Chiang Mai

Understand

With a population of over 127,000 registered residents in the city municipality (as of 2016), and 1.2 million in the urban city area as of 2022, it is Thailand's second-largest city. Founded in 1296 CE, Chiang Mai is a culturally and historically interesting city, at one time the capital of the ancient Lanna kingdom. In the rolling foothills of the Himalayas 700 km north of Bangkok, until the 1920s it could only be reached by an arduous river journey or an elephant trek. This isolation helped preserve Chiang Mai's distinctive charm, which remains intact. Chiang Mai's historical centre is the walled city ("city" is chiang in the northern Thai dialect while mai is "new", hence Chiang Mai translates as "new city"). Sections of the wall dating to their restoration a few decades ago remain at the gates and corners, but of the rest only the moat remains. Inside Chiang Mai's remaining city walls are more than 30 temples dating back to the founding of the principality, in a combination of Burmese, Sri Lankan, and Lanna Thai styles, decorated with beautiful wood carvings, Naga staircases, leonine and angelic guardians, gilded umbrellas and pagodas laced with gold filigree. The most famous is Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, which overlooks the city from a mountainside 13 km away. Modern-day Chiang Mai has expanded in all directions, but particularly to the east to the banks of the Ping River (Mae Nam Ping), where Changklan Rd, the famous Night Bazaar, and the bulk of Chiang Mai's hotels and guest houses are located. Loi Kroh Rd (ถนนลอยเคราะห์) is the centre of the city's (tourist) night life. Locals say you've not experienced Chiang Mai until you've seen the view from Doi Suthep, eaten a bowl of kao soi and purchased an umbrella from Bo Sang. Of course this is touristic blather, but kao soi, Bo Sang umbrellas and Doi Suthep are important cultural icons for the locals.

Orientation Chiang Mai's most salient physical feature is the moat and the remains of the wall surrounding the old city. About 6.5 km in circumference, it is the reference point for navigating around the city. The east and west halves of the old city each have their own character. The east side has the highest concentration of guesthouses, restaurants, motorbike rental shops, travel agencies, and other tourist-oriented services. In particular, the northeast corner is a warren of guesthouses, restaurants, massage parlours, and other businesses catering to visitors. The western half is more Thai, with a school for the blind, a coffin shop, the Chiang Mai branch of Thailand's National Library and five or s

Getting there

By plane 1 Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX IATA). Handles both domestic and regional international flights. The airport is situated really close to the city, just 3 km southwest of the city centre, 10–15 minutes away by car.

Taxis Registered airport taxis charge a flat 150 baht for up to 5 passengers anywhere in the city. Grab charges the same flat fare if going from/to the airport, but rates in Bolt can be noticeably lower, under 100 baht. If you take a metered taxi, there is a starting fee plus a service fee from the Meter Taxi counter. The taxis operate close to the car park not far from the exit at the north end of the terminal. If you arrived solo and has no luggage, you can also order a motorbike taxi, but you will not find the option to call one in Grab app (which you can get used to in Bangkok, for example), but this moto-taxi option will be available in Bolt, will cost around 40 baht to get to city center.

Shuttle bus The airport also has a shuttle minibus service available, offering drop-off to any hotel in the city for a flat fee of 50 baht (October 2025) - perfect if you are solo of a couple and you don't mind waiting 10-15 minutes for a few fellow passengers. But it can happen that this bus doesn't work at all, as it was from 1-31 June of 2026. The minibus counter is at the southern end of the terminal, near the International arrivals.

Tuk-tuk Alternatively you can charter a tuk-tuk or songthaew, but they are not usually hanging around in the airport. You can negotiate with a songthaew driver who already has a few passengers, if you are alone. Most hotels and some upmarket guest houses offer cheap or free pick-up/drop-off services.

