Iquitos

Understand

Iquitos is the capital of the vast Department of Loreto, which covers most of the northern Amazon region of Peru. Iquitos has a tropical climate year round. The population is very diverse: there were many periods of big wealth in Iquitos (mainly two with rubber and oil) that brought people from around the world and made it the most important fluvial port in the Peruvian Amazon. The city still has a lot of houses which were built during that age. 'Iquiteños' (or 'Iquitinos') are usually very friendly and like to party. As a city not accessible by road, motorcycles and mototaxis dominate unlike anywhere else. Other results include remarkably fluid (if chaotic) traffic, a preponderance of motorcycle ads and repair shops, and a sub-industry of people who agree to guard your motorcycle while you shop (even placing cardboard on the seat to keep it cooler during the day).

Geography and climate

The elevation above sea level is approximately 106 m (348 ft). The time difference between the longest day and the shortest day is only 18 minutes. The water level of the river fluctuates by as much as 40 ft (12 m) during the year, triggered by rainfall and snow melt on the east slopes of the Andes.

Tourist office iPeru, 161 Napo Street-4th office (the last office) - Plaza de Armas/Main Square, ☏ +51 65 236144, +51 1 5748000 (24/7 line), [email protected]. M-Sa 09:00-18:00; Su 09:00-13:00 (open on holidays). Tourist information and assistance. Services free of charge. (updated Jan 2023) The Peruvian government service that gives official information on the different attractions and assistance in case the service rendered does not comply with the one agreed by you. You may write to iPeru email to plan your travel and ask them for the record of the tourism companies that you consider. iperú service is unbiased and extensive. Jungle tours are available on every street but if you want to go to a reliable operator then use those recommended by the tourist office. The office is not much to give you confidence but once you establish contact you will find the staff helpful and knowledgeable.

Getting there

Iquitos is widely considered the largest continental city unreachable by road. That leaves planes and boats as the primary means of entrance and egress for people and supplies. Do not expect to see a city with all the trappings of the western world. This city is very basic as it has no road connection with the rest of the world. Vehicles are old and most vehicles on the meager roads are motocars or three-wheeler motorbikes which can carry three at a pinch. The people are friendly once you get past the taxi drivers at the airport.

By plane 1 Coronel FAP Francisco Secada Vignetta International Airport (IQT IATA), Av. Abelardo Quiñones Km. 6 de la Ciudad (6.5km southwest of town via Av Grau and Av Jose Abelardo Quiñones). As there are no direct surface transport to Iquitos from Lima or anywhere in Peru, flying is the only way to get here by:. Latam (Lima) Sky Peru (Lima) Star Peru (Lima, Chiclayo, Pucallpa, Tarapoto) Saeta Peru serves as the regional airline with propeller driven aircraft to/from Andoas, Estrecho, and Tarapoto. Upon exiting the airport, there will be several mototaxis and a few cars waiting to win your fare to town. Average rate for a mototaxi into the center of town is S/10 and for a car is S/20. Many mototaxi drivers may try to bring you somewhere other than where you requested to go because they earn commission. Communicate with your lodging before you arrive to get an idea of how long the ride should take or to arrange a private airport pick-up. Some hotels include airport pick-up in the room price.

By boat

Iquitos can be reached by boat from any navigable port on the Amazon River. Boat prices will depend on the distance, speed of the boat, number of passengers, and your bargaining skills.

Coca, Ecuador to Iquitos The trip to Iquitos from Coca (officially Francisco de Orellana) in Ecuador takes over 8 days in one of the three slow cargo boats that ply the route. This expedition goes 1,140 km along the Napo River and the Amazon River. The Napo River is one of the most important tributaries of the mighty Amazon. The source of the Napo comes from small streams flowing from the Cotopaxi and Antisana volcanoes. Normally, there is only 1 cargo ship every 10 days, but they leave on irregular schedules when full of cargo. As of 2017, there is also an option of taking (daily) faster boats from Coca to Nuevo Rocafuerte (US$15, 10 hours) then after stamping out of Ecuador crossing the border to Pantoja (no scheduled service, you need to bargain). There are 2 rapido (fast boats) per week between Pantoja and Mazán, a small village befo

