Cotonou

Understand

In the Fon language, the word 'cotonou' means "the mouth of the river of death". The area was settled as a fishing village during the time of the Dahomey Kingdom. The French were given permission to build a trading post, until they were given the region altogether in 1868. The city was used to defend against the British in their conquests. Cotonou grew to become the largest city in the country, right up to independence. Although the capital is located at Porto-Novo, Cotonou is still the nation's economic and population centre. It also attracts many government institutions and embassies, regardless of Porto-Novo's status, leading to the city being referred to as Benin's de-facto capital.

Getting there

By plane 1 Cadjehoun Airport (COO IATA) (extremely close to the city center in the Haie Vive neighborhood). It is the primary airport serving the city and the country. It has regular scheduled services from many African capitals, especially Francophone ones, along with connections to Brussels, Paris, and Istanbul. The airport was recently renovated under the Talon government and offers a much more pleasant experience than it previously did. Nonetheless, expect long lines to get your luggage, clear customs along with other formalities. There is a currency exchange available with windows on the arrival and departure sides. The arrival windows are between the exit doors. ATMs are only available in the departure area. You can exit and re-enter the departure area, but you’ll have to go through a security check. There is a duty-free shop in the departure area, though you might as well be paying duties with how much they charge. Keep your sticker identifying that you are the owner of your checked bag that you receive at check-in; you aren't supposed to leave the baggage claim without it, but a small bribe is really what most security guards are after. (updated Jun 2026) Taxis are available in the parking lot, but it's best to prearrange transport in advance. Most nicer hotels run airport shuttles for their guests. The parking lot is also somewhere you can buy a Beninese SIM card or change money, but be wary of getting ripped off. Other options If you're coming from the Americas, you may want to consider taking the direct Ethiopian Airlines flights from Newark or Sao Paulo to Lomé, a relatively painless 3½-hour drive away, including border formalities. Another option is flying into Lagos, which has a direct flight to Atlanta, though Lagos' airport is likely to be an even more maddening experience and Lagos to Cotonou is not an easy or particularly safe overland journey. Short-haul flights are a popular way of reaching Benin from Lagos, though most nationalities will still need an expensive Nigerian visa to tack on a separate flight to Cotonou. Because Ghana is a much more conventional destination, taking a flight to Accra shouldn't involve more than one layover. From there you can take a bus. That does mean crossing two borders, though. It is safer than the Lagos option.

By car From Porto-Novo, head south on RNIE1 and then west for 45 minutes to Cotonou.

By bus Buses from nearby capitals Accra, Lagos and Lome are plentiful. Amongst others, ABC Transport offers daily services. There are bus services from Cotonou to every good-sized town in the country. S

Getting around

By zemidjan

Moto taxis - locally called zemidjans or kekenos, are the most common form of transportation for the average Beninese person. These are very popular, and while not unique to Benin, are probably more highly concentrated here than anywhere in the world. Fares are negotiable, and there are no meters. The minimum fare is 100 CFA. Expect to pay about 100 CFA per kilometer. As long as you're staying within central Cotonou, the fare should not exceed 400 CFA. Bring a helmet along or buy one once you get to Cotonou - it's absolutely essential for your safety, and even with a helmet riding a zemidjan (or "zem") is much more dangerous than driving a car. However, many visitors to Benin, especially budget travelers and thrill-seekers, will take a zem at some point - it's simply not practical to avoid using zems without your own car, and the short hail times and door-to-door service make zems a highly functional mode of transport for many.

By taxi Conventional drop taxis taking you directly to your destination like you might find in New York or London are not the norm in Benin - most taxi drivers wait at fixed intersections for passengers willing to rent the entire vehicle. Dantokpa market, the Étoile Rouge roundabout, or Gare de Jonquet bus station are the most likely places you can find taxis, although other secondary junctions may also have taxi drivers available during the day. Many people know a taxi driver whom they contact by phone or WhatsApp when they need one, so you can get in touch with a driver by asking around. However, they will generally not be interested in short intercity trips - preferring passengers to hire a taxi for several hours at a time. Still, figure about 3000 CFA for a 30 minute voyage, or 10000-15000 CFA to rent a cab for a few hours. Keep in mind that most taxis are in a decrepit condition. The exceptions are taxis available at major hotels (such as the Novotel or Azalaï) or the airport; these are usually late-model compact cars, but figure to pay at least double and up to 4-5 times the above prices. There are also taxis plying a fixed route - these taxis are often headed to other cities, but can be hailed for voyages within Cotonou. They follow the main national highway out of Cotonou, starting from the Dantokpa market and heading west beyond the Godomey interchange. Count on paying 200 FCFA from the market to Étoile Rouge, and another 200 FCFA to continue to the Stade de l'Amitié. They also head east, crossing the lagoon to Akpakpa. Bush taxis also follow this route. Keep in mind that taxis often cram two passengers

