Changzhou

Understand

Settlement here stretches back to at least the Spring and Autumn period (770-426 BC) when Yancheng, a city surrounded by three concentric moats was established. Changzhou has been visited by many people over the years including Song dynasty poet Dongpo, Emperor Qianlong, and the Japanese Army on their way to destroy Nanjing.

Climate

Changzhou has four distinct seasons, with synchronized rain and heat, and abundant sunshine. Winter is the longest, followed by summer, spring again, and autumn is the shortest. The seasonal differences in climate are very obvious, with cold winters, hot summers, and mild spring and autumn.

Getting there

By train Changzhou has two railway stations that are adjacent to one another. The new station faces north and serves the high speed G-trains and some of the slightly slower D-trains that run between Shanghai and Nanjing. The older south facing station handles the long distance T and K trains and the odd D train. The two stations are connected by an underground walkway. You can also take a metro train between the two stations.

1 Changzhou North Station (常州北站), Changjiang North Road, Xinbei District (新北区长江北路). (updated Nov 2019) 2 Changzhou Station (常州站), 138 Guanhe East Road, Tianning District (天宁区关河东路138号). (updated Nov 2019) The most frequent services are high-speed G and D-trains going to or from Shanghai or Nanjing. The journey from either end takes around 1.5 hours. Services include:

From Nanjing – (¥80) Departing from the main station. From Shanghai – (G train: ¥80 second class; ¥128 business class. D train ¥51 second class; ¥61 business class.) Departing from Shanghai central or Hongqiao station. The slower and lower class T- and K- services from other provinces stop at Changzhou but tickets are only available for destinations outside of Jiangsu.

Tickets The new station has touchscreen ticket machines with English menus to buy tickets G and D train. A ticket to Shanghai on the G train costs ¥80 for second class and ¥125 for business class. The D train is ¥51 for second class and ¥61 for business class Buying tickets for the long distance T or K services have to be bought from the ticket windows in the building on the far right of the entrance. There aren't any ticket machines but most clerks can speak at least simple English or will find someone who does. For services other than the high-speed trains, it's wise to book outbound tickets a few days in advance as they fill up quickly, especially during public holidays.

By bus The northern bus station on Xinmen Lu (almost opposite the train station) has frequent services to Wuxi, Zhangjiagang, Suzhou (¥34, 2 hr), yixing ¥21 and Kunshan.

By plane There are flights in and out of Changzhou to over 10 cities.

Getting around

The cities main attractions are within a walkable radius of the train station, with the outlying spots on the main bus routes.

By bus The Changzhou bus network fleet comprises speedy modern buses and a bunch lumbering rattlers. The BRT bus network, operating in lieu of a subway, features frequent services of large shiny buses that rapidly traverse mainly inner city routes stopping at enclosed BRT stations located in the centre of the main thoroughfares and at the curbside on smaller roads. All BRT bus numbers are prefixed with a B, followed by the route number. Service frequency is almost excessive, to the point where it's not uncommon to see two or three same numbered buses following each other caterpillar style with only a few passengers on each. The services start and terminate near the train station. Fares for all buses are ¥1, regardless of distance.

B11 - Runs down Heping Lu and past the main shopping district. 2 - Starts at bus terminus attached to the new northern train and long distance bus station and rattles down almost the entire length of Heping Lu and around the university town in the south. B1 - Stops in front of the Yancheng complex. A double-decker tourist bus numbered Y1 can be seen about town but locals are somewhat secretive about its routes and timetable.

By metro As of 2019, Changzhou has one metro line, with more under construction.

By taxi Metered taxis charge ¥9 for the first 4 km and then ¥2.9 for every additional kilometre.

See

1 Canal 5 (运河五号创意街区), 141 Sanbao Street, Wuxing Subdistrict, Zhonglou District (钟楼区五星街道三堡街141) (you can take a tour boat here from Dongpo Park. Alternatively, you can catch bus no. 258), ☏ +86 519 86855988. Former factories, now turned into Art Studios, Restaurants, Think tanks, Nightclubs, Museums & more. It's a great place to get away from the fast-paced lifestyle of China. Canal 5 offers a break from the noise & traffic, a beautiful location, perfect for taking cool pictures. Canal 5 has preserved the history of the buildings & allows you to explore what was once a textile mill with a blend of architectural salvage and restoration. Across the street from Canal 5, you can hop on a traditional boat & cruise the CZ river. (updated May 2018) 2 Changzhou Museum (常州博物馆), 1288 Longcheng Avenue, Xinbei District (新北区龙城大道1288号) (on the west side of Changzhou Civic Square 760 m from the Civic Square metro station on Line 1; bus routes 24, 213 and b12 stop just outside the museum), ☏ +86 519 85165089. Tu-Su 09:00-17:00, no entry after 16:00, closed on Mondays. Entry is free. English tour guides are available for ¥100. (updated Nov 2019) 3 Dongpo Park (东坡园 Dōngpō Yuan, 东坡公园 Dōngpō Gōngyuán), 9 Yanling Middle Road, Tianning District (天宁区延陵中路9号) (1.5 km east of the Tongji Bridge metro station; bus routes 7, 8, 17, 25, 220b, 303, 903, b12, b2 and d6), ☏ +86 519 88815005. 05:00-21:00. A diminutive but pretty park named after Song dynasty, poet, artist and gardener, Su Dong Po - who died in Changzhou. One side of the park runs against the Grand Canal and the others sides by smaller canals, giving the impression of being on an island. A second islet connected by an arching bridge has a large DongPo academy hall, fronted by a statue of the man himself, makes a good place to watch boats run on the Grand Canal. In the main garden is the remains of an imperial palace built for a visiting Emperor QianLong, though what remains can be seen indeed are very few, except for the foundations and a few fragments of carved stone. Free. Song Dynasty pillars, YanLing Middle Rd (100 m south of Dong Po Park). Fragments of a pair of pillars from a long ago destroyed temple sit next to a minor canal parallel to the YanLing Rd. Dating from 979, they are estimated to have once been 5m tall but the ravages of time have reduced the tallest to about 2m and the other only a base. Somewhat weathered carvings depict layers of clouds, the ocean, mountains, rivers, protective deities and Buddhas. 4 Hongmei Park (红梅公园 Hóngméi Gōngyuán, Red Plum Park), 28 Danqing Road, Tianning District (天宁区丹青路28号

