Ho Chi Minh City

Understand

Following the fall of Saigon in 1975, Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City. However the old name Saigon is still widely used by both Vietnamese and foreigners, especially when referring to the most central part of the city to which most tourists flock. Although the capital of a united Vietnam is Hanoi in the north, Ho Chi Minh City remains Vietnam's main economic and financial centre. While it does not have the long history that cities like Hanoi and Hue have, it is Vietnam's most modern and cosmopolitan city, with influences from the French former colonial rulers and the ethnic Chinese community in Cholon deeply embedded in the local culture, perhaps most visible in its cuisine. Though Vietnam has been united since the conclusion of the Vietnam War, cultural differences arising from the division of Vietnam can be seen to this day. To this day, locals in Ho Chi Minh City tend to be more business-minded and less ideological than those in Hanoi in the north. In addition, Southerners also tend to be more hospitable towards Western visitors than Northerners. The Vietnam War — called the "American War" in Vietnam — remains a sensitive topic, and it is advisable not to bring it up in discussions with locals. Do not assume that all Vietnamese think alike, as many Southerners are still bitter about having lost to the North.

History The first evidence of a settlement in the area dates back to the Funan Empire (1st - 6th century AD). Following the fall of the Funan Empire, the area eventually came under the control of Champa, during which it was named Baigaur. With the rise of the Khmer Empire, the Chams were eventually forced out, and the settlement was incorporated into the Khmer Empire and renamed Prey Nokor. It grew to have an ethnic Khmer majority, which remained even after the fall of the Khmer Empire, and it was not until the 17th century that ethnic Vietnamese started settling in the area. In 1698, by which time it already had an ethnic Vietnamese majority, the Nguyễn lords sent Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh to the area to establish Vietnamese administrative structures, thus incorporating it into the Vietnam's Lê dynasty. In time, the city of Prey Nokor came to be known by the names Gia Định and Sài Gòn. The former was the name used for the city until French rule commenced, with the city officially called Saïgon in French. Saigon was ceded to the French under the Treaty of Saigon in 1862, and became the capital of the French colony of Cochinchina, which covered most of what is today southern Vietnam. As a result, the city has a rich French colonial heritage, with many

Getting there

By plane 1 Tan Son Nhat International Airport (SGN IATA, Tân Sơn Nhất) (8 km from the city center). Vietnam's largest airport with numerous international flights from major cities in East Asia and Southeast Asia, with some intercontinental services to Australia, Europe and the United States, and around 19 domestic connections. You can get to the city center by taxi, but the buses are much cheaper. There are several routes, and all the buses are air-conditioned. Bus 152 is a city bus. It costs 5,000 VND (luggage is an extra 5,000 VND) and departs every 15 minutes. Bus 109 is an express bus. It costs 20,000 VND (luggage is an extra 20,000 VND) and departs every 45 minutes. If you're going from the airport to the city center, you can buy tickets at the terminal. If you're going from the city center to the airport, you can buy tickets from the conductor.

By train

2 Saigon railway station (Ga Sài Gòn), 1 Nguyen Thong St (On Cach Mang Thang Tam (CMT8) northwest of the city centre, a short taxi or public bus ride away from the main hotel districts, or less than 3 km on foot.). Tickets can be bought from the official Vietnamese Railways website. There is also a ticket office at the train station with limited English proficiency. Furthermore, it is possible to purchase from the official train ticket office at 275C Pham Ngu Lao, Pham Ngu Lao Ward, District 1. In both latter cases beware of scams. (updated May 2019) There are five daily departures from (and to) Hanoi along the "Reunification line". Although several of the trains are called "express", all journeys take 30–35 hr. The fastest train is SE3 departing from Hanoi at 23:00 and arriving at 05:00 two days later.

