Chittagong

Understand

Chittagong is one of the great port cities of Asia. It flourished on the Maritime Silk Road and was the eastern terminus of the Grand Trunk Road. It was visited by famous medieval explorers like the Venetians Niccolo de Conti and Caeser Frederick; the Arab traveller Ibn Battuta; and the Chinese admiral Zheng He. The Portuguese, Mughals and British controlled the port in successive periods until the 20th century. It became a major financial centre and the largest port in modern-day Bangladesh after the Partition of British India. Today, Chittagong is a fairly large metropolitan area with a population of about 6.5 million. As in Dhaka, its streets are filled with masses of rickshaws. Rolling hills and greenery dot the landscape. The Karnaphuli River is a burgeoning hub of shipping. Chittagong puts in a little more effort than other Bangladeshi cities to keep its streets and sidewalks clean. The city's residents are called Chittagonians. Foreigners will notice a distinct increase in nuisance from beggars in certain intersections, like the Central Railway Station. Beggars come from different parts of Bangladesh because Chittagonians are more prone to charity than people in other parts of the country. The old quarter of the city is home to several historic mosques and Sufi shrines. The Anderkilla Imperial Jame Mosque was built by the Mughals after they conquered Chittagong in 1666. It once formed part of a large hilltop fort. The Sufi Shrine of Bayazid Bostami has a pond full of turtles. The former Portuguese settlement is located in Patherghatta. It is home to the descendants of Portuguese traders, who are known locally as Firingis. The area has several churches, including the Roman Catholic Diocese of Chittagong. Chittagong is also the seat of the Bengali Buddhist priesthood. The busiest parts of the city are Station Road, Strand Road, GEC Circle and O.R. Nizam Road. The affluent neighborhoods of Khulshi and Nasirabad are home to the city's middle and upper classes. Chittagong has many influential business families. The city is home to prominent gentlemen's clubs, restaurants and golf courses. The Chittagonian enthusiasm for inviting people to massive feasts is a bit of legend both locally and elsewhere. Known as mezbani these feasts feature a tremendously hot curry, usually of beef. If you're not used to it, approach with caution. You might also be able to find some of the world's best lobsters here, as Chittagong is the center of the Bangladeshi seafood industry.

Climate

Chittagong has a tropical monsoon climate: hot and very humid during the summer m

Getting there

By plane 1 Shah Amanat International Airport (CGP IATA) is served by most major domestic and many international air carriers as the second largest and busiest international airport in Bangladesh. It has flights from Kolkata, Kuala Lumpur, Doha, Dubai, Bangkok, Muscat, Abu Dhabi, Sharjah and Kuwait. Domestic services include several daily flights with Dhaka. For departing flights:

Allow plenty of time for security screening, especially on those days when major conventions end. Or if possible schedule your flight at another day/time. To travel between the airport and your Strip hotel:

Taxis cost Tk 200–500 from the airport to a Strip location. Autos cost Tk 100–250 from the airport to a Strip location. Buses cost Tk 5-30 each way and depart every 10–20 minutes, sometimes more than an hour.

By train 2 Chittagong Railway Station Trains run to Dhaka, Sylhet, Mymensingh and other cities. The main route out of Chittagong runs north to Comilla and Akhaura, from where the routes to Dhaka and Sylhet diverge. The train station is on Station Road just west of Jubilee Road. Chittagong is a terminal station on the metre gauge eastern section of the Bangladeshi Railway. The headquarters of this railway are located here. Train journeys are, in general, cheaper than bus journeys. The best bet for a tourist is to make reservations at the station or a travel agency. Trains are popular so book in advance.

By bus There are 2 spots in the city where the major 'private companies operate from and have offices - just to the south of GEC Circle on CDA Ave, and on Station Road near Hotel Golden Inn. Greenline, Silkline and Shohag are the nicest and have frequent services to Dhaka (Tk 1200, 6-8 hours) and Cox's Bazar (3-4 hours). Greenline also offers the only direct bus to Sylhet (Tk 550, 7-8 hours). Local buses to Cox's Bazar (৳140, 3-4 hours) run frequently throughout the day from Cinema Palace Bus Station, about 1 km north of the Station Rd area.