Getting around

The most common way to move around town is by motocar (or mototaxi), a motorcycle with a small, rickshaw-like passenger cabin in the back. Regular taxis are available too, but the heat and availability of the motocars makes it advisable to take a motocar. Sometimes the S/2.5-3 ride is worth the cost just for the breeze. Most places you will want to go within the city cost about S/2.5, but places further away (for example, from Plaza de Armas to Belen) usually costs about S/3 or more (Feb 2018) The drivers often make their money by kickbacks from the hotels they take you to. It's hard to understate how available and prevalent the mototaxis are in the city. Near the city center, it's common for 2 or 3 empty mototaxis to pass you on the street in any given minute. The driver will make eye contact with you, hoping that you are interested in a ride. Not all mototaxis are identical in the quality of their ride; older ones will tend to transfer the vibration of the motorcycle to the passenger cabin, while newer and better maintained ones won't. When taking a mototaxi, it can be comfortable on longer rides to hail a newer-looking one. If you're economically minded, it can be fun to learn about the economics of motocarros. As of May 2010, it is typical for the drivers to rent their taxis for S/10 per hour or S/25-30 per day. Many mototaxistas (those who drive the mototaxi) make excellent city guides. Mototaxistas are extremely friendly and outgoing, in fact, they are too outgoing and even aggressive in their pursuit to gain a passenger. So tourists can enjoy some peace in Iquitos, do not take a ride from a taxi driver who asks you for a ride when you are sitting and eating. When you exit the airport you will be approached very aggressively by the taxi drivers (this is a more acceptable place for taxi driver aggression.) The drive from the airport to the city center is quite a distance, relative to the size of the Iquitos area, and prices are fixed at S/10 (Feb 2018), although it may be possible to negotiate a lower price. Anyone offering a lower price will likely try to take you to a hotel or hostel that pays them; if you already have a hotel in mind, stay firm and they will take you there.

See

The riverfront is just one block from the Plaza de Armas. In the low water season it will retreat and thus not be terribly visible. The waterfront walk also seems to be the place where local high schoolers go to canoodle, so if you stroll it be prepared to see lots of this. There is a somewhat big crafts market right below the walk, called Anaconda Center. The Plaza de Armas is a mix of mostly modern and rubber boom styles. Cities like Iquitos turned into one long party during that age, where no expense was spared, nor eccentricity nor luxury lacking. As part of the legacy of this rubber boom age of abundance, Iquitos still bears traces of the extravagant taste of the rubber barons: mosaic tiles in Italian-style palaces, the bustling riverside walkway or the Iron House, a famous residence designed by Gustave Eiffel that was built from metal sheets. It was carried by hundreds of men through the jungle. There are a few street performers, a fountain, some statues, and one Catholic church. It is quite busy on a Saturday evening. Today, in the city of Iquitos, the modest local homes - not without a certain kitsch charm - exist alongside French mansions, today largely used as public offices. When rubber seeds were smuggled out of the country, the rubber industry moved to Malaysia, signifying the end of the rubber barons. The memory of this past filled with abundance, however, lives on in the eccentric buildings which testify to an exuberant and wild era.

In town

1 Iquitos Cathedral (Iglesia Matriz de Iquitos) (at Arica and Putumayo streets). The main Catholic church in Iquitos. Completed in 1919 in neo-Gothic style . 2 La Plaza 28 de Julio (calle Tacna at Calle San Martín). The biggest square in Peru, there are very good 'Chifa' (Peruvian Chinese) restaurants around the square. (updated Jan 2023)

3 Casa de Fierro (the Iron House), On the corner of Próspero and Putumayo (La Plaza 28 de Julio). It houses crafts shops and a restaurant. It is called the Eiffel building because it is falsely claimed that it was designed by Gustave Eiffel, who also designed a well-known tower in Paris. This house was shipped from Belgium and assembled here in 1890. 4 Ex Hotel Palace (former Hotel Palace), Malecón Tarapacá N ° 216, on the corner of Putumayo (one block from Plaza de Armas). A beautiful Art Nouveau building overlooking the Itaya River. Completed in 1912. The Morey and Cohen houses still stand on the Prospero street, which is the main street. Worth photographing.