ATMs There are numerous ATMs and exchange offices of several banks in the main airport hall, which is very long and combines both international and domestic arrival and check-in booths on one floor - but you'll need to take an elevator to the second floor once you've checked in, and that's where you won't find neither exchanges nor ATMs. Their rate will not be as good as ones in town, e.g. Mr. Pierre Money Exchange on Tha Phae rd, while not walkable offers significantly better rates.

Domestic The route from Bangkok is one of the busiest in the country. Airlines operating direct services to Chiang Mai include:

Thai Airways International. 4 flights daily. (updated Nov 2025) Thai Air Asia. A well-known Asian low-cost airline, has domestic flights from Bangkok (both airports), Pattaya, Phuket, Hat Yai, Krabi, Surat Thani, Khon Kaen. Used to be the cheapest option if you booked at least a w

Getting around

By bus Chiang Mai has a limited bus service, not without the opposition of the songhthaew (see below) and tuk tuk drivers. The RTC Chiang Mai City Bus follows just a few routes so far, but they quite fit the average traveler's needs, including from/to the airport, and are air-conditioned. The ticket is 20 baht, pay in cash to the driver or else Rabbit card from Bangkok is also accepted. For those wishing to travel really hard, there's a Tourist card - 180 baht per day or 400 baht per 3 days unlimited trips.

By songthaew

The traditional way of getting around the city is by songthaew (สองแถว) which serve as buses and taxis. These covered pick-up trucks have two long bench seats in the back (songthaew means "two rows" in Thai), the seats are shared by multiple passengers and the songthaews stop en route to pick up other passengers who are going the same way. The colour of the songthaew indicates its general route or usage. Most common by far are red songthaews (called rot daeng, red truck), which don't follow a specific route and roam the main streets around markets, temples, or the bus/train stations. These are the most convenient to take if you are going somewhere specific. Prices are fixed to 30 baht inside the city walls but the price must be negotiated outside the city walls, but expect to pay upwards of 40 baht outside. During peak season these prices can increase to 40 baht within the city walls and up to 200 baht outside - again, that's how much a tourist would pay. Because of the city's somewhat irrational road design, especially inside the old walls, the driver may be forced to take a circuitous route to get to a nearby destination, but it will make no difference to the fare. Since mid 2017 songthaews have a sign stating "30 baht pp" above the windows of the car. However this is not a translation of the entire Thai text. It turns out to be the maximum, when reading the entire line. A second line, that is below the windows, gives the area for this tariffs: within the 2nd ringroad. Keep this in mind when you have to negotiate.

To catch a songthaew approach a waiting driver or flag one down on the street, state your destination and if the driver is going that direction he will nod in agreement and give you a price. Negotiate a lower fare if you wish. The price agreed to should be per person. It's a good idea to confirm this with the driver before you leave. On reaching your destination, ring the buzzer on the roof to tell the driver to stop. The driver will pull over, wait for you to get out and pay. Songthaews not orbiting on a fixed-route ca

See

Gardens and nature 1 Chiang Mai Foreign Cemetery, Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd (about 800 m north of the Holiday Inn, east side of the Ping River). A place of history and remembrance. A statue of Queen Victoria is overlooking the place. 2 Chiang Mai Zoo & Aquarium, 100 Huay Kaew Rd (at the foot of Doi Suthep), ☏ +66 53-893111. Daily 09:00-17:00. A large park with over 400 species of animals, extremely popular with Thai tourists, and long queues may be encountered during Thai holidays. While better than some zoos, many animals are nevertheless kept in small enclosures. The zoo operates a dual pricing system wherein non-Thais are charged approximately double the price of Thai nationals. Additional charges are applied for the aquarium. Many of the animals can be fed for a charge of 10 or 20 baht. The park is pretty large, and expect plenty of hills if you want to walk the complete route, so taking the "tram," which is an open-air cart, is a faster and more convenient way to get around, though the last tram starts at 16:30. It's possible to drive through with your car, and there are parking spots next to the animal exhibits. If you have a rental scooter or bike, definitely bring it though. The zoo closes at 17:00, but many visitors wander to the exit gate well past closing time. Zoo Ticket 350 baht for adults, 120 baht for children; Aquarium Ticket 450 baht for adults, 350 baht for children; as of December 2025 Panda House Tickets are not available. 3 Bhubing Palace (Phu Ping Palace, Royal Winter Palace), Suthep (on Rte 1004, beyond Doi Suthep). Daily 08:30-11:30 & 13:00-15:00 when the Thai royal family is not in residence. This royal winter palace has lavishly landscaped gardens and is open to the public. Dress code strictly applied: dress modestly or pay 15 baht for fisherman's pants to cover your lack of it. This includes any leg above the ankle for either gender. The palace (built in 1961) is not particularly exciting, but the extensive gardens are picturesque with some amazing plant life, including carefully tended tropical flowers, centuries-old trees and giant bamboo. A sign at the bottom of the hill near the zoo indicates when it's closed. It is close to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep, so travel directions are similar. 50 baht, children 10 baht.