1 Bangladesh Road Transport Corporation (BRTC), Station Road, ☏ +880-2-8357757. BRTC operates the International Bus Service twice daily with Kolkata and scheduled services with Agartala 2 Shohagh Paribahan, Zakir Hossain Road, ☏ +880 1711 798344. Daily services with Dhaka, Sylhet, Khulna, Cox's Bazaar, Jessore and Kolkata. 3 Green Line Paribahan, Zakir Hossain Road, ☏ +880 2 8331302-4. Daily services with Dhaka, Kolkata, Sylhet, Cox's Bazaar, Khulna and Bogra. Chittagong Bus Depot, ☏ +0880 31 683423. Station Road at Batali Road, across from the Old Railway Terminal. Chittagong is the eastern terminus of the Grand Trunk R

Getting around

Getting around in Chittagong is always an adventure. Traffic is, by and large, horribly congested and many drivers will think nothing of quoting ten times the going price to a tourist. Agree on prices before setting off. Transport in Chittagong is similar to that of the country's capital Dhaka. There are various bus systems with different routes, taxis, and smaller 'CNG' taxis which are basically tricycle-structured motor vehicles. Also, traditional manual rickshaws are very common.

By foot Walking is also a possibility as the town isn't too confusing, but keep an eye out as the streets can be very busy, especially around Station Rd and Jubilee Rd. If travelling along the Strip, walking is a reasonable option as the hotel-casinos are close to each other. However, what may look to be a short walk of only a couple of hotel casinos away may be farther than you expected as the resorts often look closer than they are due to their large size.

By bicycle Many locals of lower classes often use bicycles as a primary form of transport. They can be useful in their ability to squeeze through tight situations, where traffic may prevent a large vehicle from moving. Some newer roads in the capital have dual bike/rickshaw lanes. Although, there is little opportunity to buy or rent a bike, plus the roads and traffic are in such bad condition that the chance of an accident is high.

By rickshaws Rickshaws are a kind of three-wheeled, pedal-powered cycle with seats in the back to seat passengers and a driver in the front. They are good for short distances, or places which are too far to walk but too short for taking a bus/taxi/auto-rickshaw. Rickshaws don't use meters, so establish a price before getting on. Tk 20-100 is reasonable for most journeys of a few kilometres.

By bus All parts of Chittagong are well connected by buses and with tickets ranging from Tk 5-50 (Tk 1.42/per km), are very cheap; but also quite crowded most of the time. Some buses are provided air-conditioned service. As bus stops do not have bus routes written properly, it can be difficult to find your way. Asking other people at the bus stop is often the best way to find out about bus routes to your destination. However, the buses are pretty frequent, running every 15-20 min or so on most routes. There is one kind of bus in Chittagong: Route 1: 3 New Market Bus Stand to 4 Bahaddarhat Bus Terminal

Total distance 10 km; New Market – Laldighi – Anderkilla – Nabab Siraj Ud Dawla Road – Chowk Bazaar – Kapasgola – Badurtola – Bahaddarhat Route 2: New Market Bus Stand to 5 Kaptai Rastar Matha Bus

See

Downtown 1 BNS Issa Khan, New Mooring, Chittagong, ☏ +1 880-31-740391, +1 880-31-714971. Largest naval base of the Bangladeshi Navy. Before the Bangladesh Liberation War, as PNS Bakhtiar, the base was awarded the National Standard by the President of Pakistan. (updated Aug 2019) 2 Chittagong Buddhist Monastery, Nandan Kanan. It is considered as one of the holy places of Buddhists in Bangladesh. There are Kesdhatu of Gautama Buddha, Ashtadhatu statue, Bodhimandap, Chintamani Library, Buddhist Hostel, Dhammavansh Institute, Medical Center, etc. There is a library called Echarao Chintamani Library which contains various rare manuscripts. (updated May 2023) 3 Chittagong Zoo, Foy's Lake, South Khulshi (at the entrance of Foy's lake, opposite the foothills of the mountains of USTC Medical College). With an area of 6 acres of land, the zoo is about 3 km north-east of the city. Major exhibits are Indian lion, Asian black bear, Indian muntjac, Chital. (updated Jul 2017) 4 J M Sen Hall (Jatra Mohon Sen Hall), K B Abdus Sattar Road. In 1916 Saratchandra Rai Bahadur laid the foundation stone of the first Town Hall named JM Sen Hall. The auditorium is named in memory of Jatramohan Sen, a Bengali lawyer, politician and social activist. There is a club here. There are also busts of Masterda Surya Sen, one of the revolutionary leaders of the anti-British freedom struggle, Jatindramohan, a famous politician in the subcontinent, Mahimchandra Das, a journalist, lawyer and politician, Nelly Sengupta, one of the pioneers of Chittagong's women's movement. (updated Jul 2017)

