Cochabamba

Understand

History Cochabamba's history is long and colorful with the indigenous population having inhabited the Cochabamba Valley for millennia. Indigenous peoples in the area included Tiwanaku, Tupuraya, Mojocoya, Omereque, and, at the time the Spanish arrived, the Inca. Cochabamba was an important agricultural community, and the Inca used it as a source of maize (corn). During the Spanish colonial era, the city continued to be an agricultural hub, providing food and wood to nearby mining communities. Cochabamba was established as a Spanish city in 1571. Early rumblings of discontent with the Spanish government arose in the 1780s, and in 1812, a major uprising took place in the city. When confronted by Spanish troops, most of the city's men fled into the countryside while the women took up arms against the Spanish. Water became a political hot potato during the 1990s. The World Bank and International Monetary Fund forced Bolivia to privatize their water supplies if it were to get foreign investment. Unethical foreign corporations joined the unethical NGOs in abusing the Bolivian people, hiking water rates to unaffordable levels while providing inadequate supplies to many communities. Public revolts in Cochabamba and other Bolivian cities extended well into the 21st century. The "Water Wars" erupted into violence between 2006 and 2008 and are often credited for the rise in power of Evo Morales, forcing Bolivia to rescind privatization contracts. Water continues to be a controversial topic in Cochabamba and other Bolivian cities.

Climate Cochabamba is often described as a "city of eternal spring" due to its pleasantly cool temperatures that rarely reach freezing. The humidity is generally low with rain so sparse that it creates problems with inadequate water to support the population. Cochabamba has a wet season that runs from November through March while the driest months are May through September.

Orientation The main thoroughfare in Cochabamba is Avenida de las Heroinas, which runs east-west, with its north-south counterpart Avenida Ayacucho. The intersection of these two is known as El Correo (the post office is located on that intersection). Plaza 14 de Septiembre is considered the center of the city. Avenida Ballivian, commonly called El Prado, is a tree-lined boulevard running north from Plaza Colon, with many of the city's better restaurants and hotels nearby. Generally, neighborhoods get more affluent towards the north, and poorer to the south. Avenida América north of La Recoleta runs east to west is also a major avenue with many restaurants a

Getting there

By bus The terminal is some 10 blocks south of the center, just north of the market called La Cancha. From the north, you can catch several trufi lines to get to the bus terminal. For example, the green 101, the 102, the 103, the 109, all travel along Av. Ayacucho, passing the bus terminal. At the north end of the terminal, there are radio taxis associated with the terminal. These are much more convenient to get to your destination. If you are traveling with a lot of luggage, it is not recommended that you exit the main terminal to catch a bus. It's quite hectic making you an easier target for pickpocketing. It is also not recommended walking from the terminal especially late at night. Most bus companies will charge around the same amount for a ticket, but there are different seat classes. Weirdly enough, even though it is a poor country, the amount of "leito" seats (aka cama) is far higher than that of semi-cama or regular seats. Bus times are generally quite accurate, because the station is so busy that buses cannot wait forever at a platform. Arrive about 1 hr before the bus leaves to get the best price. Always be aware of roadblocks while traveling in Bolivia. If companies know of existing roadblocks, many of them will halt their services, while others will take you as far as the roadblock, and you'll have to pay again after crossing the roadblock. It's always recommended to wait for a roadblock to be lifted before traveling, even if a bus will take you that far.

Destinations From/to La Paz – It is at least eight hours by bus. Buses leave approximately every hour starting at 06:30, with the last bus leaving around 23:00. Regular seats tend to be at around Bs. 30, semi-camas typically will max out at Bs. 60., and camas will typically max out at Bs. 90. From/to Santa Cruz – It is at least ten hours by bus, longer in the rainy season. Buses leave in the mornings and in the evenings, with the last bus typically leaving around 22:00. Regular seats tend to be at Bs. 40., semi-camas typically will be at Bs. 70., and camas will typically be at Bs. 110. From/to Sucre – It is at least ten hours by bus. Buses only leave in the afternoons and evenings, with the last bus typically leaving between 21:00 and 22:00. Much of this road is unpaved, and it can be a quite uncomfortable and cold ride. Expect to pay maximum Bs. 60. for this trip. From/to Oruro – It is a relatively quick four to five hours. Buses leave throughout the day and are relatively inexpensive. Bs. 20-30 will get you there on a semi-cama. From/to Potosí – It is at least 10 hr by bus. Buses only

