Fez

Understand

Fez is the medieval capital of Morocco, and a great city of high Islamic civilization. Fez has the best-preserved old city in the Arab world, the sprawling, labyrinthine medina of Fes el-Bali, which is incidentally also the world's largest car-free urban zone. Transport of goods is provided by donkeys, carriages, and motorbikes. The city has just over 1 million inhabitants.

Getting there

By plane 1 Fès-Saïs International Airport (FEZ IATA) (15 km from the city), ☏ +212 5224-35858. It has a few cafes, ATMs and car rental agencies. There is a Maroc Telecom shop selling SIM cards. (updated Dec 2022) Destinations and carriers:

Air Arabia flies to/from Amsterdam, Brussels, Barcelona, several airports in France, as well as domestically to/from Agadir and Marrakech Royal Air Maroc offers daily flights from Casablanca and Paris-Orly to Fes-Saiss airport. Ryanair offers flights from Barcelona, Madrid, Seville, Alicante, Frankfurt (Hahn), Düsseldorf (Weeze), Milano (Bergamo), Pisa, Bologna, Rome (Ciampino), Charleroi (Brussels), Eindhoven, Marseille and London Stansted to Fez, though not on a daily basis. They also fly domestically to Agadir and Marrakech. Transavia flies from Paris-Orly, Lyon and Rotterdam/The Hague TUI Fly Belgium flies to Brussels. Getting there and away:

By bus – If you do not have too much luggage, you can take the #16 local bus; 4 dirham (as of Apr 2019) and 40-min ride. It goes from the airport to the main train station. The stop is about 100 m right and then 100 m left out of the airport, follow the road, you will see a bus sign. No timetable is available, but it goes about hourly between 06:00–23:00. Going from Fez to the airport, the bus stop is on the left of the entrance to the train station. The stop isn't marked, but look for a crowd of people with suitcases to the left of the train station. You can buy a ticket in advance at the cash desk at the bus stop. Allow plenty of time, as departures can be erratic. By shared taxi – From the bus stop at the airport this should cost 10–20 dirham (per person) depending on your negotiation skills (as of Apr 2019). Many taxis will stop if they see people waiting at the stop; just bargain hard. By taxi – If you are up for a local challenge after your journey, choose a taxi! There is a fixed price for a taxi: 120 dirham from the airport to the city (including the medina and the train station). There is a taxi stand directly outside. An usher will help you to get one, but make sure you confirm the price before you get in and best to only give the exact amount instead of waiting for change.

By train 2 Train Station Fès-Ville (northern end in the Ville-Nouvelle. a petit taxi between the train station and Bab Boujeloud costs about 20 dirham with taxi meter. Insist on using the meter, if necessary, say "khdm l-koontoor" (work the counter) to the taxi driver.). (updated Feb 2020) From specific destinations:

Trains operate almost hourly for much of the day on a line that travel

Getting around

Orientation The main street is the Talaa Kbira, which runs from Bab Boujeloud to the Kairouine mosque in the heart of the medina. The Talaa Sghira also begins at Bab Boujeloud and eventually merges back into the Talaa Kbira. Once you get into the narrow, winding heart of the medina, you can also find your way out again by constantly heading downhill, which will eventually lead to the Place R'cif, a dropoff for buses and taxis, where you can get a petit taxi out of the medina. For more detailed tours and directions, look for the book Fez from Bab to Bab (Hammad Berrada). It has a complete map of the medina and several well-described walking tours. It can be found in most bookshops, both on the Talaa Sghira or at the large bookstore on the Avenue Hassan II in the ville nouvelle. However, be discreet taking out your map or you will have many offers from false guides.

On foot Ignore the travel guides that tell you that you will get lost in the medina and that you must hire a guide. One of the easiest ways to get around is to use the red taxis to take you to the nearest gate (bab) and then walk from there until you get your bearings. Gates are all around the city and taxis are cheap. A rough map of where the sights are will help, and a GPS navigation app doesn't hurt either, although GPS readings are sometimes unreliable inside the medina. Be prepared for some wrong turns and confusion your first time in the medina. On the other hand, if you have a bad sense of direction, are particularly worried, or want to make sure you see all the main sights in the medina in a limited time, a guide can be a good way to make sure you won't get lost. If you do decide to hire one, be sure to arrange a licensed guide through your hotel or the tourism office. They will be able to give you an accurate history and will make fewer shopping stops. The faux-guides in particular will simply take you from shop to shop where you will be pressured to buy goods, which will cost you extra because the seller will be obliged to pay the guide a hidden commission. There are several well-marked trails through the city: follow the green (Andalusian palaces and gardens), orange (walls and fortifications), or blue signs and you will not get lost in all the narrow twisting streets.