Architectures 5 Anderkilla Shahi Jame Mosque, Anderkilla. Andarqilla Shahi Jame Masjid was built after the conquest of Chittagong by the Mughals in 1666, on a small hill about 10 m (33 ft) above the plain. The architecture and structure of the mosque are made according to the Mughal style. According to the design of the original mosque, it is 16 m long, 6.9 m wide, and each wall is about 2.2 m thick. The western wall is made of burnt mud and the remaining three walls are made of stone. The roof is covered by a large dome in the middle and two smaller domes. Of its four octagonal towers, built in 1666, the rear two now exist. As the mosque is almost a reflection of the historical Jama Masjid of Delhi in terms of construction strategy, it gave birth to a new dimension in the development of Muslim architecture in the Chittagong region. This mosque is also called a stone mosque - "Jame Sangin" because it is built using large stones like Delhi's Jama Masjid. (updated Jul 2023) 6 Chandanpura Nachghar, Chan

Do

There are a few amusement parks and public parks in Chittagong:

1 Batali Hill (Zilapi Hill), Tigerpass (about 1 km from the center of the city). The tallest hill in the city of Chittagong is about 280 feet high. From its summit, the Bay of Bengal and large parts of Chittagong city can be clearly seen. During World War II, anti-aircraft guns were placed on top of the hill. Many years ago there was a lighthouse on the hill to guide ships sailing on distant seas. It is a good place to see the city from above. (updated May 2023)

Fishing Go fishing for Anabas, Cat fish, Ruhi, Tilapia etc.

2 Agrabad Deba, Agrabad. Artificial lake in Agrabad, Chittagong. The total area of the reservoir including banks is 27.4 acres. Deba is mainly owned by Bangladesh Railways. (updated Jul 2017)

Rides 3 Foy's Lake Concord (Foy's Lake Amusement World), Foy's Lake, Zakir Hossain Rd (in the Pahartali neighborhood), ☏ +880 1969-953551, [email protected]. 10AM-7:30PM. A theme park complex covering nearly 320 acres at Foy's Lake. The complex consists of a dry theme park, a water park, and Foy's Lake Resort. It was established in 2004. Tk 480. (updated Jul 2023) 4 Karnaphuli Shishu Park, Jamboree Field Road, Agrabad. 3-8PM. Entertainment place located in the heart of the city. The earlier name of this garden was Jamburi Field. Chukchuk Car, Voyager Boat, Medi Godown, Race Godown, Racing Car, Swing and other entertainment facilities are available here. In addition, there are mini Chinese hotels, cooling corners, and various souvenir shops. The main gate of the park, modelled after Disney Land, attracts everyone. Tk 40/pp entry. (updated Jul 2017) 5 Chittagong Shishu Park, Circuit House. 3-8PM. Tk 40/pp entry. (updated Jul 2017)

Shows

There are places where you can buy show tickets, but generally not for the really popular shows on the same day of the performance. Most were only cash accepted.

Performing arts 6 Bistaar: Chittagong Arts Complex (Bistaar), 688/C, Mehdibag Road, ☏ +880 1713109940, [email protected]. Multidisciplinary and multipurpose industrial facility centre. A contemporary space to showcase the art and culture of the city. There are galleries and event spaces, music and film archives, souvenir shops and food and beverage cafes. (updated Jul 2023) 7 Theatre Institute Chattagram, K.C. Dey Road. TIC is a cultural performing art centre in Chittagong. It is the theatre hall of fine and performing arts. The institute is organized and controlled by the City Corporation of the district. Tk 50-200. (updated Jul 2023) 8 Zilla Shilpakala Academy, MM Ali Road, Dampa

Buy

Sales tax The local sales tax is 15%. Only groceries and prescription drugs are exempt. Like most of the city, Chittagong has not implemented a tax refund mechanism for international travelers. The only retailers that can sell tax-free items to international travelers are the duty-free shops at Shah Amanat International Airport.