4 Doi Suthep (from the NW corner of the old town, a straight road of about 3.5 km begins, which then turns into a winding road of about 18.5 km to the top of this mountain). A ride for the temples and sunset to Doi Suthep is a rewarding trip with great views of the city. Most tourists will end up at Wat Phrathat Doi

Do

Festivals

The most important festivals

Chiang Mai Flower Festival. It is a three day festival staged every year starting the first Friday in February (in 2026, due to elections one week later). The city is awash with vibrant colours ranging from the electric orange and lilac colours of the bougainvillea to the velvety blossoms of petunias in all shades of pink, white, and purple. The strident red of the poinsettias, bought by many at Christmas and New Year, is echoed by beds of scarlet salvias. Homes and shop owners alike line the city streets with colourful flower boxes. The sheer profusion of colour that the flower festival and carnival brings to Chiang Mai aptly gives the city its name "Rose of the North". On all three days of the festival, prize blooms are on display at Nong Buak Had Park near the city centre. Many types of flower, miniature trees and orchida are put on display for the judges to choose the best of the species. Landscape specialists put on an elaborate display, which includes patios and waterfalls with exotic decorative plants and flowers. The best part of the flower festival is on Saturday. The parade lines up from the train station to Nawarat Bridge so the police close most of Charoen Muang Rd around 08:00. The VIP viewing stand is right next to the bridge in front of the Chiang Mai Governor's home. The parade route goes up Tha Phae Rd to the gate and turns left and follows the moat to Nong Buak Had Park. The parade moves at a slow pace and stops several times so there is plenty of time to take pictures of the colourful floats, pretty girls and hill tribe people in native costume. The paraders hand out roses to spectators lining the road. When the parade finishes everyone heads to Nong Buak Had where all the floats, award-winning flower growers and landscape projects are all on display. There are plenty of food stalls in the park, and in the late afternoon the Miss Chiang Mai Flower Festival starts. The party goes well into the evening until the new Flower Festival Queen has been chosen. This is a great time to visit Chiang Mai, as the air is cool and the evenings fresh and clear. If you want to see the festival make sure you book your hotels and flights well in advance.

Songkran Festival (Thai Water Festival / สงกรานต์) (all around the city). The Thai Water Festival is one of the biggest events in Thailand. Songkran is not only a time for fun but also a period for spiritual renewal. It is deeply rooted in Thai culture and has been recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage. The festival blends ancient customs

Buy

Chiang Mai is a great place to shop. Sprawling markets during the day and night carry items from cheap trinkets to skillfully made local crafts.

Books 1 The Lost Book Shop, Ratchamanka Rd, ☏ +66 53 206 656. 08:00-18:00 daily. Large collection of used books. Fiction and non-fiction. (updated Mar 2024) 2 Suriwong Book Centre (สุริวงค์บุคเชนเตอว์) (Two blocks west of Chang Khlan Rd (Night Bazaar)). Essentially two shops: a magazine shop open from 08:00-20:00 and the main, large book/stationery shop open from 10:00-19:00. Good selection of Western language titles, and wide variety of Thai titles, as well as office supplies. Pleasant ambience. (updated Oct 2022) 3 On The Road Books, 34/3 Ratvithi Road. 09:00-21:00 daily. Small bookstore with a nice selection of used books.

