Cusco

Understand

Cuzco is a beautiful city with well-preserved colonial architecture, evidence of a rich and complex history. The city is the center of indigenous Quechua culture in the Andes, and walking the streets you see the layers of history. Spanish colonial buildings erected directly atop Inca walls line the square, while the modern tourist nightlife flourishes in their midst. The city is surrounded by a number of ruins, the most impressive being Sacsayhuaman, the site of the 1536 battle in which dozens of Pizarro's men charged uphill to battle the forces of the Inca. Nowadays, Cuzco is known for its indigenous population—often seen on the streets in traditional clothing—and its substantial tourist-fueled night life. At 3,400 m above sea level, altitude sickness (soroche) can be a problem. See the Stay healthy section for advice. Altitude sickness tends to sneak up on you and although its symptoms may not be apparent at first, it has the potential to develop into something extremely dangerous. Machu Picchu is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Latin America, so prices are rising every year. In and around Cuzco, lots of places and landmarks have multiple spellings: often a Spanish spelling and a Quechua spelling, and sometimes two or three of each! The name of the city, for instance, can be "Cuzco", "Cusco", or even "Qosqo", depending on where you look. Get used to confusion and extra searching when trying to find the name of a place, especially if looking online.

Climate

Cuzco has two defined seasons. The dry season lasts from April to October, with abundant sunshine. The wet season lasts from November to March; in February the Inca Trail is closed.

Tourist office Tourist Office (Directur), Portal Blankets 117 (near the Plaza de Armas), ☏ +51 84 223701. (updated Aug 2015)

Getting there

By plane 1 Alejandro Velasco Astete International Airport (CUZ IATA), Av Valesco Astete S/N (5 km east of the Centro Histórico via 28 de Julio and Av Valesco Astete; approximately 16–20 min east by taxi from the Centro Histórico). The small airport serves mainly domestic flights and some limited international connections. Travelers typically connect through Lima to reach Cusco with the following airlines: (updated Dec 2021) Avianca (Bogota, La Paz) Latam (Arequipa, Puerto Maldonado, Lima, and Santiago de Chile) JetSmart (Arequipa, Lima) Sky Peru (Lima) With only 5 gates and a few off the main terminal, this airport is fairly small, though it sees thousands of tourists a day, with restaurants and shops before and after security. Massage facilities and communication services are also available. There are a few ATMs in the check-in area. If you have time, look across the parking lot for last-minute shopping. Construction for a larger airport is underway in Chinchero (30.5 km NW of Cusco). The new Chinchero airport will include additional international flights from outside of Peru and accommodate more travelers entering the area. There are no car rental facilities in the airport; car rental companies can be found around the airport perimeter, and meet-and-greets can be arranged to pick up your vehicle. Europcar, Hertz, Sixt and Thrifty have rental offices in Cuzco, as well as a number of local car rental companies. The market rate for a taxi from the airport to the Centro Histórico is around S/15, not S/30 or more as the 'official' airport taxis may try to charge you. The ticket desks for official are by the exit doors before exiting the building, with their drivers outside the doors. It is best to use the unofficial cabs and expect to pay around S/10–15 without much trouble. To find these taxis, exit the airport through the main gate and go to the street that is in front of the airport. Head right on the right-hand-side of the street for around 50 m until you hit the taxi stand. There are plenty of buses passing outside of the airport main gate. During daylight hours, it should be easy to take one to the old town. S/1. Takes about 30–45 minutes depending on traffic. The airport opens at 03:00 in the morning, so if you have to leave early in the morning, do not arrive before 03:00, if so, You will have to wait outside the airport (and it is pretty dark). Cusco is surrounded by mountain peaks and most flights from Lima approach it by going to its south, overshooting it, and doubling back through a gap in the peaks on the south east side. If you are coming

Getting around

The center of Cuzco is small enough to walk around, although you will probably need to catch a bus or taxi to the bus station, Sacsayhuamán or the airport. Beware about walking around at night alone or drunk as robberies have often been reported.

