Dushanbe

Understand

Dushanbe, sitting at about 800 m in the Hisor Valley basin at the confluence of the Varzob and Kofarnihon Rivers, is the main population center of the country with about 1.2 million people in 2022. It has seen instances of human habitation since neolithic times, witnessing the presence of great civilizations like the Greco-Bactrians and the many iterations of the Persian Empire. Dushanbe began life as a small nondescript village existing simply as a place to host a weekly Monday market (indeed Dushanbe is Tajik for "Monday"), but received a whirlwind of development when it was chosen to be the capital of the Tajik ASSR (Associated Soviet Socialist Republic), which was an autonomous region of the larger Uzbek SSR during the Soviet Union. In the 1930s, the Tajik ASSR was carved away from the Uzbek one and made equal, and Dushanbe now found itself one of the 15 main capitals within the Soviet Union. During most of the Soviet Union, Dushanbe was known as Stalinabad. With the withdrawal of Soviet influence in the dissolution of the USSR, Dushanbe regained its former name but went through schisms of identity crisis alongside the country as it plunged into a civil war that lasted from 1992 - 1997. Even now, it struggles somewhat to exert full control over the entire country, but it nonetheless takes on the dynamics of Tajikistan's main commercial center and happening place. Dushanbe's central location in Tajikistan makes it a perfect launchpad for excursions across the country.

Getting there

By plane 1 Dushanbe Airport (DYU IATA, Международный Аэропорт Душанбе), M. Mastangulova (ул.им.М. Мастангулова), 32/2 (SW of city center), ☏ +992 37 4494233, fax: +992 37 2278717, [email protected]. Moscow flights by (Tajik Air, Somon Air, Domodedovo Airlines and Sibirian S7), Istanbul IST on (Turkish Airlines); Urumqi (China Southern Airlines). Somon Air have a weekly direct flight to Frankfurt, as well as flights from Dubai, Delhi, Istanbul and Kyiv. It is a hub for Somon Air and Tajik Air. There is a thrice-weekly flight connecting the cities of Dushanbe and Khujand in the north on Somon Air. In the winter and early spring, when the mountain passes between the cities are closed, this is the only realistic option to get between northern and southern Tajikistan. There are also weekly flights to/from Tashkent and Almaty, providing an option for travelers who are coming directly from another Central Asian nation. Pre-2021, there were direct flights between Dushanbe and Bishkek, but with the advent of the Tajik-Kyrgyz border conflict and the closure of the borders between the two nations, those flights have been suspended.

Luggage If you are flying to Dushanbe from anywhere beyond Türkiye, Dubai, or Kazakhstan, you'll need to make sure your bags are checked all the way through. If all of your flights are on the same airline, you shouldn't have to worry about anything. But if your connecting flights involve switching airlines as well (which may be the case if you're traveling from the western hemisphere), there's a high likelihood that you'll need to go through customs and retrieve your bags during your connection and re-check them through.

Visa at the airport Most of the European and North American nationals can apply for a visa upon arrival in Dushanbe. The airport is very small and the immigration is before the passport control. Bring 2 passport photos, and have the address at which you are staying. Don't lose your "beeline travel slip" which you will get at the immigration office. The luggage X-ray machines are very poor and they pay little attention to the screens. For travelers traveling for non-tourist reasons (like work or study) you'll need to get a visa in advance from an embassy. Before you go through Tajik customs, all travelers should fill out a migration card (available by the visa office). This form comes in parts A and B, and you must keep the B part with you until you leave the country. Officially, the migration card is not needed anymore and indeed is not given at any of the land borders, but that hasn't stopped corrupt border guar

Getting around

By bus Riding the bus in Dushanbe is an adventure in and of itself. For starters, there are no published or otherwise available bus route maps or timetables. Locals have been there long enough to know which bus(es) they need to take where, but travelers will often have to guess. Luckily, most of the tourist sites and buses are along Rudaki Avenue and Somoni Avenue, and Google Maps works well enough in the city that you'll be fine if you just follow along the map as you ride the bus and get off at a stop near where you need to be. Yandex Maps does have bus stop and route information (tap on the stops to view) which are useful for planning journeys. Officially, buses only take payment by city bus cards which can be purchased at kiosks near the stations (whether or not the kiosks are working is another story), however in practice most bus drivers accept cash payments too. It costs С2.5 per person per ride (С1.8 if paying with card); drivers may or may not give change depending on if they have it/want to). Buses are clean and modern and so are the bus stops. There are also unofficial "buses" that run. These are private cars that drive in the rightmost lane and will flash a card with the route number they run at people waiting on the curb. While it's an open secret that these cars exist, the drivers can get in trouble if caught by the police (the passengers, however, will not). Despite their sketchy nature, these vehicles are safe to use and get the job done, but it's still recommended to take official transportation in case issues arise.

