Changchun

Understand

Changchun (renamed at the time to Hsinking) was the capital of the Imperial Japanese puppet state of Manchukuo from 1932 to 1945. In 2007, the city hosted the Asian Winter Games.

History

The ancient period Changchun in its present form is a new city with only about 200 years of history. But there used to be a city thousands of years ago known by different names. The ancient city changed its name several times, 'Xidu', 'Helong', 'Tiangang' (Han Dynasty), 'Shushan' (Tang Dynasty), 'Longzhou' (Liao Dynasty), and 'Kuancheng' (Jin Dynasty). Eventually, Kuancheng was destroyed by the Mongolian army, leaving nothing except mention of its conquest in the annals of history. In 1800 (Qing Dynasty), Emperor Jiaqing decided to build a town, as one of the junctions on the way from the capital Beijing, to the Changbai Mountains, the holy mountains of Qing royalty. The Emperor gave the reborn town a name with a blessing: 'Changchun'. In some tales, this new name came from a couplet made by the Emperor Qianlong, the father of Jiaqing. This couplet was made when the old emperor was on his way to the Changbai Mountains, to praise the spring-like summer of the Changchun area.

The semicolonial period After defeating China in the first Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895), Japan had desires to expand, including plans to conquer the eastern lands of Fengtian Province (Liaoning Province today) from China. This expansion clashed with the wishes of Russia, France, and Germany; Japan had to settle for money from China instead (about 30 million liang). For their part, Russia got the rights to build a railway in the sought-after lands. In 1896, Russia built a railway station and a settlement in Changchun. In 1906, Japan defeated Russia in the Russo-Japanese War, and gained the rights to the railway in southern Northeast China. Changchun became the junction between the Japanese-owned South Manchurian Railway and the Russian-owned Chinese Eastern Railway, which had different rail gauges and permit licenses. There were railway repair shops, and branch lines originating in Changchun extended into Korea and Inner Mongolia. An epidemic of pneumonia occurred in many parts of Manchuria from 1910–11. On 18 September 1931, Imperial Japan invaded Manchuria. The leader of the area, Zhang Xueliang, commanded his army to retreat without counterattack, and pinned all his hopes on the intercession of the League of Nations, which was ineffectual. The city's name was changed on 1 March 1932, to Xinjing (新京) or Hsinking, the capital of Manchukuo, and Puyi, the last emperor of the Qing Dynasty, was

Getting there

By plane 1 Changchun Longjia International Airport CGQ IATA (长春龙嘉国际机场) (around 30 km east of city center). +86 431 77783333. Large and clean, and passengers can find standard amenities such as restaurants, cafes, shops, lounges, credit card acceptance, etc. For first class passengers there are two lounges available, but the standard is far below that of the lounges of international airports. Flights are available to many Chinese cities, plus Asian destinations such as Tokyo-Haneda and Seoul-Incheon. Occasionally there’s a flight operated by China Southern from Jeju. Not available for tourists, twice a week from Frankfurt,Germany (May purchase a ticket via an external company, not via China Southern app/websites). The most popular flights are from Shanghai (2 hr 20 min) and Beijing (1 hr 40 min). ¥2880 round-trip to Beijing. (updated Oct 2024) The Longjia rail station is in the airport. It has high-speed train access to Changchun, taking just 14 minutes. The frequency is every 10-30 minutes during the day, but it does not run at night (about 8pm-7am). Expect long walks between rail station and terminal,roughly 15 minutes to domestic terminal. From the airport there are regular coach services (¥20-30 one way) available to the center (e.g. People's Square (人民广场)). Travel time is around 45 minutes. A taxi to/from the city costs around ¥80 including toll, but from the airport to the city most of the taxi drivers reject a drive if you are not willing to pay at least ¥100 (do not discuss it, do it or take the bus). By late 2025 metro Line 9 will connect airport with Line 2.

By train Changchun has two main passenger railway stations:

2 Changchun Railway Station (长春站; Changchun Zhan) (at the north end of Renmin Avenue (人民大街)). Although it is large and chaotic, providing you read Chinese and speak some Mandarin and are prepared to fight through the queues, you can buy a ticket to almost anywhere in China from here. 3 Changchun West Railway Station (长春西站). High Speed Trains (D and G trains) depart from here. There is also Changchun South Railway Station (长春南站), which is very small and only local trains stop there. Thanks to the railroad-building efforts of Japanese in the early- to mid-1900s, the rail network in Northeast China is extensive and no place is very far by rail. (All times approximate.)