By bus If you take a bus into Ho Chi Minh City, you will end up at one of the following bus stations:

3 Mien Dong Coach Station (Bến xe Miền Đông), 292 Đinh Bộ Lĩnh, Bình Thạnh (To get here from Ben Thanh, you can take Bus 93, 19 and 45.). Mostly buses heading north arrive and leave from here, but also Vung Tau is served through this bus station. Note that Miền Đông just means east and there is another bus station called Mien Dong Moi further out near the National University, often also called Suoi Tien Bus Station. (updated May 2025) 4 Mien Tay Bus Station (Bến Xe Miền Tây), 395 Kinh Dương Vương, Phường An Lạc (To get here from Ben Thanh you can take Bus 39, 139.), ☏ +84 2838776594. Mien Tay Bus Station serves the Mekong Delta region with many intercity bus routes. (updated May 2025) 5 Cholon Bus Station (Bến xe Chợ Lớn), 46 Lê Quang Sung, Quận 6 (To get here from Ben Thanh, take Bus 1 or

Getting around

Getting around HCMC can be a challenge: traffic slows to a crawl for most of the day, the heat and chaotic streets make walking long distances impractical, and the public transport system has not kept up with the city's explosive growth.

By train Ho Chi Minh City's first metro line opened in December 2024, connecting Ben Thanh Market in the city center with Suối Tiên and the Eastern Bus Terminus in the northeast. While it's only mildly useful for short hops around the city center now, a full network of eight lines is planned for the future. Tickets are distance-based, ranging from 7,000 to 20,000 VND. You can pay by tapping a contactless Mastercard or Visa on the fare gates, including those linked to Apple Pay and Google Pay. Daily and monthly tickets are available from the HURC app. Single journey tickets, 1 day tickets, 3 day tickets, and reloadable smart cards are available from ticket machines at all stations. Trains run every 8-12 minutes from 5 AM to 10 PM, with the full trip taking around 30 minutes. Most stations are elevated, though three are underground. All stations are equipped with escalators and elevators for accessibility, with signs and announcements in both Vietnamese and English. Many stations also offer bike parking facilities. Use Exit 3 at Ben Thanh Station for direct access to Ben Thanh Market. Use Exit 6 at Ben Thanh Station for direct access to Ham Nghi Bus Transfer Station.

By boat Saigon Waterbus operates a service on the Saigon River from District 1 into Thu Duc City in the north of the city. It is geared more towards local commuters than tourists, but one of its stops is located near the Hotel Majestic, making it easily accessible from the Opera House and other downtown attractions.

By bus Primary bus stations:

7 Saigon Bus Station (Bến xe buýt Sài Gòn). This station is in the centre of HCMC, next to Thái Bình Market and September 23rd Park. Bus 109 to the Airport stops here. (updated May 2025) 8 Ham Nghi Bus Transfer Station (Trạm Trung Chuyển Trên Đường Hàm Nghi). This station is in the centre of HCMC, next to Bến Thành Market. Bus 109 and 152 to the Airport stops here. (updated May 2025)

Bright green and blue city buses, along with teal metro feeder buses, serve over 170 routes throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The buses are a cheap and safe way to travel around the city, and they're usually not too packed during off-peak hours (from 9AM to 4PM). Most buses have air conditioning, cushioned seats and next-station announcements. Finding the right bus line can be challenging if you don't speak Vietnamese. For information