Groceries 4 Rimping Supermarkets (ริมปิงซุปเปอร์มาร์เก็ต), 129 Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd (Chang Moi Rd E to Kad Luang, take a right, S to the Nawarat Bridge (Thapae Rd); cross the bridge and take a righ; drive 1 block S past the Iron bridge, Rimping on the left), ☏ +66 53-246333-4. Daily 08:00-21:00. If you want Western foodstuffs like good bread, pickles, charcuterie, etc., pickings are slim in the vicinity of the Old City. 9 locations in the Chiang Mai area, map on the website. It's comparatively expensive, but they're one of the few supermarkets that sell western groceries. 5 Tops Supermarkets, ☏ +66 53 224953. Daily, 09:00-21:00. National chain of supermarkets. Good selection of Western foods, including good bread, cheese, wine and beer. There are five Tops locations in the Chiang Mai area, the closest to the old city is behind the Mercure hotel on Chang Phueak Rd. 6 Kasem Store, 19 Ratchawong Road, Muang, Chiang Mai, ☏ +66 53 234 986. A small store a few doors up from Chang Moi Road, situated near but not in Warowot market (to the east of the walled city and just before the Ping River). Has those difficult to get items such as real powdered milk, black loose leafed tea, assorted good cereals, assorted pastries, etc. Has a good assortment of foreign goods including vegetarian and vegan food. Good English spoken. (updated Mar 2018)

Housewares and workshops Furniture and woodcarvings – Major woods and materials include teak, rosewood, and rattan. Items may be unadorned or, especially with teak and rosewood, carved in traditional or modern designs. Woodcarving is a traditional northern Thai art featured in numerous temples. In the 2010s, woodcarving increasingly embellished furniture, gracing screens, chairs, tables, beds, figurines, carved elephants. Gold plated orchids and butter

Eat

Chiang Mai's restaurants offer a wide range of food, second only to Bangkok. Naturally it's a good place to sample northern Thai food: in particular, hunt down some khao soi, yellow wheat noodles in curry broth, traditionally served with chicken (kai) or beef (nuea), but available some places as vegetarian or with seafood. Another local specialty is hang ley, Lanna-style pork curry. The area is also a home to a type of pork sausage called sai ua, which is favoured using chilli and various Thai herbs such as lemongrass, galangal and Kaffir lime. For those tired of eating rice or noodles there's also a wide range of excellent international food restaurants, from cheap hamburger stands to elaborate Italian restaurants. When you come to Chiang Mai you should try a khantoke dinner and show. Although these are just for tourists it is still a nice way to spend an evening. The first khantoke dinner was held in 1953 by Professor Kraisi Nimanhemin who wanted to host a special event for 2 friends leaving Chiang Mai. Two more such dinners were held, both in 1953, thus "khantoke" dinners are not "historic", but rather a relatively recent invention. Khantoke literally means small bowl, low table (khan = small bowl. tok = low table) There are also many garden restaurants where you can enjoy an excellent Thai meal in a beautiful setting. The range and value of Western food in Chiang Mai is unsurpassed in Northern Thailand and there is a full range of restaurants from Australian/British/Irish, through French and German to Italian, Spanish, American and Mexican. Considering how remote Chiang Mai is from the major centres of population in Asia, there are a remarkable number of Western restaurants. It can be hard to find strictly vegetarian food in Chiang Mai, as fish and oyster sauce are used frequently, and the local Buddhist monks themselves often eat fish. Thus, asking for your dish to be prepared "like the monks", which works in other places, does not get the same results in Chiang Mai. There are a few completely vegetarian options.