By marshrukta It is very useful to figure out the marshrukta system (private cars and minibuses), which run on a standard set of routes. Minibuses are overcrowded, stop more frequently, and cost С2.50, while private cars are much quicker and cost С7. For marshrukti, the only important phrase is "hamin jo" (ha-MEEN JOH), which means "right here", to indicate that you want to get out. A couple of useful 'lines' (2010): No. 1: Giprozem (south) - Sakovat Bazaar - Circus - War Memorial - Aini Street - Dushanbe Airport No. 2: Giprozem - Sakovat Bazaar - Circus - War Memorial - Bokhtar Street (centre) No. 3: Dushanbe I Train Station - Rudaki Avenue - Vodanasos Bazaar (north) No. 8: Dushanbe Airport - Ayni Street - Rudaki Avenue - Ismoil Somoni Street - 102nd microdistrict (west) No. 17: 82nd microdistrict - Ismoil Somoni Street - Rudaki Avenue - Vodanasos Bazaar No. 29: Giprozem - Circus - Bus Station - 82nd microdistrict - Ismoil Somoni Street - Barakat Bazaar (centre)

By trolleybus Cheap way of getting around the city.

See

Holy places 1 Haji Yaqub Mosque (Мечеть Хаджи Якуб), Rudaki Ave. The largest mosque in the CIS cost of US$100 million. It has a crescent-topped minaret and burnished golden dome. Sari Osiyo Mosque (Мечеть Сари Осиё). A new one 2 Ismaili Centre (Центр Исмаилизма), Ismoil Somoni Ave,. 3 St. Nicholas Cathedral (Свято-Никольский собор), Druzhby Narodov St (улица Дружбы народов)), ~64 (Central city cemetery or commonly Russian Cemetery (Центральный Городский кладбище, русский кладбище)). The main Eastern Orthodox church of Dushanbe. (updated Nov 2023)

Museums 4 Gurminj Museum of Musical Instruments (Gurminj Museum, Музей музыкальных инструментов), Bokhtar Street, 23 (Located in the center of Dushanbe, a block east of Rudaki near the Iranian Embassy), ☏ +992 372 2231076, +992 92 805 9515, [email protected]. Daily 11:00-18:00. This small museum has an interesting variety of Central Asian musical instruments as string instruments example: rubab, Pamiri rubab, tanbur, dutor, setor, qashqar, and ghizhak. There are also number of drums such as tabl, daf, and doyra. That alone is worth a peek if you like instruments, but better still is to go when a musical or cultural event is being held, or hope to catch the folk musicians who practice there and can demo many of the instruments in the collection. Admission С10. 5 National Museum of Tajikistan (Национальный музей древности Республики Таджикистан) (on the main square near the Sadbarg shopping center). This museum offers four floors detailing the history of what is now Tajikistan, primarily through art. The basement covers prehistory, including the geology of the country, while human history starts on the ground floor and increases chronologically as you ascend to the next floors. The ground floor is home to the crown jewel of the museum, the giant Buddha in Nirvana statue found in Ajina-tepe, as well as numerous historical artefacts from each empire to have set foot in the country. The upper floors detail Tajikistan's history post-Russian conquest, while the final floor is a gallery of paintings and sculptures made during the Soviet era, including a display of Soviet films filmed in Tajikistan. 35 somoni per person, more if you want to pay for photos. (updated Aug 2023)

Others 6 Monument of Amir Ismail Samani (Tajik:Ҳайкали Исмоили Сомонӣ, Russian: Арка и памятник Исмаилу Самани.), Prospekt Aiani (At the south rim of Rudaki Park). A monument to the 10th-century founder of the Samanid dynasty. This statue commemorates the one after whom the currency is named. Apparently, the crown is 10 kg of Taj

Do

1 Aquapark Dolphin (Аквапарк Дельфин), Bogoutdinova (Богоутдинова), 7/2 (West of City center. Take bus 8, 22, 25, 28,17 to '101 mikrorayon', after Saodat Shopping Centre the next street turn toward south (left) and walk ten mins on the right side look for it), ☏ +992 48 702 0020. Adult/child M-F С70/40, Sa Su С80/40 (four hours); after 17:00 (three hours) С50/30; Tariff "VIP" admission to all areas. From sunrise to sunset. Adult С150. (updated Jul 2014) Bactria Cultural Center 2 Circus (Здание цирка), Karaboev Avenue, 1-3 (Ave. S. Sherozi corner).