By taxi Within Fez, a ride in the petits taxis (local taxis) rarely costs more than 15-20 dirham. However, the medina of Fes el-Bali is only accessible from a few points by car. Bab Boujeloud and nearby Place Batha are popular drop-off points, as is Place R'cif—for parking there is spaces at Ain Zleten on the n

See

1 The Tanneries (Quartier des tanneurs / Chouara Tannery). In the midst of the maze-like medina are the colorful leather-dying pits. Any number of young boys will offer to guide you to them: just listen for "you want to see the tanneries?" The tour is free (though it is appropriate to offer 1-5 dirham to your "guide").There is no chance of getting to see the tanneries by yourself, instead, be prepared for physical abuse for even trying! However, just 10 m left of the entrance is a leather shop that offers views to the tannery free of charge and you can see it all from the balcony. Expect to be pressured into buying goods from the shop in return.It is possible to get into the tannery itself, hang around near the entrance until someone offers to take you in for 10 dirham. He will get you past the entrance and then you can wander in among the workers. A word of advice: wear closed shoes and maybe bring a mint leaf to sniff if you have a weak stomach.The tanneries in the medina features leather-making techniques unchanged since the Middle Ages. Men walk the narrow paths between huge vats of lye and colorful dyes, water wheels creak as the leather is rinsed, and buildings facing the tannery are covered with pelts hanging to dry. Visit early in the morning before the sun hits the tannery and the stench sets in. Note that there is also Sidi Moussa Tannery in the medina, which is smaller and located about 700 m southeast of Chouara Tannery. 2 Bou Inania Madrasa. 09:00-18:00. A breathtaking 14th-century religious college. The best example of Islamic architecture a non-Muslim can see in Fez, with wooden walls elaborately carved with geometric patterns and Arabic calligraphy, and a beautiful minaret. In the courtyard there is a portico with a still-functioning mosque, separated by the rest of the courtyard by a small moat. 20 dirham. (updated Mar 2018) 3 Al Attarine Madrasa, ☏ +212 610-271328. 08:00-18:00. Another former religious college open to visit, much smaller but just as richly decorated as the Bou Inania Madrasa. Built by the Marinid sultan Uthman II Abu Said in 1323-5. 20 dirham. (updated Mar 2018) 4 Andalusian Mosque. Dates back to the inception of the city in the 9th century, with the completion of the foundation in 859-860. This makes it one of the oldest mosques in the world. The mosque had been renovated and expanded several times since then. Today, it is one of the relatively few remaining Idrisid-era establishments and the main landmarks of the city. Off-limits to non-Muslims. (updated Mar 2018) 5 Borj Nord. Tu-Su 09:00-12:00 and 14:00-18:00. One

Do

One of the most fascinating activities to do in Fez is a trip in the medina (Old City). The medina is so complex to navigate that sometimes it is easier to simply lose yourself in the hustle and bustle of the various markets, and find your way out once you have had enough of all the sights, sounds, and smells that will overwhelm your senses. You will eventually find your way out via lots of dried fruit, leather goods, ceramics, textiles and food stalls! Get a shave in the medina, nowhere is it cheaper than here, and they really pay attention, even trimming your hair. Make sure you find an opportunity to escape from the bustle of the streets and see the medina from one of its rooftops - some shops and restaurants have rooftop terraces (see the food section below for some useful tips). The views are particularly spectacular during sunset and after dark.

1 Sofitel Palais Jamai terrace. Terrace has an incredible view over the medina if you are willing to pay 30 dirham for a glass of tea in order to access it. This is particularly worthwhile if you can time your visit to coincide with the call to prayer, as you can hear multiple minarets from the terrace. Football: 2 Fez Stadium. This multi-use stadium is primarily used for soccer. Its two home teams are Maghreb (top tier) and Wydad de Fès (second tier). The stadium was opened in 2007 and has a capacity of 45,000. In 2025 / 26 it hosted matches in the Africa Cup of Nations. (updated Jan 2026)

Buy

Some may consider Fez to be the handicraft capital of Morocco, but in reality the quality and value of its wares can be hit and miss. Leathergoods, copper and brassware are the bargains, although you may also find good prices on drums and other musical instruments. As a rough guide, you can expect to pay:

Leather satchel: 200-400 dirham depending on quality Drums: 30-150 dirham depending on size and quality 10-20 dirham for a full size tagine dish, plus an extra 10 dirham if it's been glazed or decorated. If you are interested in the cobalt-blue ceramic, you might go to the potteries where they make it. It is interesting to see them shape the clay into a tagine in 45 seconds. From Bab el-Ftouh, it is a 5-dirham taxi trip. Ask the driver to take you to "Les potteries de Fez". There are 2 big "factories" which both show you the whole process if you want or you could just see the exhibition (and buy). Bargain really hard, prices seem to be fixed, but they are not. Bargaining is a way of life that has survived for centuries, and shows no sign of changing. Moroccans even bargain among each other for everything except perhaps their utilities. Don't believe anyone (and you will hear it all the time) who tells you prices are being "regulated". Every other souk claims to be a "Government Regulated Co-op". There is a single, genuine government-regulated fixed price shop in the Ville Nouvelle where all prices are posted, the goods are of decent (if not amazing) quality, and the single bored cashier will just stare incredulously at you if you attempt to bargain with him. Ask any hotel manager or petit taxi driver to take you to the "Artisana." All products sold in Artisanas come directly from the artists who made the products.

Zellige Backsplash Atelier (Zellijart), Fez Medina (near the potting and clay districts), ☏ +1 929-563-6620, [email protected]. 09:00-18:00. A specialized workshop dedicated to authentic Moroccan zellige. Visitors can observe the traditional "Menqach" hand-chiseling process used for high-impact kitchen and bath backsplashes. They produce hand-glazed tiles from local Atlas clay. (updated Jan 2026)

Eat

The markets near the 'main' gate of Bab Boujeloud (near to Hotel Cascades) are full of yummy food. It is worth just wandering through them, buying random bits of food. Street food is very cheap and is often safe. Restaurants, even cheap ones, will often be up to twice the cost of street food, and the quality can be the same. In the medina it is difficult to find cheap food other than in the Bab Boujeloud area. There are only a very few tourist restaurants where you will get ripped off and some food stalls down in the food market near the R'cif place.

Budget 1 Bouanania, Rue Talaa Kebira (near Bab Boujloud). Enjoy lunch on the terrace or a leisurely dinner on the carpet-adorned second floor. The service is very friendly and more than willing to fire up the grill to make you the first brochettes of the day. Tagine, couscous, and other staples are well-done. around 40 dirham, but prices are negotiable down to 25 dirham.. (updated May 2022) 2 La Kasbah de Fes, Rue Serrajine (near Bab Boujloud). Friendly service, a solid selection of inexpensive Moroccan staples (excellent vegetarian tagine) and a couple of lovely high terraces overlooking the Gate on one side and the medina on the other. It is a comfortable atmospheric place to chat to other travellers and it's a welcome haven from the bustle of the crowded streets of the medina. Street food is allowed to eat at the terraces. You pay only the service for the drink. (updated May 2022) 3 Medina cafe, 6 Rue Mernissi (near Bab Boujloud). Tasty and cosy café-style restaurant, however it can get too touristy. Food is fine, specially the "boricuas" (deep fried thin dough layers wrapping meat-chicken-rice fillings). Mains starting at 60 dirham. (updated Sep 2022) Maison Fassi, Bab Lahdid Douh Am, 2 Rue Ahmed Mekouar, ☏ +212663643210. 7AM-11PM. Great place for traditional Moroccan food. Owner speaks French and English. 50–100 MAD. (updated Apr 2026)

Mid-range 4 Mezzanine, 1 Ave Moulay Hassan (in front of the Jnaj Sbil Garden, less than 50 m from the place Boujeloud), ☏ +212 11078336, [email protected]. Set over three floors, with an additional outside patio, Mezzanine offers both a cosy lounge bar for a quiet cocktail tapas as well as a comfortable larger seating area for dinners and parties. (updated Apr 2022) 5 Cafe Clock, 7 Derb el Magana، Rue Talaa Kebira (in the old medina, near Bab Boujloud). Magnificently restored house turned into a cafe. The people are friendly (and speak English) and the food is excellent. Ask to be seated on the terrace, and listen for the call to prayer coming from several minarets

Drink & nightlife

Almost all drinking establishments in Fez are hotel bars. The rest are local bars that women and anyone without a good command of Arabic might be uncomfortable entering. In bars of either type, prostitutes are frequent but mostly ignore western travellers. Fes is a much more traditional town than Casablanca or Marrakesh, and it is illegal to drink in public. Purchasing alcohol or seeming intoxicated are sure to draw stern looks from passersby.