Food markets & roadside stalls 1 Anusarn Market (ตลาดอนุสาร), Changklan Rd (side of road opposite Night Bazaar Building, further down the street). A busy outdoor night market with lots of little Thai, Indian and Western restaurants and food vendors. Great atmosphere. (updated Feb 2023) 2 Kalare Food Centre, Changklan Rd (Opposite the Night Bazaar Building). 17:00-22:00. Has a large open-air food court, featuring free Thai classical dance performances nightly. All food is paid for with pre-purchased coupons. (updated Feb 2023) 3 Suthep Ro

Drink & nightlife

Chiang Mai's nightlife is the most happening in the north, although still a far cry from Bangkok's hot spots. The busiest night life zones are near Tha Phae Gate, Loi Kroh Rd and along Charoen Rat Rd on the east bank of the Ping River.

Coffee Chiang Mai is one of the top destinations for coffee tourism in Asia, and attracts visitors from many countries.

1 Akha Ama, Moon Muang Rd, Soi 9 (NE corner of the old city). 08:00-17:00, closed W. Moved to this new location from the Santitham area. 2 Akha Ama Phrasingh, 175/2 Ratchadamnoen Rd (inside moat, near Wat Phra Sing). 08:00-17:30. Now next door at a bigger location, having two floors. 3 Chapter 2W0, 90 Thapae Road, ☏ +66 90 323 4991, [email protected]. Daily 06:00-17:00. A gem of a cafe set in a sprawling garden. Excellent coffee and juice concoctions. Mouthwatering breads and desserts. 4 Cool Muang, Moon Muang Road 81, ☏ +66 8 9756 4321. Using 100% Thai Arabica coffee beans. 5 J. Ju Coffee, 52 Ratchamanka Rd. Run by "Oil", this little place has excellent espresso-based drinks, free Wi-Fi, or ten minutes on the computer with your coffee. Very modern design; seating in the front is open-air while the back is air conditioned. Oil speaks excellent English and is happy to give you the low-down. 6 Ristr8to, 15/3 Nimmanhaemin Rd (between Soi 3 and Soi 5). 08:00-23:00. A trendy art cafe featuring an award-winning barista (world champion latte art 2017), choices of single-origin beans and a varied drink menu. Very friendly atmosphere at much higher standard than is normally seen in Thailand. 89 baht for a doppio ristretto. 7 Sky Café, ☏ +66 86 587 4575. Nice situation on a busy road with across that road a pond where often horses are bathed around 11:00. Espresso is brewed very well, using good coffee beans. (updated Dec 2018) 8 The Baristro Coffee Roaster, 78 Pa Tan Alley (along the river, 850 m north of highway 11), ☏ +66 98 259 7926. 08:00-18:00. Small local chain of coffee places, this one is at the river with garden seats direct at the river. See their website for the other locations. (updated Dec 2024)

Alcohol Bars close at midnight in Chiang Mai. While the police is strict about this, it is not uncommon that bars close their front door, not letting in anyone anymore and continue playing music and serving drinks for another 1–3 hr. Many, but by no means all, of Chiang Mai's tourist-oriented bars and pubs are located along Loi Kroh Rd (ถนนลอยเคระห์), outside the southeast quadrant of the old city. In addition to the street bars, the Chiang Mai Entertainment Complex (CMEC) (the CMEC sign is n

Sleep

Accommodation in Chiang Mai is generally cheap, even by Thai standards. All types of lodging are available from inexpensive guest-houses with little or no service to the typical high rise hotels and elaborate garden resorts. The latest boom is Thai-style boutique resorts located near the old city centre — several have been built since mid-2005, and offer excellent service in quiet garden settings; most are fairly small with as few as 8 rooms and a pool, and are decorated with Thai crafts and antiques. Evenings in Chiang Mai are cooler than Bangkok and the south during the dry season, so air conditioning may be less of a priority. Some of the cheapest accommodation may refuse guests who are not also booking a trekking package. If so, please remove them from Wikivoyage.