See

Historical sites and museums

1 People's Committee Hall, Nguyen Hue St. Built as the Hôtel de Ville, it's a striking cream and yellow French colonial building beautifully floodlit at night. No entry, but the statue of Uncle Ho in front is a very popular place for photos. 2 Ho Chi Minh Museum, 65 Lý Tự Trọng, Bến Nghé (in the center of the city, a few blocks from Ben Thanh Market, the Reunification Palace, and Notre Dame Cathedral). The museum, housed in a French colonial-era building, narrates the history of Ho Chi Minh City from pre-history to the present and also has exhibits on local culture and traditions. Outside, on the museum grounds, you will find cars and military vehicles of historical significance. The museum also relates the life of the modern-day father of Vietnam. The exhibits include various personal possessions of Ho Chi Minh but are mainly photographs. You may find it a little jingoistic. 30,000 dong (Feb 2020). 3 Museum of Vietnamese History, 2 Nguyễn Bỉnh Khiêm, Bến Nghé, Quận 1 (at the intersection of Le Duan St and Nguyen Binh Khiem, just inside the zoo gates). Daily 08:30-11:30, 13:30-17:00. The museum has a fine collection of Vietnamese antiquities. Read up on Vietnamese history first or you'll have no idea what you're looking at. Outside, the Botanical Gardens are very nice and a good place for a cheap lunch away from the crowds. Six times a day, you can see a 20-minute water puppet show (adult 50,000 dong, child 35,000 dong). It's quite amusing, even for adults. 30,000 dong. (updated Feb 2020) 4 Independence Palace (Also known as Reunification Palace), 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, ☏ +84 8 969 3272. Daily 07:30-11:00, 13:00-16:00. This is a restored 4-floor time warp to the 1960s left largely untouched from the day Saigon fell to the North; construction started in 1962 and finished in 1966. It was South Vietnam's presidential palace. The war ended on 30 Apr 1975 when Tank 843 crashed through the gate. A replica of that tank is now parked on the lawn outside. Be sure to check out the aggressively 1960s recreation room on the third floor, featuring a circular sofa, and the eerie basement, full of vintage 1960s phones, radios and office equipment, supposedly left exactly as it was found when the North took over. There is also a photo gallery and a propaganda film recounting how the South Vietnamese supporters and American imperialists succumbed to Ho Chi Minh's indomitable revolutionary forces, at which point the South Vietnamese supporters were forgiven and everyone lived happily ever after. Free guided tours and an audio guide are

Do

1 Dai Nam Tourist Park, Hiệp An Ward, Thủ Dầu Một city, Binh Duong (about 40 km from HCMC; catch Bus 616 from the Ben Thanh bus station and take it all the way to the end (90 minutes, 25,000 dong as of Dec 2015), or talk to a travel agent), ☏ +84 650 3 891 389, +84 650 3 845 878. This is one of the largest tourist attractions in Vietnam. It features the Dai Nam Van Hien Temple, an entertainment site, open range zoo, shopping areas, hotels, local and Western cuisine, and the largest man-made mountain range in Vietnam. Costing over 50 billion dong to build, this park is the beginning of mass tourism in Vietnam, although it is aimed at tourists and locals, and comes highly recommended. Transport options to the park are quite convoluted. As the park is new, online information is scarce. According to the locals, it is very much worth a visit, purely just to view the temple. Adult/child between 1 m and 1.4 m: zoo 80,000/50,000; amusement park 100,000/50,000 dong; waterpark 100,000/60,000 dong; all three 200,000/120,000 dong. (updated Apr 2017) 2 Dam Sen Water Park, 03 Hoa Binh, Ward 3, District 11 (take Bus 11 from Ben Thanh bus station), ☏ +84 8 858 8418, +84 8 865 3453, fax: +84 8 858 8419, [email protected]. M-Sa 08:30-18:00, Su and holidays 08:00-19:00. Close to the city centre. This water park offers some unique water slide experiences, including the amazing "Space Bowl". Restaurant, health services and animatronic dinosaurs are on the premises. Admission is based on height and time of arrival; under 0.8 m free, others 40-110,000 dong (90,000 after 16:00). (updated Jan 2024) Happy Ending Massage Yuan, 15B8 Le Thanh Ton St, District 1 Ben Nighe Ward (on Le Thanh Ton between Thai Van Lung and Ngo Van Nam. Across from Sky Garden), ☏ +84 8 3825 0795. Despite the name, legitimate foot and body massage, hostess will explain pricing to you at the beginning, usually offering 30% discount. 223,000 dong. 3 Twenty-Three September Park (across from Ben Thanh Market and running the length of Phan Ngu Lao St). Running along Phan Ngu Lao St are a number of parks which fill up with locals before sunset, after work. They play a variety of games which you can participate in: badminton, kicking a shuttlecock and women's group aerobics to music are all very popular, and are great to watch. If you sit down by yourself in the open area near the Ben Thanh market a number of young university age locals will come and ask to practice English with you, this is a great way to spend an evening and the best way to meet intelligent interesting youth, they will question you eithe

Buy

Money

For exchanging money try your luck with the gold shops around Ben Thanh Market. Also, many travel agents will offer to exchange your foreign currency, though their rates are usually not as good as the gold shops. In case you are heading to Cambodia next and generally don't use US dollars but ATMs, you might get some very competitive rates if you help merchants (like gold shops or travel agent) to get rid of their Cambodian riel.

