Cook Islands

Understand

History First settled by Polynesians around 1000 CE, the islands are named after Captain Cook, who sighted them in 1770. The islands became a British protectorate in 1888. By 1900, administrative control was transferred to New Zealand; in 1965 residents chose self-government in free association with New Zealand. New Zealand handles defence, foreign affairs, and currency; otherwise the islands are self-governing. This includes immigration, which is strictly controlled—even for non-Cook Island New Zealanders. However, Cook Islanders are full New Zealand citizens with right of abode in New Zealand, and carry New Zealand passports for international travel.

People Many Cook Islanders will tell you how there are more Cook Islanders living in New Zealand and Australia than in the Cook Islands. The population of the Cook Islands is 24,500 (2024), but there are 80,000 Cook Islanders living in New Zealand (2018) and 22,000 in Australia (2016). Those remaining have often spent time in Auckland, Brisbane or Sydney before returning home.

Climate The climate is tropical, moderated by trade winds. Rarotonga has average maximum temperatures of 25 °C in winter (May–October) and 29 °C in summer (November–April); temperatures in the northern islands are several degrees higher. Most rain falls in summer, usually in the form of afternoon storms. Cyclone season is November to March, but there's a large cyclone only once every five years or so.

Terrain The Northern Cook Islands are seven low-lying, sparsely populated, coral atolls. The Southern Cook Islands consist of eight elevated, fertile, volcanic isles where most of the populace lives.

Tourism Tourism facilities are well developed on Rarotonga and Aitutaki, and information is available. However you won't see a single tout, and tourist scams are unheard of. If you want to organise something, it usually isn't hard to do, but you will need to make the first move. Cook Islands tourism official website

Getting there

Visitors booking a flight to the Cook Islands must also book an onward ticket and must have a passport valid for at least 6 months beyond their departure date from the islands. The Cook Islands issue entry permits, not visas. On arrival a bona fide visitor is granted a 31-day entry permit (90 days for New Zealand passport holders), which may be extended by application to the Cook Islands Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Immigration. You may be asked for proof that you have accommodation booked. Working is not permitted. Departure tax is included in your outwards fare and no tax is paid at the point of departure.

On arrival You should have accommodation pre-arranged as there are no public camping areas in the Cook Islands and camping is actively discouraged. Most accommodators will arrange transfers from the airport.

By plane Rarotonga International Airport (RAR IATA) is the main gateway. There are daily services from Auckland (3½ hours), three a week from Sydney and Papeete, and one a week from Honolulu. The international flights are operated by Air New Zealand, Jetstar, Air Tahiti, Air Rarotonga and Hawaiian Airlines. Air New Zealand has code share arrangements with other Star Alliance members including, United Airlines, and Rarotonga is a popular stopover on round the world flights. See the Rarotonga article for airport details.

By boat Rarotonga and Aitutaki are regular stops for cruises operating from Tahiti. Other cruise companies stop by occasionally. If you're planning to sail to the islands you must enter through one of the five designated ports of entry. These are Rarotonga, Aitutaki and Atiu in the Southern group, and Penrhyn and Pukapuka in the Northern group.

Getting around

By plane Domestic inter-island service is provided by Air Rarotonga. Although you can book flights through Air New Zealand, it is usually cheaper to do so directly with Air Rarotonga. This has become much easier in the past few years, now that they offer online booking. Unless you're a member of Air New Zealand's "Airpoints Dollars" program, you won't receive any airline miles for Air Rarotonga—and then only if you book through Air New Zealand, often at a higher price. Star Alliance mileage for Air Rarotonga is not available. Most of the outer islands have only unpaved runways. However, landing won't be much rougher than that of a paved runway. If you've never landed on an unpaved runway before, it's nothing to be overly concerned about, and you've probably had a few rougher landings on a paved runway.

By boat The intrepid traveller can visit all inhabited islands by inter-island freighters, but these can be weeks apart or worse if you want to get the really remote islands. Details of services are published in local island newspapers. There are no generally scheduled boat or ferry services between the inhabited islands. There are two uninhabited islands - Takutea and Manuae. The only easy way for a visitor to get to Takutea is on the research vessel Bounty Bay operated by Rarotonga-based Pacific Expeditions, which has special permission to run occasional eco tours.

See

One of the cultural shows/dancing at one of the larger resorts.

Cook Island Christian Church, Rarotonga The CICC is a fine old white-coral building, much in the same mould as other CICCs in the Cooks. It was built in 1853, when Aaron Buzacott was the resident missionary. Travellers are welcome to attend services but are expected to dress respectfully. Anatakitaki, Aitu The most famous of the many caves on Atiu, which is riddled with limestone caverns complete with stalactites and stalagmites, is Anatakitaki, also known as the 'Kopeka Cave'. A hauntingly large and beautiful cave, it is the home of the kopeka, a rare bird, similar to a swift, which lives only on Atiu. Beachcomber Gallery, Rarotonga One of the best arts and crafts galleries on the island, the Beachcomber Gallery has a great selection of jewellery, carvings, pearls, craftwork and paintings locally sourced in the islands. You can sometimes visit the workshop behind the main building to see how the black-pearl jewellery and shell carvings are made. Sir Geoffrey Henry National Culture Centre, Rarotonga Conceived by former prime minister Sir Geoffrey Henry, the National Culture Centre comprises six cultural divisions: the National Auditorium, the National Museum, the National Library, the National Archives, Performing Arts, and the Anthropology Unit. A number of government ministries are also based here.

Do

Scuba Diving & Snorkelling, Rarotonga The Cook Islands is a beautiful place to explore both on land and in water. Scuba diving & snorkeling is available inside the calm protected waters of the lagoon as well as outside the reef in the open ocean. There are dive sites all around the island of Rarotonga which host an incredible amount of tropical reef fish as well as larger animals such as turtles, eagle rays, eels and reef sharks such as White Tips, Grey Reefs and Hammerheads, in addition to the beautiful hard coral formations, sa