Getting around

By bus

Cochabamba has buses (micros), mini-vans (trufis) and shared cabs (taxi-trufis) that run along fixed routes. There are no set stops and in order to get off, you must say "me bajo" (I want to get off) or "esquina" (for stop at the corner). Fares are Bs. 3 (Apr 2026). (Many drivers do not have adequate change, so do not be surprised if you do not receive change).

By taxi Most cars honking at you are cabs. Ask and negotiate the fare before entering a cab. According to regulations that aren't very well publicized (some mentions in the local press), the price should be Bs. 6 for one person within the city center (inside the boundaries of the river). Crossing the bridges, adds another Bs. 2. Adding additional passengers should cost between Bs. 1 and Bs. 2/person. Downtown to Quillacollo is Bs. 25-30 There is no standard fare, and most taxi drivers will try to overcharge tourists. If you are in a radio taxi (with a company logo on the side of the car), you can ask the driver to call into the dispatcher to quote you the official price. There is a municipal governmental toll-free phone number to report overcharging - 800-14-0201 It's recommended to take radio taxis in the evenings. There is no additional charge to call a taxi to come pick you up.

Radio taxi companies Ciudad Jardín, Uyuni Avenue #731, ☏ +591 4 4241111, [email protected]. Ciudad Jardín typically feature more modern cars, and have placards inside of the vehicle with the driver's name and ID number. They have an app for mobile devices to request services. Renacer, Papa Paulo Avenue #491, ☏ +591 4 4200555. Renacer operates primarily out of the Muyurina area. Jacarandá, Lucas Mendoza Street #612, ☏ +591 4 4200136. Jacarandá operates primarily out of the Cala Cala neighborhood.

See

1 Cristo de la Concordia, Av de la Concordia. The statue is just a bit higher and larger than the one in Rio de Janeiro, making it the world's largest statue of Jesus until 2010, when a larger one was completed in Poland. It offers a great view of the city. Walk Calle Colombia until its eastern end, then a swift right: This park/playground is where the cable car goes from, Bs. 6.50 each way. You can also walk. The stairs are safe during the day. After sunset it is better to go in a group of 4 or more. However, the warning displayed at the cable car station, not to use the stairs, is obviously just there to make more money. The cable car is often under maintenance. There is no good way to know before heading out to the station, but the local newspaper is pretty good about updating any changes. (updated Sep 2020) 2 Martín Cárdenas Botanical Garden. M-Sa 09:00-16:30, closed Su. Display of native and non-native flora. (updated Sep 2020) 3 Medical Museum, Av. Oquendo y Calle Venezuela. The main hospital in Cochabamba, Hospital Viedma, has a cute little medical museum attached, with some amazing old x-ray machines. The museum is near the corner of Venezuela and Oquendo. 4 Museo Archeologico, Jordan esq. Aguirre. Awesome archeological museum with mummies, deformed skulls, amazing pottery and other artifacts. Well worth a visit. Bs. 25. 5 Museo Convento Santa Teresa (~2 blocks southwest of Plaza Colon, on Calle Baptista), ☏ +591 4 4525765. M-Sa 08:00-12:00 14:00-18:00, closed Su. 1760 convent that is restored for viewing. (updated Sep 2020) 6 Natural History Museum "Alcide d'Orbigny", Calle Potosi, Recoleta (Next door to Palacio Portales), ☏ +591 4 4486969. M-F 09:00-12:00 15:00-18:00, closed Sa-Su. 7 Parque de la Familia. Dancing fountain light show at night. Occurs from around 20:00-22:00 and small entrance fee. (updated Sep 2020) 8 Plaza Colon, Calle San Martin & Calle Mayor Rocha. Cochabamba's other popular square, next to city hall, and a little greener than Plaza de Armas, 14 de Septiembre. (updated Sep 2020) 9 Plaza de Armas, September 14, Bolivar and Plaza 14 de Septiembre. City center, site of commemoration of Bolivia's independence, where you can feed the pigeons and look at the Metropolitan Catedral of Saint Sebastian. (updated Sep 2020) 10 Plaza de Las Banderas. If you are interested in seeing different flags of the world on display, this might be of interest. But it makes for a pleasant stop if walking along the prado, and sometimes there are arts and crafts on display. (updated Sep 2020) 11 Simón I. Patiño Cultural Center (Centro Pedagógico y C

