Freetown

Understand

Freetown, like the rest of Sierra Leone, endured some very difficult times during the civil war. It was occupied by rebels twice and the resident population and infrastructure suffered badly. As stability returned, many Sierra Leoneans fled the rural areas to the city to escape the carnage. The country has been peaceful since 2002. The population of the city is much higher than it was prior to the war and has grown rapidly. This has put pressure on land and local services. Many areas of jungle have been cleared to house the new residents. Some blame the new developments for severe flooding of the city during the rainy season. Deforestation has also been blamed for a shortage of water in the city. Expensive gated residential developments have appeared in many parts of the city.

Climate Freetown has a tropical monsoon climate. Daytime highs normally averages around 30 °C (86 °F) and nighttime lows around 24 °C (75 °F) around the year. December to April is the driest time of the year, with hardly any rain. During that time of the year, the dry Harmattan wind blows from Sahara. From May to November, expect heavy rain, especially in July and August each with more than a metre of precipitation on average, and rainfall practically every day.

Getting there

By plane 1 Freetown International Airport (FNA IATA Lungi International Airport) (in Lungi, on the other side of the estuary from Freetown), ☏ +232 22 338405. A new airport terminal was opened in 2023. Departure procedures, which used to be very difficult, are not a problem any more. Airport facilities and experience compare favourably with other countries in the region and even Europe. There is a $25 fee for use of the airport when entering or leaving.

Getting from the airport to Freetown can be a challenge and the safety of the various operators has been questioned. There are a number of fast boat services that cross the estuary, and most foreign visitors use this option for US$50. There are sales offices as you leave the airport. Sea Coach Express operate boats from next to Mahera Hotel to the Aberdeen bridge for NLe1,080 (leones)). Sea Bird Express can take you to Murray Town and Sovereign Ferries to government wharf. Sea Coach Express or Sea Bird are convenient for most foreign travellers as they avoid the slow route through the crowded east end of Freetown. Construction of a bridge is expected to start during 2026. Another possibility is on the overloaded Government ferry which runs to the main part of Freetown. A seat on a bus which uses the ferry costs Le60,000. The bus takes passengers to Rawdon Street in the center of Freetown. This trip can take 3 hours or more, and has been known to take 8 hours. By road it is at least 4 hours to the city, via Port Loko. The ticket for Government ferry costs Le11,000. Finally, some private boats cross the estuary. This is not recommended at night. Because of possible thefts, especially when leaving the country, it is wise to carry anything of value in your cabin luggage. Having your checked baggage wrapped in cellophane at your point of origin is another good tactic.

By train Sierra Leone's public railway service was closed in 1974. A railway museum has been opened at Cline Town and is well worth a visit. Many of the original railway buildings and signs can still be seen in and around Freetown, particularly at Hill Station and Congo Cross. It used to be possible to walk along much of the track bed, starting near the Hill Station Club and dropping down the hill via Congo Cross into Freetown, but road construction has made the route hard to find.

By car Many roads in Freetown have been reconstructed and a bypass road has also been built to link the western part of Freetown to the rest of the country, cutting out the congested eastern part of town. The roads via Leicester and along the coastal p

Getting around

By taxi Local taxis run fixed routes and are shared rides. For the uninitiated, there is no real way to figure out where they are going, and they're busy making a living rather than trying to explain everything to foreigners. But they're so cheap (Le1,000), you can just hail one and see how long it takes you the right way before making a turn! Empty taxis will assume that foreigners want to charter a taxi (see below) and not share it. To let them know you prefer a shared ride, just declare "no cha cha" when you get on board. You can charter a taxi (cha cha) for a few hours, a day, or even days if one wishes. A decent price per hour is about US$5, for a day around US$50. Taxis can be hired for a complete journey, which really should not exceed the equivalent of US$4 for a trip within Freetown. The drivers do expect to be negotiated with, so don't be scared—be cheeky and negotiate! A very convincing bargaining tactic is to let the driver know that if he gives you a good price and you like his service, you will keep him on your speed dial for longer chartered rides. Having a trusted taxi driver on your phone shortlist is generally a very good idea for female travellers, anyway. 3 wheeled tuk-tuk type vehicles now fill the roads of Freetown, causing traffic chaos. Whilst a cheap form of transport their safety is very poor and are best avoided.

By poda-poda Poda-podas (minibuses) are a more miserable shared ride option, but are more straightforward for longer trips, as they display their start and end points on the front of the vehicle. If only you knew what those landmarks meant! "Lumley" will take you to Lumley Beach via the southern bridge, "Aberdeen" will take you to Aberdeen via the north bridge from Murray Town, "Eastern Police" will take you to the big clock tower at Kissy Road on the East Side (this is a good place to get dropped off to find a poda-poda to Waterloo). If you are looking for downtown, locals call it "Tong". However, if you feel this isn't the route for you, hotel taxis are usually available in much better condition; and they are regulated. These will also cost up to around US$10.

