Havana

Understand

Before the Communist revolution, Havana was one of the vacation hot-spots of the Caribbean, and since Cuba reopened to tourism in the 1990s, it has become a popular destination once again, albeit with many fewer U.S. citizens, due to an almost total ban on travel maintained by the U.S. federal government. However, there will be lots of tourists at any time of year, so expect huge crowds and long lines in places.

History Havana was founded in 1519 by the Spanish. During the colonial period, it became a stopping point for treasure-laden Spanish Galleons crossing between the Old and New Worlds. Since independence from Spain in 1902, Havana has been the capital of Cuba. Today, the city preserves some of the oldest standing stone fortifications in the Americas.

Climate As typical of Cuba, Havana experiences a tropical climate.

Getting there

By plane 1 José Martí International Airport (HAV IATA). The airport has three main terminals (plus a couple of smaller ones). Terminal 1 is for internal (domestic) flights, Terminal 2 is mainly for charter flights and some scheduled flights from the United States and Terminal 3 is used for all other international flights. Customs officials can be very strict, and will probably snoop out any suspicious electronics or other items. Customs officials and immigration officials also work slowly and baggage reclaim can be very slow, so do not be surprised if you have a very long wait (up to 1½ hr) when entering the country. To get to travel between terminals you can take a cab or use the shuttle service between terminals (Connexions). To reach Terminal 3, exit at the stop for Terminal 2 and walk about 50 m west toward the airport, until you reach a bus shelter. From the bus shelter, wait for the hourly bus, hail a taxi (as low as ~US$1 if shared with Cubans), or walk the 2.5 km to Terminal 3 (for international non-US bound flights). Note that the bus does not enter Terminal 3, but drops passengers at an unmarked stop on Carretera de Murgas, across the street from La Casanosa restaurant. La Casanosa restaurant is about 200 m north-east of Terminal 3. There’s an ATM and currency exchange in the departure hall (1st floor); however, don’t count on either being open, because these services are not very reliable in Cuba. At the airport (airside and landside) you pay the same prices for tobacco and alcohol as you would in a store in downtown Havana. There have been reports online that bottles bought in the airside shops were not properly sealed and thus seized during security checks for a connecting flight at another airport. Therefore it might be a good idea to buy those things already before you depart to the airport. In Terminal 3 there are two tobacco shops, a small supermarket, Wi-Fi (can only be used with ETECSA-card), some souvenir shops and a snack bar that also serves alcohol. There is no ATM airside and that not all shops accept credit cards. There are regular international flights to resort areas such as Varadero, and these can sometimes be less expensive than flying into Havana. From Varadero's Viazul terminal to Havana's Viazul bus terminal is 3 hr by bus. Getting there/away:

By taxi – An official taxi to Havana center costs ~US$20-25, but you can find slightly cheaper (illegal) ones. The cost is roughly ~US$1/km. By bus – Havana MetroBus routes P-12 and p-16 travel within 400 m to 500 m of Terminals 1 (stops on Avenida Rancho Boyeros at Avenida Van

Getting around

By taxi As a tourist, the most convenient way of getting around Havana is by taxi. Some of the taxis are old American Chevys from the 1950s, others are (somewhat) newer Russian Ladas, whilst most tourist taxis are modern Peugeots, Skodas and even Mercedes. It is illegal for tourists to ride in anything other than the official government taxis. However, it is often easier to wave down one of the old Chevys or Ladas. When riding in an illegal taxi, negotiate the fare ahead of time. The fare in illegal taxis will be no cheaper than the official taxi fare. Around the city, taking illegal taxis should be no problem. However, taking an illegal taxi to or from the airport may attract the attention of the police.

By colectivos Taxis colectivos are the old, beaten-up American cars with a taxi sign on the roof or in the front window, which will typically already have numerous Cubans on board getting on and off and will take additional passengers if flagged down. Tourists are not supposed to take them, but you will rarely run into problems and they are a fun and cheap alternative to the state-run taxis. They have set fares and run set routes, so you may need some assistance when taking them the first few times. The drivers are generally honest regarding the fares, but it is best not to appear oblivious by asking how much at the end of the trip. Always watch what the other passengers give. There can be a long wait trying to get a taxi colectivo as they are very popular with Cubans and often full, but the experience and the savings make it worthwhile. The following is a non-exhaustive list of colectivo routes: Parque de la Fraternida (westbound on Simon Bolivar, just west of Industria). Follows Simon Bolivar, Avenida Salvador Allende, Avenida Manuel de Cepedes, Avenida de la Independencia, Avenida de Rancho Boyeros. Route travels within blocks of Habana Vieja, Plaza de la Revolucion, Viazul bus station (800 m away), and Airport Terminal 2 (500 m away).

