Hakodate

Understand

Hakodate is located on the south coast of the Southern Circuit in Hokkaido, the northernmost major island of Japan. As one of the first cities in Japan to be opened to trade, like Yokohama and Kobe, there are numerous signs of foreign influence in Hakodate, notably in architecture. Hakodate used to be the largest settlement of explorers in Hokkaido Island through and after the Meiji era, following the few years of the Republic of Ezo since 1868 (see box). The city-wide fire in 1934 significantly reduced its influence and population with many moving north. Despite continued depopulation, as of 2023, it is still the third largest city on the island with a population of roughly 240,000 people, surpassed only by Sapporo and Asahikawa.

Tourist information site The local tourist association has a Japanese-only guide site.

Getting there

By plane 1 Hakodate Airport (HKD IATA 函館空港), 〒042-0952 北海道函館市高松町511 (on the exit of Prefectural Route 63; follow the oval and on the left side), ☏ +81 138-57-8881. First daily departure: 07:35; last daily departure: 19:45. Hakodate is connected with direct flights from Sapporo (Okadama by JAL, Shin-Chitose by ANA), Tokyo-Haneda, Nagoya-Centrair, Osaka-Itami, and Taipei-Taoyuan. ¥500 to Hakodate Station. (updated Oct 2023) Hakodate Airport is connected to notable spots in the city by buses through these stops:

Bus Stop 1: Line 7A, 7B, 7E, and 7F to Goryokaku Park. Bus Stop 2: Line 5 to Trappistine Convent and Goryokaku Tower, Line 96 to Yunokawa Onsen. Bus Stop 3: Shuttle buses to Hakodate Station and Onuma Quasi-National Park. Otherwise, National Route 278 follows the south coast towards Hakodate Station while Prefectural Route 100 goes through the northern edges of the city proper towards Hokuto. Taxis are plentiful, if relatively expensive. Price estimates are as follows (20% surcharge added between 22:00 and 05:00):

Airport Area (Trappistine Convent, Hakodate Arena, Yunokawa Onsen): ¥1,500-2,000. Central Area (Goryokaku Park, Goryokaku Tower, Central Library, Hakodate Museum): ¥2,500-3,500. Station Area (Hakodate Station, Morning Market, Red Brick Warehouses, Old Town, Mount Hakodate): ¥3,000-3,500. Ferry Area (Tsugaru Kaikyo Ferry Terminal): ¥4,000-5,000. Hokuto Area (Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station, Trappist Convent): ¥8,500-11,000. Onuma Area (Onuma Quasi-National Park): ¥10,000-13,000.

By train

Hakodate has three train stations of note:

Hakodate Station (函館駅) is downtown and served by conventional trains. Goryōkaku Station (五稜郭駅) is northwest of the city and connects with the Isaribi Line towards Kikonai. Not to be confused with Goryōkaku Park or Goryōkaku Tower several kilometers east. Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station (新函館北斗駅) is 18 km north of Hakodate Station and is the northernmost terminal for the bullet train. Hakodate Liner (はこだてライナー) shuttle trains connect these stations, timed to match the bullet train schedule. Hokuto limited express train connect these stations northbound to Onuma Quasi-National Park, Toyako, Noboribetsu, and Sapporo. It takes approximately 4½ hours to reach Hakodate from Tokyo using the Hayabusa bullet train and the Hakodate Liner. A one-way trip costs ¥23,500 in standard class, and is fully covered by the national Japan Rail Pass. With the bullet train expanding north to Otaru and Sapporo, the new mayor of Hakodate is considering a plan to connect Hakodate Station directly to the network. If enacted, it will be av

Getting around

Hakodate is connected by two (practically one that branches to the SW of the city) streetcar lines and roughly two-hundred bus lines. Take a ticket or tap the IC card reader when boarding, then drop the ticket in the ticket box or tap again when getting off. Nationwide IC cards can be used in Hakodate, but using the local ICAS nimoca cuts ¥160 off bus-bus/bus-streetcar transfers, though it's probably not worth the hassle for travelers to create a card for this discount alone. Pay exact amounts in cash, and use the 両替 machine next to the ticket box to exchange coins or ¥1000 bills to smaller denominations if needed. Larger bills and the new (silver core with gold ring) ¥500 coins can only be exchanged with the driver. Day passes costs ¥600 for the streetcar, ¥800 for the bus, or ¥1,000 for both. Most passes can only be purchased from the DohNa!!! website, but streetcar-only paper passes can still be purchased from the driver when alighting. The two streetcar lines are Route 2 (Y, red), and Route 5 (D, blue). Both lines run from Yunokawa (湯の川) until they branch at Jūjigai (十字街).

