Huế

Understand

Hue is intimately connected to the imperial Nguyễn Dynasty, based in Hue, which ruled from 1802 to 1945, when the Emperor Bao Dai abdicated in favour of Ho Chi Minh's revolutionary government. The city went through tough times during what is known locally as the American War, when it was conquered by the Viet Cong and held for 24 days. During that time, they executed around 1,000 people suspected of sympathizing with the South. After a ferocious assault, US and South Vietnamese forces retook the city, but ultimately lost the war, returning the city to the Northern forces.

Orientation Hue is easy to get a grip on. The main landmark is the Perfume River (Hương Giang), with the old city and the citadel on the north side and the newer city, including most hotels and restaurants, on the south side. Much of the riverside has wisely been done up as a pleasant promenade and park dotted with bizarre sculptures. The famous tombs are further south in Hue's outskirts.

Climate

Hue's weather is infamously bad: the Truong Son Mountains just to the south seem to bottle up all the moisture, so it's usually misty, drizzly, or outright rainy. Things get even wetter than usual in the winter rainy season, especially from February to the end of March. To be safe, bring an umbrella any time of year. Don't forget to bring a sweater and jacket in winter as it can get rather chilly, with temperatures falling to as low as 8°C at night. Alternatively, when the sun makes an appearance for a day or a week, it can reach 30°C. It's usually quite dry during the summer months, when the temperature can reach the high 30s. Summer rains can be heavy but brief, and often arrive unexpectedly, whereas February rains can last for weeks. The best description for the weather in Hue would be "changeable".

Getting there

By plane 1 Phu Bai International Airport (HUI IATA). Has daily flights to and from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, but flights are quite often disrupted by poor weather during the rainy season (mid-Oct to mid-Dec). The majority of flights are Vietnam Airlines, but Jetstar Vietnam also has a flight or two from Ho Chi Minh City and once a day to Hanoi. The airport is 15 km from the city centre and should cost no more than 180,000 dong by taxi (30-min ride). There is also a bus that will take you into the city and even drop you at your hotel for 50,000 dong. Tickets are bought from the stand just after exiting the baggage claim. Large suitcases are accepted, the minibus seems to leave when full. It drops you to larger hotels but the default option is Hanoi street. Da Nang's airport, only two hours away by car now that the Hai Van Tunnel is open, is busier and has more connections. A one-way taxi from Da Nang airport to Hue can be negotiated down to US$45 (large car) or US$40 (small car). Using the meter, the cost for a large car is about 1,200,000 dong.

By train

2 Hue Train Station, 2 Bùi Thị Xuân (2 km or about a 40-min walk from most backpacker hotels in Pham Ngu Lao), ☏ +84 54 3822 175. (updated Apr 2016) There are several trains a day to and from Hanoi (14 hours), Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang (4 hours), et al. The journey down south through Lang Co and the Hai Van Pass is particularly scenic, and from Da Nang you can take a taxi or motorbike to Hoi An. A second-class sleeper ticket from Ho Chi Minh City on the much superior express SE2-SE6 train to Hue costs 588,000-740,000 dong depending on the level you're on (1, 2 or 3). SE 2 departs at 19:00. The beds are quite hard, as there is not much of a mattress which is placed over a plastic bench/seat. You can get other trains, but the little extra you pay is worth it several times over. It offers a wonderful travel experience. Passengers sit, lie and sleep in a very small cabin for 23 hours with five other people (nearly always Vietnamese), eat four plain but tasty and filling Vietnamese meals, listen to a fine selection of Vietnamese pop songs on the PA, and see some incomparably beautiful countryside, particularly in the last section between Da Nang and Hue. It's an excellent way to see the country and meet ordinary Vietnamese, who are unfailingly friendly and helpful, even to those who have not learned a word of their language. The trip is especially recommended if you like screaming babies. Buy your tickets at the train station. Hotels often over charge by doubling the prices (at least US$80 for a sof

