Dar es Salaam

Understand

Dar es Salaam is certainly not at the top of the list of places to see for most visitors to Tanzania. It's often a necessary stop on their way to Zanzibar, the northern safari circuit or home, but Dar has its charm. Walks around the city centre are a great way to get a feel for the culture and Kariakoo market can be an interesting place for the more adventurous. It can also be a good base for visiting some of the nearby sites such as Bagamoyo, Bongoyo and Mbudja Islands, as well as learn to scuba dive or go deep sea fishing. For those looking for something more humanitarian, most international organizations are based in Dar and may be a good starting point if you wish to volunteer.

Geography Most visitors to Dar arrive via Julius K. Nyerere International Airport, about 10 km west of the city centre. Dar is flat and is bordered on the east by the Indian Ocean.

Climate

Between December and February, in the dry season, temperatures can rise to the mid-30s (°C); due to the high humidity, discomfort can be very high. You should seek shelter from the sun during the midday heat and use copious amounts of sunblock. Best times to visit are: June-Sept, after the rainy season, with milder temperatures and lower relative humidity.

Getting there

Visa Citizens of many Commonwealth and African nations can enter Tanzania visa-free. The list of included countries can be found here. However, travellers from most countries, including United Kingdom, Canada, or India, can obtain a visa on arrival for a fee of US$50 (US$100 for citizens of the United States), here is the list of countries that require referral visa. The fee must be paid in cash and in US dollars. Other requirements may exist for business or other types of visas. Check with the nearest Tanzanian consular section.

By plane 1 Julius Nyerere International Airport (DAR IATA Formerly known as Mwalimu Julius K. Nyerere International Airport and Dar es Salaam International Airport) (10 km from the city center and 20 km from the Msasani Peninsula). Tanzania's main airport Most large hotels offer a pick-up and drop-off service upon request. A taxi from the airport to the city centre will cost you from TSh 30,000 with higher prices at night. Bajaji vehicles charge about half the price of a normal cab. Walking out of the airport to the main road there’s a daladala stop, which can get you to town cheaply (<TSh 1000). Buses are easy to find and have their destination signposted, however some may take significant detours before arriving at their destination. Look for those marked POSTA, which is the main Post Office in the city centre next to the ferry terminal. There are also buses heading to Mwenge or Mbezi Luis terminals if you plan to go somewhere else by bus directly. Hitchhiking is uncommon, dangerous, and most drivers will expect some form of payment from foreigners. Getting to/from the airport often entails a traffic nightmare, particularly around evening rush hour (which can last beyond 20:00). There is one particular intersection between downtown and the airport that is impossible to avoid and is often backed up for over an hour. Leave yourself a lot more time than you think reasonable for the trip; if you arrive too early for your flight's check-in, there is a pleasant restaurant above the terminal that has okay food and good beer. Dar es Salaam is served internationally from: Europe by:

KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (Amsterdam), +255 22 213 9790, daily flights with a stop in Kilimanjaro. Swiss International Airlines (Zürich), +255 22 211 8870, 5 flights a week (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday) with a stopover in Nairobi, Kenya. Middle East and Asia by:

Turkish Airlines (Istanbul IST), +90 212 444 0 849, daily flights. Emirates (Dubai), +255 22 211 6100, Daily flights. Oman Air (Muscat), direct flights 3 times a week (

Getting around

By foot

Walking around central Dar is a nice way to see the city and probably the best way to get around. In general people will leave you alone except for the occasional greeting. There aren't many sidewalks in Dar so exercise caution when walking along busy roads.