See

1 Mount Hakodate (函館山 hakodate-yama, 334m) (A ropeway will take you up for ¥780/1280 one-way/return. There are also buses (by Hakodate Bus) from platform 4 of the main bus station in front of Hakodate Station in summer season (mid-April to mid-November). A trip back and forth will cost ¥400 each, however, the Day Pass is valid, making it a great deal! The bus frequently stops at stunning points along its venture up - this can be important as the top station is often covered in clouds.). Offers spectacular views of the city of Hakodate in clear weather and offers, according to locals, one of the three best night views of not merely Japan but the entire world (the other claimants being Naples and Hong Kong). The busiest time is during sunset, so if you plan to take a sunset photograph, be ready to arrive early and claim your spot... and be prepared for a 40-minute waiting queue to catch the cable car back from the summit. Ropeway: ¥780/1280 one-way/return; Bus: ¥400 return or included in Day Pass. Fort Hakodate Ruins (函館要塞跡). Fort Hakodate, also known as Tsugaru Fort (津軽要塞), is located on Mount Hakodate. This was a World War II battery (though it predates World War II as a fort) which now has been recreated with camping tables where the air batteries used to be. From the upper ropeway station, use the lower exit on the left of the arrival/departure deck and follow the stairs downward to a second parking lot. There you'll see a sign of the west battery, just follow the path. For the east and south battery you have to hike or take a car there. 2 Fort Goryōkaku (五稜郭) (Streetcar Goryōkaku-kōen-mae (五稜郭公園前) stop). A star-shaped fort, a symbolic site to the city itself. Completed in 1864, this was Japan's first Western-style fortress and finished just in time for it to be occupied by the Ezo Republic as their headquarters. It never saw any action though, as the rebels surrendered peacefully. Most of the fort was consequently demolished and this is now a large park and popular cherry-blossom spot in spring. The fort also houses a small museum with exhibits on local history (rotating each year). (JR Goryōkaku station is not near to Goryōkaku. Tram or bus are recommended.) 3 Goryōkaku Tower (五稜郭タワー) (Streetcar Goryōkaku-kōen-mae (五稜郭公園前) stop nearby Fort Goryōkaku (五稜郭)). From the 90-meter viewing platform you can get a striking view of the star-shaped fort. Neat dioramas tell the story of the Enomoto and Ezo Republic (see sidebox), and the role of the fort in Hakodate's history; an English pamphlet is available. The views from Goryōkaku Tower is different on e

Do

Port Festival (函館港まつり Hakodate Minato Matsuri). annually from August 1st to 5th. This is Hakodate's biggest carnival and known for very unique Hakodate Squid Dance (函館いか踊り Hakodate Ika-odori) in its parade Wassyoi Hakodate (ワッショイはこだて Wasshoi Hakodate). The parade is normally in the 2nd and 3rd day (2nd day: Jujigai to Matsukaze-cho, 3rd day: Horikawa-cho to Goryokaku). Also there are a fireworks event in 1st day. (Please note that this schedule may be changed because of the weather.) Hakodate Christmas Fantasy, ☏ +81-138-27-3535. annually December 1 to 25. A giant Christmas tree is displayed floating on the sea in the red-brick warehouses (金森赤レンガ倉庫群) area during the festival each year. Lighting-up events with fireworks are held every night. This Christmas trees are presented by Halifax, Canada every year. Kameo Agriculture Village (亀尾ふれあいの里 Kameo Fureai no Sato), Kameo. Here you can experience agriculture. Everyone can enjoy this place. You can sow seeds and plant vegetables. For example, you can grow strawberries, rice, buckwheat and sweet potato. After the food developed, you can harvest it. You can also pick cherries there. The adult rate is ¥400, and the rate for children is ¥200. Hakodate Nanae Snowpark (函館七飯スノーパーク hakodate nanae sunōpāku), Kameo. A mid-sized ski resort adjacent to Lake Onuma and accessible by bus from Onuma Station. Features 2 chairlifts and a gondola as well as a rental shop. 1 Yachigashira Hot Springs (谷地頭温泉), 20-7 Yachigashira-cho (谷地頭町20-7) (5 minute walk from the Yachigashira (谷地頭) tram stop. This is stop is only on route 2.). 06:00-22:00, last entry at 21:00; closed every second Tuesday of the month and occasionally on the fourth too. A hot spring near Mount Hakodate. This is muddy hot spring as opposed to the clear hot spring at the Yunokawa Hot Springs on the other end of the tram line. Most users are local residents of Hakodate. A cafeteria is on site. Soap and towels are available for an extra fee. Free parking available. ¥420 for an adult, additional charge for other services. (updated Jan 2019) 2 Yunokawa Onsen Footbath (湯の川温泉 足湯), 1 Chome-16 Yunokawacho (close to Yunokawa-Onsen tram station). 9:00-21:00. A free foot bath with multi-lingual information signs about the history of the place. The water temperature is pretty hot, it takes a little time to get used to it. Bring a towel to dry off your feet after the bath, or just let them air-cool otherwise. free. (updated Sep 2023)

