Harbin

Understand

Harbin is China's northernmost major city, with a population in excess of 10 million, and over 4 million in the city center alone. The city has been influenced a lot by neighboring Russia, in particular after the October Revolution of 1917, when the Russians of the White movement that supported the deposed czar escaped the country after the communist takeover, many of whom settled in Harbin. Although most of these Russians were deported back to Russia during the Soviet occupation of Harbin at the end of World War II, or fled following the communist victory in the Chinese Civil War, the Russian influence remains clearly visible in the building styles and foods. As a significant minority of these White Russians were Jewish, Harbin also has much Jewish heritage to explore. The city was founded in 1897 as a camp for Russian engineers surveying the Trans-Siberian Railway. Labor demands brought in a collection of outcasts from across Russia, Poland and even from within Manchuria. The city was captured by the Japanese during World War II and later taken back by the Soviet Union in 1945, before being returned to China in 1952. Once nothing more than a Russian-built outpost of the railway line, Harbin has managed to become a major player in its own right and the capital of Heilongjiang Province.

History

Early History Harbin's history of human habitation can be traced back to at least the Neolithic period, but until the Five Dynasties era, it remained a largely quiet and undeveloped land, falling under the jurisdiction of the Fuyu Kingdom and the Bohai Kingdom successively. During the Five Dynasties period, the Harbin region became part of the Liao dynasty's Dongjingdao (Eastern Capital Circuit). In 1114, the Jurchen leader Wanyan Aguda led a revolt against the Liao dynasty and proclaimed himself emperor in 1115, establishing the Jin dynasty with the era name "Shouguo." The capital was set in Huining Prefecture (Shangjing Huining Prefecture of Jin), and Harbin became part of the capital's surrounding area. Around the founding of the Jin dynasty, Harbin experienced unprecedented social and economic development. Its residents were primarily concentrated along the banks of the Hejia, Majia, and Ashi Rivers. Several ancient city sites from this period include Wanbao Ancient City (north of Houchengzi Village, Wanbao Town, Songbei District), Songshan Ancient City (west of Songshan Village, Taiping Town, Daoli District), Pingle Ancient City (west of Zhenghuang Santun, Pingxin Township, Pingfang District), Sifangtai Ancient City (south of Sifangtai Village, Qunli To

Getting there

By plane 1 Harbin Taiping International Airport (哈尔滨太平国际机场 Hā'ěrbīn Tàipíng Guójì Jīchǎng, HRB IATA). Harbin's sole airport and one of the main international airports of Northeast China. The airport is 37 km from the city centre near the town of Taiping. Flights from the airport serve dozens of domestic destinations along with a small but growing list of international destinations in Russia, Japan, South Korea, Taiwan, Thailand and Singapore.The airport is small, but there are a few restaurants and snack bars selling local delicacies, Chinese and western food, and a nearby hotel if you happen to get stranded. If you are flying out of Harbin most ticket agencies can arrange transportation to be included in the cost of the ticket. Another option is to take a taxi, which costs around ¥100-130. Always negotiate this price before the ride, though. Drivers will make their meters read more for the ride otherwise or try to get you to pay for the highway ticket in addition. Please ask the taxi driver for invoices and take down the car number if necessary. It is safe to take a taxi with official certification at the airport. There are also four bus services to downtown Harbin. Tickets cost ¥20 and take around 1 hour. Purchase bus tickets at the booth inside the terminal before heading outside to board the bus. (updated Jan 2018) Airport Bus Line 1 - Airport 机场 - Kang'an Lu 康安路 - Tongda Jie 通达街 - Anfa Qiao 安发桥 - Harbin Railway Station 哈尔滨站 - CAAC Building 民航大厦 Airport Bus Line 2 - Airport 机场 - Haining Fur City 海宁皮草城 - Ling Gongli 零公里 - Chilun Lu 齿轮路 - Harbin West Railway Station 哈尔滨西站 - Fuzhuang Cheng 服装城 - Xuefu Binguan 学府宾馆 - Hexing Shangsha 和兴商厦 - Lesong Guangchang 乐松广场 - Guolu Chang1 锅炉厂1 - Haci Jituan1 哈慈集团1 - Tongxiang Shangdian1 通乡商店1 - Nongken Dasha 农垦大厦- Tianyang Binguan 天洋宾馆 - Huizhan Zhongxin 会展中心 1 Bus only stops during morning and evening peak hours. Airport Bus Line 3 - Airport 机场 - Chengxiang Lu 城乡路 - Guxiang 顾乡 - Anhong Jie 安红街 - Zhongyang Dajie 中央大街 - Ba Qu 八区 - Daowai Long Distance Bus Station 道外客运站 - Jungong 军工 - Taiping Qiao 太平桥 - Harbing East Railway Station 哈尔滨东站 Airport Bus "Hazhan" Line - Airport 机场 - Harbin Railway Station 哈尔滨站