Parks 3 Botanical Gardens (Ботанический сад Академии наук Таджикистана) (behind the Chinese Embassy, somewhat north along Rudaki turn left to Samad Gani St). The best place to escape the dust and noise of the traffic for peace and quiet. A small forest with plenty of greenery. Usually the newly married couples have photos taken here. 4 Dushanbe Zoo (Dushanbe Zoological Park, Tajik: Боғи ҳайвонот, Russian: Душанбинский зоопарк), Ismoili Somoni Avenue (in the centre of the city on the Luchob river bank, next to the Pamir Stadium). The number of animals kept is about 600 on the area: 67000 m². This is the only institution of this kind in the country. Animals are indigenous and foreign species, with the most exotic being lion, jaguar and snow leopard. The local fauna are represented by brown bears, black bears, Bactrian camel, donkey, wolf, jackal, fox, raccoon, and some birds such as owl, vulture, golden eagle, falcon. Also some reptiles, including snakes, caymans, lizards are displayed indoors. 5 Park named after S. Ayni (Парк культуры и отдыха имени С. Айни,Tajik:Боғи фароғат ва истироҳати ба номи С. Айнӣ) (Around Opera). 6 Victory Park (Парк Победы,Tajik:), Druzhby Narodov St (Turn left off of Rudaki at the TSUM and pass the beer factory.). Hike to the top for a seasonal tiki-themed beer garden offering views of the city. The truly brave can take the rickety gondola. Also there is the Victory Memorial.

Theaters 7 Ayni Opera and Ballet Theatre (Таджикский академический театр оперы и балета имени С. Айни), Nisor Muhammad St and Rudaki Ave cnr (Centre), ☏ +992 37 2213494. Tu-Su 09:00-12:00, 13:00-17:00. Regularly has free or cheap concerts sponsored by embassies and travel companies. 8 Lahuti Drama Theatre (Таджикский академический драматический театр имени А. Лахути), Rudaki Ave,. Mayakovsky Theatre Padida Theatre 9 Puppet theatre (Государственный театр кукол Лухтак). 10 Parasty Theatre, Rudaki Ave, (Next to Lohuti Drama Theatr). Summer theatre (летних амфитеатра). 11 Youth Theatre named a

Buy

1 Korvon Bazaar, A384 road (far away and is very large (Marshruktas with "Корвон" signs on their dashboards will get you there for С3); south of Park Druzhby). Korvon has a massive indoor clothing and shoes section as well as a smaller food section. It is also the place for rugs, although all of the rugs come from Turkey, not Tajikistan. Somewhat cheaper than Shakhmansur. 2 Shakhmansur Bazaar (Green Bazaar, Зелёный Базар), Lohuti Street (east of Opera). This is the biggest bazaar in the city centre and has a huge variety of foods (very cheap by Western standards), including dried fruit, nuts, fresh fruits and vegetables, spices, meats and bread, as well as an odd assortment of tools and household products. It is possible to see the entire bazaar in an hour or two. The locals invariably charge foreigners more.

Eat

1 Cafe Merve, 92 Rudaki Avenue (Next to Orima supermarket). Casual Turkish cafeteria is always packed with students and young locals. Kebabs, pizzaa, salads, french fries, cakes, coffee and authentic Turkish breakfasts (feta with olives) are all on the menu, but have several choices in mind, as they rarely have everything available at any given time. Delhi Darbar, Rudaki Avenue (near the Pedagogical Institute.). The most well-known, and possibly the best vegetarian food in the city, of three local Indian restaurants serves excellent butter chicken and spinach. It also offers private "family rooms." Salsa. The only Ecuadorian restaurant for hundreds of miles. It is a reasonable imitation of Latin cuisine and popular with Europeans. It is located just off the north end of Rudaki near Starry Night (Zvezdnaya Noch) billiards. 2 Tiflis. One of two Georgian restaurants in the city with some of the best meat dishes in the city, and a substantial wine list. Located behind the opera-ballet, across the park. Gruzinski Restorant "Kafene Gruziya", Rudaki Avenue 29. the other Georgian restaurant, located about a block north of the Opera Square on Rudaki Avenue. It has simple and tasty dishes, good cheap house wine, and a nice friendly atmosphere. Either book or come early due to its popularity. 3 Steakhouse (The Steakhouse). Despite the name, it is one of the only places in Dushanbe to get sushi. Other meals include steaks, pasta and American style cuisine. Live entertainment nightly. Segafredo, Rudaki Ave (near the corner of Rudaki Ave and Ismoil Somoni Ave, across from Hotel Tajikistan). Western food: sandwiches, soups, chicken dishes. Good place to get coffee or a snack. The salmon is surprisingly good and fresh. Downside: smokers. You will see many foreigners here.

Drink & nightlife

While drinking alcohol openly isn't strictly allowed, you'd never know and the outdoor beer cafes are some of the nicest places to spend a sunny afternoon; priced at 4-5 somoni per beer, they are also some of the cheapest. You'll always be able to find "zakuskas" here, snacks to have alongside beer. Plaited smoked cheese, "kasichky" ("chechil") and small pieces of battered fish are popular, as is "kurut", hard salty balls of parmesan-like cheese.