By bike Cycling around Dar is possible but can be difficult and scary. You should be comfortable with cycling in high-congestion areas where a cyclist is often low in the food chain. Tanzanians have little patience when driving and in their mind any vehicle smaller than theirs is responsible for getting out of the way. Cycling on the Msasani Peninsula is less bad than in more urban areas. Wear a helmet and hone your defensive cycling skills. UWABA, the Dar cyclists' association, is uniting cyclists to lobby for better (or any) bike lanes, traffic safety, and to improve the image of cycling. Cycling is associated with poor people who can't afford motorised transport and middle-class Tanzanians complain that their reputation will suffer if they are seen on a bike. Some local tour groups offer guide bicycling tours around the city. This is a good way to get further afield and interact with the locals. One company that offers bike tours in Dar is Afriroots – they have 'Dar Reality Tours' and Sunday tours that include a delicious lunch. Sign up for the Sunday tours on the previous Thursday. Their email is [email protected]

By car Car hires can be organized through most hotels. Tanzanians drive on the left. Like many developing countries, driving in Dar can be stressful, difficult and dangerous. In addition to potholes, drivers must contend with aggressive taxis and dalla-dallas (see below), poor driving skills by western standards, large potholes, uncovered manholes, few if any street lights at night, and thieves who remove any exterior part of your vehicle while you’re stopped at traffic lights. During the rainy season you must also navigate through water covered roads that may hide deep potholes and around Tanzanians who dart out into traffic in an effort to get out of the rain, often with little children in tow. In conclusion, driving in Dar should be left to those with driving experience in developing countries. Choice of vehicle

If you're only driving in Dar, you can opt for a sedan which will be cheaper on gas and easier to park. You'll still have to go slowly when you're taking secondary roads, many of which aren't sealed. Driving in the city

Dar's city centre is extremely congested M-F 09:00-18:00. There are few traffic lights and the streets are very narrow. It's dog-ea

See

1 National Museum, 5 Shaaban Robert St, ☏ +255 712562397. 09:30-18:00 daily. The national museum mainly shows photos and exhibitions on the development of human nature. A must go to see the skull of the Nutcracker Man (1.75 million years old) and the cast of the even older (3.6 million years) laetoli footprints. Also find a botanical garden on the other side of Samora Ave. 2 Makumbusho Village Museum, ☏ +255 222700437. 09:00-18:00 daily. All of the houses within the village were constructed in accordance with the types of houses built by various ethnic groups throughout Tanzania. Ngoma dance shows are held from 14:00-18:00 on certain days. 3 Askari Monument. A monument dedicated to the Askari soldiers who fought in World War I. 4 Zoological Gardens. US$20. 5 Karimjee Hall. Former parliamentary building. Still in use for seminars.

Churches 6 Azania Front Lutheran Church. This well-known landmark in the centre of the city was built by German missionaries. (updated May 2021) 7 St. Joseph's Cathedral. Roman Catholic cathedral completed in 1902. (updated May 2021)

Do

Massage Try High Care Massage at the Slipway for a very professionally organized place. There are signs for lots of other massage and spa centres around town. Two places favoured by ladies in landcruisers are Lemon on Haile Selassie Road (next to George & Dragon pub) or the Spot on Chole Road (opposite the taxi stand).

Beaches Ocean Road Public Park just east of the National Museum and House of Culture is not too enthralling with the way the main sewer line for the city empties into the ocean right there with the smells to go with it. Bahari Beach hotel is about 20 km to the north of Dar es Salaam along New Bagamoyo Road. The hotel charges a small fee for non-guests.

Kigamboni also known as "South Beach", is across the channel from the Zanzibar ferry. You can get to the other side by ferry, not the same as for Zanzibar. Avoid taking pictures on the ferry or at the terminals, even of the skyline. The ferry is on a strict "no photo" rule, and passengers, even tourists have been forced by security forces to delete completely innocent panorama pictures. The ferry station is north of the Zanzibar ferry past the Kilimanjaro Kempinski Hotel near the main fish market. You walk onto the ferry which costs TSh 100. The crossing takes about 5 minutes. Once across, you can hire a taxi to take you to the beaches, most of which are accessed through the various hotels along the coast. Public beaches have all been sold to developers. Hotels, such as the Sunrise, will charge a TSh 5,000 entry fee. TSh 3,000 of which is returned to you in the form of food vouchers. Most hotels are about 5 km from the ferry and you should be able to get there for TSh 10,000-15,000 depending on your negotiating skills. There are also daladalas which ply the road to the beaches.

