Gaza City

Understand

Positioned between Israel and Egypt, Gaza Strip contains several towns and cities that have grown together. The capital and largest city is Gaza, with Khan Yunis and Rafah being the second and third largest. Several smaller villages are nestled between these cities. It does have reasonably modern infrastructure and architecture despite its troubles, but a UN report as early as 1952 stated that the Strip was too small to support its population of 300,000, and now there are well over 1.7 million inhabitants. On 7 October 2023, the Israel-Hamas War broke out, and thousands of people have been killed. Most inhabitants are descendants of Palestinian refugees who fled or were expelled from their homes in Israel during or after the 1948 war and were not allowed to return to their homes and villages. As they were not Egyptian citizens they were not allowed into Egypt, either.

History Gaza has been around for a while: the earliest known reference is an inscription in the Temple of Amun at Karnak, Egypt, dated 1500 BC, which states that the town of Gaza is 'flourishing'. And for a long time it did: a staging post on trade routes connecting Asia and Persia with Arabia, Egypt and Africa, even the name means "treasure" in Arabic. Alexander the Great laid siege to the town in 332 BC, executing 10,000 defenders after being held off for two months. Later, the town was held by the Romans, the Crusaders, the Mamluks, the Ottomans and briefly even by the French in 1799, when Napoleon Bonaparte set up camp on his way to defeat in Egypt. The Turks took it back, then lost it to the British in World War I. The Egyptian army grabbed it during the 1948 war that led to Israel's independence, opening camps for Palestinian refugees who fled and were expelled from their homes by Israeli forces — and the current situation began when Israel occupied the Strip in 1967. Spurred by the violence of the 1987–1993 Intifada ("Uprising"), Israel and the Palestine Liberation Organization signed a "Declaration of Principles on Interim Self-Government Arrangements" in 1993, under which the Palestinian Authority (PA) was created to govern the Gaza Strip and the West Bank for a transitional period "not exceeding five years" as a step towards full independence. Parts of the territories were indeed handed over to the PA between 1994 and 1999, but the peace plans were derailed by the second intifada that broke out in September 2000, unleashing another spiral of violence. Israel unilaterally disengaged from Gaza in 2005, evacuating Jewish settlements and withdrawing its troops from the territory.

Getting there

Getting into Gaza is both difficult and unwise. As of around 2003, all would-be visitors were required to apply in advance for Israeli permission to enter the Strip. The application is usually submitted through your embassy in Israel and, in theory takes between 5–10 days. In practice, it can take months, and if you're not either a fully accredited journalist or an aid/human rights worker, you're unlikely to get permission to enter Gaza from Israel. Because of the Israel-Hamas war, it is not possible to enter Gaza from Egypt through the Rafah crossing.

By plane Gaza has no functioning airport, as the former Yasser Arafat International Airport (GZA IATA) has been shut down, and the runway was destroyed by Israeli bulldozers in 2002. The closest airports are El Arish International Airport in Egypt (which has no commercial flights) and Ben Gurion Airport near Tel Aviv (TLV IATA). The closest non-Israeli commercial airports are Jordan's Queen Alia International Airport (AMM IATA) and King Hussein International Airport (AQJ IATA), while the closest Egyptian-controlled airport with non-charter commercial service is Cairo International Airport (CAI IATA). Taba International Airport (TCP IATA) is closer than Cairo, but only charter flights fly there.

Entry by land

The main point of entry is through the Erez crossing in the north, on the border with Israel. Getting to Erez is easiest done by taxi, it's also possible to travel by Dan BaDarom bus #20 from Ashkelon to the checkpoint. You will need a permit from the Israeli Army, or a GPO (press) card. If you have a permit, you need coordination with the Israeli Army, specifying when you are planning to enter and leave Gaza. Journalists with a Government Press Office (GPO) card can come and go as they please. Only vehicles with prior coordination (such as a handful of UN cars) are allowed to drive in and only after a thorough search, which may take months. It's very helpful to travel with someone that's run the gauntlet before the first time via Erez. At Erez, you have to approach the Israeli soldier in a pillbox. They may ask you to open your bags on the table, and (as at TLV) ask if you have weapons. They'll check your passports and permits for allowed entry. You then wait outside an electronic gate for your turn to be called through. You then enter the terminal, hand your passport and coordination over to another soldier to receive an Israeli exit stamp. That soldier may or may not ask you more questions, usually things like whether it's your first time in Gaza, etc. If everything is satisfactory, take b

Getting around

There is no public transport in Gaza, but there are numerous service (ser-VEESS) taxis. Navigation is done by landmark, not street address. Stand on the side of the road that is in the desired direction of travel. When a driver stops indicate the destination landmark e.g., "Shifa" and the number of passengers ("wahid" for one, "it-nayn" for two.) If the driver is not headed that way, he may drive on. Travel up and down Omar al-Mukhtar St. will set you back ₪1; trips elsewhere are negotiable. Near al-Shifa hospital is a line of taxis that travel to destinations beyond Gaza city. The drivers yell out their destination and wait until their vehicle is pretty much full before they leave. It is advisable to watch your step if walking, since traffic is chaotic and sidewalks are largely non-existent.