Budget

1 2230 Hostel, Nimmanhaemin Rd Soi 1, ☏ +66 52 003 831. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. This hostel doubles as a local bar. Free coffee at any time of the day or night. Complimentary use of the washing machine and kitchen. Nineteen rooms that can house 38. Two showers and three toilets are located on each of the five floors. Rooms contain two pod-style bunkbeds. (updated May 2015) 2 7 Century Guest House, 270 Ratchaphakhinai Rd, ☏ +66 53-287541, +66 81-4388175, [email protected]. Check-out: 12:00. Guest house that is a bit worn. Singles can be a bit mouldy due to poor drainage and ventilation. Good hot shower (private for single rooms, shared for double and triple). Terrace. Free Wi-Fi. If they have a laptop free you can borrow it to take to your room. Fan in rooms. Kitchen free to use. Soft beds. Service also available in German. Help with booking trips, treks, motorbikes and other things. Friendly staff. 3 Baan Na Na, 11/2 Rachapakeenai Rd, ☏ +66 53 274 267. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Small and simple guest house attached to the back of a pleasant but moderately priced cafe and restaurant. Friendly staff, shared basic Western bathrooms with warm shower, shared with cafe so can get heavy use at peak times. Good Wi-Fi in rooms. Fan dorm 100 baht, air-con dorm 150 baht, double fan room 200 baht, double air-con room 350 baht. 100-350 baht. (updated Nov 2015) 4 B.R. Hotel, Morakot Rd (Northwest corner of the moat, from where Huay Kaew Rd turns to the left, drive straight (north) 700 m, turn left on Morakot Rd and you'll see the sign on the right side), ☏ +66 53-220061. Check-out: 12:00. Simple, but cosy Thai hotel. Fan rooms are often sold out, however an air-con room with TV and small balcony is an excellent value during hot or wet season. No Wi-Fi (but

Go next

Chiang Dao — an hour north of the city, and a good starting point for treks into the mountains Chiang Rai — a relaxed city 3 hours north, and a transit point on the way to the Golden Triangle and Laos Doi Inthanon National Park — the highest peak in Thailand (2,599 m), 60 km SW of Chiang Mai Lampang — urban Northern Thailand without the commercialism, 100 km SE of Chiang Mai Lamphun — a scenic town with a long history and a longan festival, 26 km SE of Chiang Mai Mae Rim — 20 minutes (15 km) north of the city with the Mae Sa valley leading to Samoeng and an interesting temple (Wat Pa Dara Phirom) Nan — the former capital of a small kingdom filled with history and temples and surrounded by mountains Visit the towns along the Mae Hong Son Loop: Pai — a tourist-oriented town, offering a relaxed atmosphere with a broad traveller & backpacker scene. Popular with hippies Mae Hong Son — a picturesque little town with lush valleys, rocky streams and a small lake, 235 km from Chiang Mai on Rte 1095. By public bus about 6 hr

Border crossings Chiang Khong - Huay Xai, Laos (six hours by bus (from Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Terminal, east of the old town, daily 08:30) to the border where you can catch a boat across the Mekong River to the Lao side, The bus will stop about 1 km shy of the border, tuk-tuks will be waiting to take you the remainder of the way). From Huay Xai also there are slow (2-day) and fast (6-8 hr) boats ply the Mekong to Luang Prabang. Buses are also available to Luang Prabang and north to Luang Namtha. Mae Sai - Tachilek, Myanmar (Mae Sai and Tachilek lie 5 hr north of Chiang Mai on the Thai-Myanmar border). Best known for their border markets. A popular place to pop over the border for a few hours before renewing your Thai visa. There are no consular services so you cannot get a new visa here. It is possible to get a 14-day Thai visa on re-entry to Thailand which can come in very handy if you do not have any time left on your current Thai visa. Many people buy Western alcohol, especially wine, while in Myanmar due to the very large duties imposed in Thailand.