Islands For a great day trip, head out to Bongoyo Island. Bongoyo is a small, uninhabited island just off the coast. The boat to Bongoyo leaves from Mashua Waterfront Bar & Grill at Slipway, the upscale set of shops and markets on the Msasani Peninsula, just north of Dar es Salaam. A taxi from the city center should run you TSh 8,000. The first boat leaves at 09:30, with others at 11:30, 13:30 and 15:30, with a minimum of four people. The ferry cost Tsh 25,000 which includes a round trip plus the US$10 for the marine park fee. The return ferries are at 10:30, 12:30, 14:30 and the last one leaves around 16:30. There is a small restaurant on the island which serves a variety of foods and drinks (grilled prawns, fish and chips, egg and chips, beer). Another option is to buy food at the Shrijee's supermarket at Sli

Buy

Banks & ATMs All Stanbic Bank, FNB Bank, and DTB Bank offer Mastercard/Visa ATM service. In addition, the Tanzanian banks CRDB, EXIM, NBC Bank also offer Mastercard Visa card service with their ATMs. These banks also offer Mastercard/Visa ATMs:

I&M Bank Mosque Street EcoBank Sokoine Drive Equity Bank Ohio Street KCB Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road

Malls & supermarkets Mlimani City Shopping mall. The largest shopping mall in Dar es Salaam. City Mall, corner of Bibi Titi & Morgoro roads, ☏ +255-768-088066. 09:00-23:00. Has a large supermarket and a bank and lots of shops not far from downtown. (updated Mar 2018) Aura Mall, Morogoro Road, ☏ +255-22-2774253. 07:00-23:00. Has a supermarket. (updated Mar 2018)

Kangas For kangas (or khangas), colourful, sarong-like pieces of cloth with Swahili sayings along the bottom, try Kariakoo market or the cloth market on the streets around it. Check around south end of Jamhuri St., where there are many textile shops. Here you can also buy kitenge, twice the length of kangas and usually cut in half to form a complete outfit, for around TSh 4000 each. Try asking in here if you want something like a dress made to measure. Kariakoo is also a good place for fresh food. Watch out for pickpockets. The wholesale textile markets are on Uhuru St. in the Mnazi Mmoja district near Kariakoo, although the number of people and the attention can be overwhelming for some visitors. It helps to speak Swahili, and if you can, go during the week rather than on Saturdays. It's a much more enjoyable experience on a weekday, since there are fewer people around you can chat with the sellers and there is less high-pressure haggling. The Uhuru Street sellers are wholesalers, so unless you feel you're being quoted a very inflated price, it is difficult to bargain.

Carvings and crafts Carvings and other touristy souvenirs can be found all over Dar. Remember that haggling is expected. There is a fantastic craft market in Mwenge, the Mwenge Carvers' Market. Here you can watch many of the artists make the crafts that are sold throughout the country (although some crafts sold in Tanzania are imported from Kenya). Prices range from expensive to extremely cheap. There are many stalls selling similar things, and if you are savvy, you might be able to pit the vendors against each other. The perk of the Mwenge market is the sheer volume of crafts to choose from. If you like the style of something at a specific store (they tend to carry items made by one or two artists), and you have some time, you can meet the artist and have them custom make something

Eat

Due in part to the growth of the expatriate community and the increasing importance of tourism, the number of international restaurants has risen very rapidly. The city now offers a rich and internationalized diversity of cuisine, ranging from traditional Tanzanian Barbecue style options such as Nyama Choma (Roasted meat – served with rice or ugali) and Mishkaki (Shish kebab – usually barbecued and served with salt, hot peppers, chapati, fries, and rice on the side), and the long-established traditional Indian and Zanzibari cuisine, to options from all corners of the globe including Chinese, Thai, Turkish, Italian, and Japanese food. Restaurants like City Garden, Addis in Dar, and Best Bite are only a few of the most popular restaurants in Dar es Salaam. Even fast food restaurants like Steers and Subway now have prominent places in the restaurant sector of Dar es Salaam. People who prefer neither fast food or traditional restaurants buy their food from street vendors, who usually sell good food for very affordable prices. Samosas are common street food items within the city. Primary and secondary school students are usually more likely to buy food from street vendors than other age demographics.