Shopping Vietnamese arts and crafts, or mass-produced resin knock-offs thereof, are sold by dozens of shops around the central tourist district. The best, most expensive items can be mostly found on Dong Khoi or the immediate side streets. The goods tend to get progressively simpler and cheaper as you move west toward Ben Thanh Market (though the best wood-carving shop is a stall on the back side of Ben Thanh). A few shops have authentic woven silk textiles from Sapa and the north. Lacquered paintings, plates, bowls, etc., are quite striking and unique to Vietnam. Vietnamese propaganda posters can be very impressive and offer a taste of history. There are two good guide books for shoppers in Ho Chi Minh City: the Luxe City Guide and the MySherpa Guide which also includes a map with shops cross-referenced.

Artworks Galerie Quynh, 65 De Tham St, District 1 (between Co Bac and Co Giang), ☏ +84 8 3836801. Tu-Sa 10:00-18:00. A serious contemporary art gallery in District 1. Unlike the galleries that focus on more decorative works, this gallery represents innovative local and international artists including Tiffany Chung, Do Hoang Tuong, Hoang Duong Cam and Sandrine Llouquet. (updated Dec 2023) Oil-Paintings, Bui Vien St (near the backpackers area in De Tham and Pham Ngu Lao). There are several shops along this street selling oil paintings. If you want a portrait of a Vietnamese painting or even have your own photograph oil-painted, shop around here. You can get a portrait within a day or two. 450,000-5,000,000 dong.

Books and newspapers Fahasa. Several locations around the city. (updated Dec 2023) Tri Books, Dong Khoi (corner of Ly Tu Trong). Stocks a wide range of English language textbooks and reference books. (updated Dec 2023) Book Street (next to the post office, one block long, between Notre Dame Cathedral and the Hard Rock Cafe). Book Street has a number of book shops, both run by individual vendors and some of Vietnam’s publishing houses. You can find books in both English and Vietnamese, as well as a few other languages. Prices vary from bargain used book racks to pricy illustrated volumes hot off the

Eat

You're spoiled for choice in Saigon, which offers the country's largest variety of Vietnamese and international food. Bargains are getting harder to find, however, and restaurant prices have been rising at up to 30% per year due to a combination of higher food prices, rising wages, and soaring real estate costs. Land in the city centre now sells for around US$16,000/m2, so even a modest-sized restaurant sits on real estate worth more than US$1 million. Authentic local food at bargain prices is one of the glories of Vietnam, but it's getting harder to find in Saigon as the city becomes ever more upscale and cosmopolitan. The local food shows influences from French colonial times. Bakeries have fresh and excellent baguettes, which they will fill with cheese (typically of the "La Vache Qui Rit" or "Laughing Cow" brand), potted meat, ham, and onions, or any combination thereof, cheaply. Beef is used in various dishes - whether in any of the many variations of pho, or in a regional specialty such as "bun bo hue" or Hue beef soup. Be sure to try, aside from pho, dishes such as the above-mentioned Hue beef soup, or "banh xeo". Vietnamese savory crepes, consisting of a delicious filling of your choice (various options included bamboo shoots and enoki mushrooms, along with meat, prawns, or both) in a crispy outer crepe-like casing. The Chinese community has also left their mark in Ho Chi Minh City, and the neighbourhood of Cholon continues to have a large number of ethnic Chinese residents, making it a natural place to go to for some Chinese food, though much of it has been adapted to suit Vietnamese palates. That being said, Chinese food is fairly popular among many upper class Vietnamese, so there are also many upscale Chinese restaurants throughout the city. For halal food, seek out the alleyways off Duong Ba Trac street in District 8 around the Jamiul Anwar Mosque, where there are a large number of Muslim Cham residents, and numerous food stalls selling halal versions of popular Vietnamese street dishes to cater to that community. A more centrally-located area would be Nguyen An Ninh Street near Benh Thanh Market, where there are numerous halal Malaysian and Indonesian restaurants catering to expatriates from those countries. Local food at bargain prices is very easy to find in Saigon. Banh mi thit (pork sandwiches) can cost as little as 10,000-15,000 dong. Com tam, a plate of rice with grilled pork (or with different meats) and a bit of vegetables for 18,000 dong.