See

Gaza is not exactly a top tourist destination and most of its attractions have taken quite a beating during the past 50 years.

1 Grand Omari Mosque (Great Mosque of Gaza ; جامع غزة الكبير, Jāmaʿ Ghazza al-Kabīr). Makes up for its lacklustre appearance with an interesting history: it's a converted Crusader church built on the site of a Hellenic temple with pillars from a 3rd-century Jewish synagogue. Large parts of the mosque, however, were destroyed in 2023 Gaza war and genocide, though works to restore the mosque went underway in 2025 (but remains still hampered by the war). (updated Jul 2026) 2 Ibn Marwan Mosque. Built in 1324. (updated Aug 2023) 3 Sayed al-Hashim Mosque (In Old City of Gaza). (updated Aug 2023) 4 Katib al-Wilaya Mosque (جامع الولايات). A late medieval mosque. (updated Oct 2023) 5 Church of Saint Porphyrius. Orthodox church, celebrating Saint Porphyrius who was Bishop of Gaza around 395-420 CE. The current church was built around 1150 by crusaders and renovated extensively in 1856. (updated Feb 2015) 6 Holy Family Church (كنيسة العائلة المقدسة). Only Catholic church in Gaza. (updated Aug 2023) 7 Caravanserai of Yūnus al-Dawādār (In Khan Yunis, next to the Great Mosque). Also known locally as Barquq Castle. This fortified khan (Arabic inn) dates back to 1387 AD. (updated Aug 2023) 8 Great Mosque of Khan Yunis (المسجد الكبير) (In Khan Yunis). Main mosque in Khan Yunis, built in 1928. (updated Aug 2023) 9 Al-Qarara Cultural Museum (متحف القرارة الثقافي) (In Khan Yunis). (updated Aug 2023) 10 Ruins of Saint Hilarion Monastery. Located att the archaeological site Tell Umm el-'Amr, Saint Hilarion was an active monastery for four centuries, from the late Late Roman to the Umayyad period. Named after Hilarion the Great (291–371 AD), who is venerated as a saint by the Orthodox and the Roman Catholic Church. The tell and monastery were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2024. (updated Aug 2023) 11 Gaza War Cemetery, Salah al-Din Rd. Burial site of over 3,000 British and Commonwealth servicemen who perished in the First World War, mainly in the battles for Gaza during 1917. (updated Aug 2023) More educational might be a UNRWA-arranged visit to one of the refugee camps that dot the strip. The UNRWA office is on al-Azhar St, near the Islamic University, call ahead to see if they can arrange a little tour. Your most probable destination is the optimistically named Beach Camp, a warren of concrete huts and open sewers housing 63,000 people, built next to a sandy beach - and you can walk there on your own, 15 minutes to the north from the i

Do

There's very little to do in Gaza for the average tourist. There is a beach, however the water isn't the cleanest in the area, you'd be better off on a beach further north in Israel. There are nice sunsets though over the Med, which can be seen from hotels like the Al Deira.

Buy

Despite the intense conflict and rhetoric, Gazans use the Israeli shekel (₪). But bring some boxes of cigarettes into the Strip and everyone will be your friend. However, please note the policemen at the Hamas checkpoint into Gaza are now opening all bags and disposing of any alcohol (since early 2009). Do not bring alcohol into Gaza, it could land you into serious trouble and it is always good to respect local Islamic customs.

1 Gaza City Centre. This elegant mall opened in 2010 is the place to be to escape the hubbub of Gaza's bustling Rimal district. With a fully-stocked supermarket, fast food restaurant and multiple shops, Gazans have quickly taken to this place. Enjoy the relaxing fountains if you have had enough of shopping or need a break. The Gaza Mall is comparable to most Western-style malls only in structure and comfort, but not even remotely in size. You will usually find it packed to the brim with residents of Rimal in the summer escaping the midday heat and may quickly find you want to escape elsewhere. PLO Flag Shop. A bit tough to find (ask around) but unmistakable once you spot it. It's the place to buy Palestinian flags, stickers, badges, and pennants. (updated May 2020) Interesting sculptures / lampshades fashioned from old cigarette cartons. Foustouk and simsimiya. The former is a sticky peanuty snack. The latter is its sesame cousin. An elderly man in Gaza City with a grey tweed jacket crops up on a different street corner when he has a fresh batch.