Out of town One of the major attractions of Iquitos and the Amazon Rain Forest is the native trib

Do

Jungle trips. Jungle trips are the main reason to visit Iquitos as it serves as a launch point for trips into the Amazon. Single day or multi-day trips can be booked. You are taken out on a boat and can view wildlife such as monkeys, alligators, giant lily-pads, baby caimans (sort of like mini-alligators), anacondas, boas, tarantulas, and more.Your taxi driver or hotel concierge will be more than happy to contact a tour guide for you, as they get a kickback for the referral. However by using this kickback referral system, you will be guaranteed the highest possible price and lowest possible service. Besides, in Iquitos there are no official tour guide associations so never pay attention to street guides or freelancer guides; at the best, they are expensive, and at the worst, corrupt and dangerous. Visit or contact directly a bunch of regular (licensed) tour companies' offices and compare their prices and guides. Usually, their offices are located around the Main Square. A nice-looking travel agency's office it may be a sign of quality. An unsightly office or an aggressive vendor or guide could not be good or, at worst, scammers. Guides and staff could be friendly but they are sellers expecting your money.If you need to know regular companies or guides and their record of complaints, contact iPeru', the government tourist information office. Their nationwide service is free and reliable and they may assist you in case you have problems or need to do procedures anywhere over Peru. The iPerú address is 161 Napo street (right off from the Main Square) and they open including on holidays, or contact them by ☏ +51 65 23-6144 or their 24-hour line ☏ +51 1 574-8000 or they email [email protected]. In Iquitos, they work from Monday to Saturday 09:00-18:00, and Sunday 09:00-13:00. They have an office in the Arrival Lounge of the Iquitos' Airport (phone +51 1 616-7300 extension 1828). (updated Jan 2023)

Ayahuasca. Ayahuasca is a powerful psychedelic brew made from local plants. Shamans have been using Ayahuasca for thousands of years as part of their plant healing methods. Ayahuasca is considered a traditional medicine and is legal in Peru. It has been gaining popularity around the globe and is attracting growing numbers of people to Iquitos, which is considered to be the "Capital of Ayahuasca". Many Ayahuasca users have reported life-changing experiences after taking the medicine.Most providers of jungle trips in Iquitos will offer Ayahuasca ceremonies in their jungle lodges for an additional charge of US$50-100 per person. Local shamans will run thos

Buy

1 Belén market (in Belén distruct). Over 150 native communities from upriver come down to the market of Belén to sell their produce in the market. Belen is the hub of every village within miles, chaotic, flavorful, practical and superstitious, thriving on and above a strip of land that is seasonally flooded. For a series of photo-essays on Belén, check out the Belén Street Market, Pasaje Paquito (if you want to buy exotic drinks this is the place), and Floating in Belén. (updated Jan 2023) Belén is the poorest district of Iquitos, and is home to 60,000 people living along the river without sanitation. Be careful as there are many thieves and pickpockets in this market. Take extreme caution, don't carry valuables in any outwardly accessible pockets, and dress down so you are not an obvious target. Consider striking up conversations with police as you walk through, to make yourself even less attractive. (Though many of the police can be corrupt, they also like helping tourists out.) The area is often patrolled by police, but many are corrupt. Police may even offer to escort you through more dangerous and illegal sections of the market where rare and endangered species are traded. If they don't ask you for a tip or charge a fee for their services, they receive a kickback from the illegal animal vendors. Hiring a guide to take you there from the city centre is a really good idea. A guide will help you navigate through the alleyways, and provide some protection against scammers and pickpockets. But they will also explain to you what is being sold in each alleyway of the market — the tropical fruits and vegetables, the food and drink being sold for immediate consumption, and the jungle medicines, many of which seem to be aimed at improving male sexual performance. It is possible to buy a wide variety of new and used boats at the waterfront. Types and conditions vary widely but include dugouts, canoes, and small fishing boats - suitable for travelling down river. 2 Mercado Artesanal de San Juan (San Juan handicraft market), Km 4.5 Av. Abelardo Quiñones. Daily 08:00-18:00. The place to buy crafts. Many souvenirs in local markets and shops are manufactured from endangered species; buying such items subsidizes the continuing destruction of ecological communities in local habitats. Necklaces made from jaguar and black caiman teeth are often offered for sale, as are bracelets and other ornaments made from spotted cat skins. Other items seen in riverside tourist shops include the heads and feet of harpy eagles, the claws of giant anteaters, and jaguar skulls

