and a piece of meat for around 2 dollars.

Encantado de Pepa is a wonderful little cafe serving good food on a clean and charming patio adjacent to the town's main square. They have lunch and dinner menus for $8 each. La Pepa is one of the most entertaining characters in the Galapagos. Cesar's is a restaurant just next to Encantado de Pepa. They also serve both lunch and dinner menus for $8. There is Wi-Fi available there (ask them to turn the router on if it doesn't work).

Drink & nightlife

The nightlife is pretty sedate in Puerto Villamil.

Bar de Beto is a beachfront bar popular with locals and travelers, good to grab a beer and chill out. Pink Iguana is a spaci