Basics Most hotel/casino resort complexes in Chittagong have a gift shop open 24/7 that offers basic traveler supplies and sundries. Hotel gift shops are outrageously expensive and should be avoided except for emergencies.

Shopping malls There are a handful of shopping malls:

1 Afmi Plaza, Baizid Bostami Road, Panchlaish, East Nasirabad. Tu-Sa 10AM-9PM, M 2-9PM. (updated Jul 2017) 2 Akhtaruzzaman Centre, Sheikh Mujib Road. M-Sa 10AM-10PM. (updated Jul 2017) 3 Ameen Center, 320 CDA Avenue, Lalkhan Bazar. M-Sa 10AM-9PM. (updated Jul 2017) 4 Banani Complex Shopping Centre, 942/A, Sheikh Mujib Road, ☏ +880 31 711435. 24 hours. 5 Central Shopping Complex, 561 OR Nizam Road. Sa-Tu 10AM-10PM. (updated Jul 2017) 6 Finlay Square, 2 CDA Avenue, East Nasirabad. 10AM-9PM. (updated Jul 2017) 7 Keari Elysium Shopping Complex, Rashik Hajari Lane, ☏ +880 1820 058320. Sa-Th 10AM-10PM. (updated Jul 2017) 8 Lucky Plaza, Agrabad Access Road, Agrabad. Su-Th 9AM-9PM, Sa 2-9PM. (updated Jul 2017) 9 Mimi Super Market, O R Nizam Road. Tu-Sa 10AM-9PM, M 2-9PM. (updated Jul 2017) 10 Sanmar Ocean City, CDA Avenue, Nasirabad. W-M 10AM-10PM. (updated Jul 2017) 11 Singapore Bangkok Market, Agrabad Access Road, Agrabad, ☏ +880 1818 269935. M-F 10AM-9PM. (updated Jul 2017) 12 South Land Center, Agrabad Access Road, Agrabad. M-Sa 9AM-9PM. (updated Jul 2017) 13 VIP Tower, Chatteswari Road. M-F 10AM-9PM. (updated Jul 2017)

Outlet malls 14 Agora Super Shop, Afmi Plaza, 1/A, Baizid Bostami Road, Panchlaish, ☏ +88 02 9888441. (updated Jul 2017) 15 Aarong Sholoshahar, Biman Bhaban (first floor), 1/2, CDA Avenue, Sholoshahar, Nasirabad, ☏ +880 31 2555112. M-Sa 10AM-11PM. (updated Jul 2017) 16 Aarong Halishahar, Lane #1, Road #1, House #1, Block #L, Halishahar H/A, ☏ +880 31 2515644. Su-F 10AM-11PM. (updated Jul 2017) 17 Thami Afmi Plaza Outlet, Shop #248, Afmi Plaza, Probortok Circle, ☏ +880 31 2554248. Tu-Sa 10AM-9PM, M 2:30–9PM. (updated Jul 2017)

Individual stores The Bangladeshi book industry is huge, producing annually about thousand of books in English, and obviously far more in Bengali and other native languages. Chittagong is the hub of this industry, so small, specialist bookstores abound. Locally produced books can be very inex

Eat

The people of Chittagong love oily and spicy food. This can be a problem for foreigners and lead to upset stomachs. If you are a foreigner you should consider sticking with better restaurants and eating in large hotels. Never eat green salad which comes with your meal as you will not know if it has been washed in sanitized water. Just a handful of restaurants in town use sanitized water to wash salad and this is a recipe for explosive diarrhea. One oddity in Bangladesh is that restaurants advertise themselves as, for example, "Zaman Hotel and Restaurant" but do not operate a hotel. Where you eat at one of these establishments you can tease them by demanding a room. One-room stores also have signboards advertising themselves as 'department stores'.