Eat

If you are new to Iquitos and the Amazon, you are in for a real treat. The food in Iquitos is excellent. It is an exotic blend of Peruvian, Brazilian, and Colombian food with influences from the Andes and the Pacific Coast. Try the 'juane' and the 'tacacho'. If you want something cold (most likely you will need it because of the heat) there are excellent 'heladerías' (ice cream shops) like Shambo (see below), Giornata at Napa 151, and La Favorita at Plaza Sargento Lores. Do not eat endangered species. Some locals do so as tradition, but many "guides" (pseudo-guides) and restaurants will offer you to taste caiman, majás, turtles, deer and other "carne de monte" (wild meat). Breeding farms for these species do not exist, so these animals come from natural environments.

1 Amazon Bistro, Malecón Tarapaca #268, ☏ +51 65 242918. Daily 06:00-00:00. At one block from the main square, in front of the river, a French old-style brasserie. An excellent alternative to eat or to enjoy a drink thanks to the unique offers in town — real espresso, homemade bread, Argentinean steaks, Belgian beers, escargots, Belgian chocolate dessert. Live music on Friday and Saturday nights. (updated Jan 2023) 2 Dawn on the Amazon, Mal. Maldonado 185, ☏ +51 965 939 190. Daily 07:30-22:00. Easy to find at the end of the boulevard on the corner of Nauta is the place to go to eat and meet. The food is excellent, it is right on the end of the boulevard with a beautiful view and it is the center to find out where to go in Iquitos. All the expats congregate each evening full of suggestions and great conversation. Live music and lively conversation. (updated Jan 2023) 3 Huasaí Restaurant, Jirón Fitzcarrald 131 (half a block northwest of the Plaza de Armas), ☏ +51 65 242222. Su-F 07:45-15:30. One of the best values in Iquitos for lunch. Known for its tropical fruit juices. It is very popular with local business people. Lunch menu S/22. (updated Jan 2023) 4 El Kikiriki, Napo # 159 (one block north of the Plaza de Armas, away from the river), ☏ +51 65 232020. Daily 17:30-22:00. Good for chicken and anticucho. (updated Jan 2023) 5 Shambo Heladería, avenida Grau (close to 28 de Julio Square). Daily 08:00-20:00. For ice cream. There is a second location at the corner of Huallaga St. and Morona St. (updated Jan 2023)

Drink & nightlife

Amazon Bistro and Dawn on the Amazon, listed under "Eat" above, are popular with travellers for drink the evening. Try tropical fruit juices, like Cocona. Pineapple in the Amazon region is quite different to the one found in the rest of Peru, and makes really good juices. Aguaje and ungurahui are also a good choice: you can try everything in the entrance of the Upper Belen central market. You can try also native alcoholic drinks (some of them reputedly aphrodisiac). Pasaje Paquito is the best place to buy them.

Para Para (Up and up) made with honey. Aguajina, sweet beverage made with aguaje pulp. Masato- a traditional fermented beverage made with yuca.

Sleep

Air conditioning is important and very welcome in the brutal heat of the tropical environment. If you are staying in Iquitos and are not enjoying yourself, consider splurging for a room with A/C, as it can make the difference between a good trip and a great one. Given the louder-than-average noise of traffic, ask for a room away from the street.

Budget 1 Las Golondrinas, Jr. Putumayo n° 1024 (near Plaza de Armas), ☏ +51 65-236428. Backpacker's place with a swimming pool, private and shared rooms and full kitchen supplies. Breakfast is not included. Wi-Fi is included. The payment is by cash only on arrival. Dorm bed US$6, single $9, double $12.50. (updated Jan 2023) 2 Marañón Hotel, Jirón Nauta 289 (on the block between the riverfront and Plaza de Armas). Basic hotel. Wobbly Wi-Fi. Clean and air-conditioned. Pool, breakfast included. (updated Jan 2023) 3 Green Track Hostal ([email protected]), Calle Ricardo Palma 516 (between Belén market and Plaza de Armas), ☏ +51 65 600805, +51 986 039061. Backpacker hostel with free Wifi, cable TV, bunk beds, shared bathrooms and kitchen. Guests travelling to Tapiche Jungle Reserve stay here for free. Temporarily closed as of Jan 2023, but intends to reopen.

