Dhaka

Understand

Dhaka emerged as a cosmopolitan city during the Mughal Empire. Today, Dhaka is South Asia's second most populous capital after Delhi and an important financial center alongside Mumbai and Karachi. Modern Dhaka is a thriving, colourful and congested metropolis. Being one of the most densely populated places on the planet, Dhaka can be one of the most frenetic cities in the world. Its streets and rivers are filled with colourful chaos. The city plays host to the highest number of rickshaws in the world. Dhaka is also the center of Bangladesh's textile industry, the country's principal foreign exchange earner. Experiencing the city for the first time may seem overwhelming.

Geography

Dhaka covers 360 km2 (140 sq mi) in the lower reaches of the Ganges delta. It is bounded by the Rivers Buriganga, Dhaleshwari and Turag; and their numerous tributaries and river channels. The land is close to sea level. Dhaka is vulnerable to flash floods during the monsoon.

Etyomology The literal meaning of the name Dhaka is "concealed". The enigmatic name might have originated from dhak trees found in the area; or from the 12th-century Hindu Dhakeshwari Temple.

History

The earliest settlements in the region date back 2,500 years. Dhaka was the capital of Bengal during the Mughal Empire in the 17th century. As the seat of administration and commerce in the Bengal Delta, the wealthiest and most fertile region in the Empire, it became one of the largest and most prosperous cities in Asia. Proclaimed as the provincial capital in 1608, Mughal Dhaka had a population of one-million people, with well-laid out gardens, monuments, tombs, forts, mosques, temples, and churches. The city was home to Armenian, Persian, Greek, Arab, Portuguese, French, Dutch, and English merchants. Its riverbanks were once dotted with numerous stately mansions and the city was described as the Venice of the East. The Dhaka District was famous worldwide for its fine cotton muslin fabrics. The British East India Company took control of the city in 1793. In British Bengal, Dhaka and its sister city Calcutta played a tale of two cities in the region, greatly affecting the course of events in the British Raj. The short-lived Partition of Bengal in 1905 established Dhaka as the capital of Eastern Bengal and Assam and incubated the broader Indian independence movement. The All India Muslim Educational Conference in Dhaka in 1906 established the All India Muslim League. The University of Dacca gained a reputation as the "Oxford of the East" in its early years. Following the Partition of British India in 1

Getting there

By plane

1 Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport (DAC IATA). The primary airport serving Dhaka. It has regular international flights from Bahrain, Bangkok, Colombo, Doha, Dubai, Hong Kong, Istanbul, Jeddah, Karachi, Kuala Lumpur, Kathmandu, Kolkata, Kuwait, Kunming London, Male, Mumbai, Muscat, New Delhi, Paro, Singapore, and Yangon. The national airline Biman Bangladesh Airlines operates flights to 21 cities in Europe and Asia. Private Bangladeshi carriers operate regional flights within South Asia and Southeast Asia. Hazrat Shahjalal is a relatively modern and efficient airport. Immigration may take notoriously long during peak hours. Most foreign nationals require a visa to enter Bangladesh, although some travellers may obtain a visa upon arrival at the airport for US$51 or €51. If you are transferring from the international terminal to the domestic terminal, beware of airport officials at the scanning station (before the domestic terminal) who will tell you that the domestic terminal is closed, make you sit down, and then try to extort bribes from you. If that happens, get up, and quickly walk out of the doors and turn right towards the domestic terminal. Once inside, he may follow you, but loudly tell him to leave you alone. He will back down and go back to his station. Domestic flights link five cities within the country.

By train

Dhaka is the hub of Bangladeshi Railways. Almost all major cities in Bangladesh connect with Dhaka by train, usually two or three times per day. There are daytime and overnight trains. The only international connection by train is with Kolkata, India, from where the Maitree Express departs early morning, three times per week. Bangladeshi Railways does have an e-ticket service, but it only works with domestic credit cards and phone numbers. Best bet for a tourist is to make reservations at the station or a travel agency. Trains are popular so book in advance.