See

Cotonou is far from an attractive city, even accounting for the expected sprawl and poor sanitation one expects in urban West Africa. Still, there are a few things to see. For those who prefer to stroll aimlessly, the most interesting scenes will likely come in the Zongo neighborhood, the city's busy Muslim quarter centered around the huge main mosque of Cotonou, a hub of street activity. Wandering on the beach - strictly during the daytime, as it's a spot for crime at night - can also provide great views of the ocean thrashing about. Areas near to central Cotonou are calm, with a few private beaches aimed at exclusive clienteles, but the beachside neighborhood of Fidjirossé has a slew of beachside maquis that attract locals to hang out during the weekend.

1 Cotonou Cathedral (Notre Dame des Apotres) (Near the Ancien Pont Bridge). Noted for its distinct burgundy and white striped tile architecture. The cathedral is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Cotonou. 2 Fondation Zinzou, Avenue Germain Olory Togbe, Quartier Zongo (Just north of Carrefour St. Michel), ☏ +229 21 30 99 25, [email protected]. M-Sa. Run by one of Benin's first families (current head Lionel was defeated in a presidential election in 2016), the Fondation Zinsou is devoted to showing contemporary art in Benin and providing supporting arts education for children. Their main Cotonou gallery hosts rotating exhibitions and is probably the best place to snag a peek of contemporary Beninese art, though the Fondation also exhibits internationally-renowned artists to provide the Beninese public the chance to see these works in person. An institution worthy of any city, but acutely needed in Cotonou. Free. (updated Jun 2017) 3 Grande Mosquée de Zongo. The largest mosque, and possibly all of Benin, it's a center of it all for Cotonou's Muslim communities. Zongo is a Hausa word meaning "foreigner", which gives an idea of the pan-Africanness you'll find in the neighborhood. (updated Jun 2017) 4 Place de la Bulgarie. A bizarre Cold War anachronism, this traffic circle features a larger-than-life statue - seemingly rising out of nowhere - of Bulgaria's first Communist leader, Georgi Dimitrov. There used to also be a statue of Lenin in the city, but it was torn down when Benin ceased its efforts to become a communist nation. (updated Jun 2017) 5 Place des Martyrs (Martyrs' square). A big North Korean-built monument to those who died fighting against colonialism. Hosts artists, a food truck, and occasional public concerts. Free. (updated May 2017) 6 Place de l'Amazone. Statue t

Do

1 Institut Français, Avenue Jean Paul II (across from the CNHU hospital complex). Hours vary by event. The Institut Français is a fixture of the Cotonou cultural scene, holding concerts, film screenings, theater, stand-up comedy, and more. 0-3000 CFA. (updated Jun 2017) 2 Stade de l'Amitié, Rue 2651, ☏ +229 21 38 17 84. The national stadium of Benin and anchor of a sports complex, Stade de l'Amitié hosts not only football matches, but also concerts and markets on the adjacent esplanade and parking lots. The Stade is also the site of a large number of restaurants and bars, making it a popular location for Beninese to head on weekend evenings to get the party started. (updated Jun 2017) 3 Air de Jeux Plage Erevan (Yerevan Beach Playground), Rue 230 / Boulevard de la Marina (just across beach road from airport runway), ☏ +229 95416860. Interesting stretch in that you have an Airbus A300 parked in the sand behind you. May be a little dirty. Just west of here is an extensive beach called Fidjrosse Beach (Plage De Fidjrosse). With both of these, watch out for powerful surf and don't go after dark. (updated Aug 2020) 4 Obama Beach (behind Congress Palace and not far from Novotel Cotonou Orisha), ☏ +229 96659646. Another beach with the well-known namesake and even a sign of him if you want a photo op. This beach is a little dirtier than the other, and also subject to strong surf and security considerations. 300 CFA. (updated Aug 2020) You can do a boat tour of Ganvie, the stilt village that is known as the Venice of Africa on the other side of Lake Nokoue. It should be possible to take a boat from the Hotel du Lac in Cotonou, where the price may be around 5,000 CFA, then different tours and such are available at the village. Another option is to hire a boat operator at the point of embarkment in Abomey-Calavi for Ganvie. Just don't touch the water, as the lack of any sewer system translates into the lake being a septic tank. Even the Lagune de Cotonou has heaping piles of garbage along the banks, so I'm sure you won't want to.