$ = Cheap (TSh 1,000–5,000 for a meal for one) $$ = Average (TSh 5,000–10,000) $$$ = Moderate (TSh 10,000–20,000) $$$$ = Expensive (TSh 20,000+)

Tanzanian Traditional Tanzanian food can be had on almost any street. From grilled meats (mishikaki) to BBQ corn on the cob, and chips and eggs (chips mayai). If you're looking for something a little more sanitary, there are a number of small hotels and restaurants that serve a buffet style meal at lunch time which offers a variety of Tanzanian stews, deep fried fish and chicken, and vegetables. Some good choices:

Summy's (aka "Street Chicken"), Jamhuri Street NE of Morogoro Road.. Grilled marinated chicken, mishkaki, Indian food. ($). Chef's Pride, Chagga St.. A very popular local eatery with Tanzanian food, plus pizza and Indian. ($$). Durban Hotel. Two streets past Royal Chef on the right. Excellent selection of Tanzanian, Chinese, and Indian dishes at reasonable prices. Excellent fish fresh from daily. ($). Local "hotelis" or restaurants can be found on just about every major street. Most serve ugali, rice or chapati with beans, meat or fish stews, and mishitaki (grilled kebabs). For something even more upscale, try the Sunday brunch at the Kilimanjaro Hotel. The restaurant on the ground floor offers a wide variety of Western dishes but also includes several local favourites taken up a notch. It's not chea

Drink & nightlife

You should only drink bottled water. A 1.5-litre bottle will cost you TSh 1,000 in a store or on the street, depending on the brand (and TSh 2000 or more at restaurants), but you can also drink tap water if you've purified it with iodine tablets or boiled it (at least 3–5 minutes at a rolling boil). "Seepage" from the sewer pipes into the water pipes is quite common. Kilimanjaro, Serengeti, and Safari (the latter being a stronger beer, 5.5% alcohol) are local beers and popular with Tanzanians and foreigners. These are typically TSh 2300-3000 apiece for 500-ml bottles in local spots, but can cost TSh 4000 or more at some bars and restaurants. Imported beer available in Dar include Tusker, Ndovu, Stella Artois, Castle Lager, and Heineken. The African imports (Tusker, Ndovu and Castle Lager) are not that much more expensive than local beers, but the European beers can be three to four times the price of domestics. Konyagi is a popular, local gin, and its variant Konyagi Ice is comparable to hard lemonade and other sweet drinks. Krest, bottled locally by Coca Cola, offer Club Soda, Tonic Water and Bitter Lemon drinks. Stoney Tangawizi (ginger ale but stronger in taste) is one of the more popular soda drinks. Sodas come in glass bottles and you'll usually be asked to return the bottle or pay extra to take it, but they don't usually like that. All of the large hotels have full bars with air conditioning. Many offer 2-for-1 happy hour specials in the late afternoon/early evening. There are quite a number of night clubs in Dar es Salaam downtown or on the peninsula. If you like to have a chillout evening, the Mediterraneo Lounge has a large collection of chill-out music. At the Mediterraneo Hotel & Restaurant Lounge you can enjoy the fantastic view of the Indian Ocean while sipping your favourite drink, and listening to the best lounge & chill-out music in Dar es Salaam. More in town and therefore somewhat less romantic but still beautiful, on the Peninsula, check out very attractive but expensive Coral Beach restaurant, right on the ocean, from where you can watch the sun set.

Peninsula & around Q Bar, ☏ +255 22 211 2667, +255 754 282 474. Haille Selassie Road, Oysterbay area. A large bar and restaurant which can get crowded and noisy when major football games are shown on giant screens or on Friday night when there is live music. Daily drink specials. Notorious as a prostitute hangout in the evenings. Large crowd of locals and foreigners (usually men).

Sleep

The cost of accommodation can vary from TSh 10,000 a night for very basic rooms to hundreds of dollars for the Holiday Inn Hotel. The YWCA and the YMCA are the main place to stay and meet fellow backpackers. They fill up quickly.