By train

Being a major Chinese city, Harbin is well connected by train and is a convenient way to travel. The city is served by several train stations, so the station you arrive or depart from will depend on the train you take. Be sure to confirm which station your train calls at beforehand. The major railway stations in Harbin include:

2 Harbin railway station (哈尔滨站), 1 Tielu Jie. This station is served by t

Getting around

By taxi Taxis are inexpensive and convenient. However, always ask them to run the meter (请打表 qǐng dǎ biǎo) instead of attempting to negotiate a price in order avoid possible conflicts. Flag fall is ¥8 and covers the first 3 km of travel. After that, the rate is ¥1 per 500 m. There is also a charge levied based on the time the car is stationary (i.e. stuck in traffic), but this is usually only of significance in truly awful, gridlocked traffic conditions. At the end of the journey, a ¥1 fuel surcharge will be added to the amount displayed on the meter. If you wish to have a receipt, say to the driver (请发票 qǐng fā piào). Taxi drivers in Harbin are known to be reckless—running red lights, driving into oncoming traffic, etc.—so buckle up! Do not be surprised if the taxi stops to pick up other passengers during rush hour, and if you are picked up by a taxi with passengers, even if the meter reads ¥13 when you get in, the taxi driver will still expect you to pay the full amount on the meter when you depart the taxi! Most taxi drivers do not speak any English or read Pinyin, and other European languages are far less widespread, so unless you speak fluent Mandarin Chinese showing them the Chinese characters for your destination is often the only option that will work.

By bus Still the backbone of Harbin's public transport system, at least until the Metro expands, the bus system covers pretty much every part of the city. For all its practicality for locals, for tourists it shares many of the same problems of other Chinese urban bus systems, foremost being that the system signage is completely in Chinese, although some buses do announce the next stop information in both Chinese and English. The buses vary in quality, although there does appear to be a program in place for updating buses route by route. Modern buses have heating systems (a godsend in winter!) and are both relatively nimble and accelerate rather quickly. Older buses on the other hand might remind some of agricultural vehicles, are usually unheated and may not even have proper seals on the windows. That said, it can still be a useful method of transport, especially when all the taxis seem to be taken. People who plan on staying in Harbin for a long period should at least be familiar with routes that take them to their residence, workplace, or college. Fares for most buses are only ¥1 or ¥2 for a single ride. No tickets are issued. Passengers can pay by touching on with an "IC" card or by putting ¥1 or ¥2 into the fare box as they board the bus. Be sure to be standing by the back door when you wa

See

Architecture and buildings Russian Buildings. Harbin's old quarter, which covers a wide area of the city near the Songhua River, is still today mostly made up of buildings that were constructed by the Russians at the turn of the 19th century. Most of them are built in baroque or byzantine style with spires and cupolas and interesting shades of yellow, white, green, or red. While St. Sophia is known as the main architectural attraction to the city, areas of the city such as Harbin's old quarter are made up of buildings that have been left untouched since the Russians left. While most of these streets are fairly decrepit and in need of repair, at least the area has been free from the wrecking ball like many other historical districts in China. Only because Harbin has yet to attract the world's investment. 1 Zhongyang Dajie (中央大街 Zhōngyāng Dàjiē; lit. Central Avenue) (Runs from Jingwei Jie to Stalin Park at the river). Pretty much closes by 22:00 (weekend nights included). This cobblestone lined street is a pedestrian only street that could serve as a perfect remnant of the bustling international business activities at the turn of the 20th century. The 1.4-km long street is a veritable museum of European architectural styles, including Baroque and Byzantine façades, Jewish architectural wonders, a Russian restaurant, French fashion houses (Fake Chinese Brands), American snack food outlets (Mcdonalds and KFC and a Chinese owned "American Bar"), and a Japanese restaurant. In winter, one can walk out onto the ice or take a dog sledge or horse sledge ride. It is the prettiest site in Harbin as far as the city itself is concerned, however, if you go mid-day during the weekend be prepared to push through the crowds. (updated Sep 2025) Old Quarter. A section of the city just west of Zhongyang Dajie is still dominated by Russian buildings built around the turn of the century. Not well maintained but an interesting walk and you can maybe find Russian antiques in some of the thrift stores.