Mid-range 4 La Casona Hotel, Jirón Fitzcarrald 147 (off the Plaza de Armas), ☏ +51 65 23-4394, [email protected]. A 2-star hotel. It's airy, sometimes clean, secure, spacious. They have hot water, a kitchen, a rest area (courtyard), books, free Wi-Fi Internet and Internet desktop PCs, cable TV, and a helpful and reliable staff for you. It is advisable to book in advance, specially from May to October (Peruvian high tourist season). With fan (with AC): single S/110 (S/125), double S/130 (S/140), triple S/140 (S/175). (updated Jan 2023) 5 Lodging Puerto Requena, Calle Requena #140 (400 m (5 blocks) from the Plaza de Armas of Iquitos), ☏ +51-65-244594. It has a main terrace overlooking the Itaya River. All rooms have a private bathroom, flat-screen TV with cable channels, air conditioning, free Wi-Fi connection, clean rooms, security and 24-hour service. Part of La Casona Hotel chain. With fan (with AC): single S/65 (S/90), double S/75 (S/95), triple S/110 (S/130). (updated Jan 2023) 6 La Casa Fitzcarraldo, Avenida La Marina 2153, ☏ +51-65-601138. Historic hotel where the team of epic movie Fitzcarraldo stayed. Includes the room where Mick Jagger stayed during the filming, and a restaurant. From US$65. (updated Jan 2023) El Dorado, Plaza de Armas. It is a level apart from the rest; but if you can afford it, it is worth the money. Pool area is

Go next

You can travel west to Yurimaguas, Tarapoto (which has some of the widest variety of orchids and butterflies in the world), Chachapoyas (pre-Incan ruins and mummies, the tallest waterfall in Peru and the third in the world, sarcophagi and more), Chiclayo (pre-incan ruins, pyramids and museums) and Trujillo (pre-Incan ruins: the second-largest adobe city in the world; beautiful beaches such as Huanchaco and Chicama, which has the longest surfing left wave in the world). It is a beautiful route through the Amazon jungle, the Andes and the Pacific coast, full of landscapes and activities. The stretch from Iquitos to Chiclayo contains 60% of bird species in Peru (more than 1200 species). (Peru is the second-richest country in birds, with only 20 species fewer than Colombia.) From Chiclayo or Trujillo you can continue to the beautiful beaches of northern Peru (Mancora, Pocitas and others in Piura and Tumbes) or the mangrove swamp in Tumbes and continue north to Ecuador, or travel south to Huaraz (the Cordillera Blanca is here, one of the world’s best places for trekking), Lima (the best food in the Americas, the islands to see sea lions and penguins, museums and pre-Incan ruins as Caral, the oldest civilization in the Americas); then continue south to Ica (the Nazca Lines and Paracas Reserve) and the places in the south of Peru: Arequipa, Ayacucho, Puno (lake Titicaca) and Cusco. Or you can travel south upstream the Amazon to Pucallpa (17 hours, 3 days or 5 days by boat) and then by road to Lima or Cusco (via Tingo María, Huanuco, Huancayo, Ayacucho and Abancay). A third option is to travel east downstream the Amazon to Colombia and Brazil. In this route you may stop in Pevas (has a remarkable art gallery), San Pablo (where "Che" Guevara volunteered) and Caballococha (surrounded by beautiful lagoons plenty of pink and grey river dolphins). A fourth option is to go towards Ecuador: downstream the Amazon to Mazan, then upstream the Napo. At the final stop the bank of the Amazon, you have to walk to cross over to Mazan on the bank of the Napo. A moto will take around 10 minutes and walking around 45 which is quite pleasant, as there are no cars. One traveler in March 2018 reports that boats depart in the mornings on Thursday and Saturday. Check when you are there, so do not do it in a hurry. There may be delays due to seasonal river conditions. In March, this was not an issue and it took four days to arrive in Coca.