Inis Oírr

Understand

The island's name is probably a spelling mistake. The traditional name was Inis Thiar which can mean "west island" but here meant "tail-end island". Maps from the 19th century dubbed it Inis Oirthir, "east island", which morphed into the current Inis Oírr. Like the other Aran Islands, its terrain is fissured limestone pavement: the "clints" or slabs are bare, while the "grikes" or grooves shelter wild flowers. It's a poor prospect for farming and has long attracted those seeking monastic solitude, so it's dotted with early Christian sites. Inis Oírr's population actually rose during the famine years to peak at 532: it dwindled to 257 by 1979 and recovered to 343 in 2022. Tourism is the main industry and Irish is the principal language.

Getting there

By boat From Rossaveel Aran Island Ferries sail at least twice a day year round, with eight a day at the height of summer. The crossing takes 40 min and a day-trip is feasible. A shuttle bus from Eyre Square in Galway connects with all sailings. Never bring a vehicle (even a motorbike) to Inis Oírr, park at Rossaveel anywhere that won't inconvenience residents or harbour users. From Doolin the Doolin Ferry sails 3 or 4 times a day Mar-Oct taking 40 min, foot passengers only. A day-trip is feasible.

Between the islands: the Rossaveel and Doolin ferries are heading for Inis Mór but call at Inis Oírr and Inis Meáin on their way out or back. So you may have to sail via Inis Mór, in which case the journey from the mainland will be 90 min. Inter-island day trips are possible most days in summer but seldom in winter. 1 Inis Oírr ferry pier is on the northeast of the island, along with pretty much everything else.

By plane Aer Árann fly several times a day from Connemara Airport at Inverin, 31 km west of Galway city. There are at least a couple of flights daily year round, more in the August peak season. Flying time is just 10 min and a day trip is always feasible. The aircraft are rinky-dinky BNF Islanders that only take 9 passengers; they rattle around in the breeze and are often cancelled in bad weather. Aer Árann also fly from Connemara to Inis Meain and Inis Mór but all these flights are turnaround trips, there are no inter-island flights. 2 Inis Óirr airfield (INQ IATA) is 1 km east of the harbour and main settlement.

Getting around

Walk. All the visitor facilities and most of the sights are within 1 km of the ferry pier. Five lanes lead from the harbour, heading southwest parallel like bony fingers. They're paved for a km or two then give way to boreen, unpaved lanes of grass and rock. There are few cross-links so to move between them (eg to follow the south coast) you have to launch out onto the natural limestone pavement. Tours by pony and trap, or by "Wanderly Wagon" (a tractor-drawn trailer), start from the pier. Rothaí Inis Oírr, Inis Oírr H91 X7X6 (next to pier), ☏ +353 99 75049. Daily 8:30AM-6PM. They hire off-road bikes in various sizes, including children's bikes, trailers, tag-alongs and baby seats. Plus maps and helmets. (updated May 2025)

See

1 Cnoc Raithní is a tumulus, a burial mound. Its lowest layers date to 1500 BC, the earliest known settlement on Aran, while the upper layers are from the early Christian era of 600-900 AD. It was lost under sand until exposed by a storm in 1885.

2 O'Brien's Castle (Caislean Ui Bhriain or "Furmina Castle") is a tower house, built and held by the O'Briens in the 15th century, captured by the O'Flahertys circa 1582, then demolished by Cromwell in 1652. The site is usually free to enter though sometimes the gate is locked. You might notice the outline of the much earlier ringfort Dún Formna. The castle is on the highest point of the island so it commands great views. An Tur Faire (The Watch Tower) 100 m south of the castle was a Signal Station, built 1806-08 to warn against Napoleonic attack. There's a chain of them around the coast, such as on Inis Mor; they exchanged signals by flags. Teampall Caomhán (Church of St Cavan) is 10th century, with an entrance below ground as it became buried in sand; the ruin has been given a modern roof to prevent it filling up again. The saint's name is sometimes anglicised as Kevin, but St Kevin was a much earlier fellow who founded Glendalough. St Cavan died circa 865 and is buried here. A mass is held on his pattern (ie patron-saint) day, which in the 19th century was shifted from 3 Nov to 15 June. The church is next to the airfield and is always accessible. 3 Cill Ghobnait (Church of St Gobnait) is the ruin of an 11th- or 12th-century church. It stands over the site of her 6th-century cell, but the beehive cell now seen here is probably the same age as the church. The legend goes that Gobnait fled here from a family feud, but an angel told her to return to the mainland and go south till she saw nine white deer. The requisite number, coating and species jackpot came up in Ballyvourney, County Cork, where she founded a convent. St Fiachra's Holy Well is close to St Gobnait's Church.

4 Seals surround the island but they like to haul

Do

Walk: pretty much as you please along the lanes. Waymarked routes include an 8 km loop east as far as the lough and Plassy wreck, and a 13 km loop which also takes in St Enda's Well. Beaches: the two best are An Trá, which helpfully means "the beach", in the bay east of the harbour, and Trá Poll na gCaorach ("Horseshoe Beach") south of the Plassy wreck. Ted Fest is held in March on Inis Mór by admirers of the Father Ted TV sitcom. The organisers acknowledge the anomaly that the other islands don't participate, even though the opening sequence depicts the Plassy wreck on Inis Oírr which is as craggy an island as you could wish for. They therefore hope to broaden the event. Wild Atlantic Run is a road race of 5 km or 10 km held in April. This small island doesn't stretch to a marathon. Craiceann Bodhran Festival is held at the end of June. Craiceann means drumskin, and it's a masterclass and series of gigs around these traditional Irish drums. Currach Racing is in August. A currach is a rowing boat with animal hide (nowadays canvas) stretched over a wooden frame and coated in pitch. Sturdier fishing currachs in Galway had planking and sometimes had a sail, and nowadays an outboard motor, but the racing boats are the lightweight canvas type. There's no rudder so the rowers must steer. The races are accompanied by various onshore sports and ballyhoo.

Buy

Siopa XL (next to Óstán Inis Óirr hotel), ☏ +353 99 75115. M-Sa 9:30AM-5:30PM, Su 9:30AM-1:30PM. Small supermarket with the island's only ATM. (updated May 2025) Cleas (south end of village beyond St Gobnait's), ☏ +353 99 75979. M-Sa 9AM-5:30PM. Craft shop and local art centre. They organise guided walks and various cultural activities. (updated May 2025)

Eat

Chipper Na Céibhe is by the pier, open M-Sa noon-9PM. Teach an Tae (Tea House), Inis Oírr H91 V326 (next to Ruari's), ☏ +353 99 75092. May-Oct. Lunches and light bites from fresh local produce. (updated May 2025) Cafe: An Currach by the beach do