By rental car Car hire is possible and can normally be arranged through the hotels or local car dealerships. They will normally come with a driver. Journeys outside of Freetown in more rural areas often require a 4-wheel drive vehicle and will cost more, typically US$150 plus fuel per day, including driver. However, if you wish to mingle with the locals—which is encouraged, as it creates more social inclusion—you may be surprised. Local people can help

See

Many of Freetown's attractions are underdeveloped and not well publicised. The relatively low numbers of tourists visiting has meant there was not adequate incentive or financial reward for developing them. However, there are many hidden gems that can be well worth finding. It is not unusual to be the only visitor to some of them. A visit to the Aberdeen district will give a break from the busy city centre. It's a short drive from any part of Freetown by car or taxi. The roads are now very good, but watch the speed bumps on the beach road and Sir Samuel Lewis Road. There are small stalls along the beach road selling 'tourist' fare. There are some more modern shops on the beach road at various points. There are plenty of hawkers on the beach selling sunglasses, fruit, peanuts, clothes, etc. Just behind the Tourist Office is a good craft market and is much less hassle than Big Market. There are several colonial stilt houses at Hill Station. Most are in a poor state but offer insight into how Colonial Officials lived in the past. Downtown the old board houses are typical Krio architecture showing influence from the Caribbean. Wilkinson Road is home to many larger businesses and retail outlets. Also some of the more popular restaurants.

1 Cape Sierra Leone Lighthouse (At the end of the peninsular close to Barmoi Hotel. Head towards the radar tower.). The lighthouse was built in 1812 by the British. It is in good condition (it was refurbished in 2010). There are some stunning views of the Atlantic ocean. If you are lucky and can find someone, the local staff will show you around. 2 National Rail Museum, Cline Street. M-Sa 10:30AM-5PM. The Sierra Leone National Railway Museum is one of only two government-funded railway museums in the world, the other being in the UK. The museum has several steam and diesel locomotives and carriages, including one which was planned to be used by HM Queen Elizabeth II during her state visit. All have been restored. A guide will usually show visitors around. By donation. 3 Sierra Leone National Museum, Siaka Stevens St. See artefacts from the past including masks, relics from the war, local costumes - guided tours. Sierra Leone National museum has a repllica of the De Ruyter Stone. The original is buried at King Jimmy Market (it was discovered but reburied to protect it against vandalism and weathering). In 1664, in the Anglo-Dutch war vice admiral Ruyten made inscriptions in on the stone as he was raiding British posts along the coast. 4 Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary, ☏ +232-76-611211, [email protected]. Outside Freetown an

Do

1 Freetown Golf Club, Lumley Beach Road. A round of golf or tennis at the club just off the beach at Lumley. (updated Apr 2020) 2 Casino Leone, 72A Cape Road. Gamble at the Casino in Aberdeen. Also has a bar, spa and beauty salon. (updated Apr 2020) Search out the remains of the railway infrastructure, from Hill Station, via Congo Cross to the center of Freetown. Discover colonial warship wrecks by scuba diving or snorkeling at Banana Island and a bbq on Jonobo beach Sport fishing Charter a boat for some world class game fishing or join the amateur angler's short fishing trips from Banana Island's fishing lodges.

Buy

Local crafts are relatively expensive and little is unique to Sierra Leone (some items on offer not actually made here) except country cloth, gara (tie-dyed) cloth, batik pictures and wood carving. Freetown has always had a few supermarkets. Since 2020 many more large ones have appeared. There is a Choitrams in Adonkia on the peninsular road. If you feel the need for international fashion brands, they can be found western parts of Freetown.

Eat

Freetown has many high-quality restaurants, but very little in the tier below that. Being on the Atlantic coast, some excellent seafood is on offer. Barracuda, grouper, and lobster are readily available. Freetown has a large Lebanese community. Consequently, some very good Lebanese food is available at most restaurants. Following the opening of an ice-cream factory, ice cream cafés are becoming popular.

Budget Fresh peanuts called "Granite" (ground nuts) from the local sellers on Lumley beach and throughout Freetown.

Mid-range

1 Crown Bakery Restaurant, Wilberforce Street, Freetown Centre. The only "Western" restaurant on the city centre. 2 Crown Bakery Express, Wilkinson Road. Clean and modern sandwich bar. A good place for lunch, and has WiFi. 3 Diaspora, 2 Pricilla Street (off Shiaka Stevens). 4 Roy's Beach Bar, Lumley Beach Road (Kinston upon Hull Highway). Good food served on the beach road.