Buy

1 Morning Market (朝市 asa-ichi) (Near the JR Station and the streetcar Hakodate Eki-mae (函館駅前) stop.). Crammed into a couple of bayfront buildings, rows of vendors sell a variety of seafood, but the main attraction is the huge selection of Hokkaidō's famous crabs. Open 5:00 (6:00 in the winter) until noon. Next to the market are a number of restaurants, most of which specialize in seafood-topped donburi (rice bowl). Glasswares and musicboxes can be bought at the old Meijikan Post Office (明治館 meiji-kan). Meijikan is near the vicinity of the red brick warehouses (akarenga) and the Hakodate Beer Hall. Get off at the streetcar's jujigai (十字街) stop.

Retail

Department stores Two department stores sandwiching the 五稜郭公園前 (Goryōkaku-kōen-mae) streetcar stop are available in Hakodate:

Marui Imai (丸井今井) is the oldest and most popular chain in Hokkaido. They are also available in Sapporo. Share Star (シエスタ) hosts rotating small local businesses, Starbucks, JINS, MUJI, as well as a public community space on the fourth floor.

Convenience stores Seicomart (セイコーマート) is a convenience store chain that is almost exclusively available in Hokkaido. It sells many Hokkaido-specific foods and knick-knacks. 7-Eleven, FamilyMart, and Lawson are also available in decreasing order. Hasegawa Store (ハセガワストア) is a convenience store chain only available in the Hakodate area. They are well known for やきとり弁当 (yakitori-bentō). It is a grilled pork skewer lunch set despite やきとり (yakitori) in the name, though grilled chicken skewers are also available.

Drug stores Tsuruha Drug (ツルハドラッグ) is a nationwide chain with duty-free shopping available. Sapporo Drug Store (サッポロドラッグストアー) is a local chain exclusively available on the island.

Eat

Hakodate's signature fish is squid and its signature dish is Hakodate shio rāmen (noodle with salty soup. not to be confused with shoyu ramen), a version of the ubiquitous noodle dish prepared with — you guessed it — squid stock instead of the usual pork. Nearby Mori-machi is also reputed to have Japan's finest ika-meshi, rice-stuffed squid. If you dare, eat the odori-don or ike ika-don dish, where a live squid is caught from the fish tank, its head removed, sliced and served as a side dish, and the rest placed on top of a rice bowl. The squid is so fresh that you can still see it change colours and move its tentacles on the plate as you pour the soy sauce!

1 Restaurants and food stalls at the Morning Market (朝市 asa-ichi) (next to the train station). Explore this lively market and its stalls. In and around the market are there many small restaurants where you can eat all kinds of preparations of squid and other fishes, including the "odori-don" dish. Asian Bar Ramai (アジアンバー ラマイ), Goryokakucho 31-10 (五稜郭町31-10) (across the street from the Hasegawa convenience store near to the Hakodate Shimbun Building), ☏ +81 138-83-7461. 11:30–21:30, last order 21:00. A small chain of Indonesian-style soup curry restaurants found in many locations across Hokkaido. Has an unusually large scale for spiciness (up to infinity!) and also features several difference house specials, of which the spiciest is 'Dewi Fujin.' There are two other locations in the city (see website) but are not as easy to access without use of an automobile. 2 Hakodate Beer Hall (函館ビヤホール hakodate-biahōru), Suehiromachi 14-12 (末広町14番12) (across the street from the Starbucks in the akarenga district, the restaurant is the first on the left when you enter the building), ☏ +81 138-27-1010, fax: +81 138-27-1256. 11:30–22:30. This food-and-beer restaurant, located in a red brick warehouse in the akarenga district, combines a German bierhalle atmosphere into its interior design. The large food menu includes a good selection of seafood dishes, western specialties such as pizza and spaghetti, and there are a couple of locally-brewed beers on tap, although quite pricey (¥870 for a pint). English menu with pictures available. Lucky Pierrot (ラッキーピエロ) (next to Goryokaku tower and in twelve other locations across the city). This hamburger restaurant chain is exclusive to Hakodate, popular among citizens and known for reasonable prices. Each franchise is decked out in its own unique kitsch including one in art deco and another in year-round Christmas themes. They made international news when they offered a “w

Drink & nightlife

There are two main drinking districts in Hakodate, Daimon, which is close to the station, and Goryōkaku, in particular Hon-Cho. Foreigners seem to be more catered to in the Goryōkaku area.