Religious sites

2 St. Sophia Cathedral (圣索非亚教堂 Shèngsuǒfēiyà Jiàotáng) (Corner of Zhaolin Street and Toulong Street). One of the few still standing Orthodox churches in the city. It is now converted into a Harbin Museum of Architecture. Inside there are exhibitions of many photographs from old times. Definitely worth going into, however, if you are used to European Churches do not expect the quality. ¥20. (updated Nov 2023) 3 Harbin Jewish New Synagogue (哈尔滨犹太新会堂 Hā'ěrbīn Yóutài Xīnhuìtáng), 162 Jing Wei Jie. Has been restored and contains an impressive collection detaili

Do

Festivals

International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival By far Harbin's biggest claim to fame, the Harbin International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival (哈尔滨国际冰雪节 Hā'ěrbīn Guójì Bīngxuě Jié) is held every year, running from early January until warm weather erodes the constructions (exact dates vary). Throughout the city you will find small ice and snow sculptures during the festival, however there are three major sites with large ice and snow sculptures on display.

The major sites for the Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival include:

1 Ice and Snow World (冰雪大世界 Bīngxuě Dàshìjiè), North side of the river, west from Sun Island (Take bus 47 from Daoli 12 Daojie station (道里十二道街站)). 09:00-21:30. Large buildings and sculptures made of ice. Best viewed after sunset. This festival is one of the main reasons people come to Harbin in winter. ¥330 (students ¥160, admission is ¥100 before 13:30). (updated Feb 2019) Ice Festival, Zhaolin Park (冰雪游园会, 兆麟公园 Bīngxuě yóuyuánhuì, Zhàolíngōngyuán), in the city center at Zhaolin Park, south side of the river. 13:30-21:30. Rather small exhibits compared to the other two main festivals. Best viewed after dusk. ¥200 (Students: ¥80, admission is cheaper before 13:30). (updated Nov 2023) 2 Sun Island International Snow Sculpture Art Fair (太阳岛国际雪雕艺术博览会; Tàiyángdǎo guójì xuědiāoyìshù bólǎnhuì), on Sun Island, north side of the river (Just a few steps from the Sun Island gondola station or just cross the frozen river by feet). 08:00-17:00. Beautifully carved snow sculptures, massive dimensions. However, if you plan to visit the Ice and Snow World then this is not a must see. Pretty expensive for what you get to see and all other activities in the park are extra. ¥240 (students ¥120). (updated Feb 2019)

Other Harbin Summer Music Festival (哈尔滨之夏音乐节 Hāěrbīn Zhīxià Yīnyuèjié). Held every two years in July (next will be in 2018), this festival is organized by the city and brings in famous Chinese bands for free concerts held in the city square. (updated Nov 2023) Harbin International Beer Festival (哈尔滨国际啤酒节 Hāěrbīn Guójì Píjiǔjié). Held in late August of every year. The city takes a break and honors the local "Harbin Beer" for a week. A whole public square is cordoned off and there are stages that host music concerts and dance contests. Most of the beer drunk is the local Harbin brew, but there is a tent for international beers. In the summer of 2005 a number of the foreigners in the city assembled a "drinking team" and ended up getting into a drunken brawl with some locals and got hauled away by the police. (updated Nov 2023)

Buy

Imported Russian goods of all types and qualities are available from tourist shops around town. Look out for vodka, Russian dolls, and chocolate. The local Chinese appeared to have picked up some aspects of Russian cuisine, with western style bread and sausage available around town. Beyond this, the shopping is much like any other city in China.

1 Churin (秋林公司), No.319 Dongdazhi Street, Nangang District (南岗区东大直街319号) (Bowuguan Metro Station, Lines 1 & 2, Exit 2), ☏ +86 451 58938011, [email protected]. Founded in 1900 as part of a Russian department store chain, Churin is an icon of Harbin. The company’s main branch on Dongdazhi Street is now a cross between a traditional department store and a modern shopping center, that is to say there is a mixture of shops owned by Churin and shops owned by other companies. The underground floor sells the most famous red sausage and lieba (列吧, the big Russian bread). Also do remember to try the non-alcoholic drink brewed from lieba, Da Lieba Gewasi (大列巴格瓦斯). If you’re interested in Churin’s history, you should head to the staircase in the middle of the building where some old photos are displayed on the walls. If you climb to the top floor, you can also view a small collection of antiques acquired by the company over the years. (updated May 2022) Zhongyang Dajie The main shopping district is along Zhongyang Dajie where there is a Wal-Mart near the flood control monument and another shopping district along Guogeli Jie where you can find clothing, food and more. Along this street are huge new shopping malls such as the Euro Plaza, Parksons, and Lane Crawford that carry international brands and are expensive. There are Nike stores, KFC and interesting Russian thrift stores. The street is lined with beer gardens during the summer. However in winter, the shops closed quite early due to bitter cold.