Beijing-8 hours (6.5 hours D Train, 4-5 hrs G train) -Overnight sleepers not recommended for both directions because the train is quite smelly and dirty. Dalian- 7–10 hours (4 hours D Train) Dandong-10 hours Harbin-4 hours (1.5 hours D Train) Jilin (city)-2/3 h

Getting around

Changchun is a very compact city planned by the Japanese with a layout of open avenues and public squares (guǎngchǎng). It is pretty easy to travel from one place to another; however, with the increase in private car ownership, traffic is getting worse by the day.

By metro

The Changchun Subway&Light Rail consists of 6 lines (1,2,3,4,6,8), as of October 2024, which provide easy access to many parts of the city. Line 2 and 6 serve the Changchun West train station. Lines 1,3 and 4 serve the Changchun train station. T-Union Card is usable; it doesn’t matter where the card is issued.

By taxi Taxis are by far the best way to get around. They are cheap but you should have a piece of paper with the address if you do not speak Mandarin. Taxi fares start at ¥5 up to 2.5 km (plus a mandatory ¥1 fuel surtax), after that ¥1.30/.5 km. Several taxi companies are serving the city and they will not try to cheat you. It is common for drivers to pick up other passengers who might be going in the same direction if there are unused seats. However, if the driver is taking you in circles, complain at the hotel drop-off point. The staff there normally will support you in such cases. For other cases simply pay not more than shown on the meter. In general: Make sure you know the name of the places you are going to in Mandarin or have a paper with the Chinese address with you. It would not hurt either to travel during the day and have one of Shangri-La's English maps, or even one in Chinese from Xinhua bookstore.

On foot From May to Mid-November, Changchun is a decent walking city, as the weather is fine and there are no hills. The city does tend to be spread out, so travelers should plan on using other forms of transportation. During the winter months temperatures are too cold to walk longer distances in Changchun, so other forms of transport should be considered.

By tram There are two tram routes (54 and 55) operating in the west part of the city. Route 55 terminates at Changchun West train station. Route 54 terminates at Hoqi Street, where there are a lot of malls . Since 2022, fare for each ride on those trams were increased to ¥2. Although the city once had the most complex tram system in Northern China, there is now only two remaining routes still open. The number 54 runs down Hongqi Street (红旗街) to the west of the city (where there really is not much, still within G1025). Many of the trams were replaced by newly constructed trams, however, since 2023, there are a few trams combined with bar-like facilities where people can ride. Fare is ¥88 daytime, ¥118

See

Historical sites 1 Museum of the Imperial Palace of Manchukuo (伪满皇宫; Wěimǎnhuánggōng), 5 Guangfu North Road, Kuancheng District (宽城区光复北路5号) (a short distance from Weihuanggong Station on Metro Line 4), ☏ +86 431 82866611. May 1st to September 30thː 08ː30-17ː20, no tickets sold after 16ː10. October 1st to April 30thː 08ː30-16ː50, no tickets sold after 15ː40. Home of Puyi, the last emperor of China and puppet emperor of Manchukuo, and centre of the Manchukuo administration at the time. Signage is available in English (and Japanese) although many of the artifact descriptions are in Chinese only. There is an audio tour rental fee of ¥40 although the recordings do not add much to what is already provided by the signage (¥100 deposit for equipment). English tour guides are available for ¥240. The grounds are nicely restored, since the site was repurposed as a factory during the Cultural Revolution. Scenes from the acclaimed 1987 film The Last Emperor were filmed here. ¥70.

The 8 Puppet Manchukuo Government Departments (伪满八大部). Around 1936, the puppet Manchukuo government built its capital with several important government departments in what is now Changchun's Chaoyang District. Now 8 of them remain and are used for other purposes. Visitors usually cannot get inside, but it is still good to have a look at the old buildings from outside and think of their history. Free. 2 Puppet Manchukuo government's Agricultural Department (伪满兴农部旧址), 8 Ziyou Avenue, Chaoyang District (朝阳区自由大路8号) (about 960 m west of the Northeast Normal University Station on Metro Line 1). Now it is the Northeast Normal University's affiliate high school. 3 Puppet Manchukuo government's Culture and Education Department (伪满洲国文教部旧址), 696 Ziyou Avenue, Chaoyang District (朝阳区自由大路696号) (about 820 m west of the Northeast Normal University Station on Metro Line 1). Now it is the Northeast Normal University's affiliate primary school. 4 Puppet Manchukuo government's Economics Department (伪满经济部), 829 Xinmin Street, Chaoyang District (朝阳区新民大街829号) (about 800 m south of Wenhua Square Station on Metro Line 2; use Exit C). Now it is Jilin University's No.3 Bethune Hospital. 5 Puppet Manchukuo government's Foreign Affairs Department (伪满洲国外交部旧址), 1122 Jianshe Street, Chaoyang District (朝阳区建设街1122号) (about 730 m east of Nanchanglu Station on Metro Line 3). Now it is a Traditional Chinese Medicine clinic operated by the Moii Group. 6 Puppet Manchukuo government's Justice Department (伪满洲国司法部旧址), 828 Xinmin Street, Chaoyang District (朝阳区新民大街828号) (about 800 m south of Wenhua Square Station on Metro Li