Eat

Usual Arabic cheap eats are available anywhere. Head to the posh suburb of Rimal for fancier food; the restaurant in the Windmill Hotel is nice. If you wish to bring in any food, you should first check which foods are and are not acceptable under Islamic law. If you are caught with forbidden food, it may lead to trouble with the authorities or the local population. Finally, it is not unheard of to be invited over for dinner.

Abu Hassera. Fish specialist. Aldeira Restaurant. On the seaside terrace, this restaurant serves lovely mezes (small Mediterranean-style dishes), including the Gazan speciality Daqqa (a sometimes very spicy chili salad, very nice). They also have some tasty main courses: try the shrimps in tomato sauce, baked in the oven, and served in a clay pot. And don't miss out on the fresh strawberry juice! Enhanced with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream, it is highly enjoyable. Matouk (behind the legislative council building). Serves an excellent chicken tawwouk. 1 Roots Club, Cairo St, Remal (in the heart of Gaza City), ☏ +972 8 2888666, fax: +972 8 2888999, [email protected]. Fine dining. Offers both high end Arabian/Mediterranean cuisine and cheaper fast food at the Big Bite annex. The restaurant frequently caters for special events, including foreign dignitaries and heads of non-governmental organizations. Seafood Restaurant (just north of al-Deira hotel). Very good seafood restaurant. Al Mat'haf Resort (Soudnya beach), ☏ +970 8 2858444. On a small hill overlooking the sea in Gaza stands “Al-Mathaf” (Arabic for “The Museum”, pronounced Al-Mat-Haf), a one-of-a-kind recreation and cultural center that showcases Gaza’s rich historical past and seamlessly blends it into the context of life in modern Gaza. As its name suggests, Al-Mathaf is home to Gaza’s finest archaeological museum, which is filled with beautiful artifacts that celebrate Gaza’s rich cultural heritage. Alongside these historical treasures of ancient civilizations, today’s Gazans gathers at Al-Mathaf’s beautiful Restaurant-Café, a center of modern culture and recreation in Gaza. In a time when many in Gaza have forgotten our heritage, Al-Mathaf aims to preserve the region's rich history, provide a venue for modern cultural dialogue, and carry a message for this generation to build a brighter future.

Drink & nightlife

Due to increasingly strong Hamas influences, alcohol is no longer available. Alcohol is forbidden in their interpretation of Islam, and Hamas, as a conservative Islamic group, prohibits it. If you do manage to find some, you should not attempt to go out under the influence; you may land in a very bad situation. If you are caught with booze on your person by Hamas authorities, it will probably be confiscated, and you may be detained. Bags are given a quick search on entry to Gaza.

Sleep

There are several hotels in Gaza. However, it is also possible to stay with locals who might even invite you over for a night.

1 Al Deira Hotel (فندق الديرة غزة فلسطين), ☏ +972 8 283 8100, fax: +972 8 283 8400, [email protected]. Massive rooms with a view of the sea, breakfast included. Most international journalists and NGOs stay at the Deira, which has a back-up generator, a business centre and WiFi. Pleasant (though by Gaza's standards not superb) restaurant (with Shisha pipes, although not allowed in the fine Oriental bedrooms). Don't be alarmed that the water tastes salty. Rooms include non-alcoholic minibar, hairdryer, towels, soap, shampoo, conditioner, and a little plate of cookies. $100–185USD/night. (updated Sep 2023) Commodore Hotel. Has a sauna, jacuzzi, massage, multiple restaurants, 24-hour room service, a swimming pool, and reportedly Kosher food. Grand Palace Hotel, Al Rasheed Street, ☏ +970 8 2849498, fax: +970 8 2849497, [email protected]. At the beach side of Gaza city, 3km from city centre, direct beach view, conference, food and beverage facilities. Marna House. Gaza's oldest hotel, run by a friendly family. 2 Al Mat'haf Hotel, [email protected] (Soudunya beach), ☏ +970 8 2858444. As a second phase, Al-Mathaf is just completed the construction of a boutique hotel, which will feature traditionally designed rooms with a sea view, as well as multi-purpose halls and facilities to provide business services, as well as health, fitness, and spa facilities. (updated Jul 2017) 3 Grand Chalet (جراند شاليه), +970 566 400 040. Luxury lodging by the sea. (updated Dec 2021)

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