Budget City Centre:

1 Econo Lodge, Libya Street, ☏ +255 22-211 6048, [email protected]. Close to the Safari Inn, has very simple but clean single rooms with private bathroom for TSh 20,000 per night. 2 Holiday Hotel, Jamhuri Street. An old colonial-era building that has been managed by the same Indian family for three generations. Lot of character but a bit run down and the mattresses are sweaty. Singles with shared bath for around TSh 15,000, en suite doubles for TSh 25,000.. (updated Aug 2020) 3 Safari Inn, ☏ +255 22-2138101. Around Libya Street, has singles with private bathroom from TSh 35,000 per night with simple breakfast. The hotel has an Internet café, and there are restaurants nearby. 4 YMCA, Kivukoni, ☏ +255 22-213 5457. Single and double simple rooms. Rooms are cheaper if you are a resident of Tanzania, with a passport stamp to prove it. TSh 20,000-25,000. 5 YWCA, Ghana St, ☏ +255 22 212 2439. Simple and clean hostel style hotel that is in a very noisy neighbourhood. YWCA offers single rooms with fans and shared bathrooms. All bookings get free breakfast, but it's not that tasty! A good place for backpackers to stay in the city center. TSh 20,000. Elsewhere:

6 CEFA Hostel, in Mikocheni B, on Old Bagamoyo Road. If you don't want to spend too much and get a clean room together with a good service, this hostel could serve you well. This hostel offers accommodation, including breakfast. The hostel is run by CEFA, an Italian NGO that helps finance its rural development projects in the inner part of the country with the proceeds. Very kind staff, Wi-Fi connection available free for guests, a wonderful terrace with view on the sea and the possibility to eat excellent Italian food for less than Tsh 9300. The place usually packs up quite quickly so it's better to book with some advance. Tsh 58125. (updated Aug 2020) Passionist Fathers House, [email protected]. In Mikocheni B near the CEFA hostel, [+255 22] 27 80 144, TSh 35,000 for a single, TSh 50,000 for a double inclusive breakfast. Rooms have mosquito nets, showers, air conditioning, wireless internet connection and very friendly staff. They also have a safe car park. Mikocheni B is to the north of Dar es Salaam. Q-Bar and Guest House, ☏ +255 22 211 2667, +255 754 282 474, [email protected]. Haille Selassie Road, Oysterbay area. A little further out of town i

Go next

Zanzibar: There is a ferry to Zanzibar which leaves five times a day (07:00, 09:30, 12:30, 15:30, 16:00; check for updates). The price is US$35 for non-residents and the ferry takes about 2 hours. Arrive earlier at the terminal for security checks and buy your ticket in advance esp. when travelling around weekends or holidays. Although it is improving, watch out for touts, scams, and pickpockets in this area. For buying a ticket, you’ll need your passport. Buy your tickets only from the ticket window of the ferry operator you’ll be using, otherwise you’ll pay a commission. Watch out for the ferry scam: There may be a very well developed scam going on at the ferry dock. The taxi drivers seem to be in on the scam and will purposely take you to the wrong booth where a crew of friendly liars will help with your bag and assure you that you are at the right place. They charge US$35 but the ferry is a very slow boat that takes goods and vehicles as well as people and takes over 7 hours to arrive! A nice daladala day trip is from town to Bagamoyo, about a 90-minute trek north of the city. It's easiest to catch the yellow-striped bus from Mwenge (see #By_bus. From the stand in Bagamoyo you can take a bajaji (think 3-wheeled golf cart) to historical sites including 13th century ruins, a 19th-century German garrison, and a very colorful seafood market on the beach. Getting back to Dar es Salaam, you'll be pushing your luck if you delay much past 17:00. Morogoro: About three hours from Dar es Salaam, one can visit the NGO APOPO in Morogoro (on the way to Mikumi National Parc). This organization started in 1998 to train giant rats to help remove land mines in Mozambique and has started investigating the potential use of this low-cost "technology" for the detection of TB pathogens. Mafia Island: About 30-minute flight from Dar es Salaam domestic airport, Mafia Islands host antiquities dating back to the 11th century its reefs, and known for excellent diving and snorkelling.