1 Ambrosia Restaurant Ltd, Jiban Bima Bhaban (Ground Floor), 1053, Sk. Mujib Road (Next to Radio Station and Opposite to Standard Chartered Bank Branch), ☏ +880 31 2513576, fax: +880 31 2513460. Buffet lunch noon-4PM; dinner 6-11PM. The largest and the latest international standard restaurant in town with a Karaoke corner, seats up to 500 people across 2 floors. Has a huge menu of Continental, Indian, Thai, Chinese, Indonesian and Bangladeshi dishes. Fully air conditioned and tiptop. 2 Barcode Cafe, 62-East Nasirabad, Bayazid Bostami Road, ☏ +88 031-2558551, +88 031-653558, [email protected]. Tu-Sa 9AM-11:30PM. (updated May 2019) 3 Barcode Cafe (GEC), GEC, Sekender Plaza, 815, CDA Avenue, Dampara, ☏ +880 31653558, +880 1713121212, fax: +880 1919444444, [email protected]. (updated May 2019) 4 Barcode On Fire, Ramna Trade Center, CDA Ave, ☏ +880 31653558, +880 1713121212, fax: +880 31650153, [email protected]. (updated May 2019) 5 Baskin Robbins (Agrabad), Agrabad. 8AM-11PM. Ice cream parlor (updated Jul 2017) 6 Baskin Robbins (CDA Aveneu), CDA Aveneu. 8AM-11PM. Ice cream parlor (updated Jul 2017) 7 Basmati Restaurant, CDA Ave, GEC Circle, ☏ +880 31 651201. 10AM-10PM. It provides Bangladeshi and Indian food with a classy environment. 8 BIR Chattala, Ramna Trade Center, CDA Ave, ☏ +880 31-2558551, +880 31653558, fax: +880 31650153, [email protected]. (updated May 2019) 9 Bonjour, 1692 N1, GEC circle, 2nd & 3rd floor, ☏ +880 1714-041184. Noon-10:30PM. International standard, large menu with buffet, recommended for foreigners who need a break from an upset stomach. Mains Tk 600. 10 Burgwich town, SKS shopping complex, Mehedibagh (Opposite CDA Mosque), ☏ +880 31653558, +880 1713121212, fax: +880 31650153, [email protected]. (updated May 2019) 11 Cafe Milano, c/Alameda de Mazarredo 17, ☏ +880 1

Drink & nightlife

Tea and coffee The teahouses and coffee houses in Chittagong are mostly large, heavily standardized chains. The most common location for various kind of tea is Dalla, besides Agrabad Access Rd. The most common coffee house is Rio Coffee, found in multiple locations across the city, most notably around Naval Avenue Rd.

Bars and nightclubs

Alcoholic beverages are available at five-star hotels in Chittagong as well as a number of private clubs. Four hotels in Chittagong have bar license; Radisson Blu Chittagong Bay View, Hotel Agrabad, Silmoon Hotel, Saint Martin Hotel Limited and The Peninsula Chittagong. While all the hotels are expensive for drinks. Like the Peninsula is expensive by far (more than Tk 550 for a large can of Heineken). Here you can buy Bangladeshi local branded (Karrew and Co, Darshona) alcohol (vodka, rum, malted, whiskey, gin) from licensed ware houses situated in Shadar Ghat (Kazi & Co.), BRTC, near the railway station (foreign liqueur) and from Dewan Hat. If you want to go to a bar, then you can go Hotel Shahjahan at Shadarghat, a well-furnished bar, or there is also a bar at BRTC bus stand adjacent to the foreign liqueur shop. It is possible to buy alcoholic beverages, ranging from local brews to smuggled beer and counterfeit brand alcohol. Local booze is available legally at government licensed shops. There is one in Agrabad on Sheik Mujib Rahman road. It is tucked into an alley way a short distance from the first floor "Siemens" showroom. Counterfeit branded alcohol is available from illegal traders in Kulshie and other areas. But beware: deaths have been reported from consumption of adulterated liquor, and headaches and illness are more common. Smuggled booze is sometimes available on the sea beach.