2 Kamalapur railway station (কমলাপুর রেলওয়ে স্টেশন), Outer Circular Road, Motijheel Thana (Southeastern part of Central Dhaka. MRT Line 1 and 6 are expected to serve Kamalapur by 2025. Numerous bus routes call here), ☏ +880 1711691612. Kamalapur railway station is the central and largest railway complex in Bangladesh with over 50 trains arriving per day. An estimated sixty thousand people use the station every day. There are 8 platforms in the station. It is the hub for all regional and intercity trains, located just east of Old Dhaka. The station is among the most striking modernist buildings in the city. There are a lot of options to eat and drink in Kam

Getting around

It's not a lie; Dhaka is one of the most congested cities in the world due in large part to being one of the most populous cities in the world. Dhaka has often been referred to as the "Traffic Capital of the World", and you can literally spend hours in traffic. A poorly developed road network, an inefficient traffic system, an unskilled traffic police force, poor efficacy of traffic laws, constant construction, lack of adequate parking spaces, and bad driving habits are some of the many reasons why Dhaka has immense congestion problems. If you're struggling to find a fair fare with a driver among the multitude of transportation options, try walking a short distance to the next one. It's important to note that not all drivers are dishonest and it's better to seek out the reliable ones and give them your business. In the event that a driver demands more money upon arrival, it's best to stick to the agreed or metered fare and leave. It's also crucial to ensure that the driver knows where you're headed from the beginning, unless you're able to direct them yourself. Some drivers may claim to have local knowledge but end up taking a longer route, so be cautious. Additionally, it's recommended to carry a card with your hotel or hostel information written on it so that you can easily find your way back. A card with the actual address of your accommodation can make things even simpler.

By rickshaw

Due to poor infrastructure and nasty traffic conditions, one of the quickest ways to get around the city is by rickshaw. This isn't to say that it's easy to hail a rickshaw and you should rely entirely on rickshaws during your time in the city; negotiating a fare is essential, and rickshaws are, to a significant extent, responsible for the city's horrendous traffic. Still though, getting around by rickshaw is a much better alternative than getting around by car. Rickshaws in wealthy areas such as Banani and Gulshan often must pay local mafia men for the privilege of servicing the high-price areas. This can sometimes mean drivers are apprehensive to take passengers to these areas. Additionally, foreigners should also be warned that rickshaws will sometimes begin the ride with a pitch to sell drugs or prostitutes. This is very rare. One or two simple, but firm, declines will generally solve the situation. If you're a woman, it's particularly inadvisable to ride around alone in rickshaws after dark; you're a slow-moving target asking for trouble from thugs and muggers. Take a yellow taxi instead.

By metro

The planned 6-line has finished construction. The 6 MRT Lin

See

Individual listings can be found in Dhaka's district articles The University of Dhaka in Dhaka/Central was an epicenter of Bangladesh's struggle for self-determination. It has several notable colonial buildings, including the Curzon Hall, a masterpiece of European-Mughal architecture. The Burdwan House is home to the Bangla Academy. The campus also hosts the Central Shaheed Minar, the national monument dedicated to the Bengali Language Movement; as well as the tomb of the National Poet Kazi Nazrul Islam.

Gurdwara Nanak Shahi in Dhaka was built in 1830. It is the largest Sikh temple in Bangladesh and commemorates the visit of Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism, to Bengal in the 14th century. Ramna Green is a vast stretch of green surrounded by a serpentine lake in Dhaka/Central. Hatirjheel is a regional modernist transport system in central Dhaka with numerous bridges, flyovers and viaducts over a huge natural lake in Dhaka/Central. Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman Novo Theatre (Dhaka Planetarium) is a state-of-the-art planetarium named after Sheikh Mujibur Rahman is near the Parliament in Dhaka/Central.

Do

Individual listings can be found in Dhaka's district articles

Buy

If you go shopping ready to bargain then there are certainly bargains to be had among the bazars and markets of Dhaka. To get a feel for what things should cost in the local markets check prices in the Western-style fixed-price shops and then deduct 10%.