1 Best Bar City, Shohtemur Street 22 (inside Hotel Tajikistan), ☏ +992 90 124 8505. Cozy atmosphere. (updated May 2022) 2 28 Monkeys (Гастробар), Bokhtar St, ☏ +992 00 000 2828. Gastropub with sausages and beer and things. (updated May 2022) Small Restaurants in front of the Opera (at the small square in front of the Opera, just off from Rudaki). There are about 6 small restaurants selling shashliks, beer and softdrinks in front of the opera. Pick a table in the shade and watch people walk by while sipping your cold beer. beer: С3.

Sleep

Budget 1 Greenhouse Hostel, 98a Khusravi Dehlavi Street, ☏ +992 88 008 2725. Caters to bicycle travelers. Small courtyard. Differently priced simple dorms and individual rooms. Dorm bed starting at $12. 2 Dushanbe Hostel Latifa (Rahmon Nabiyev Street, 2nd Passage, Nr. 23), Rahmon Nabiyev Street, 2nd Passage, Nr. 23 (from the centre, marshrutka 2 or 7 in direction to '1. Sovetskaya'. get off at 'Korea Avto'. Follow the waymarker on the 'Korea Avto' building. from the airport marshrutka 7. same direction.), ☏ +992 887 08 10 77, [email protected]. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Family-run hostel with 18 beds, free Wi-Fi and free breakfast. 10-20 min drive from the city centre. US$6-7. (updated Feb 2017) Hostel Hello, Dushanbe!, 5 Proyezd Nisora Mukhammada 4/1, ☏ +992 50 200 0005. Indoor pool and airport transfers. Dorm US$15. 3 Yellow hostel, Nisor Muhammad Street 16, ☏ +992 93 988 0107. Just around the corner of the popular "Greenhouse Hostel" this place offers similar style dorms and comfort. Dorm 80 SM. (updated Aug 2019)

Mid-range 4 Atlas B&B (Гостиница Атлас), 63, Mirzo Rizo (ул. Мирзо Ризо), [email protected]. Very good Tajik Guesthouse. US$80. 5 Almos hotel, 6, Mirzo Rizo str (ул. Мирзо Ризо), ☏ +992 93 8177272, +992 93 525 6666, +992 44 625 7373, fax: +992 37 2272731, [email protected]. Sauna & swimming pool, billiards & table tennis, fitness saloon, massage services, conference-room, Wi-Fi, disco-bar with variety of beverages, transport services, dry cleaning and storing the luggage, Reservation and obtaining of tickets Single/double from US$80/120 to 150. (updated Jul 2014) 6 Mercury Hotel (Гостиница Меркурий), 9, Lev Tolstoy Str (ул. Л. Толстого) (Near to the Botanical Garden), ☏ +992 37 2244491, +992 44 6400666, +992 44 6400777, +992 918 888889, +992 918 882222, fax: +992 37 2244137, [email protected]. Standard single/double: US$70/90, suites US$100. (updated Jul 2014) 7 Rohat, Rudaki ave. (Проспект Рудаки), 24 (across the road from the Opera & Ballet Theater), ☏ +992 372 111 050, [email protected]. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Central, across the road from the Opera & Ballet Theatre. 100 metres to Dushanbe main road: Rudai Av. &00 meters to Traditional Market (Green Market).Good mattresses; Kettle for tea or coffee in the room, free tea bags, coffee powder, bottles of mineral water and toiletries provided daily, safe box, aircon and good Wi-Fi, flat screen satellite TV all in your room; transfer from and to the airport; self-service substantial breakfast, discounts for long stays/off-season. Helpful English speaking st

Go next

There are many drivers for hire who will take you to lakes and mountains nearby. Varzob River also has some vacation areas with raised platforms above the narrow river, which is quite refreshing on a hot day. Be aware that the drivers will most likely not speak English, so a working knowledge of Russian or Tajik is advisable, as are haggling skills. Iskander-Kul lake is popular with locals in the summertime and it's very much possible to reach it for free through hitchhiking and hiking. There is a waterfall. Often completely packed in the spring and summer though. An alternative waterfall in the area is near Gusgarf village. It drops 32m into a pool, possible to swim (for the brave!) unlike in Iskander-Kul. Difficult to find, however. There is a shepherd's trail from Gusgarf village about 4km north. 1,000m ascent over rough scree. Follow the (sometimes invisible) trail to the top of the mountain (where it is possible to camp and make a fire), look down over the ridge and to the left, the waterfall is hidden behind the large bare rock. Turn left along the ridge and walk along until you see a trail leading down to the right; follow this over a ford until you reach a rocky barely-there stream flowing steeply downhill on the left, then follow this down to the waterfall. Or ask a shepherd for directions ("gdye vadapad?" should suffice). Difficult hike, wear good shoes.