1 The Bar at Hotel Batha, Place Batha. In the rear of Hotel Batha are two bars - the first is more of a lounge, with comfortable leather chairs and fireplaces. It is definitely the more stately of the two options. In the rear is a night-club type bar that is mostly empty and rarely open. Restaurant International (the car park at Av. Abdellah Chefchawni). This little place is easy to overlook, but the fact that the outer windows are mirrored should be the first indication it will not be at the top of any tourist routes. The crowd here is all local, and foreigners might expect a few stares and side looks. They serve the basic selection of beer, as well as some of the best spaghetti and pizza in town. Three stories, but avoid the middle one - the band is usually blasting bad synthesizer-Arabic music. Also avoid the basement, unless you are looking for prostitutes. 2 The White Souk / Marché Centrale (on Blvd Mohammed V). A good place to find alcohol if you prefer to drink at home. There are two brick-and-mortar liquor stores on either side of the Souk, and many of the vendors inside keep discreet stashes for thirsty foreigners. 3 Mezzanine. Set over three floors, with an additional outside patio, Mezzanine offers both a cosy lounge bar for a quiet cocktail tapas as well as a comfortable larger seating area for dinners and parties. Fully wifi d, Mezzanine transforms from a day time lounge into one of Fez most cosmopolitan dinner, music and venues with its resident DJ. Open from 12:00 until 02:00 non stop. Enjoy a cocktail, beer or wine on the terrace. It is really unique L'Alcazar Bar, Riad Fes, 5 Derb Ben Slimane Zerbtana. Stylish lounge bar and fumoir feature cocktails, spirits, wines, and a selection of cigars. La Cave at the Centre Commercial Borj Fes. Take a taxi to the Borj shopping centre. Tucked into a small, easily ignored corner near the Carrefour is a small bottle shop called La Cave with a good selection of beer and wine at decent prices.

Sleep

Most visitors to Fez will want to stay in the Fez El Bali (Old Fez, or Medina) as the main tourist sights are located there and where many local residences operate as guesthouses. Also, the new town is quite a distance from the medina, so you will be relying on taxis to take you in and out every day.

Budget Camping Diamant Vert, Rue Ain Chkef. Decent amount of shade, French toilets and (sometimes warm) showers 25 dirham a person, 15 dirham per tent. Free access to the swimming pool.. HI youth hostel (Albergue Juvenil), 18 Rue Abdeslam Serghini, ☏ +212 035 624085. Clean, bright, friendly and well placed in the ville nouvelle. Unfortunately there is a debilitating 10PM curfew and a five hour lockout Dorms/twins with shared bath from 45/55 dirham, plus 5 dirham surcharge for non HI members.. Hotel Cascades, 26 rue Serrajine (near Bab Boud Jeloud - main gate in the Medina), ☏ +212 35 638 442. The owner is hospitable and the rooms are clean, noisy and simple. Shared bathrooms on the first and second floor, free hot shower on the first. In the same price-range as the youth hostel with a better location (with views on the Bab Boulejoud and over the medina) and no lockout, and therefore attracting a clientele of young backpackers and solo tourists looking for travel companions. Staying on the roof-terrace which also has a restaurant (breakfast 25 dirham, mains 50 dirham) is cheap, although could be the 05:00 calls to prayer waking you up, 06:00 light and summer midday-heat. single 70 dirham, double 160 dirham, bed on roof terrace 40 dirham, breakfast 25 dirham. There are a few more hostels near the main gate walking down any of the two parallel main streets, but not many of them. Try to arrive well before dark. The streets beyond the two main ones can be frightening at night. Hotel Rex, 32 Machra bel Ksiri (apparently near place Atlas but not easily found), ☏ +212 035642133. 100 dirham. Hôtel Royal Urban Concept, 36 Rue du Soudan, ☏ +212 5356 24656. Big rooms, slightly antique feeling, hot water only in the morning. 378 dirham. Hotel Volubilis, 42 Abdellah Chefchaouni, ☏ +212 035 620463. Bed bathrooms (cold shower, just over the toilet). 80 dirham for a double, 120 dirham for apartments for 3-4 people. Dar Bouânania. Riad-style, wonderfully decorated rooms, nice roof-terrace, wifi and very welcoming staff. double 250-400 dirham. 1 Riad-Boutique Borj Dhab Fez, 10, Derb Borj Dhab, Qalqliyine, R'cif Médina,, ☏ +212 5356 34477. Spa, free breakfast, wifi. Lots of Moroccan decor. 332 dirham. (updated Sep 2020) 2 Dar Nour Fes, ☏ +212 675-369377. Delic

Go next

A visit to the ancient Roman site of Volubilis is a must. This crumbling yet spectacular city has stunning mosaics on offer, and you can easily spend a couple of hours ambling through the ruins. Casablanca Chefchaouen Marrakech - You can take a desert tour which begins in Fez and ends in Marrakech. Meknes – Worth a visit, if only due to its calmer and less crowded medina, which has ample shopping opportunities. Rabat Tangier