Eat

Individual listings can be found in Dhaka's district articles Dhaka has an enormous variety of food catering to all budgets. Old Dhaka is overflowing with cheap Bangladeshi food where a meal can cost from Tk 50. In the upscale areas such as Gulshan and Banani there are Chinese, Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, Greek and Mexican restaurants, and franchises such as Pizza Hut and KFC - all at prices that the majority can't afford. Reservations are usually not required in most restaurants. A lot of the Buffet-style restaurants in this area have Tk 250–400, fixed price menu. Local sweets (misti/mishti) like rasogollah and golap jam/pantuya/ledikeni are excellent, these are bite-sized soft milk curd balls dipped (drenched) in syrup, and come in white and red varieties. Shops throughout the town (and especially near Gulshan) sell imported condiments from Dubai, Europe, Malaysia and the US at a premium. Imported chocolate is especially expensive - and usually not in the best condition as it gets melted and re-solidified daily in the tropical heat. Fresh is better. Be careful when buying food from street vendors as health and hygiene standards are not always top notch. Unlike Bangkok—street food in Dhaka is only for locals. Foreigners should stick to larger, organized (and unfortunately a little expensive) food outlets. In organized food outlets or in street stalls stick with more popular outlets where there are people inside or in line as that can indicate quality as the locals (and some travellers) and most likely to be clean and good eating. An empty restaurant or a lone food cart (with no customers) should be avoided as it's empty for a reason.

Traditional food

Dhakaiya Biryani

Traditional Dhakaiya spicy dish available in every corner of old Dhaka.

Bakorkhani

Bakorkhani or Bakharkhani is a traditional bakery item available in every corner of old town.

Drink & nightlife

Individual listings can be found in Dhaka's district articles There is a party network between the different expat clubs (Dutch Club, Canadian Club, Nordic Club, International Club, American Club, etc.) and some Bangladeshi clubs (Heritage, Privilege, etc.) These clubs usually require membership to enter, or befriend a member and have them sign you in. From there, you can purchase a book of tickets or a cash card and then use it to order your drinks. Although alcohol is most easily available at the international clubs and top hotels, there are quite a few local places to find a drink for the enterprising traveller. Local bars are to be found in most neighbourhoods but can be difficult to locate due to lack of advertising. Popular brands of beer (Heineken, Carlsberg, Tuborg, Foster's etc.) and major types of spirits are available at these places, and at much lower prices than at hotel bars. You can try:

The Dip, like most other Bengali bars, is a smoke-filled darkened room where many of its patrons would rather not be recognized too easily. Definitely an experience, nonetheless. Beers cost upwards of Tk 150 and "tots," which are single ounce servings of gin, vodka or whisky, are available from Tk 70 (local brands) to Tk 200. Female patrons may feel slightly uncomfortable.

Sleep

Individual listings can be found in Dhaka's district articles There are a huge variety of options for accommodation in the city, varying from unkempt dormitory beds for only a few US dollars, to huge multinational hotels that have penthouses for thousands of US dollars per night.

Go next

The Ashulia Lake - North of Dhaka Bogra - 220 km away from Dhaka, the capital of ancient Bangla Comilla - World War Cemetery, Kotbari Baddha Bihar, BIRD, Salban Bihar Cox's Bazar - World's longest sea beach. Gopalgonj - birthplace of the father of the nation Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman Rejendrapur National Park — 40 km north of Dhaka, vast (1,600 acres/640 ha) national recreational forest with much wildlife Sundarbans, Satkhira, 350 km from Dhaka. Sonargaon If you feel the need to escape and take a break from the chaos of Dhaka, Songargon, about 29 km. from Dhaka offers you the chance to do just that. The town has a few worthwhile sights that are separated from one another and whilst going from sight to sight, you have the opportunity experience rural life and take in the less chaotic surroundings. Hajiganj is another place of historical interest, situated about 10 km from Mograpara bus stand. However, the above-mentioned places usually take up most of the day and it is best to return to Dhaka before evening. Sonargaon and Hajiganj may be combined into a single day if one sets off very early from Dhaka.