Guogeli Dajie (果戈里大街). Harbin's second biggest shopping district after Zhongyang Dajie (bigger in size). The area around here is dotted with Russian buildings and HUGE shopping complexes. At night there are numerous night markets, a small scale Russian church where people dance, and a small and lively "bar lake." Indian Street (印度一条街). A commercial side street right off Guogeli Dajie. If you're facing the East, it's past the giant castle and on your right. Used to be complete with Indian thrift stores, clothing, and food, but now offers only Russian items, including dolls, pocketknives and toys. But don't expect any Indian restaurants as there aren't any yet.

Money Most ATMs around the city work with international ca

Eat

If there is one thing special about Harbin, it has to be the food. Taking influences from Russia, Mongolia, Korea and of course China, the food in Harbin is much "heartier" than you can find anywhere in China, and stews and other duncai are popular dishes. Because the winters are long here you'll find fewer exotic ingredients and heavy use of vegetables like cabbage, potatoes, cucumber and corn. Chinese BBQ or shaokao and Hot Pot is also equally popular in Harbin and is a must eat once you get into town. One thing you will notice is that Dongbei people love to eat, and it's not just for the food, but for getting all their friends together at one table and drinking/eating the night away. Thus this city is dominated by restaurants with large tables that seat groups of people. Besides small food stalls, only near the Universities and busy shopping areas will you find cozy little restaurants. In Harbin, liveliness (renao) attracts customers as much as the food; some restaurants are so loud you may need earplugs! Harbin is also known among the Chinese for its Russian food, though it is often significantly localised and may not be the same as what Russian visitors would be used to back home.

Budget

Street Snacks

1 Modern Ice Lolly (马迭尔冰棍), No. 89 Zhongyang St (In between Xi Qi Dao and Xi Ba Dao in Zhongyang St. When you get close you notice everyone, local, tourists, young, old, male, female, hold an ice lolly.). One of the icon of the city. Visit Harbin without Modern Ice Lolly is like going to Beijing without seeing the Great Wall. While everywhere in Harbin sale Modern Ice Lolly, only the hundred-year shop in Zhongyang St is the real one. Hardly can one find a place with everyone in all age group on the street hold an ice lolly, and it is worth to go and have a look even if you are not a sweet tooth. The shop has no advertisement and the ice lolly has no packing, and it can be sold 10,000 per day, all year around. Only two flavours and ¥5 for one. Do remember to try it in winter when it is -30 °C! Everyone's favourite! ¥5. (updated Dec 2025) Hotpot and Harbin beer (火锅和哈尔滨啤酒 Huǒguō hé Hā'ěrbīnpíjiǔ). Can be found anywhere in Harbin. (updated Nov 2023) Assorted Meats on a Stick (串儿; Chuàn'ér). Sold on every street, try asking for grilled bread buns (考馒头; Kǎomántou), its really good. Finish everything off with an egg and tomato Gada Tang (soup). No more than ¥10 for 6-7 kabobs and soup. Harbin Smoked Sausage (哈尔滨红肠 Hā'ěrbīn Hóngcháng). A treat only known to Harbin, you see stores selling it everywhere, it is REALLY good. (updated Nov 2023) Rus

Drink & nightlife

Just because Harbin is below freezing a good amount of the year, doesn't mean it's devoid of nightlife. In fact, Harbin is one of the "rowdier" cities in China. Just don't expect Shanghai or even Beijing "quality" establishments. Most places in Harbin have puke stains on the toilets that are months old. With a good number of foreigners living in the city studying and working, the weekends are always bustling around 2-3 locations such as Blues, The Box, Pacers, or the small bars around the Universities. Dongbei people are reqing (热情) or very lively and seem to drink with almost every meal! Oftentimes at restaurants you'll see drunk men singing away and then lighting up their cigarettes to signal the night is coming to an end. And of course what would be better than to spend the wee hours of the night singing away to the tune of Titanic and Michael Jackson at one of the KTV's that can be found at almost every street corner! In Harbin, people often start off the night at a cheap shaokao or Hotpot restaurant washed down with ¥1.5 bottles of Hapi. After a long dinner it's common to go to one of Harbin's clubs or bars to spend the rest of the night. If you are not a fan of the drinking scene, Harbin may not be for you as there isn't much else to do. That being said, there are dozens of small bars and a few cafes, so if you are not one for dancing and loud discos there are plenty of options. Some non-drinking activities include bowling, pool, or visiting a tea house.