Buy

1 Grand Marché de Dantokpa, Boulevard St. Michel (by the lagoon). A fascinating place that is allegedly the largest market in West Africa, and it is huge in both size and range of products. Be prepared to bargain and brace yourself for noise, crowds, scents and sensory overload. 2 Centre Artisanal (on Boulevard St Michel about 1 block southwest from Foundation Zinsou), ☏ +229 97975555. 07:30-20:00 daily. Where artisans sell their products, everything from figurines traditional masks to richly-coloured cloth. Can be a bit of a tourist trap with some pressure to buy. (updated Aug 2020)

Eat

In addition to what's listed here, you're likely to find innumerable street stalls and local restaurants in Cotonou. These can range from a woman on the side of the road with a vat of oil to large open-air bars that double as restaurants during the day. Street snacks to look out for include atta (bean flour fritters), doko (small fried donuts, sometimes made with mashed bananas), and igname frite (fried yam slices). Most neighborhoods will also have a blue-awning cafe bar or "Cafette Diallo", serving Nescafé and local variants on spaghetti for less than a dollar, catering to a very working-class crowd. Local maquis are also numerous and serve a basic combination of rice or pâte and meat at dirt-cheap prices.

Budget 1 Boucherie Zitawi, Ganhi, near the Avenue Steinmetz overpass (In the von across from Pacha nightclub). The go-to for fast-food here. Cotonou may lack McDonald's and KFC, but it's got a proper shawarma spot that also does ace burgers and other Lebanese dishes. 1000-4000 CFA/meal. (updated Feb 2017) 2 Chez Maman Bénin, Rue 201A (In the von one block north of Boulevard Saint-Michel, near Hall des Arts), ☏ +229 21 32 33 38. Daily 11:00-00:00. A local institution that's been running for several decades. This is not the very best Beninese food you will eat, but it's a great introduction: they have an ample selection of dishes and an indoor dining room, both of which are far from the norm at low-end restaurants and maquis here. 1000-3000 CFA/person. (updated Feb 2017) 3 Fifadji Pork Maquis, Rue 2650 (Across from Pharmacie La Tamaya). Daily 12:00-18:00. This maquis does not have a name, but you'll know you're there when you see a grillmaster tending to meats cooked over a grill made from an oil drum. This is the best place in Cotonou to score grilled pork or "hanlan", more traditionally associated with Porto-Novo. 500-1200CFA. (updated May 2017) 4 La Galette à Sucre, Route de L'Aéroport, Cotonou (next to the Turkish Airlines office). Daily 06:00-23:00. A bakery and brunch spot that's always packed. Offers a range of breads and pastries, often using locally-sourced products (some of which are also sold here). Affordable crêpes, omelettes and sandwiches are available if you want to sit in. 500-2500 CFA. (updated Feb 2017)

Mid-range 5 Ci'gusta, Rue 449 (Near Pharmacie Camp Guezo), ☏ +229 96 31 01 01. Daily 08:00-23:00. Cotonou outpost of a chain that serves Italian-style ice cream, paninis and pizza across the Global South, Ci'gusta rapidly became the city's top spot for ice cream upon its opening. A welcome respite from the equatorial sun, though

Drink & nightlife

Cotonou does not have much nightlife, but all the establishments listed below are recommendable - if a bit expat-oriented. After all, the lion's share of drinking in Benin is done at local buvettes, outdoor bars where all you need for a good time are a few plastic tables and chairs, an oversized speaker, and a large beer: Beninoise, or for the hardy, a Guinness or Awooyo. Anyone seeking local colour should ask around and wander over to the nearest rickety watering hole for the experience. However, Cotonou is not one-dimensional, and those seeking diversity should check out the haunts listed below.

Cafés 1 Café Fondation Zinsou, Boulevard Saint-Michel, ☏ +229 96 71 42 70. Cotonou is very short on the type of coffee shops where hipsters congregate to bury their nose in their laptops. This is the closest thing to it, and probably the only place you can find iced coffee. The colonial undertones are wack, but they always have a rad collection of African tunes and books for sale. Also does a happy-hour on Fridays from 18:00-21:00. 1000-3000 CFA/drink, food 4000-7000 CFA/main dish. (updated Feb 2017)