Getting around

By taxi Like other Vietnamese cities, Hue is flooded with cyclos and motorbikes, as well as a few meter taxis. Taxi drivers are usually honest, but make sure they turn the meter on. Trips start at 15,000 dong for the first 2 km and tick upward at 11,500 dong/km. Some meters run incorrectly (showing up to 10 times the distance actually traveled), so ensure you have a rough idea of the distance to your destination. If the meter is running too quickly, at the destination pay an estimate of the fair price and insist on calling the police if the driver will not accept the estimated non-meter price. The driver will back down. A metered trip out see two tombs, with waiting time, should be around 300,000 dong (US$18). With cyclos and motorbikes, all of the usual disclaimers apply: negotiate a price ahead of time and don't be afraid to walk away if they're asking too much. No trip in Hue should cost more than 20,000 dong. Many of the motorbike drivers double as pot dealers, and you may be offered to buy marijuana along with your ride.

By motorbike

Hire a motorbike and join the locals as they careen across the bridges and along the main roads at a leisurely pace. They're available for around US$5/day from hotels and shops. For a motorbike with driver, small hotels have connections to freelancers. You may be lucky to have an English speaking guide for all 6 tombs (the 7th tomb is inaccessible) including those locked and forgotten for lack of tourist interest, plus three temples, and the emperor's arena for one day and still have time in the early afternoon for a beer and some Vietnamese do-it-yourself spring rolls and the famous Hue pancakes for just US$10. The DIY spring rolls and pancakes are not free, but they worth it for only 45,000 dong.

By bicycle Cycling is also a good option, with plenty of bikes available from 25,000-30,000 dong/day.

By cyclo A cyclo is the local version of the trishaw, with the passenger seated in front of the cyclist. Always agree on a price before setting off, and make sure it covers the return journey rather than just one way. If you want to change your itinerary mid-journey, discuss the price adjustment with your driver immediately rather than leaving it until the end. When agreeing on a fare, be explicit about the currency — confirm you are paying in dong (e.g. 100,000 dong) rather than US dollars, as misunderstandings over this can lead to a much larger bill than expected on arrival.

On foot Hue is quite compact, so you can reach most of the hotels, restaurants and the citadel easily on foot. Mr. Cu at Mandarin Cafe

See

The historical monuments of the city have been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

1 Ho Chi Minh Museum, 6 Lê Lợi, ☏ +84 54 3520-445. M-Sa. Contains photos and information on Ho Chi Minh, and the history of Hue in photographs. Free. 2 Phu Bai Airport. A must-see if you are interested in the earlier conflicts, back when the airport was a dirt strip. During the Vietnam War, an American garrison was assigned there and built up the airport with concrete bunkers, a paved airstrip and a few other luxuries. The airport was vital in keeping Hue supplied during the Easter Offensive of 1972 when "Charlie jumped the line". The airport retains the original buildings built by the Americans; however, they have been retrofitted for use by the Vietnamese. 3 Thien Mu Pagoda. Perched on a bluff over the river and housing some very fine gold and silver Buddha images. The Thien Mu Pagoda overlooks the Perfume River and is the official symbol of the city of Hue. Thien Mu means "elderly celestial woman", and refers to an old legend about the founding of the pagoda. Brimming with opportunities for great photos. And don't forget the historical Austin (car) of Thích Quảng Đức! Free.

Imperial Citadel

4 Imperial City of Hue (Đại Nội). Daily, 06:30-17:00. The former imperial seat of government and Hue's prime attraction, this is a great sprawling complex of temples, pavilions, moats, walls, gates, shops, museums and galleries, featuring art and costumes from various periods of Vietnamese history. Thanks to its size, it is also delightfully peaceful, a rare commodity in Vietnam. The citadel was badly knocked about during fighting between the French and the Viet Minh in 1947, and again in 1968 during the Tet Offensive, when it was shelled by the Viet Cong and then bombed by the Americans. As a result, some areas are now only empty fields, bits of walls and an explanatory plaque. Other buildings are intact and a few are in sparkling condition. For the rest, while restoration has been going on for 20 years, there is still quite a long way to go. Allow several hours to see it properly. Inside you can pay US$1.50 (30,000 dong) to dress up in the king or queen's clothing and sit on the throne for a fun photo opportunity. Adults 200,000 dong, children 40,000 dong. (updated Jan 2025) 5 Huế Museum of Royal Fine Arts (Museum of Royal Antiquities). (updated Jan 2020)