Do

Cable cars

1 Teleférico (Cable Car), ☏ +591 4 4446866. Tu-W 10:00-18:00, Th-Sa 10:00-19:00, Su 09:00-18:00, closed M. Cable car to the top of Cristo de la Concordia peak. (updated Sep 2020)

Entertainment 2 Cinecenter (Just north of Plaza Quintanilla), ☏ +591 64876494. The biggest cinema in town features a handful of showrooms mostly flashing the latest Hollywood fare, and a food court. (updated May 2018) 3 mARTadero, Ollantay esq. 27 de Agosto, ☏ +591 4 4588778. A great arts and performance center based in an old slaughterhouse. They have rotating art exhibits, music performances, and other interesting stuff. 4 Parque Mariscal Santa Cruz, Calle Hernan Morales. Tu-F 10:00-19:00, Sa-M 10:00-19:30. Small park with amusement rides, concrete caricatures, and aquarium. May be of particular interest to kids but a bit neglected and dirty at times. (updated Sep 2020)

Festivals Bienal de Arte Urbano (BAU): week-long celebration of murals, graffiti and other kinds of contemporary urban art with a focus on social action; the festival takes place in late April or early May every 2 years on odd-numbered years (the next festival will be 2027).

Sports Cochabamba has two first division football teams, Jorge Wilstermann and Aurora, which play at 5 Felix Capriles Stadium located on Avenida Libertador Bolívar (at the end of El Prado crossing the Cala Cala bridge). Matches usually take place on Sunday afternoons, as well as some weekday evenings. Matches rarely sell out, and one can buy a ticket the day of the game choosing among different seating sections. "Preferencia" is the most expensive, around Bs. 50-80 per match (depending on the rival), but for afternoon matches its location has the most shade. The supporter groups for Wilstermann are seated in the middle portion of both endzone (curvas). The city is Bolivia's paragliding capital. Several agencies offer tandem flights (Bs. 300) and courses. A typical beginner´s course will take minimum 10 days (2 hours theory and 4 hours practice every day, 12 solo flights) and cost about Bs. 3,000. Among the cheapest on the continent.

AndeseXtremo. Andes Extremo is an excellent choice for paragliding and also offers other outdoor activities including rock climbing. You can book a tandem flight with a fantastic view on the Cochabamba valley for about Bs. 350. One of their rock climbing options is in Quarry Angostura, which will cost you US$45 per person for 1 day (half day) with a minimum of 2 people. The difficulty level is 5a-6c.

Beyond the city

There are some towns and places around Cochabamba worth visiting a

Buy

1 La Cancha (bound by: Av. Aroma, Av. Ayacucho, Av. 6 de Agosto, Av. República, and Av. Oquendo). One of the city's biggest attractions, the city market on the south side of town and the largest open-air market in South America. Clothing, food, souvenirs, or books, the Cancha has it all. The best day to visit the market is on Saturday, on other days not all the shops are open. Pickpockets are fairly common in this area. (updated Jan 2025) If you don't want to get knee-deep into the sprawling Cancha for your souvenirs, there is also a small pasaje behind the Post Office. You can enter from Av. Heroínas Avenue or Esteban Arze. Prices are comparable to La Cancha and you can pick up typical Cochabamba goods.