By bus There are several smaller bus terminals in Cuzco that travel to other destinations around the Sacred Valley of the Incas.

5 Av. Grau 525. Cuzco—Chinchero - Urubamba 6 Calle Puputi 208. Cuzco—Pisac - Yucay - Urubamba 7 Av. Tullumayo 207. Cuzco—Pisac - Calca 8 Av. De La Cultura 1320. Cuzco—Urcos (Tipon - Piquillacta - Andahuaylilas) If you are staying in Cuzco for a long time, the combis are a cheap and reliable form of transportation. These are the Volkswagen vans and small buses with names like Imperial, Batman, or Zorro. It costs about S/0.60 to ride them. If you are unsure whether a combi will take you where you want to go, just ask. They will call out the stops as they go and if you want to get off, you just yell "Bajo!", as in, "I want to get off!" They run until 22:00. But if you are a fan of lots of personal space, this may not be the best option for you, as they tend to be quite full. Carry your backpack in front of you. For large groups, a tourist bus can be very convenient to get to places like Pisac and Ollantaytambo. Check with one of the many local travel agencies.

By taxi Taxis are very common in Cuzco. Officially they cost S/2–4 depending on distance. Call Cusco Taxi. Often the drivers isn't a local. Beware when using taxis at night; robberies have been reported in collusion with taxi cab drivers, and at certain times radio taxis may be the safest option. The driver might also try to extort a hefty sum of money (S/15) for a short ride if you don't haggle before – which is likely if you're just arriving at night at the bus terminal and want to avoid the hordes of touts. Just pay S/5 and leave it at that. Do not get in any taxis which already have a passenger. Do not get in a street taxi by night: order one by telephone. Uber is also available, with easy and cheap access using the global app. Prices are comparable to those of taxis, often slightly higher.

By car Driving in and around Cuzco can be very daunting, complete with a unique set of challenges that can make driving around Lima seem easy by comparison. However, a car does allow complete flexibility to enjoy the sites around the city and the surrounding region, without the complication of having to navigate the very confusing public transit system or being at the mercy of inflexible train schedules. Two main challenges to

See

Museums and galleries 1 Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporáneo. M-Sa 09:00–18:00. In the Municipal Palace at Plaza Regocijo, this museum has exhibitions of contemporary art. Admission with the boleto turistico Included in boleto turistico. (updated Feb 2025) 2 Museo Histórico Regional, Calle Garcilaso, ☏ +51 84 582830. Daily 08:00–17:00. In the home of the Inca historian Garcilaso de la Vega, this 2-story museum has many paintings from the 17th and 18th century as well as historical displays chronicling the pre-Hispanic Inca civilization, the invasion of the Spanish and the role of Christianity in the post-conquest era. A tour is unlikely to take much more than an hour. Included in boleto turistico. (updated Feb 2025) 3 Machu Picchu Museum (Museo Machu Picchu, Casa Concha), 320 Santa Catalina Ancha. M–F 09:00–16:00, closed Sa–Su. The largest collection of Machu Picchu artifacts in the world. These artifacts were collected by Yale University researcher Hiram Bingham beginning in 1912 and returned to Peru in 2011. The museum is housed in a late 18th-century house called Casa Concha. Foreigners S/20, international students and Peruvians with ID S/10, Peruvian students S/5. (updated Feb 2025) 4 Museo del Centro de Textiles Tradicionales de Cusco, Av Sol. No. 603, ☏ +51 84 236880. M-Su 8:00-19:00. A beautiful (and free) museum inside El Centro's textile store, featuring a gallery containing displays of traditional Quechuan and Andean textiles. The museum explains the historical significance of textiles and the techniques by which they are made. A must-see, and visitors can buy the traditional textiles as they come in. A large majority of the money goes to the women who produce them, and the textiles are of much higher quality than the synthetic and machine-woven textiles found throughout the city. Free. (updated Feb 2025) 5 Museo del Sitio del Qoricancha, Av El Sol. M-Su 9:00-18:00. With information about the different pre-Columbian cultures and fragments of ceramics and textiles of the Inca culture. A very small museum, the showcase room includes three mummies and skulls modified by the Incas with holes or sloped foreheads. Allow an hour to an hour and a half. English explanations are present but lacking. Included in boleto turistico. (updated Feb 2025) 6 Museo de Arte Popular, Av. El Sol 103 (in the basement of the OFEC office), ☏ +51 84 258089. M-Sa 9:00-18:00. Displays a collection of popular art featuring handcrafts of the modern era. Included in boleto turistico. (updated Feb 2025) Galleries; the stunning sceneries of the Cuzco area are often very well