Ngọ Môn – The main southern entrance to the city, built in 1833 by Minh Mang. The central door and the bridge connecting to it were reserved exclusively for the emperor. Climb up to the second floor for a nice v

Do

Blind Massage, Kiet/Alley 180 Phan Boi Chau (off Phan Boi Chau St on the right up the hill about 1 km past the train tracks (look for a small blue sign in English)). At the institute for the blind. All of the staff work and live in this facility and speak a little English. Popular with the locals. 40,000 dong/hr for massage and 30,000 dong/hr for steam-bath. My An Hot Spring and Spa (7 km from Hue on the way to Thuan An Beach). The water here has a high sulphur content, purported to have health benefits. US$3 for foreigners to use the swimming pool and 2 hot spring pools. Thanh Tan Hot Springs (about 13 km from Hue centre). Similar to My An, but without the odour of sulphur. This site is surrounded by woods, which are pleasant to explore. Has graduated sections. Start with the cool section and work your way up. The hottest section is closed off, as it is too hot to bathe in. There are also private pools for 2 or 4 people and a swimming pool. There is a tiny restaurant on site. This is also where the local bottled Thanh Tan mineral water comes from.

Buy

Embroidery is a traditional craft of Hue and framed embroidery can be purchased in many shops in the backpacker area of Hue.

Healing the Wounded Heart Shop, 23 Vo Thi Sau St, ☏ +84 5 4383 3694. 08:00-22:00. A humanitarian project of the Spiral Foundation. This shop sells eco-friendly handicrafts made by disabled artisans in Hue. Many of the products are made from recycled items, including recycled drinks cans and recycled telephone wire baskets. All profits fund heart surgeries for poor children in the Hue area. Hope Center, 20 Nhat Le St, ☏ +84 5 4351 1511. 08:00-22:00. The Hope Center offers disabled and disadvantaged people a place to learn and work. Garment manufacturing is the mainstay. However, a range of handicrafts are also made. In particular the beautiful handwoven cloth by A Luoi women is unique in its design and manufacture. Scarves, hand bags, purses and hand crafted jewellery are for sale. Well-worth a visit. (updated Mar 2018)

Eat

Hue is famed for its imperial cuisine, which was prepared for the emperor and his retinue. Although the emphasis is more on presentation than taste, an imperial banquet is well-worth trying. The most famous local dish is bún bò Huế (just called bún bò within the city), a noodle soup served with slices of beef and lashings of chili oil. Another tasty local treat is sesame candy (mè xửng), which is peanutty, chewy and quite tasty if fresh.

Nem lui is a dish of sweet, minced pork around bamboo sticks grilled over hot coals. Banh khoai is a "pancake" filled with bean sprouts, shrimp and pork. Bun thit nuong is barbecued pork served with vegetables and noodles. The people of Hue have a strong tradition of eating vegetarian food, so vegetarian restaurants are more common in Hue than in the rest of Vietnam. On the 1st and 15th of every lunar month, vegetarian restaurants are packed full of patrons for dinner and it may prove difficult to find a seat. Vegetarian restaurants are the cheapest places to eat, after street vendors.

Street food 1 Banh Bao (corner of Ben Nghe and Nguyen Tri Phuong). A street vendor who sells wonderful Banh Bao. (updated Sep 2010)