Clubs Many discos that cater mainly to Chinese have table minimums. That is, each table has a different minimum purchase to sit there and you must purchase at least that much as soon as you sit down. They won't trust that you will eventually purchase enough over the course of the evening. Some even have the price of the table on a tent card sitting on the table. You can try to get around this sales tactic by saying you want to just have a look around (wo yao xian kan kan) and hope that they forget about you.

1 Blue's (布鲁斯酒吧), 100 Diduan Jie (地段街100号). Dirty, crowded, and dangerous. Everything that is Harbin, Russians, Mongolians, Turks, Canadians, Brazilians, Koreans. Frequent staging ground for fights between Koreans and Mongolians or Russians fighting with Russians. The staff has also been known to get involved in fights or start them. Friday nights 22:30 and afterward get really crazy when about 80% of Harbin's foreign newcomers head out to Blue's to party. Also, at 23:00 you can buy a bottle of Vodka for ¥10, but it is devil water from Anhui has made many people go nuts and dance on the po

Sleep

Budget Almost every bath house in the city has a large room with 50-100 plush beds where you can spend up to 24 hours. You can also lock your belongings in a locker and use their shower facilities, most of them have an 'all you can eat' buffet as well. Total around ¥50 which just can't be beat. Look for signs that say 洗浴 and make sure its fairly big as the smaller ones will not provide these types of services. When you come in pack light as to not look suspicious. This is not recommended for inexperienced travelers and it is highly unlikely any of the service staff will speak English. Other budget options include:

1 Harbin Institute of Technology Foreign Students Dorm 6, 5 Gongjian Street, Nangang District, HIT Campus. There are two foreign students dorms at HIT that may have overnight accommodation. Each room has its own bathroom/TV with good heating during the winter. Can be full during the holidays. Central location with good security. Refused accommodation to non-HIT students in October 2007. No English. Not likely to accommodate you, and you are best to exhaust other options before attempting. ¥50–100. 2 Meijia (Beautiful Home) Apartment, ☏ +86 18249460499, [email protected]. In city centre, about 40 minutes by bus from Harbin Airport. It is cozy, clean and safe. The facilities include TV, air conditioner, fridge, 24 hour hot water, microwave oven, double beds, bedsheets, blankets, closet and with good heating in the winter. Priced at ¥199 per night, including electricity and water fees.

Mid-range 3 Bremen Hotel (勃莱梅大酒店), No.146 Zhongshan Road. Western style hotel that must have been great when it was new. 4 Harbin Overseas Chinese Hotel, 72 Hongjun Street, Nangang, ☏ +86 451 3641476, fax: +86 451 3623439. 5 Harbin Modern Hotel, 89 Zhongyang St., Daoli, ☏ +86 451 84884099, fax: +86 451 84614997. Fantastic location, right in the middle of the pedestrian mall of Zhongyang Dajie. Very limited English but quite helpful staff, and the history of the hotel makes it an interesting place to stay. There are old artifacts in the lobby such as old movie projectors and silverware. Rooms are comfortable and range from standard to suites. 6 Sinoway Hotel (Twin Towers), 2 Yiyuan Street, Nangang, ☏ +86 451 86291111. Decent hotel with English-speaking staff right in Hongbo square

Splurge 7 Friendship Hotel (友谊宫宾馆), 263 Youyi Rd., Daoli, ☏ +86 451 84880668, fax: +86 451-84617132. Good location and decent rooms. 8 Holiday Inn (万达假日酒店), 90 Jingwei Street, Daoli, ☏ +86 451 8422-6666, fax: +86 451 8422-1661. English-speaking staff. 9 Kunlun Ho

Go next

Wudalian Chi. Volcanic lake surrounded by forests and small farming communities a train and bus ride away from Harbin. Take the train to Dedu and then a 2 hour bus ride to the lake. Mudanjiang and surrounding areas. This is a short train ride from Harbin and within short bus rides you can reach Mirror Lake, the Underground Forests, and the Yabuli ski resort. Zhalong National Nature Reserve. Huge bird preserve near the city of QiQihaer, can be reached by a short 5 hour train ride from Harbin. Daqing. 2 hour train ride from Harbin, this city is home to China's largest oil fields. Hulunbeier Grasslands (Inner Mongolia). Take the train to Hailaer and under 12 hours (overnight) you can find yourself on some of the world's biggest grasslands, stunningly beautiful. Summer is the best time to go. Dalian. Dongbei's most modern and cleanest city, right on the coast. A great weekend getaway if you are in Harbin for an extended period of time and looking to catch some fresh seaside air 13 Yabuli (亚布力 Yàbùlì) (Within 2 hours of the city). Yabuli is one of the largest skiing areas in China and venue for the 1996 Asian Winter Games. (updated Nov 2023)