Do

1 Changchun Film Century City (长影世纪城), Intersection of JIngyue Street and Yongshun Road, Jingyue National High-Tech Industry Development Zone (净月国家高新技术产业开发区净月大街与永顺路交汇) (Changyingshijicheng Station, Metro Line 3), ☏ +86 431 84550888, +86 431 84550999. 09ː00-17ː30 (May 1st to October 7th), 09ː00-16ː30 (October 8th to April 30th). A large and very popular theme park owned by the Changchun Film Group Corporation. ¥198 (November to March), ¥240 (April to October). Children between 1.2 and 1.5 m in height pay half price. Children under 1.2 metres in height and persons over 70 are granted free admission on condition that they are accompanied by an adult ticket holder. (updated Jan 2019) 2 Shengli Park (胜利公园), Intersection of Renmin Street and Beijing Street, Kuancheng District (宽城区人民大街与北京大街交会处) (Shengli Park Station, Metro Line 1). The park offers activities such as a petting zoo and bumper cars (summer) and a frozen pond for skating (winter). Free.

Parks and nature 3 Changchun Zoo and Botanical Garden (长春动植物园), 2121 Ziyou Avenue, Nanguan District (南关区自由大路2121号) (the South Gate is 700 m east of Exit B of the Northeast Normal University Station on Metro Line 1; you can also take bus no. 17, 25, 61, 160, 218, 218b, 226, 227, 228, 238, 241, 265, 267 or 277), ☏ +86 431 85644769, +86 431 81903938, +86 431 81903935. 08ː00-16ː00. ¥30. (updated Jan 2019) 4 Changchun World Sculpture Park (长春世界雕塑公园; Chángchūn Shìjiè Diāosù Gōngyuán), 9518 Renmin Street, Nanguan District (南关区人民大街9518号) (Municipal Government Station, Metro Line 1; bus routes 28, 161, and 312), ☏ +86 431 85379019, +86 431 85379001. 08ː00 to 16ː30 (winter); 08ː00 to 17ː30 (summer). A large, beautiful sculpture park surrounding a serene lake. The park features sculptures from artists around the world. At the center is a large pillar, the 'Friendship Peace Spring'. ¥30 to enter the park, ¥30 to enter the sculpture museum and ¥30 to enter the African art museum. ¥60 for a combo ticket. 5 Jingyuetan National Forest Park (净月潭国家森林公园; Jìngyuètán guójiā sēnlín gōngyuán), 5840 Jingyue Street, Jingyue Development Zone (净月开发区净月大街5840号) (Jingyuegongyuan Station, Metro Line 3), ☏ +86 431 84528001, [email protected]. Open 24 hours. It is the largest man-made forest park in Asia, and a great place for skiing in the winter. General admission fee is ¥30. Ski field access fee is ¥110 on weekdays, ¥120 on weekends and ¥130 during Chinese New Year. 6 Northeast Tiger Park (东北虎园), 10500 Jingyue Street, Nanguan District (南关区净月大街10500号) (the entrance is about 640 m south of Changyingshijicheng Station on Metro Line 3), ☏ +86

Buy

Currency exchange is available at the airport, various hotels and banks, including Bank of China on Xi'an Dalu (西安大路). There are three major shopping areas: Chongqing Road (重庆路; Chóngqìnglù), Guilin Road (桂林路; Guìlinlù), and Hongqi Street (红旗街; Hóngqíjiē).

Local products Ginseng - as the region around Changchun is a top producer of ginseng, it is available at most pharmacies in the city. Other products that may be of interest include wood ear fungus and lingzhi mushroom. Kites - attractive and cheap kites are sold by vendors around Culture Square.