Budget

City center 2 Quán Chay Thanh Liễu, 50 Nguyễn Công Trứ. 09:00-20:00. Totally vegan. You eat with the locals. Great food. The hot pot is fantastic and can be had for 50,000 dong (June 2017). The portions are huge. Great atmosphere. The staff is lovely. (updated Jan 2023) 3 Cafe on Thu Wheels, 3 Kiệt 34 Nguyễn Tri Phương. Traveler restaurant, with many simple, delicious dishes. There is even white and red wine. Very pleasant family business. The landlady runs the restaurant by heart. (updated Jan 2023) 4 Family Home Restaurant, 11 Kiệt 34 Nguyễn Tri Phương. It is small and looks like grandma's living room. It's cute. The Hue dishes are just tasty, spicy and great. It is not Westernized food. The staff is very friendly and helpful. (updated Jan 2023) 5 Nina's Cafe Restaurant, 16 34 Nguyễn Tri Phương. Restaurant tucked away in a back alley that apparently caters to foreigners. English menus and the friendly staff speaks English. A nice little simple restaurant. Good music and atmosphere. (updated Jan 2023) 6 Lien Hoa, Số 03 Lê Quý Đôn (on the grounds of the Lien Hoa pagoda, across from the football stadium). Monks and nuns frequent this vegetarian restaurant during lunch. (updated Jan 2023) 7 Cơm Chay Diệu Lạc (Vegetarian Rice), 01 Hàn Mặc Tử, Vỹ Dạ (near the river on the newer side). Simple and good vegetarian meals. (updated Jan 2023)

Around the Imperial city 8 Banh Khoai Hong Mai, 110 Dinh T

Drink & nightlife

Bars B4 Bar-Café, 75 D Ben Nghe. A charming Belgian-Vietnamese owned bar, with a welcoming interior and free pool. 1 Brown Eyes Chillout Bar-Club, 56 Chu Van An, ☏ +84 5 482 7494. Happy hour, 17:00-22:00. Live DJ, free pool table and a good vibe. Not far from Pham Ngu Lao, but they offer to pay for taxis from hotels for parties of four persons or more. Stays open till the last one passes out. No cover.. Café on Thu Wheels, 1/2 D Nguyen Tri Phuong. It's a little bar owned by the charming lady Thu. DMZ Bar & Café, 44 D Le Loi. Stays open late. Sinh To Place, 30 Ben Nghe. Shop for drinking ice tea, coffee, smoothies and juices. Local prices (they are published on a board). Try rau má juice: reputed to be very good for your health. Rau má (centella asiatica juice) 6,000 dong, smoothies (sinh to) 8,000 dong. Vy Da Xua, 131 Nguyen Sinh Cung St (east on Le Loi, about 2 km past the causeway). Enjoy a delicious cup of Vietnamese coffee, or any beverage, in this beautiful setting. The traditional beam house is surrounded by a garden and small stream where you can hear birds and restful music. 2 Why Not?, 21 Vo Thi Sau, ☏ +84 5 482 4793. 3 Garden river Bar coffee, 1/7 nguyen cong tru Hue, ☏ +84 54 6555 999, [email protected]. 7am-10h30 pm. Bar coffee in the center of hue You can enjoy your drink and listen music near to the river inside the amazing garden. A Vietnamese and French team will be here to helping you. (updated Apr 2016)

Coffee There are lots of small cafés (quán cafe) in Hue. Going out for coffee is a favourite local pastime. Most Hue people wouldn't think of starting the morning without meeting friends over a glassful. Most coffee shops open for business in the morning, close down from about 10:30 or so until late afternoon, then open again for the after-work and evening crowds. Do try the local style, iced, either with condensed milk, or black, which means with sugar. In the south, the iced coffee comes in a tall glass with lots of ice and lots of syrupy milk. In the central area, the glass is much smaller and the coffee is usually stronger. If you don't look Vietnamese, you may be served a weaker coffee, or if you order cafe nong (hot), they will also give you an extra glass of hot water to pour in. Do try your coffee first, to taste it the way the locals like it. Something like an iced, sweet espresso, with chocolatey overtones. Generally 6,000-8,000 dong for Vietnamese people; 10,000 dong+ for foreigners

4 La Beaute, 87 Vo Thi Sau (near Nguyen Cong Tru). 12:00-22:00. Lovely cafe on a quiet side street and therefore still un

Sleep

There are plenty of cheap hotels and mid-market hotels in Hue, as well as a couple of expensive giants. The largest cluster is around the short lane, Pham Ngu Lao (including Le Loi, Hung Vuong, Chu Van An, Nguyen Cong Tru). It's not quite as big (or backpackery) as its Ho Chi Minh City namesake, but still a definite tourist magnet. Just by walking around in the side streets of Pham Ngu Lao, you'll quickly find some guesthouses for US$5–7, depending on your bargaining skills. There are plenty of them around, too many to mention separately. Most of them are well renovated and offer the usual comforts of budget hotels like a small TV, a fridge and a proper bathroom. Wi-Fi is widely available, as in most parts of Vietnam. In Pham Ngu Lao itself you only get a dorm bed for the same price, so walking 100 m around the corner is probably well worth the effort. Also note, that the prices offered online are sometimes a fair bit higher than if you just show up there in person.