Do

In Cuzco City 1 Plaza de Armas. The park square has churches, shops, restaurants and bars surrounding it, and is a great place to spend an afternoon. The historical center of Cuzco is beautiful, but you will have to deal with all the street vendors and hawkers of cheap paintings and other souvenirs. They are everywhere in and around the Plaza de Armas. They somewhat spoil the experience. (updated Nov 2020) Get a massage. You will invariably be propositioned by young ladies handing out flyers advertising massages, especially near the Plaza de Armas. These are legit, only cost S/15–20 for an hour, but are not done by trained masseuses. Still, for the price it can't be beat. 2 Plaza de San Francisco, (a few blocks southwest of the center). A great place to visit one of Cuzco's many great coffee shops. Next to the Plaza is the main market, which is fairly traditional and is a worthwhile visit. The market has a mix of stalls selling food and other household items as well as clothing and souvenirs. Play Sapo, a traditional bar game played in chicharias all over Peru. The game involves throwing small coins, called fichas, at a table with a bronze sapo (toad) attached. You get points for making it into holes on the table, and a ton of points for making it into the sapo's mouth. Best played while drinking chicha (corn beer) at a local dive. Ask old men to show you the correct throwing form, as it's difficult to master. Talk to local store owners, curators, waitresses and bartenders. They typically know a little English if your Spanish is not good, and are generally happy to share interesting information about the city not found in guidebooks. This is also a great way to find the best places to try cuy, alpaca, and chicha. Once you are accustomed to the altitude, go for a jog! This is a very humbling experience, as the hills and thin air prove a challenge to even those in great shape. It's also a good way to explore. Head east or south of the plaza for the safest places. If you're a woman out exercising, you may get a few cat calls, as this is common in much of Latin America. 3 Salseros Cusco. Take a Salsa class, or three. This is a fabulous little salsa school offering private and group classes at minimal price in two central locations. With enthusiastic teachers and a number of styles taught, this is the perfect time to polish your moves and get ready to shine on the dance floor. Ask for Franshesco Efernetti if you want private classes. Plan trekking or other excursions in the area. The wealth of agencies and tour companies make Cuzco a good place to gather