Street food 1 Ben Thanh Market, Lê Lợi. It's a rather touristy market where you still can en

Drink & nightlife

Coffee Vietnam is the world's second largest exporter of coffee after Brazil, and cà phê is very popular among the Vietnamese. It's a paradise for coffee-loving visitors. The local style is strong and sweet; key words to remember are: sữa (sweetened condensed milk), đá (ice), and nóng (hot, pronounced "nowm"). Cà phê đá is strong, sweet iced coffee; and cà phê sữa đá is the same with condensed milk. Cà phê (sữa) nóng is brewed fresh on your table brewed in a little metal apparatus placed over a cup; just lift it off when it has cooled enough to touch (and hence drink). Prices range from 10,000 to 20,000 dong for coffee in the local style. Since ice might or might not be made with purified water, strictly cautious visitors should avoid it, though long-term residents consume ice from reputable cafes and restaurants all the time. Espresso, cappuccino, and American-style filter coffee are now also widely available in the tourist district, usually at 2-8 times the price of the local style. You will be able to differentiate the better places if they use UHT milk as opposed to condensed milk.

Bobby Brewery Coffee, Bui Vien St. Nice place with good beverages. Used to show movies on 2nd and 3rd floor. Now reopened as La Cantina. Cafe 5 Sao, Pham Ngoc Thach (Near the Turtle Pond). Plays loud techno music. Attractive, but pretentious crowd. Cafe Napoly, Pham Ngoc Thach (Near the Turtle Pond). The decor is Roman ruins-lite (they meant "Napoli"), but the menu is typical for an upscale Vietnamese cafe: coffee, fruit drinks, ice cream, and a simple menu including eggs and rice dishes. Piped music is nice, not too loud by day (though louder at night), prices are decent. Outdoor terrace in the front, air-con section on the ground floor, and evening lounge-bar on the upper floor. Next door to the louder, more trendy and possibly pretentious Cafe Nam Sao. Cafe Saigon, 57 Nguyen Du St (Opposite to Immaculate Conception Cathedral Basilica), ☏ +84 9378 66066. Italian coffee, foods, free Wi-Fi, relaxing & modern music. Chao Ba Ca Phe (Granny's Coffee), TK49/5 Nguyen Canh Chan, Q1 (Walk down Nguyen Canh Chan from the junction with Tran Hung Dao and take a left down the alleyway where the fruit salad restaurant is). This place has a really authentic and wonderful cafe sua da served by the famous "grandma" for about 8,000 dong. A little tricky to find. Chot Nho Café, 189 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan District (10 min by taxi from city centre). Reasonable prices, good menu. Free Wi-Fi. Fresco Coffee, 121 Le Loi St, ☏ +84 838 211 009. Free Wi-Fi, play hill song music.

Sleep

Most hotels do not allow you to bring back a local female companion to stay overnight. However it's best to confirm guest policy as plenty of non-international chain hotels allow guests.

Budget

The main backpacker hangout is Pham Ngu Lao in District 1, just a short walk (10-15 min) from Ben Thanh Market. The lanes and alleys in the area between Pham Ngu Lao and Bui Vien are jammed with 5-10 room mini-hotels offering prices around US$15 per room (air-con with hot shower and cable TV). There is no difference in price between single or double occupancy so if you are traveling alone you might want to try finding a dorm bed for around US$6 (but there are not many of them around.) Keep heading southwest away from the backpacker hustle closer Ng Thai Hoc, you'll likely find that as the alleys get smaller the rooms get quieter and owners more friendly. The area swarms with touts and other nuisances. The area is not the safest, and it'd be wise not to run around carrying something like an expensive DSLR camera, thereby making yourself a target for thieves.