2 Paseo Aranjuez, Avenida América y Pantaleón Dalence, [email protected]. Stylistically modern commercial center, food court, and art gallery. (updated Jan 2025) 3 The Spitting Llama Bookstore & Outfitter, 615 Calle España Norte (between streets La Paz and Reza). Offers offers a wide range of trekking, camping equipment and gear. (updated Jan 2025)

Eat

Lunchtime usually consists of a fixed menu at a number of restaurants or pensiones around time. The "almuerzo completo" consists of soup + main dish and often an appetizer and dessert. There are many options to find the menu displayed outside the door, usually consisting of your choice of two soups or 2-3 main dishes. This fixed menu varies in price depending on the part of town, and could run between Bs. 15-25. Silpancho is traditional Bolivian dish that supposedly originates from Cochabamba. Thanks to the city's origin as an agricultural center for mining communities, Cochabamba claims to have the best food in Bolivia.

1 Bufalo's Rodizio, Avenida Oquendo N. 0654 (The entrance is through the elevator found on the right as you enter the shopping mall). A Brazilian churasco style restaurant where the waiters comes to your table with a good selection of freshly grilled meats. Delicious. Note that there is only the choice of a buffet style dinner in the evenings, priced very reasonable. Bs. 85 for all you can eat. (updated Jul 2020) 2 Casa de Campo, Av. Uyuni 618. One of the upscale restaurants in Recoleta. Large plates of food (even the half-plate was too much) and good pique macho and other local dishes. Price range is Bs. 37-50. Probably one of the best restaurants in town. Highly recommended. (updated Jan 2025) 3 Dumbo, Av. Heroinas E-0354, also El Prado 55. Bolivia's favorite family restaurant. The main joint on Heroinas is always packed, with four dining floors and enough dancers in animal suits to keep the entire juvenile population of Cochabamba entertained. (updated Jan 2025) 4 Heladeria Cristal, Av. de las Heroinas E-352 (Between 25 de Mayo and España). Very neat and clean. Good breakfasts Bs. 15-21, set lunch Bs. 16. 5 Jacaranda, Tadeo Haenke. Not near the city center at all, but it has the reputation of best charque joint in town. Some people say that you can't leave Cochabamba without trying the charque, though it does really just taste like fried beef jerky. Charque is llama meat which is dried, then baked in the oven, then fried for the ultimate crispiness. The half-plate at Jacaranda comes with at least a pound of dried llama jerky, 2 boiled eggs, and the tastiest choclo (oooh the cheese slab was so thick and crumbly). The half-plate was about a 5-inch high pile, ran Bs. 50 and feeds a normal-sized person for lunch and dinner. 6 La Estancia, La Recoleta (Av. Uyuni). Upscale and pleasant Argentinian steak place. Portions aren't of the legendary Cochabamba size, but rather of the normal steak-portion size. Word is that the salad bar is amaz

Drink & nightlife

The best chicha, fermented corn (or peach) based beverage, is said to come from the Cochabamba region. The small town of Punata, some distance to the southwest, is especially well-known. Please note that not all chicherías have the same hygienic standards.

1 Cafe Paris, NE corner of Plaza 14 de Septiembre (Corner of Bolivar and 25 de Mayo). Parisian style café with both filling and sweet crepes as well as a good coffee. Very reliable WiFi available too. Coffees Bs. 4-17.

Nightlife Most small bars are on 25 de Mayo and España close to Plaza Colon. Av. Ballivian (Prado) has bigger and noisier stuff. The joints grow fancier and more expensive has you head north into Recoleta, centred on Calle Pando.