Splurge 5 Country Lodge Hotel Restaurant, ☏ +232 76 69000, fax: +232 22 235688. HS 51 Hill Station. Excellent views over the city, live jazz on Thursdays. The peppercrust stake is very good, Mongolian night every Friday 6 The Hub Restaurant (also does take-away pizza/delivery), 4 Regent Rd, ☏ +232 22 232872. Wilberforce. Fully air conditioned and very popular. Be careful not to get stuck in the car park. 7 Indochine Restaurant, 64 Sir Samuel Lewis Rd, ☏ +232 22 2733452. Aberdeen. Particularly good Chinese/Thai food in a smart air-conditioned restaurant. They have another restaurant in Conakry. 8 Mamba Point Restaurant at Lagoonda (Close to the Hilton Cape Sierra site). Refurbished to a high standard in 2015. The people behind this came from the Mamba Point at Wilberforce which is now the Hub. They brought the staff, great food and name with them. It is rated as one of the best restaurants in Freetown. Arrive early and sit on the terrace with the best view over Man o'war bay. They also have a smart air conditioned indoor section. The Lagoonda Casino is upstairs. (updated Aug 2016) 9 Gigibonta, Lumley Beach road. Italian style cakes and ice-cream in a new café. Expensive but very nice. Free wifi is available. (updated Aug 2017)

Drink & nightlife

Apart from the hotels and restaurants, there are many bars along the beach road. There are countless small bars along every street, often catering for just a handful of customers. A former "must-see" for any visitor was Paddy's on the road into Aberdeen which was renamed as Quincy's. This bar was famous and was the only place to be consistently open during the war. Sadly it no longer exists and has replaced with an apartment block. Star beer is available on tap in better bars. Also worthy of a visit is the Hill Station Club at Hill Station. This old gentleman's drinking club was looted during the war, but the building survived and the bar will be opened for visitors. If you are lucky you will be allowed to see the snooker room, where the tables appear untouched for many years and old champions' names are still on display.

1 Hill Station Club. Gentleman's club, dating from colonial times. In a much dilapidated state but the bar still serves beer. 2 Oasis, Murray Town Road (100 m down from Rokel Bank on the opposite side of the road. Drive down a track and it looks like a private house.). One of the few decent places to drink/eat in Murray Town. Good food, but most noteworthy for the excellent fruit smoothies. 3 Papaya, Family Kingdom, Aberdeen. Elevated bar which has replaced Angels Delight restaurant. Serves limited range of good food: kebabs and pizza. (updated Oct 2015) 4 Chapter One, 30 Lumley Beach Road. An impressive entertainment complex built on the site of the former Atlantic Restaurant, opposite the golf club. The modern complex houses a restaurant, nightclub and bar. If you want to go to one of their special events, you could pay $100 per person for entry. (updated May 2026)

Sleep

Freetown has some high standard hotels. All in the splurge section will offer air conditioned rooms with power available 24 hours per day. Hotels in the Aberdeen area are closest to Lumley beach. There are very few options in the main part of the town itself. During the busiest time of the year (December–March) it can be hard to find a room in the better hotels. Booking ahead is advised.

Budget 1 YMCA, 37 Fort street, ☏ +232 22-22-3608. Fan or A/c single/double rooms with breakfast. Le200 000-250 000-350 000. 2 Sweet Mother’s Guesthouse, Lumley Beach Road (new road), ☏ +232 79 193747. Complimentary breakfast included. Run-down place with security issues but it’s quiet, private and friendly with accommodating staff. US$25.00.

Mid-range 3 Lakka Beach Island Resort, ☏ +232 99 230968. An island resort, bungalows with en-suite, restaurant and bar.

Splurge 4 Radisson Blu Mammy Yoko Hotel, 17 Lumley Beach Road, ☏ +232 79454000, [email protected]. Refurbished to a very high standard. 5 Hilton Cape Sierra Hotel. Once the most well known hotel in Freetown. The redevelopment stopped during the pandemic but shows signs of restarting in 2026. (updated Jan 2024) 6 Leone Lodge, Lumley Beach Road (directly across the road from the beach). Popular with the mining companies, so can be difficult to get a room. Wireless internet works intermittently. Close to some of the beach bars/restaurants. US$150. 7 Bintumani Hotel, ☏ +232 88430068. 8 Hotel Barmoi, Aberdeen (Behind the old Cape Sierra Hotel site), ☏ +232-22-234933. Well run hotel with good views of the Atlantic Ocean and a nice small pool. Best rooms are in the lower block. Cheaper rooms in upper block have no view. Wireless internet is available and quite good. This is one of the most popular hotels in the country. Book ahead to be sure of a place. US$124-150. 9 Country Lodge Hotel, HS 51 Hillstation, ☏ +232 22 235589, fax: +232 22 235688. Hill Station. Well located and popular hotel overlooking Freetown. Has a pool, fitness room and good bar/restaurants. 10 Family Kingdom, ☏ +232 76777949. Across the road from the beach.

11 Golden Tulip Essential Kimbima (Kimbima Hotel), Bintumani Drive. Near Man o' War Bay, Aberdeen. Overlooking the Atlantic. Take the road to the Bintumani Hotel and turn right just before the hotel entrance. Refurbished and rebranded as Golden Tulip in 2016. (updated Jul 2016) 12 Lacs Villa. If you need to be in the Brookfileds/New England area then this is a good option. Also close to the government ministries in Youyi building. 13 The Hub Hotel (formerly Mamba Poin

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