Hoa Lư

Understand

A few kilometers west of the city, water has eroded a small mountain range of limestone into a karst, a geological region of steep peaks and extensive caves. What distinguishes Ninh Binh from other karsts in North Vietnam is how the valleys between the peaks are largely flooded, creating a system of waterways throughout the formation. Centered on this spectacular limestone karst landscape is the Trang An Scenic Landscape Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site inscribed as a mixed natural and cultural property. The archeological remains found in caves trace human presence to 30,000 years ago. The heritage site includes the more recent Hoa Lư, the ancient capital of Vietnam. In the late 10th century, Hoa Lư was the economic, political and cultural center of Đại Cồ Việt, an independent Vietnamese polity founded in 968 A.D. The narrow caves and waterways were an ideal foundation for a highly-defensible citadel. The city was never directly attacked.

In 2025, Ninh Bình city and Hoa Lư district merged to form Hoa Lư city. This administrative re-designation is not readily apparent to travelers, as the city is still widely referred to as Ninh Binh. Besides, there isn't much to do in the city itself, apart from drinking beer with the locals. Most international travelers stay in the guesthouses and resorts built near the edge of the mountains, at Tam Coc (9 km southwest of the city along Hwy 1) and Trang An (west of the city along Trang An/Hang Mua Rd).

Getting there

By plane Noi Bai (Hanoi) International Airport is the nearest major airport, about a 2-hour drive away. Taxis from Noi Bai cost USD70.

By taxi Taxis from Hanoi cost USD48.

By bus There are regular buses from Hanoi's southern bus terminal (Giap Bat) that leave every 15 min (or whenever full) 70,000 dong (June 2016). Journey time is 1½-2½ hr depending on traffic. Buy a ticket in the ticket hall or you will likely have to pay more than 70,000 dong. Open tour buses will drop passengers off upon request but Ninh Binh is not a regular stop. Most open tour buses from Hanoi will arrive at 21:30. Tour buses from Hue arrive between 04:00 and 06:00, depending on the company. Specify whether the bus drops off in central Ninh Binh or in Tam Coc. There are now luxury seats limousine style mini buses that can pick you up from your hotel and drop you off at your hotel in the Ninh Binh area, costing about 400k dong per person. You may have to change into another perhaps smaller vehicle to reach your final destination. Seating is spacious, but luggage space in the back can be limited.

By train 1 Ninh Binh railway station connects to northbound and southbound trains. Daytime southbound trains to Dong Hoi and Hue (23:00 arrival) depart at 11:21 and can be enjoyed in 2nd class seats rather than sleepers for those looking to avoid overnight journeys and long-haul buses.

Getting around

By car Guesthouses may provide organised tours by car for USD20 per day. Taxis are also common and not different from the ones in Hanoi or Saigon, although a little cheaper.

By motorbike

A motorbike is the best way to view Ninh Binh and the surrounding area. A motorbike can be rented for about 100,000 dong per day, a motorcycle driver/guide to take you around the sites for about USD10-20 a day. The roads in general are quite well maintained and not overly busy, but the junctions, just like everywhere else in Vietnam, can be dangerous. Renting your own motorbike is possible but not without risk.

By bicycle Cycling is an excellent and popular option, as the lowlands are flat and vehicle traffic is manageable. Many guesthouses around the scenic Trang An karst/riverside area and the more rural areas near to Tam Coc provide free bicycles to get around on, mostly with no gears and a front basket with their guesthouse name on a plaque fixed to the front of the basket, some have rear kids seats. It seems unlikely anyone would steal them but someone might ride off on the wrong bike! Other places may hire out bicycles, or if you are looking for a multi-geared mountain bike or an ebike. When booking your accommodation, perhaps ask them if they provide free bikes to guests, as it's a big perk in this area. Good routes include the country roads north and west of Tam Coc, and the Trang An/Hang Mua Road connecting Tam Coc to Trang An and Hoa Lu.

On foot The town of Ninh Binh is quite small and walkable. However, most of the interesting sights are outside the city and spread out over several kilometers.

See

Tam Coc area The area around Tam Coc is beautiful, and is best explored slowly by bicycle, motorbike or on foot. Beyond the main boat routes, visitors can discover quiet countryside paths, small villages and limestone valleys. Hiking trails around Tam Coc lead to scenic viewpoints, hidden caves and rural farming areas where travelers may observe traditional agriculture and daily life in the countryside.

1 Bich Dong Pagoda (Chùa Bích Động) (2 km west of Tam Coc). Three temples carved into a limestone mountain, dating from the 15th-century reign of Le Thai To. The lower temple has a stone next to it that resonates when tapped, plus a Buddha footprint. The middle temple has an 18th-century bell, a cave and resonating pillars. The top temple has a view of the surrounding countryside, which is good for sunsets. Free. Parking 20,000 dong, or free on the square in front of the entrance bridge if you buy a drink for 25,000 dong, or leave the bike farther away from the entrance. The lady charging the fee may try to overcharge by implying that it also includes the entrance to the temples, but this is a lie. 2 Hidden Valley (Secret Cave) (Dộng Thiên Cung) (past the entrance of Bich Dong Pagoda and the lotus lake, on the right side). Only very few tourists wander into this secluded valley. There is a shop selling some drinks and ice cream, but which might be closed. There is a boat advertising a tour into a 350m deep cave, a wide peaceful field with some goats and then there is the 15min walking tour through a cave. The guide babbles about in Vietnamese only, shows various fossil shells and funny shaped wall markings, stalagmites and stalactites and even turns your head into the right direction to look using his hands. Cave tour 30,000 dong, boat tour 50,000 dong. (updated Dec 2024) 3 Mua Cave (Hang Múa), Khe Dau Ha, Hoa Lu (5 km from Ninh Binh). The cave here is an afterthought; the main draws are the two hilltop viewpoints. 500 steps will lead you to the first peak, an un

Do

Boat tours

The best way to see the karst landscape, lined with slow-moving rivers and punctured by networks of water caves, is from a boat tour. The geology is similar to the more famous Ha Long Bay, but is more accessible and much less touristy. The best times to go are the morning and late afternoon, when there's fewer tour buses from Hanoi and it's cooler and shadier. Try not to board a boat that is loaded with boxes at departure. The boxes are filled with handicrafts, and during the return trip the rowers might