Buy

1 Mercado San Pedro (San Pedro Market), Tupac Amaru 477 (1 block west of Plaza San Francisco; it's on the block bounded between Calle Hospital & Calle Nueva and Tupac Amaru and Cascaparo just east of the train station for Machu Picchu.). M-Sa 06:00 - 18:00, Su 06:00 - 16:00. The largest market close to the center. Though it's becoming more tourist-oriented it still has plenty of genuine local colour, a nice change from Plaza de Armas. If you're looking for a full blown market with a special aisle for entrails, this is the place to be. Colorful, vibrant, packed, San Pedro Market is not to be missed. You can find all manner of fruits, vegetables, cheeses, chocolates, honey, meats, household items, clothing, gifts, fresh fruit juices, and even tailors to repair your clothes while you wait. This market is in a less (but still somewhat) touristy area. The market itself is somewhat poorly lit (shaded by an overhang). Watch your belongings. (updated Feb 2025) 2 Casa Ecologica, 393 Triunfo, ☏ +51-84-25-5646. M-F 09:00 - 13:00 and 15:00 - 18:00, closed Sa-Su. Good for fair-trade textiles. (updated Feb 2025) 3 T'Ankar Gallery, 121 Calle Palacio, ☏ +51-84-22-8936. M-Sa 11:00 - 20:30, closed Su. Good for well-made but pricey indigenous weavings and pottery. No obvious fakes or tourist junk. (updated Feb 2025) 4 Mercado de San Blas, Pumapaccha 231. M-Sa 06:00 - 16:00, closed Su. A lovely place to enjoy a delicious breakfast before starting a journey. Handcrafts available as well as fruits, vegetables and grocery items. (updated Feb 2025) 5 Artisan Market (Mercado Artesanal), Av. El Sol 1226 (intersection of Avenida del Sol and Tullumayo), ☏ +51 90 0519093. Su-Th 08:00 - 21:00, F-Sa 07:00 - 21:00. If you don't want to go so far away, but still want touristy stuff, go to the big red building near the fountain. Also try the main market by Plaza San Francisco. This market is almost exclusively tourist-oriented goods. There are a few restaurants inside as well. (updated Feb 2025) Pisac, a town outside Cuzco, has a very big market. It is about 30 minutes from Cuzco by bus. The bus station is on Tullumayo street a couple blocks from Limacpampas. The fare is very cheap, and you can see the Incan ruins at Pisac. Sacred Valley, (Valle Sagrado), includes the towns/ruins of Chinchero, Ollantaytambo and Pisac. There is lots of touristy stuff to buy, you can bargain, but the prices won´t go down much. 6 Centro Comercial El Molino, Urbanizacion Ttio. Open 24 hours. Another market, you have to take a taxi and it costs S/2 to get there. In this market you can buy pirated merchandise

Eat

The Cuzco area has some extremely good international food with tasty options for all budgets. Excellent at the end of the Av. La Cultura. Be sure to try an alpaca steak (don't forget a llama/alpaca is normally kept and used for its wool - so only old animals will be slaughtered). You can get alpaca pizza as well. Most of the mercados listed in the "Buy" section have vendors selling prepared food. Usually this is authentic regional cuisine such as traditional Inca foods. The food is often among the lease expensive places to eat in the city. The soups are amazing. Try sopa de zapallo, a type of pumpkin soup. If you are looking for traditional Peruvian food try lomo saltado (beef tips stir-fried with tomatoes, onions, and spices, over a bed of French fries and rice), aji de gallina (chicken in a very good yellow pepper sauce with olives and hard-boiled eggs), or papa rellena (stuffed potato with beef, olives, hard-boiled egg, vegetables, and spices). Cuy (guinea pig) is the absolute traditional holiday food of the region. You can buy a whole cooked cuy in many of the restaurants around Plaza de Armas. In 2018 cuy cost S/60-70 at all these places. There are also dedicated 'cuyerias' that serve much cheaper cuy. Chifa is the Peruvian version of Chinese food. The neighborhood of Wanchaq has many Chifa restaurants. As far as drinks, try Inca Kola, a bubble gum/tutti-frutti-flavored yellow soda. This drink outsells Coca-Cola in Peru (which is why it was bought out by Coca-Cola in 1999). Also, chicha morada is a Peruvian specialty. It's a spiced non-alcoholic drink made out of purple corn. When leaving Cuzco, there is a place called Boing Appetit (in front of the airport, just if you want to have breakfast or a sandwich before take the plane to Lima) it's the only place that provides a free internet connection in front of the airport.

1 Los Angeles, Jerusalen (close to Ukuku's and near the Plaza de ArmasIf). For late night food after clubbing, a very good fast food-type restaurant.