Bagus. A surfer-style bar open 'til morning. Bar Big Job (バービッグジョブ), Hakodate, Honcho, 7-7 (behind Hokuyo-Ginko bank in Goryokaku), ☏ +81 138 54 3003. An English-style standing room only bar featuring a selection of bottled Belgian beers. Chairs are often set up outside in front of the bar during the warmer months of the year. Eiley's Irish Pub (アイリッシュパブエイリーズ), Hakodate-shi, Honchō, 9-5 3F, ☏ +81 138 54 4771. A spacious Irish pub on the 3rd floor of a building in Goryokaku. Several beer options from around the globe including Guinness on tap. Ramaru ラメール, honcho 2-3 Alpha Building. 21:00-4:00. Small drinking place 2nd floor. "Nomi-ho Dai" All you can drink for 1½ hours, ¥3000. Look for a "Blue Ship's Anchor" on the sign next to the Boss coffee machine. This street has many bars so it is a little confuzing to find. But if you find it- it's well worth a chat with Osho-san. the owner. Kingyo (金魚), Honcho 9-3 Honcho Building 2nd Floor. Elegantly styled drinking establishment. "Nomi-ho Dai" more than 3 people; All you can drink 1½ hours- ¥3500 p/p.

Sleep

1 Oyado Aozora Inn (おやど青空), 22-4 Wakamatsuchō. A 2-minute walk from the Hakodate station. It is a cozy inn with clean tatami rooms run by an English speaking Japanese lady. Laundry available and the internet in the lounge area is free. 2 Minshuku Sumitomo (民宿住友). Five blocks (or street lights) straight on from Hakodate station, or take the bus to Omori-cho. Rooms are typical Japanese 15-tatami Spartan minshuku-style, bathroom included. In 2007, management did not speak English. 3 Tōyoko Inn (There are two of these hotels in Hakodate (Asaichi, Japanese for 'Morning Market' and Ekimae Daimon, Japanese for 'front of the station, large gate) and both are within easy walking distance of Hakodate station, Asaichi to the right as you exit the station, and Ekimae Daimon to the left as you exit the station. Both are visible on the skyline from the front of the station.), ☏ +81 138 23 1045 (Asaichi). Check-in: 16:00, check-out: 10:00. All Toyoko Inns are pretty much the same though the Asaichi one is a little bit more in amongst the action with the Morning Market nearby than the Ekimae Daimon. They offer very convenient and cheap rooms and free breakfast but lack the 'Japanese experience' you may get from other options. Rooms can be reserved online through an English website. ¥5000 - 6000. 4 Comfort Hotel Hakodate (コンフォートホテル函館) (Across the square in front of the train station). A business hotel conveniently located next to the train station. Rooms are small but clean, and the price includes breakfast. ¥5000 for a double room. 5 Premier Hotel Cabin President Hakodate (プレミアホテル-CABIN PRESIDENT-函館) (Opposite the train station), ☏ +81 138 22 0111. Formerly "Four Points by Sheraton". The rooms are small but the location is excellent. The bar on the 13th floor has nice views and can do you a decent martini. 6 Hakodate Kokusai Hotel (函館国際ホテル (Hakodate International Hotel)) (Turn right at the first set of traffic lights in front of the station, past the Morning Market and about a ten minute walk), ☏ +81 138 23 0591. Pricey, but worth it if you can get a room with a view of the bay. Nice location not far from the station and near the red brick warehouse area and not far from the old part of town. Called the "Kokusai" (international) hotel, but nothing particularly international about it apart from the name. ¥6,000-45,000. (updated Apr 2020) 7 HakoBA Hakodate, 23-9 Suehiro-cho (末広町23-9) (3 minute walk from the Suehiro-cho (末広町) tram stop. Also within walking distance to the Jugigai (十字街) tram stop. The Suehiro-cho stop is exclusively on route 5.), ☏ +81 138-27-5858. Che

Go next

Lake Onuma (大沼 ōnuma), a "quasi-national park" that's about half an hour to the north by express train, offers a pleasant quick gateway. If you wish to go to Lake Ōnuma by local train, make sure to check the train schedule since local trains only come every 2 hours or so. Matsumae (松前), 1½ hour drive from Hakodate along the coast, has the only castle in Hokkaidō, which is in Matsumae park, famed in southern Hokkaidō (南北海道 minami hokkaidō or 道南 dōnan) for excellent cherry blossom viewing in late April/early May. Esan (恵山), known for its Tsutsuji (Azalea) festival in late May/early June, it's about a 45-minute car ride east of Hakodate city proper (but still within the city limits). The drive will take you mostly along the coast with scenic views of northern Aomori on clear days. Esashi Hokuto Kikonai Shiriuchi Imabetsu Aomori Tomakomai Otaru Sapporo