Bars 2 Djunta, Fidjrossé, fin pavé. Most come for live music on Friday nights, when the house band plays afrobeat, jazz and even 1950s rock-and-roll until the wee hours. But it's good to drop by any night of the week for a cheap beer right on the beach under the glow of the Christmas-kitsch lights. 500-2000 CFA/drink. (updated Feb 2017) 3 Drink City, L'esplanade du Stade de l'Amitié. There are innumerable buvettes in the complex surrounding Stade de l'Amitié, so you really can't go wrong, but a good choice is Drink City - chiefly due to the beer on tap that is available. There are even rumours that they have had Guinness on tap, a real rarity, in addition to the more common Castel. Rotisserie chicken and grilled fish are on hand for the hungry. 500-2000 CFA/drink. (updated Jun 2017) 4 La Maison Blanche, Gbegamey (In the 2nd von east of La Poste Gbegamey). 24/7. A sprawling, multistory complex that includes a nightclub and rooftop lounge, Maison Blanche is one of the more comfortable places to enjoy beers at local buvette prices. 500-1500 CFA/drink. (updated Jun 2017) 5 Le Livingstone, Haie Vive (On the main Haie Vive strip), ☏ +229 21 30 27 58. 10:00-02:00. The main spot for expats to hangout in Cotonou. Come by for a Saturday night happy hour (18:00-18:00) to order a beer tower and see yovos gettin' rowdy. 1500-5000CFA/drink. (updated May 2017) 6 Le Parking, Fidjrosse, Place Calvaire. Part buvette, part funky art installation, Le Parking is a neat corner out

Sleep

Budget Akwa Guesthouse Cotonou, ☏ +229 66 00 53 43. Centre Paul six Hostel, Blvd St Michel. Fan room. CFA 3000 per per person,. (updated Jun 2015) 1 La Maison de CanelYa (The House CanelYa) (in Fidjrosse), ☏ +229 61301313. Smallish accommodation in a converted apartment building type of situation, with garden and bar and a few blocks from the beach. ~17872 CFA. (updated Aug 2020) 2 Hôtel Tahiti benin, Rue 1531 (on east bank of Cotonou Lagoon), ☏ +229 97111777. This one is right on the beach with a restaurant and bar overlooking the beach, and has a pool, a/c, and wifi. ~27366 CFA. (updated Aug 2020)

Mid-range 3 Hotel du Lac, ☏ +229-21331919. Check-out: 12:00. Great for those needing access to Akpakpa and central Cotonou. Has free Wi-Fi and a rather nice swimming pool. There is a free shuttle service for the airport. The Sunday all-you-can-eat buffet (10000 CFA) is worth the trip even if you're not staying here. 50000-90000 CFA/night.

Splurge 4 Hotel Azalaï de la Plage, Quartier Ganhi, ☏ +229 21 31 72 00. An African hotel chain popular with business travelers. This isn't the newest hotel by any means, but it's been well-maintained, the rooms are comfortable and even stylish, and it's close to the Port of Cotonou and the main commercial areas in Ganhi. 75000-150000 CFA/night. (updated Jun 2017) 5 Novotel Cotonou Orisha, Boulevard de la Marina, ☏ +229 21 305662. A newish, mid-tier hotel that is in good shape.

Go next

Day-trips from Cotonou Ouidah - the religious centre of Voudoun in the area and a historic city for the slave trade, at 45-60 minutes car ride from Cotonou. Porto-Novo - official capital city of Benin with several museums, cultural centres, a royal palace and a historic mosque, at 60 minutes car ride from Cotonou. Rivière Noire / Adjarra - calm river near Porto Novo surrounded by lush vegetation. The river can be explored on local boats without an engine, enjoying the calm and green scenery. Can be combined with a trip to Porto Novo to make it into a weekend get-away. Ganvie - lake town with over 30,000 people living in houses on stilts, popular tourist destination. Bab's Dock, lagoon-side restaurant a brief 15 minutes car ride from Cotonou plus a quick boat ride through the mangroves organised by the restaurant. During the weekend, it is possible to stay overnight in one of their rooms. Route des peches - Explore the beach restaurants and bars on the road adjacent to the beach West of Cotonou, including Cali Cali, La Plage by Code Bar and Zone5 Playa.

Weekend trips from Cotonou Check in with a nice resort, at a nice farm or guesthouse - Near Ouidah, the Nature Luxury Lodge offers villas at the lagoon with a shared pool and common area; and the Casa del Papa resort offers bungalows facing the sea or the lagoon, with a pool, restaurant and an activity centre. Near Allada, the Eva Lodge (former Royal Paradise Hotel) offers affordable rooms and bungalows in the countryside with a nice pool and a pool bar. On the way to Allada, the Kalaupapa - Cité Saint Damien offers visitors a quiet weekend with yoga retreats and Sunday brunches offered throughout the year. In Porto Novo, the Art Residence Hotel with its rooftop pool and Saturday night live music, offers a luxurious weekend get away, allowing you to combine a trip to Adjarra / Rivière Noire with a museum tour of Porto Novo. Abomey - UNESCO world heritage site with a number of mud-brick palaces and museums Bohicon - a city in the south of the country housing the underground village, a collection of underground caves used for the defence of Abomey Dassa - a quiet town north-east of Bohicon with granite rock formations that can be hiked or climbed, making it a popular outdoor destination allowing for great views and different scenaries