East Jerusalem

Understand

The ancient city of Jerusalem was in today's East Jerusalem. The city began in a small area now known as the "City of David", just south of the current Old City walls, which were built by the Ottoman Turks in 1538. When Jerusalem began to spread outside the Old City in the late 19th century, Jews mostly settled west of the Old City while Arabs mostly settled to the north and south. The 1948 war left Jerusalem divided, with the western neighborhoods under Jewish control, while the Old City and eastern neighborhoods were under Arab control. This forms the basis for the current division between "East" and "West" Jerusalem. In 1967, after capturing East Jerusalem, Israel decided to annex a large area surrounding the city, to provide room for the city's future growth. This large area included what were the Arab parts of Jerusalem at the time, as well as a number of nearby Arab villages, as well as non-inhabited land. Since 1967, the villages have grown into large suburbs, while new Jewish neighborhoods have been built. During this time, East Jerusalem's population of 66,000 Arabs has grown to a total of approximately 260,000 Arabs and 200,000 Jews. East Jerusalem is also the location of the first campus of the Hebrew University on Mt Scopus, established in 1925. From 1948 to 1967, the campus was an enclave of Israeli control in East Jerusalem, but did not function as a university. After 1967, the university was re-established on the site. East Jerusalem remains a major point of contention in Arab-Israeli relations, as Israel has annexed it, but Palestinians claim it as their capital. Peace negotiations typically envision Jewish and Arab neighborhoods in East Jerusalem becoming part of Israel and a Palestinian state respectively. The status of the Temple Mount/Noble Sanctuary in the Old City has been harder to negotiate, as both sides have deep theological and historic links to the same location. With the exception of the United States, most foreign countries do not formally recognise East Jerusalem as part of Israel. There has been periodic violence between Arabs and Jews in East Jerusalem (and on the boundary between the East and West), including the 2015–2016 "Intifada of the Knives".

Getting there

By bus East Jerusalem has three central stations for Arab urban and intercity buses. All are close to each other, just north of the Old City. Listed in geographical order, from west to east:

1 HaNeviim station. Buses to Bethlehem, Hebron, and southern Arab neighborhoods of Jerusalem. Adjacent to the Damascus Gate light rail station. 2 Nablus Road station. Buses to Ramallah and northern Arab neighborhoods of Jerusalem 3 Sultan Suleiman station. Buses to Bethany, Jericho, and eastern Arab neighborhoods of Jerusalem Here the stations are named after the street they are on. If you are asking for directions, it may be more useful to tell people your bus destination. For a listing of routes and destinations, see cicts.org. Shared taxis to Ramallah, Bethlehem and Hebron also leave from here. If coming from West Jerusalem, bus lines 1 and 3 leave from the central bus station on Jaffa Street and circle around the old city, with stops near the old city gates and major sites of East Jerusalem in the vicinity of the Old City. Bus number 84 leaves from the Ammunition Hill light rail stop and will take you to the top of the Mount of Olives.

By light rail Coming from West Jerusalem, the light rail enters East Jerusalem, stopping first at Damascus Gate next to the Old City. It then turns north, paralleling the boundary between East and West Jerusalem, before continuing north into additional East Jerusalem neighborhoods. Depending on the sites you want to visit, there are several stops you may want to get off at:

4 City Hall - this is the last stop in West Jerusalem, and it is the closest stop to Mount Zion and the City of David. The 5 Damascus Gate light rail station is near the transportation hub of East Jerusalem outside the Damascus Gate. Use this stop for the Garden Tomb and Rockefeller Archaeological Museum. 6 Shivtei Israel - for Tombs of the Kings and several hotels, including Grand Court and American Colony. 7 Ammunition Hill (Giv'at Hatahmoshet) for Ammunition Hill Memorial Site, Dan Jerusalem Hotel, and bus 84 to the Mount of Olives.

On foot Most sights within East Jerusalem are close to the Old City, allowing them to be explored on foot.

Getting around

Close to the Old City, the streets are limited and crowded, and you are best off walking. If you are visiting the Mount of Olives, keep in mind that it is quite steep. You might want to take a very short cab ride to the top to save you the climbing, particularly in hot weather. It should be easy to flag down a cab near the Old City. For the few East Jerusalem sites that are far from the Old City, there are buses (separate but overlapping Jewish and Arab networks), as well as the light rail line.

See

Mount Zion

This hill is located next to the Old City, just south of the Armenian Quarter. It was the only part of ancient Jerusalem that was under Israeli control in 1948–1967. "Zion" is an old name for Jerusalem. "Mount Zion" received its name in the Middle Ages, when it was thought that the original location of Jerusalem was on this hill. However, the original location is now known to be the "City of David", and the present Temple Mount is the biblical Mount Zion. Zionism, the movement to return the Jews to the Holy Land, takes its name from Mount Zion, where the Jews had made their stand against the Roman Empire before being conquered and exiled from the area.