Shops Sanfo is the leading outdoor gear stores in China and local store is at 668 Xikang Hutong, Ziyou Dalu District. People's Square Here is the biggest selection of clothing shops and department stores in the whole city. Shopping runs along both Xi'an Da Lu and Changchun St. A well-visited mall, Charter Mall, (Zhuōzhǎn 卓展), on Xi'an Da Lu across from the Shangri-la Hotel. One can find luxury brands co-existing with the likes of Wal-Mart. Guilin Road (桂林路) area is about 1.5 km (2.5 mi) to the south of Chongqing Rd along Tongzhi Jie (同志街) and is the most cosmopolitan part of town. The area along Guilin Lu, Tongzhi St, and the surrounding side streets offer much to see, buy, and eat. There are many restaurants in this area especially if you are interested in Korean food. Be careful with Korean food in Changchun as many Korean restaurants specialize in "Dog pot." There is less overall choice than Chongqing Lu, but if you are looking for specifics - e.g. Korean fashions then is the best place in town - though the shops in this area are a little more expensive. This area can be extremely busy, and it is definitely a target area for younger shoppers. Many places will not haggle price. Hongqi Street (红旗街) is to the west of Guilin Lu and is the smallest of the three shopping areas. It is dominated by one of the better department stores in Changchun: Ouya (欧亚). The 6th-8th floors of Ouya contain the largest electronics market in the city. You can find anything electronic here, from mp3 players to laptops. Prices can be very high. The Underground Markets (Dìxià Shìchǎng 地下市场): These are now extensive underground shopping areas, originally dug out by POWs during the occupation, intended to be used as bomb shelters. There are three of these places in Changchun: Chongqing Lu (重庆路), the Train Station (长春站), and Hongqi Jie (红旗街). If you want anything cheap (and probably fake) then these are the places to come. There are hundreds of small shops selling relatively undifferentiated products, and the term buyer bew

Eat

Xunrou Dabing (熏肉大饼)：Xunrou Dabing is a traditional snack from Changchun, consisting of a crispy flatbread filled with aromatic smoked pork, scallions, and savory sauces. The bread is golden brown and flaky, while the smoked pork offers a rich, smoky flavor. This dish is a popular choice for breakfast or a light meal. Ginseng Chicken Soup (人参炖鸡)：Ginseng Chicken Soup is a nourishing dish made by simmering tender chicken with ginseng, a prized herb known for its health benefits. The soup is clear and aromatic, offering a delicate balance of flavors. It's commonly consumed during colder months to boost vitality and strengthen the immune system. Braised Deer’s Tail (炖鹿尾巴)：Braised Deer’s Tail is a unique delicacy in Changchun, where the tail of a deer is slow-cooked to tender perfection. The dish is rich and flavorful, often served in a savory broth with a variety of spices. It's considered a special treat and is typically found in upscale restaurants. Cold Noodles (冷面)：Cold Noodles are a popular dish in Changchun, especially during the summer months. The noodles are served chilled, topped with sliced beef, vegetables, and a tangy sauce. The dish is refreshing and light, making it a favorite among locals seeking a cool meal. Steamed Rice Cake with Red Bean Paste (豆包)：Steamed Rice Cake with Red Bean Paste is a traditional dessert in Changchun. The soft, sticky rice cake is filled with sweet red bean paste, offering a delightful contrast of textures. It's commonly enjoyed as a snack or dessert during festivals and special occasions

Drink & nightlife

Beer (啤酒) is probably the cheapest and safest thing to drink - and being Northeast China - comes in many varieties and is available almost anywhere. A big bottle (630 ml) should cost between ¥3-6. In the summer months good draft beer is available from most small restaurants, the black beer (黑啤) being particularly good. Huadan (华丹), Jinshibai (金士百) and Yinpu (银浦) beers are all brewed in Jilin Province. There are also various Harbin beers (哈尔滨啤酒) available, as well as Bing Chuan (冰川) from the Korean prefecture of Jilin Province. Like all cities in China, avoid drinking bottled water from street vendors and try instead at a supermarket or convenience store.

Bars There are a number of western-style pubs in Changchun. There is a really big bar and club scene on Longli Lu (隆礼路) which are pretty hot during weekends. The beer there is cheap, about ¥6/cup. Occasionally there are some parties which are organized by "Changchun Friends" or foreign teachers. Usually, they play the music themselves. The atmosphere is quite comfortable and people are very nice.