By Coco taxi Coco taxis and yellow three-wheel motorbikes are a cheap way of getting around central Havana. Coco taxis are bright yellow motorcycle cabs that charge ~US$0.50/km (2016), or more if they think they can get away with it.

By bus

Havana operates modern YuTong Chinese city buses. The cost of riding the new city bus is the same to anywhere in the city. The driver will not give you change. Almost all buses are overcrowded, there are plenty of buses running though, so if the one you want is full simply wait for the next one (don't expect to sit though). There are few clearly marked bus stops on route

See

The Old Town of Havana, 'La Habana Vieja, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and strolling along its streets and enjoying the beautiful buildings is a must for any visitor. Some parts of the Old Town are quite dilapidated with crumbling buildings but many others have been restored to their former glory. An evening walk along the Prado is a great way to sip in the street life and enjoying the hums of numerous cafes and restaurants. The street is however not illuminated at night. Another favorite stroll for tourists and locals is along El Malecón, Havana's waterfront with stunning views of the city.

1 Museum of the Revolution (Museo de la Revolución), Refugio No 1. 09:00-17:00. Housed in the former presidential palace, this iconic museum offers a history tour from pre-Columbian to the revolution in 1959 and on to present-day socialist Cuba. There's more than a hint of propaganda among the exhibitions. Admission ~US$6, use of camera ~US$2 extra. 2 National Capitol Building (El Capitolio), Paseo de Martí, 422, ☏ +53 7 8637861. Completed in 1929, this neoclassical building which resembles the U.S. Capitol. It housed the Cuban Congress prior to the revolution and is now the National Assembly. (updated Jul 2025) 3 Partagás Cigar factory (Fábrica de Tabaco Partagas), Calle Industria 520 (Behind the Capitol Building), ☏ +53 7 8624604. A guided visit to the original Partagás factory gives a wealth of information about production and cultivation of tobacco and cigars. It is also the place for buying authentic Cuban cigars, more expensive than on the street but with fantastic quality. the equivalent of US$10 in pesos for a guided tour, no photography allowed. 4 Havana Club Rum Museum (Museo del Ron Havana Club), Avenida del Puerto 262. Go on a guided tour of Havana Club, one of Cuba's most famous rums. Most of the exhibits are subtitled in English and are fairly self-explanatory. 5 Plaza de la Revolución. Huge square dominated by a statue and monument of Jose Marti and the iconic image of Che Guevara adorning the Ministry of the Interior. Arrive either early or late, as it is often swamped by tourists and gets very hot during the day. (updated Jun 2017) 6 Lennon Park (Parque Lennon), Calle 8 (In Vedado). Features the only statue of a western musician in Havana. Notable for the regularly stolen (and replaced) eyeglasses. 7 US Embassy, Calle Calzada (In Vedado, just off El Malecón). This heavily fortified and guarded building is where Cuban citizens go to apply for U.S. visas. It was notable for displaying news which was unfiltered and not censored by the Cuban gov

Do

Outdoor activities 1 Walk along the Malecón (the sea wall that runs along the Havana coastline.). On weekends this is where the locals come to party, so bring a bottle and join in. (updated Jun 2017) 2 Walk down the Paseo del Prado. A lively pedestrian zone full of locals spending their free time. (updated Oct 2017) Latin American New Cinema Festival. A popular event held every December, screening international films and drawing around 500,000 people. 3 Bike tour, Discover Havana by bike (Citykleta), 117 San Francisco street, Centro Habana, between San Lázaro St. and Jovellar St. Havana, ☏ +535 5652579, [email protected]. Sunrise - sunset daily. Citykleta offers you a wide range of shared or private bike tours, bike excursions and events in Havana through which you can get to know the city like no other. ~US$28. (updated Jun 2019) Take a tour in an old car. Be driven around Havana in style. Choose a car you like near the Hotel Inglaterra or outside the Museum of the Revolution. ~US$20-30/hr for up to 4 people. (updated Jun 2017) 4 Go to the eastern beaches (Playas del Este). There is a bus leaving from Hotel Inglaterra every 30 minutes. The ride takes about 30 minutes. ~US$5 for a roundtrip. (updated Jun 2017) 5 National Theater (Teatro Nacional de Cuba), Paseo & Cl 39, Vedado (close to Memorial a José Martí at Plaza de la revolución). Come here for concerts, the Ballet Nacional de Cuba and teatre. Functions are held irregularly. Beware of scams as ushers try to sell you the same ticket for up to ~US$25 shortly before the function starts (and only paying the nationals price). Instead go to the box office to get it for the official price. foreigners ~US$10.