Budget Amigo Hotel, 66/3 Le Loi St, ☏ +84 5 4383 8006, fax: +84 5 4383 8005, [email protected]. Tucked away in the heart of the guesthouse/cheaper district. Friendly staff, good rooms and rates are negotiable. Free Wi-Fi and PCs available for guest use. Air-con. Satellite TV. Laundry service at 20,000 dong per kilo. Restaurant downstairs serves good food and very reasonably priced. US$13-25. Hue Amazing Homestay, 21/1 Pham Ngu Lao St., ☏ +84 912630219, [email protected]. 24 hr. Nice and helpful staff, free wifi, free breakfast, 24 hr front desk. Dorm US$5. Bamboo Hotel, 61 Hung Vuong, ☏ +84 5 4382 8345. Good hotel. The staff are friendly, the rooms are clean and neat. Free Internet. From US$10. Binh Duong I Hotel, 17/34 Nguyen Tri Phuong Alley, ☏ +84 5 4382 9990. Air-con, hot water & satellite TV included. Popular with Japanese tourists. Friendly and helpful staff. Some rooms have bathtubs and/or private balcony. From US$10. Dorms are US$4 (84,000 dong). Canary Hotel, 37 Nguyen Cong Tru, ☏ +84 54 3839699. All rooms are air conditioned, all equipped with 32-inch LCD cable TV, shower with bath and minibar. Bar and restaurant, Internet room, boutique and souvenir shop and laundry service. US$16. Halo, 10A/66 D Le Loi (Up an alley off the main road, where there is an array of other guest houses. There's a small sign at the alley's entrance). Spotless rooms, spacious, with large bathrooms and TV. There is a balcony to sit on at night, and it's close to all the nightlife in Hue. Doubles 160,000 dong. Vietnam Backpacker Hostels - Hue Hostel & Sports Bar, 40 Chu Van An St,

Go next

Hoi An – old merchant port 100 km away (about 4 hours by road or train. Through train, stops at Da Nang, you will need to take local bus from there), with Da Nang, the Marble Mountains and China Beach as potential stops along the way. Dong Hoi – A sleepy beach and seaside town with all the necessary infrastructure; laid back, authentic and genuinely friendly, with at least half a dozen hostels, convenient for accessing Phong Nha Ke Bang national park. About 3 hr north of Hue. Bus from Hue: local 150,000 dong, Sinh Cafe 400,000 dong, and tourist buses 300,000 dong. Nam Dong district – great place for visiting Co Tu villages on the fringe of Bach Ma National Park. Hanoi – 12-hour overnight train ride. Beware booking buses with Moon Travel (Nguyen Tri Phuong), with promises of a bus dropping you off at your hotel in the destination city. They change buses, and then ultimately you end up at the bus station with no recourse. There are also frequent bus services to Savannakhet and Vientiane in Laos. Buses leave at 06:00 and 18:00. There are 3 scheduled direct buses to Vientiane: 06:00, 09:30 and 18:00. The trip to Savannakhet takes about 12 hours and cost around US$12, to Vientiane about 14–18 hours depending how many stops bus makes and US$20-30. The vehicle can be anything from a minibus or air-con bus to a local 30 years old bus. Usually buses are packed with traders and their cargo so that finding enough space is a problem. You'll probably have to change buses 3-4 times during the trip and toilets, aside from squatting in the jungle, are seldom available. Tickets can be bought in any booking office in the centre of Hue. VIP Bus to Savannakhet run by the Lao State Company leaves at 08:30 from the Southern Bus Station 5 times per week, every day except Sunday and Friday, and costs 220,000 dong. From Savannakhet to Hue, departure is at 10:00 at Savannakhet Bus Station, M-F, 100,000 kip.