2 Cerebrito, Calle España (Between Colombia and Ecuador). Evenings. After school hangout for 18-25s. Star Wars decor. Rock music. Cheap dinners. Probably the most colourful range of shots in the country. Bottoms up! 1 l of beer Bs. 15. 3 Lujo's Discoteca, Calle Beni (Almost on the corner of Santa Cruz). Until sunrise on weekends. Full dance floor, mostly classics, i.e. reggaeton. Entry Bs. 10-15, pint of beer Bs. 10. 4 Panchos, Calle Mayor Rocha (Between España and 25 de Mayo). Starts out as a bar, turns into a club. Mostly Latin music. 1 l beer Bs. 15. 5 Picasso's, Calle España (Between Equador and Mayro Rocha). Nice warm up venue. Tables, bar, play dice. 1 l beer Bs. 15.

Sleep

Budget 1 Hostal Bonaerense (Hostal Buenos Aires), Calle 25 de Mayo 329 (Half a block from Plaza Colon), ☏ +591 4 425 3911, fax: +591 4 452 2719, [email protected]. Excellent location. Very thin walls. In-house restaurant. Single, shared bath Bs. 40, with bath Bs. 60. 2 Hostal Jardin, Calle Hamiraya N-0258 (Between Equador and Colombia), ☏ +591 4 4525356. Check-out: 12:00. Fairly quiet, some long-termers, popular among Brazilians. You might share water pressure with you neighbours and the rooms smell strongly of cleaning fluid everyday. Small breakfast consisting of bread and tea included. Safe parking. And, yes, there is a garden here. If you stay for 10 days in a row, you can get a discount to Bs. 25 per day for a single with shared bath. Single, shared bath, Bs. 35, with bath Bs. 40. 3 Hotel Los Angeles, Ave. Esteban Arze 345 (between Jordán and Sucre), ☏ +591 4 450-0800. Decent budget hotel in a passable location, a solid 3-4 dark blocks from many of the restaurants and bars on Calle España. Singles Bs. 70, doubles Bs. 120, with bath and breakfast. It competes with the Hotel Las Vegas (similar prices and standard) across the street for the cheesiest norteamericano decor. 4 Running Chaski, Calle España #449 casi calle México, ☏ +591 4 4250559, [email protected]. Newer hostel, with a great location along c/ España. Pricier than most other options you'll find in town at Bs. 75-90 per night for dorms, but it seems to be much cleaner and better maintained than typical in Cochabamba. There are dozens and dozens of hotels and hostales between the bus terminal and the center (Plaza 14 de Septiembre). This area is not very safe late at night, however, and these options should only really be considered if none of the above are available. Always take a cab back to these locations after dark.

5 Hostal Elisa, Calle Augustin Lopez S-834. Small, but neat rooms, around a cozy courtyard. Expensive internet. Single, shared bath, Bs. 35, with bath Bs. 70. Breakfast extra. 6 Hostal Kanata, Ayacucho 941, [email protected]. Has clean doubles for Bs. 60 (Bs. 20 more for a TV), though a not too friendly staff. (updated Jan 2025) 7 Residencial Cristo de Concordia, Av. Aroma E-437 casi San Martin (Between Main Plaza and Bus Terminal), ☏ +591 4 4257131, [email protected]. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Not such a good location, can be very dangerous at night and is recommended to take a taxi to and from hostel, laundry service, helpful staff. Single/Double with bath Bs. 65/90.

Mid-range Many of the upper-end hotels are concentrated wi

Go next

Punata – A market on Tuesday with a lot of indigenous people selling animals. Tarata – Nice picturesque town that can make an easy day trip. Quillacollo – Known for its Fiesta de la Virgen de Urkupiña (August 15). Chapare Region – National Park Isiboro Sécure and local indigenous communities, you can stay with for several days. Torotoro National Park – Popular with travellers that head to Cochabamba for its dinosaur foot prints, large cave and hiking opportunities. The (mini)buses leave hourly or when full (06:00-18:00, ☏ +591 70786818) from the 2 Torotoro Bus "station" in the south of Cochabamba. Iquique, Chile – There are direct buses, some with a transfer in Oruro. Keep in mind that the border to Chile opens at 08:00. So, it makes little sense to leave at 16:00 from Cochabamba. Waiting time at the border can extend this trip up to 23 hr(!). From Iquique you will have several connections to Santiago.