Live music

Nearly every restaurant and hotel in town has a decent house band playing old favorites.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Regularly has live music events that often cost only 250 CUP. Check their Facebook page for the announcements (updated Feb 2026) Hotel National. Often hosts big name talent such as Omara Portuondo. See also information below. (updated Jun 2017) La Zorra y el Cuervo, La Rampa (near the Hotel Habana Libre). A tiny little club below street level, they often host funky and amazing jazz musicians. Go there for something a little different. (updated Jun 2017) La Tropical. A venue designed to hold several thousand people. It only opens for live music. Look around for signs in the streets publicising the next event. (updated Jun 2017) Casa de la Musica de Centro Habana. The place to be if you like to dance Salsa. Check the program before you buy tickets, there are

Buy

Havana is a surprisingly expensive city to stay in; if you stay in hotels and eat in restaurants it can work out to be nearly as expensive as other popular international destinations. If you are on any kind of a budget, stay in casas particulares; it is much cheaper, often more comfortable, and the food (a recurring theme in Cuba) is almost invariably better. Although prices may be shown here in US dollars, you will pay in pesos (CUP). ATMs are not too hard to find in downtown Havana, but American credit- and debit-cards cannot be used in Havana. Credit cards issued in countries other than the United States may be issued by a bank whose parent company is a U.S. corporation. In this case, the card will not work as the parent company is bound by U.S. law. Even banks wholly owned by non-American companies may have a policy on blocking Cuban transactions in order not to compromise their US business. Always check with your bank or credit card company before leaving home to see if your card will work in Havana. Also, the ATMs do not accept MasterCard/Maestro but are marked to accept Visa. You can withdraw money from your MasterCard in a couple of exchange offices. There is one in the basement of the Hotel Nacional, but expect quite steep service fees. The current unofficial exchange rate can be checked at eltoque.com. Near the airport a place with a good exchange rate is located near GPS 23.0055,-82.4142. In the city center, many money exchangers can be found at the intersection of Neptuno and Prado (23.1381, -82.3595) almost 24h.

Eat

Whilst restaurants can be quite expensive at the top end for rather mediocre food, some such as the Café de Oriente have a splendid ambiance. The average government-run restaurants are about US$20 for two.

Budget Peso stalls are all over the city, particularly on Prado Marti. Some restaurants like Hanoi, in Calle Brasil, offer generous meals for the equivalent of US$5. You can get ice cream in small street booths scattered around the city. You can also get a filling bocadito (small ham sandwiches) or a cajita (small meal in a cardboard box), or a "pizza". Particularly, the Terminal de Omnibus, by the Plaza de la Revolucion, has a very good cafe with offerings as fried chicken.

1 Coppelia Ice Cream parlour (Heladería Coppelia), 2111 Calle L (Opposite the Habana Libre hotel), ☏ +53 7 8326184. 24/7. Practically a Cuban institution with people waiting up to an hour to get a seat. 2 Chan Li Po, Campanario 453 / Zanya & San Jose (in Barrio Chino), ☏ +53 7 8704747. 11:30-24:00. The restaurant is upstairs, fully air-conditioned, looks immaculate. Despite being a Chinese restaurant, they serve European dishes too. Friendly service. About ~US$4 for one pizza. Cocktails are ~US$2.5. (updated Jun 2017) 3 Hanoi (La Casa de la Parra), Corner of Teniente Rey and Bernaza (Near Park Cristo), ☏ +53 7 8671029. 11:00-23:00. Old fashioned restaurant, with live music and no A/C. They even serve traditional Cuban food, such as black beans with rice. (updated Jun 2017)

Mid-range Keeping your eyes open you can find complete menus (starter or salad, soup, main dish, dessert and a national beverage) for the equivalent of US$6-10 in pesos. In the Vieja, there are such restaurants in the smaller, not very crowded streets. A least one paladar charges a hefty per-person service charge on top of your bill (~US$10 per couple at Paladar Amistad de Lanzarote in Central Havana) - deceivingly printed in Spanish only in a bilingual English/Spanish menu. Also no matter what the owner insists, there is never a tax levied for eating at paladares. Always ask before ordering. There are many good, mid-priced restaurants in Chinatown. "Bavaria" is one of the best if you can picture a restaurant named after a German province pronounced like "barbaria" with Chinese decor, serving pizzas and spaghetti.