1 The Happy Home, 1323 Xikang Hutong (西康胡同1323号) - not far from Mayflower 2 (about 1 km west of the Northeast Normal University Station on Metro Line 1; the nearest bus stop is Xinmin Plaza East Entrance (新民广场东口), which is served by bus routes 218, 218b and 227). This is the default meeting place for a lot of foreign teachers and other young and English - or Russian - speaking people. 2 Three Monkeys (formerly known as Cheers), Tian An City One, 661 Guigu Street, Chaoyang District (朝阳区硅谷大街661号天安第一城) (a few hundred metres northeast of Guigudajie Station on Metro Line 3). The interior, music collection, drinks menu and all other aspects of the pub were designed by British, Italian and American engineers. The music is all western and the drinks menu includes English ale and Irish stout. This is the only place in Changchun to have a beer and a game of pool in peace. A front terrace away from the main road to have a beer on a summers evening in pleasant surroundings. German Brauhaus (1 block W of Kangping St/Xi'an Da Lu intersection, on W side of Qingyun St). Serve Flensburger beer exclusively. Western fare available. ¥38 for a bottle of Flensburger. 3 Old Ship Bar (老船吧), Between Jingcheng Street and Anshun Road, ☏ +86 43188888099. Literally housed in a small wooden sailing ship. Serves beer and other beverages, has indoor barbecue features for seafood as well as other types of barbecue, Western flavors, a cheerful atmosphere and melodious music. (updated Dec 2016) 4 Mayflower Bar (五月花酒吧), Between Qinghua R

Sleep

Budget Not many true budget options exist, and a number of hotels will not accept foreigners, for example Home Inn next to the Train Station. Good areas with lots of hotels are south of the train station (along Renmin Street) and the north part of Hongqi Street.

1 898 Business Hotel (898商务宾馆), 766 Beijing Road, Kuancheng District (宽城区北京大街766号) (near Shengli Park Station on Metro Line 1 and close to the Renmin Street intersection), ☏ +86 431 86118666. Check-in: 14ː00, check-out: 12ː00. The hotel was last renovated in 2013. Staff are helpful and they even take their time trying to communicate with you via a dictionary. From ¥85. 2 Chunyi Hotel (春谊宾馆), 80 Renmin Street, Kuancheng District (宽城区人民大街80号) (a few hundred meters south of the Changchun Railway Station), ☏ +86 431 82096106, +86 431 8209610. Check-in: 14ː00, check-out: 12ː00. From ¥256.

Mid-range 3 HNA Grand Hotel Nobel Changchun (长春海航名门饭店), 4501 Renmin Street, Chaoyang District (朝阳区人民大街4501号) (500 m north of the Northeast Normal University Station on Metro Line 1), ☏ +86 431-85565666, fax: +86 431 85674760. Check-in: 14ː00, check-out: 12ː00. ¥303. 4 Paradise Hotel (乐府大酒店, Yuefu Dajiudian), 1078 Renmin Street, Kuancheng District (宽城区人民大街1078号) (Shengli Park Station, Metro Line 1; across the street from the eastern entrance to Shengli Park; approx 1.1 km south of train station), ☏ +86 431 82090999, fax: +86 431 82711530. Check-in: 14ː00, check-out: 12ː00. Popular spot for government officials, being as it one block from provincial capital headquarters. Clean rooms and extensive breakfast (mainly Chinese style, but a few Japanese and western selections). Indoor shopping available. Many of the taxis are headed northbound and already with passengers so be prepared to wait a while for an available taxi or walk a few blocks. From ¥300.

Splurge 5 Shangri-La Hotel Changchun (长春香格里拉大酒店), 569 Xi'an Road, Chaoyang District (朝阳区西安大路569号) (500 m west of Renmin Square Station on Metro Line 1), ☏ +86 431 8981818, fax: +86 431 88981838, [email protected]. Check-in: 14ː00, check-out: 12:00. A true 5-star hotel, the rooms are beautiful, and the service excellent. Western, Chinese, and Japanese breakfast buffet, as well as dinner buffet with an excellent selection of everything. À la carte and room service also top notch. Well-stocked health club, massages available. Everything you expect from the Shangri-La and worth the expense if you have the cash. From ¥603.

Go next

Harbin is about 3 hours away by train. Train trips to Shenyang vary in length but can last as little as 1 hour. Trains to Jilin city take 45 minutes. Trains available to most of tourist destinations within the province. A train ride to Changbaishan is usually around 3 hrs.