1 Radisson Blu Chittagong Bay View, SS Khaled Road, Lalkhan Bazar (Stay within walking distance of M.A. Aziz Stadium and Chittagong Club Limited in this commercial capital.), ☏ +88 031 619800, [email protected]. A 5-star business hotel US$101.25, €85.92 (pp/night). (updated Jul 2017) 2 Hotel Agrabad, Sabder Ali Road, Agrabad Commercial Area, ☏ +88 031 713311-8, fax: +88 031 710572, [email protected]. A 4-star business hotel in the commercial district; restaurants and a swimming pool. Online booking available. US$165-700 (pp/night). (updated Jul 2017) 3 The Peninsula Chittagong, 486/B, OR Nizam Road, CDA Avenue (near the G.E.C Circle), ☏ +880 31-616722, fax: +880 31-624385, [email protected]. 4-star hotel. The roof of the building has a swimming pool and offers a view of the entire city. US$100-150.

Sleep

Budget 1 Hotel Miskha (হোটেল মিসখা), 95 Station Road, ☏ +880 1711-178711. Check-out: noon. One of the better of the Station Road cheapies, rooms are large, fairly clean and more atmospheric than others in the area with faded old wooden furniture. Prices are a little high but don't even think of asking the stubborn manager for a discount or to throw in a TV. There's a decent restaurant behind the reception desk. Tk 200-300.

Mid-range Asian SR Hotel, 291 Station Road, ☏ +880 31 636383, +880 1711889555, [email protected]. 3-star international hotel (updated Jul 2017) 2 Ambassador Residency, Road #2, House#23 O.R Nizam Road R/A, ☏ +880 1730 707422, [email protected]. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon. All children are welcome. One child under 5 years stays free of charge when using existing beds. One further child under 5 years is charged US$15 pp/night in an extra bed. One extra bed or children's cot is permitted in a room. Pets are not allowed. (updated Jul 2017) 3 Executive Residence, Jiban Bima Bhaban (2nd floor), 1053, Sheikh Mujib Road, Agrabad, ☏ +880 31 2529527. Check-in: 11AM-noon, check-out: noon-12:30PM. Children cannot be accommodated at the hotel. There is no capacity for extra beds in the room. Pets are not allowed. This property only accepts cash payments. (updated Jul 2017) Hotel Al-Faisal, 1050 Nur Ahmed Road, ☏ +880 1778-379944. Check-out: noon. This is a good option, mostly because it's far enough away from Station Rd. Tk 350-1200. (updated Jul 2017) Hotel Bandargaon, 875 Nur Ahmed Road, ☏ +880 31 637686. Check-out: noon. Near Hotel Al-Faisal, it's also a good choice. Rooms around Tk 600. (updated Jul 2017) Hotel Eastern View, 225/A, Sheikh Mujib Road, Chowmuhony, Agrabad, ☏ +880 31 2510567, +880 31 2514935, +88 01727 739 839 (Hot Line), +880 1710 914 448, +880 1811-227 888, [email protected]. Well-equipped, 24 hours service, lift, standby generator, all kinds of food in room, Internet, hot & cold water, secretarial service. It's run by ex-managers of renowned hotels & staff are really good, whole atmosphere is quiet & clean. (updated Jul 2017) Hotel Golden Inn, 336 Station Road, ☏ +880 1711-819025. Check-out: noon. Across the street from Sylhet Super, it's another decent choice. Tk 400-1000. (updated Jul 2017) 4 Hotel Saint Martin, 25, Sheikh Mujib Road, Agrabad C/A, ☏ +88 031 712107-9, +88 031 725961-2, +88 031 710624, fax: +88 031 710659, [email protected]. 3-star hotel in the commercial district of Chittagong. (updated Jul 2017) Hotel Sylhet Super, 16 Station Road, ☏ +880 31 632265. Check-out:

Go next

Chittagong is a great base for exploring the famous hill districts.

Chittagong Hill Tracts - Bandarban - a hill district two hours by bus Rangamati - a popular town in the Chittagong Hill Tracts Cox's Bazar - The country's premier beach resort, about 3 hours south by bus. Teknaf St. Martin's Island - an island in the northeastern part of the Bay of Bengal. Comilla - World War Cemetery, Kotbari Baddha Bihar, BIRD, Salban Bihar