4 El Aljibe, Avenida 7ma, ☏ +53 7 204 1583. In the Havana suburb of Miramar, El Aljibe is the definitive proof that food in Cuba needn't be bland. Try the house specialty, chicken in sour orange sauce. El Aljibe also has a remarkably well-stocked wine cellar. 5 La Casa, Calle 30 No. 865, Nuevo

Drink & nightlife

There are two types of establishments you can go to drink in Havana: Western-style bars with near-Western prices, good selection of quality drinks (and sometimes food), nice decorations, semi-motivated staff and often live music, typically found around tourist hot-spots such as Old Havana and tourist hotels. Here you will mostly meet other tourists, expats and a few Cubans with access to hard currency, but don't expect a 'local' experience. Bars with a sign saying "Hemingway drank here" will be pricier than others. The alternative is to seek out local neighborhood bars where you can choose from a quality, but limited, selection of drinks (mainly locally produced rum by the bottle, beer and soft drinks, very rarely will you be able to get cocktails such as mojitos), cigars of dubious and cigarettes of only slightly better quality, and sometimes snacks. These bars are also a good way to meet locals who may even open up a bit and talk about their lives after a couple of drinks. Local bars are not that hard to find despite typically having no prominent signs displayed outside. Just ask or walk around a local neighborhood and look out for a bare-walled, neon-lit run-down room without any decorations or furniture, save for a bar and a few rickety chairs and tables, sullen staff and depressed/bored/drunk-looking customers, almost always men. Contrary to Cuba's reputation as a music and fun loving nation, these places are not boisterous affairs - they are quiet, almost subdued, music is rarely played, and have the charm of third-world railway station waiting rooms. Nonetheless, they make for a fascinating experience (especially if you make the effort to speak to some locals - offering to buy a drink will get a conversation going, no surprise there), and they provide a good insight into what life must be like for ordinary Cubans without hard currency. As a foreign visitor, you will be generally welcomed. Discussing politics over a drink is a tricky, and typically lose-lose proposition: speak negatively about the Cuban political system and you may put your Cuban drinking companions into a very difficult position as they may very well be informed on (for hanging out with subversive foreigners); enthuse about the Revolution, Che, Fidel, Cuba's health care system, sticking it to the Gringos, etc., and people will assume that you are at best naive or at worst not in full possession of your mental faculties. You can have a great time just outside of the Hotel Inglaterra near the Capitólio Building, drinking good daiquiris and mojitos at an affordable price.

1 La Bodeg

Sleep

There are 3 main areas that travelers generally stay in: Old Havana is the liveliest (some would say hectic and dirty), Central Havana is slightly quieter and parts can be a bit seedy, and Vedado is the quietest with more greenery, and is the place to find the large hotels and nicer casas particulares. Hotels vary. Do not be surprised if you have no hot water and bad TV-reception in a hotel that still goes to the effort of having an in-hotel doctor and hosting extravagant shows of synchronized swimming in the hotel pool. List of casas particulares

1 Casa Ana & Surama, San Ignacio no 454 2º piso entre Sol y Vieja Santa Clara La Habana Cuba (50 meters from Plaza Vieja), ☏ +53 7 8622717, [email protected]. Clean house in colonial style, like you are time travelling, see the pictures on website of our casa. €25-60 Depending room and how may persons and when. (updated Jan 2024) 2 Casa "Todo de Aitana", 14 street, #51, between Linea Ave. and 11 street, Vedado (building in the corner of Linea Ave. and 14 street, 6th floor, apartment 25). Full apartment for 1-3 guest. The apartment is very nice, quiet and clean, with views to the sea and sunsets. 1 bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, nice balcony. You can reserve on Airbnb https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/15798248/ US$35-50 (depends on season). (updated Oct 2017) 3 Ana y Chuchi, Aguacate 513, Havana Vieja (/e Sol y Muralla (between streets Sol & Muralla)), ☏ +53 7 861 1877, [email protected]. Very central place with a great host who gets out of her way to make people comfortable. Three rooms of different sizes. Small windows overlook patio, breakfast and dinner are enormous. ~US$25-30 inc. breakfast. 4 Casa Mabel, Industria No. 270 (altos), between Neptuno and Virtudes, Centro Habana (One block from Parque Central and Prado. Close to Malecon and Havana Vieja.), ☏ +53 7 8635706, [email protected]. A very friendly family home. 2 comfortable rooms with balcony and great view for rent. ~US$25. 5 Jorge Leon de la Hoz, Neptuno No. 1218 (altos), e/ Mazon y Basarrate, Vedado Plaza (Close to the University end of Neptuno street), ☏ +53 7 870 7723, [email protected]. A very friendly family home, close to the Universidad de la Habana. Room rates are negotiable depending upon the length of stay. Señores Elsa y Julio Roque, Consulado No. 162, apto. 2 (between Colon and Trocadero), ☏ +53 7 860 1257, [email protected]. A very friendly couple rent rooms in their centrally located house, and help find other houses in case they're full. Both speak good English and offer helpful information. Reservations can be made by e

Go next

Enjoy the beach in Varadero Taste some nature in the Valley of Viñales Isla de la Juventud Visit the French-style city Cienfuegos, the small town Trinidad and the adjacent Topes de Collantes national park Go east to Santiago de Cuba