Budget 2 Chifa Status, Av. La Cultura (close to El Mega supermarket), ☏ +51 84 257013. M–Sa 13:00–16:00 and 18:00–21:00. Good quality Chifa. Dishes for S/2-3. Ample portions invite sharing. Credit cards accepted. (updated Feb 2025) 3 El Encuentro, Tigre 130, ☏ +51 84 213224. M-Sa 08:00 - 22:00, closed Su. Reasonably priced vegetarian restaurant with good portions. The S/10 dinner includes soup, main course and mate. Free salads with lunch. They also do soy meat very well. There are two of these restaurants but the one in Calle Tigre near Plaza de Armas is S/8 for exactly the same

Drink & nightlife

There are many clubs and pubs in Cuzco, and there are always people handing out flyers around the Plaza de Armas. These usually include free drinks. The clubs are almost always busy, even during the week, do not usually have cover charges, and most are open until 03:00 at the earliest and 17:00 at the latest. The hot spots change nightly; ask around and you will quickly find the crowds of travellers.

1 Mama Africa, Portal de Panes 109, ☏ +51 84 246544. Daily 19:00 - 05:00. On three levels. Snacks, a cafe on the rooftop, restaurant with a good cheap menu, two discos, the latest movies on DVD. Some of the decorations and paintings are by the owner/artist. Lots of people, good music, good atmosphere and free salsa lessons. Salsa starts at about 21:00 and goes until about 23:00. If you really want to learn some moves, dance with Carlos, Miguel, or Checo, who work there. It also plays host to the legendary 'crew' lively lot of Lima ladies whose exploits with gringo males have reached mythical levels. On the corner of Plaza de Armas. (updated Feb 2025) 2 El Muki, Santa Catalina Angosta 116 (Across the street from Mama America.), ☏ +51 97 4799695. Open 24 hours. A place with more locals than the Plaza de Armas. It has a unique cave-like interior and is one of the city's oldest discos. (updated Feb 2025) 3 Caos, Av El Sol 948 (next to the post office). If you want to get away from the tourist crowd for a while and dance the night away with the locals, head to this very nice large club with a great mix of music and exotic drinks. S/100. (updated Feb 2025) 4 Paddy's Irish Pub, Calle Triunfo 140 (on the eastern corner of Plaza de Armas), ☏ +51 84 225361. Daily 10:00 - 01:00. The night-brother of Jack's Cafe. Not exactly traditional Peruvian fare, but an excellent atmosphere among fellow travellers in a cozy upstairs pub setting. Purportedly the highest 'Irish-owned' pub in the world at 3,400 m, it offers a good selection of pub food (think cottage pie, casseroles, mash and gravy), local and international drinks (even had cider and Guinness), and a useful "No Gracias" T-shirt for sale. 5 Mythology, Portal de Panes 151. Daily 21:00 - 05:00. Disco that offers salsa. If you want to learn Rueda Cubana, this is the place to go. Classes usually start around 21:00 and private lessons can be arranged with Cesar, the dance instructor. Mythology also offers a unique decor of gods and goddesses and has the cleanest restrooms of all of the nightclubs, by far. S/20. (updated Feb 2025) 6 Ukuku's, Calle Plateros 316, ☏ +51 84 254911. varies. Live music with local and traveling a

Sleep

Loads and loads of options in Cuzco to suit all budgets. Most won't need to be booked beforehand. San Blas, many new hospedajes/hostales have opened in this area 4 blocks up the hill from the Plaza de Armas.