An Phuong 2, 295 Pham Ngu Lao, District 1 (across from where buses drop tourists), ☏ +84 8 920 5509, +84 8 836 9248, [email protected]. A friendly family-run guesthouse, very clean and homely. Free Internet, cheap laundry and all rooms have double glazing. USD15. Blue River Hotel, 283/2C Pham Ngu Lao, District 1, ☏ +84 8 3837 6483, +84 903 679994 (mobile), [email protected]. Amazing small hotel in an alley off Pham Ngu Lao. They can arrange an airport pickup for USD15, although an official taxi from the airport counter will cost USD8. Some staff members speak English and the service is good. USD25 for a room without a view. USD30 for a room with a view that may or may not have a balcony. Dai Huy Hoang Hotel, 283/22 Pham Ngu Lao, District 1 (in a small quiet alley that links Pham Ngu Lao and Do Quang Dau. Coming from Pham Ngu Lao the alley is next to the Canadian Hotel), ☏ +84 8 3837 0677, [email protected]. Comfortable rooms with air-con, fan, free Internet and breakfast. Friendly staff. USD13-20. Diep Anh, 241/31 Pham Ngu Lao St, District 1, ☏ +84 8 38 367920, [email protected]. Very friendly owners. Rooms with air-con, refrigerator, cable TV, en suite bath, and Wi-Fi. Very reasonably priced minibar. USD10-30. Duna Hotel, 167 Pham Ngu Lao, District 1, ☏ +84 8 8373-699. All rooms have air-con, satellite TV, a fridge, elevator. Pleasant staff. The front door is locked around 23:00-24:00. From USD12 for a single room with no window to USD30 for a triple with a window facing

Go next

When going to the airport, specify clearly which terminal you want to go to. International flights leave from the newer international terminal (go straight). Domestic flights (to Da Nang, Hanoi, Nha Trang, and so on) are from the domestic terminal (turn left). If you get dropped off at the wrong terminal, you'll have to dash to the correct terminal via a pedestrian walkway link 600 m away. This is not recommended, especially if you're already late for boarding. When entering the airport, taxi drivers will add an airport entry fee of 5,000 dong to your total metered fare. This is not to be confused with the airport departure tax, which should have been included in the price of your airline ticket. If you're booking a bus around the Pham Ngu Lao area, you probably want to consider buying the tickets right at the bus company instead of one of the booking agencies. The FUTA bus line has an office at the corner Pham Ngu Lao / De Tham (orange-green building) and you get the tickets for around two-thirds the price compared to booking in an agency. Avoid booking trips through your hotel as you'll pay a significant surcharge to join the same trips which can be booked at the plethora of travel agents throughout the city.

Can Gio — the virgin mangrove forest 30 km south of the city. Entrance to the park is near Ca Cam Bridge. Can Tho — the biggest city of the Mekong Delta and famous for its floating market, delicious food, and fresh fruits. The name comes from "cầm thi giang", river of poems. The city is also referred to as "Tay Do" meaning "Western capital". Can Tho is 169 km (3 hr) from Ho Chi Minh City. You can get tickets at Le Hong Phong in district 3 and take a free shuttle bus to Ben Xe Mien Tay, where the air conditioned buses leave. Tickets to Can Tho cost around 100,000 dong. Free shuttle buses in Can Tho will take you directly to your hotel. Cu Chi Tunnel — day-trips are tirelessly flogged by travel agencies around Pham Ngu Lao, and can be done as a half-day trip, or as a full-day with a stop at Tay Ninh to see the Holy See of the Cao Dai religion. Tours, including admission, should cost 70,000-110,000 dong, and are available every day of the week. Cu Chi tunnels are about a 1.5-hr drive out of HCMC centre. It's worth taking the trips to see these amazing structures so cleverly carved underground and used for survival during wartime. One way to get to the tunnels is by speedboat. Dalat — popular hill station built by the French, offering a temperate mountainside "European" escape. Consider going via Cat Tien National Park to see wildlife (including pri