1 Church of the Dormition. M–Th 09:00–12:00 and 12:30–18:00; F 09:00–12:00 and 14:00–18:00; Su 10:30–18:00. Adorned by a conical dome and a tall bell tower, this Mount Zion church is the traditional site of the Virgin Mary's death. Several churches have been built on the site. The present-day structure was built in the early 20th century for the visit of Kaiser Wilhelm II. The main part of the church contains a mosaic floor featuring the signs of the zodiac and the names of various saints and prophets. A statue of the Virgin Mary rests in the crypt surrounded by images of various women listed in the Old Testament. Free. 2 King David's Tomb. Summer: Sa–Th 08:00–20:00, F 08:00–14:00. Winter: Su–Th 08:00–sunset, F 08:00–13:00. Adjoining the Church of the Dormition and located on the lower floor of the Crusader building is a small chamber venerated as King David's Tomb. The chamber—divided for separate viewing by men and women—contains a sarcophagus covered by a drape. From 1948-1967, when the Old City was under Jordanian control and there was no access to the Western Wall, Jews would come here to pray. Today the entrance hall is still used as a synagogue. Free. 3 Last Supper Room (Cenacle). 08:00–18:00 daily. A room in the David's Tomb Compound, traditionally held to be the site of the Last Supper. Free. 4 Chamber of the Holocaust, ☏ +972 2-6716841, fax: +972 2-6717116. Su–Th 08:00–17:00, F 08:00–13:00. Located directly opposite the Tomb of David on Mount Zion, this small museum is maintained by the Diaspora Yeshiva. The collection includes Holocaust artifacts, artwork inspired by the Holocaust, an exhibit of anti-Semitic publications throughout history, and memorials to individuals and communities that perished. It differs from Yad Vashem in that it puts the Holocaust in more of a Jewish-religious context. ₪12. 5 Schindler's Tomb. Hours are not set and more often than not, the gate to the

Do

1 Temple Mount Sifting Project, Tzurim Valley National Park (Enter from Derech E-Tur Shmuel Ben Adaya), ☏ +972 2-6280342. 09:00-17:00. Participate in salvaging antiquities from debris that was dumped out of the Temple Mount during construction by Muslim authorities there. The basic program is two hours long. At the beginning, you get instructions on how to sift through the archaeological debris. At the end, the guide explains the significance of the artifacts that each of the participants have found. (Since April 2017, the debris is from the City of David, not from the Temple Mount, but this might change in the future.) ₪15. 2 Brigham Young University Jerusalem Center for Near Eastern Studies, Mt. Scopus, near Augusta Victoria Hospital and Tzurim Valley National Park, ☏ +972-2-626-5666, [email protected]. Free tours of the campus, and free evening concerts. (updated Aug 2025) 3 Givat HaArbaa Hill (Along Hebron Rd, close to St. Elias Monastery.). Overlooking Bethlehem, this hill is a popular destination for hiking. There are remains ruins scattered around the hill, including parts of the old Roman aqueduct that brought water to Jerusalem. (updated Aug 2023)

Eat

Kan Zman Jerusalem Hotel, Nablus Road, ☏ +972 2 6283282. 07:00–00:00. Middle Eastern specialities plus pasta and salads. Not kosher. Main courses start at about ₪30, and there are ₪50 buffets on Thursday and Saturday nights. American Colony Hotel, One Louis Vincent St., ☏ +972 2 6279777. 12:00–15:00 and 19:00-23:45. French and Middle Eastern cuisine. Reservations advised. Not kosher. Three-course meals from $25. Shababeek Restaurant, 7 Shimon Hatsidik St (Sheek Jarah), ☏ +972 2 5322626. 12:00-23:00. Lovely old style restaurant serving selected Mediterranean food.

Drink & nightlife

Gossip. Great Palestinian beer, nice atmosphere, and their Gossip Special Argila (shisha) is amazing.

Sleep

Most, but not all, East Jerusalem hotels are located a short walk north of the Old City.

Budget 1 Palm Hostel (Close to the Damascus Gate), ☏ +972 2-627-3189. Not the best ones around, but ok for the price. Dorm bed from ₪60. 2 Ramsis Hostel ([email protected]), 20 Haneviim St (outside Damascus gate), ☏ +972 2 627-1651. No curfew. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 10:00. Very friendly. Located in a historic building on the border between East and West Jerusalem, with the West Jerusalem bars a 5-minute walk away. Wireless internet included in price. The Owner and manager is Mike Mushasha, a very friendly and experienced man who speaks fluent English, Hebrew, and Romanian. dormbed US$10, private $15, free tea or coffee.

Mid-range 3 Capitol Hotel, Salah Eddin St. 54 guest rooms. From US$99. 4 Mount of Olives Hotel, 53 Mount of Olives Rd, fax: +972 2 626-4427, [email protected]. Affordable family-run hotel situated at the summit of the Mount of Olives, next door to the Chapel of Ascension. Surrounded by famous churches and holy sites. Commands a dramatic view of the Old City and the Dome of the Rock. Accessible by bus #75 from Damascus Gate. From US$59 for a single in low season to US$148 for a triple in peak season (2015/16 prices). 5 Jerusalem Hotel, Nablus Rd, ☏ +972 2 6283282, fax: +972 2 6283282, [email protected]. 6 Jerusalem Panorama, Ras el-Amud St (Hill of Gethsemane), ☏ +972 2 6284887, fax: +972 2 6273699. This hotel offers good service and facilities for the price. Most rooms are air conditioned and children's facilities are available. Rooms offer fine views but those overlooking the street can be noisy. This area is not serviced well by public transportation. ₪448-784. 7 Seven Arches, Main Rd (Mount of Olives near the Church of the Paternoster), ☏ +972 2 626 7777, fax: +972 2 627 1319. This large, modern hotel is on the summit of the Mount of Olives and offers spectacular views. ₪448-784. 8 Tantur Hills Hotel (Along Rd 60, just north of checkpoint with Bethlehem), ☏ +972 2 565 8800. (updated Nov 2023)

Splurge 9 American Colony Hotel, 1 Louis Vincent St, ☏ +972 2-627-9777, [email protected]. Luxury, historic boutique hotel in East Jerusalem. Popular with visiting dignitaries and diplomats. Has 86 unique rooms and suites, outdoor pool, spa treatments, breakfast buffet, free internet access and complimentary parking. (updated Aug 2020) 10 Dan Jerusalem Hotel, 32 Lehi St, 97856, ☏ +972 3-5202552, [email protected]. Designed around a series of central patios, this hotel sits on the slopes of Mount Scopus, overlooking the skyl