Budget 1 Hospedaje Amanecer, 216 Choquechaca, San Blas District (From the Plaza de Armas, head towards Plazoleta de las Nazarenas, walk down 7 Culebras, turn left and it's on the right hand side, its white with a blue door.), ☏ +51 84 240428. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. A quiet place, private bathrooms, TV, wi-fi, hot shower. Twins S/40. (updated Feb 2025) 2 Hostal El Arcano, Carmen Alto 288, San Blas District (go up Carmen Alto and it's almost all the way at the end (the road terminates at a T)), ☏ +51 84 232703. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. A great little hostal overlooking the city with a variety of comfortable, affordable rooms. ~S/30. (updated Feb 2025) 3 Pisko and Soul, Calle Carmen Alto 294, San Blas District (Go up Carmen Alto and it's all the way at the end (the road terminates at a T)), ☏ +51 84 221998. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00. Really nice for a hostel. Very friendly staff. Hot water, continental breakfast, free wifi. It's a new establishment so some books may not have it listed especially if the print is a few years old. ~S/35. (updated Feb 2025) 4 Hospedaje El Artesano de San Blas, Suytucato 790 (straight up from the Plaza San Blas), ☏ +51 84 263-968. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Well-kept place with good-value rooms around a colonial courtyard, hot water, common kitchen, helpful staff, wifi. S/75 (Feb 2025). (updated Feb 2025) 5 Taita Home, Calle Hatunrumiyoc 759 (straight up from the Plaza San Blas, there is no sign on the door), ☏ +51 84 233873. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Dormitory beds in a freaky, chilled out and friendly atmosphere with a sunny garden, fireplace, outdoor kitchen and gas hot water. S/15. (updated Feb 2025) 6 Hostels Cusco Samanapata, Nueva Alta 575 (Las Blas), [email protected]. Hostel in San Blas area of Cuzco, about 3 blocks from Plaza de Armas. Free wifi, 2 free computers, free breakfast, all rooms have cable TV. Very friendly staff, rooms cleaned daily. Much cheaper than similar places. from S/25 per person. (updated Feb 2025) 7 La Casa de mi Abuelo, Nueva Alta 785, ☏ +51 84 255837. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. A guesthouse near the Plaza de San Francisco run by a kind local lady that offers extremely clean and comfortable rooms, ensuite bathrooms, cable TV, and excellent breakfasts. 7-minute walk to Plaza de Armas US$20 double, US$13 single. (updated Feb 202

Go next

Ccaccaccollo, Traditional fabric making from Llama shearing to weaving in this township. Pisac, Colorful marketplace, climb up to the expansive ruins to the religious site and cemetery behind. 32 km (20 mi) from Cuzco. Accessible with the boleto turistico. Ollantaytambo, Religious center that doubled as a fortress during the Spanish conquest . A great place to visit on the return from Machu Picchu or an alternative if you don't want to visit Machu Picchu. Great place to stay too. 77 km (48 mi) from Cuzco. Accessible with the boleto turistico. Lake Titicaca, PeruRail connects Cuzco to Juliaca and Puno, and the journey is one of the most spectacular rail journeys in the world, passing through amazing scenery and the middle of small towns. The journey should take 10 hr, but there are often delays. The 'scenic stop' included at La Raya is a bit of a waste of time, though it's included anyway. Prices are high, and the cheap backpacker train no longer runs this route, having been sent to the Poroy (Cuzco) - Machu Picchu line. The trip from Cuzco to Puno runs about US$220 each way now. There are several buses that travel to Lake Titicaca, which are much cheaper and take less time than the train, while passing much of the same scenery. The more expensive buses stop at 5 or 6 interesting spots along the trip, including the "Sistine Chapel of South America". Machu Picchu: the atmospheric ruin perched below the Andes and above the jungle. For the best experience, walk there on the Inca Trail or one of the alternative trails, which is certainly worth the exercise! There are numerous tour companies which organise such trips, costing US$365–450 with all travel costs. There are lots of companies offering a 4-day "Jungle Trek" as an alternative to the Inca Trail, or 2-day, one-night trips for US$260-270 (Mar 2018) including hostel accommodation. A one-way train trip (Jan-Apr, it's a bus to Ollantaytambo and train to Aguas Calientes) on Inca Rail or PeruRail starts at US$65 each way. Prices rise depending on time of day, demand and class of train. Both companies can sell you tickets to the Machu Picchu site (for a $5 surcharge), tickets for the bus from Aguas Calientes to the site ($24 round-trip). This trip takes just under 4 hours. The trains begin and end at Poroy - you must take a bus or taxi from Cuzco to Poroy. You can also get to Machu Picchu from Cuzco in a "cheap" way, first a minibus for round trip for S/95 (May 2015) to Hidroelectrica, then walking 3 hr to Aguas Calientes or just take train for US$28 (May 2015); for more details about this option, see Aguas C