Do

1 Dinosaur Park (中华恐龙园), 1 Hanjiang Road, Xinbei District. Daily 09:00-17:00. If your interest in paleontology doesn't extend further than The Flintstones this dinosaur theme park with rides, dancing dinos and few fossils might take your fancy. ¥160 (afternoon only), ¥260 (full day).

Buy

Changzhou combs are traditional handmade items with a history of over 2,000 years. Made from fine wood or horn and carefully polished, these combs are not only daily necessities but also exquisite handicrafts. They are believed to improve blood circulation and symbolize good fortune. Visitors can find authentic Changzhou combs in local craft stores and souvenir shops. Changzhou sesame oil is another well-known local product, appreciated for its rich aroma and pure taste. Made using traditional stone-milling techniques, this oil adds a deep, nutty flavor to dishes and is a popular choice among locals and tourists alike. It makes for an ideal gift for those who enjoy Chinese cuisine. Changzhou chrysanthemum tea is a famous regional beverage known for its light fragrance and cooling properties. The tea is made from locally grown chrysanthemums, offering both a refreshing taste and health benefits such as soothing the throat and reducing fatigue. It can be purchased in tea shops and local markets. Changzhou steamed buns (Baozi) are popular local snacks featuring thin, soft wrappers and juicy fillings. Whether stuffed with pork, vegetables, or sweet bean paste, they are beloved by residents and travelers alike. Freshly made buns can be found in breakfast stalls, traditional markets, and local restaurants throughout the city.

Eat

Sesame Bing – A local speciality is a small round cake of flaky pastry studded with sesame seeds. Fillings between the crunchy layers of pasty have two flavours – salty and sweet. The salty has a thin layer of preserved vegetable while the sweet has a globular core of sugar syrup. Patience is key to eating the sugary one, especially if bought hot off the stove, as a too hasty bite will send a wave of tongue-scaldingly hot liquid squirting out onto both your mouth and fingers.

Xiao Chi Jie (Snack Street), Huaide Middle Rd. Not really a street as much as a lane on the corner of the shopping complex. Nonetheless it is packed with small stalls selling a wide range of things to nibble on. Grandma's Nook, Xin Cheng Shang Jie A-183, 60 Hua Yuan Jie, Hutang, ☏ +86 152 9508 2029, [email protected]. M-Th 12:00 - 20:00, F-Su 10:00 - 21:00. A bakery with a small seating area. Wu Yi Nong (吾意浓), 1-32 Drawbridge Road, ☏ +86 051986587888. (updated Jun 2024) Long Yin (龙隐•香缇湾 • 常州菜), 1st Floor, China International Sensing Valley, No. 2, Innovation 1st Road, Longhutang Street, ☏ +86 051989661717. (updated Jun 2024) Sweet Peach (蜜桃餐厅•伴山(环球港店)), 3F, Jiangnan Global Harbor Performance Hall, No. 598, Tongjiang Middle Road, ☏ +86 18136992970. (updated Jun 2024) Xi Que (喜鹊餐厅), No. 99-5 -1 Huangshan Road, ☏ +86 17766215177. (updated Jun 2024)

Drink & nightlife

Some people bemoan the lack of bar scene here, compared with Wuxi or Shanghai. Nonetheless there are a couple of decent joints to drown your sorrows in.

Chocolate, Huayuan St. Trying really hard to be cool and almost succeeding. Queen Pub, Heping North Rd. One of the smaller pubs in town. The barman speaks good English and stocks quite a few imported beer and spirits. Pool table. The Old Pal, No. 5 Lufong Road, ☏ +86 131-5129-1950. (updated Jun 2024) 320Life (320Life(钟楼店)), 3-110 Richmond City Mall, South Avenue, ☏ +86 134-0139-2904. (updated Jun 2024) Xi Live House (熹LIVE HOUSE(亚细亚店)), 4 / F, Asia Cinema, No. 29, Huai De North Road, ☏ +86 131-5129-7680. (updated Jun 2024) Shi Li Yang Chang (十里洋场), Shop No. 1-6, Qingguo Lane Historical and Cultural Block, ☏ +86 15606124005. (updated Jun 2024) San Fen Zui (叁分醉(青果巷店)), No. 3-1 Furukura, ☏ +86 134-0139-4695. (updated Jun 2024) 1eo Bistro, No. 6-102 Qingyunfang, West Yanling Road, ☏ +86 131-5129-1361. (updated Jun 2024)

Sleep

Most of the accommodation in Changzhou is geared toward business travellers, so upmarket international style hotels are abundant but decent budget options are limited.

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge Holiday Inn Wujin, 33 Yanzheng Middle Rd, Wujin, ☏ +86 519 86313888. A few steps above what you would expect from this chain, the behemoth building surrounded by landscaped gardens is one of the nicer hotels in town. Big modern rooms have all the doodads you would expect for the price. Though, don't be fooled by the website blurb that claims it's downtown; it's way out on the periphery, south of the Grand Canal. ¥481-1200.