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Bishkek

Kyrgyzstan · Asia

Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. Photo via Wikimedia Commons.

About Bishkek

Bishkek, formerly known as Pishpek (until 1926), and then Frunze (1926–1991), is the capital and largest urban city of Kyrgyzstan. The city is also the capital of the Chüy Region. It is situated near the border with Kazakhstan and has a population of around 1,200,000 people as of 2024.

The Khanate of Kokand established the fortress of Pishpek in 1825 to control local caravan routes and to collect tribute from Kyrgyz tribes. On 4 September 1860, with the approval of the Kyrgyz, Russian forces led by Colonel Apollon Zimmermann destroyed the fortress. In the present day, the fortress ruins can be found just north of Jibek Jolu Street, near the new main mosque. A Russian settlement was established in 1868 on the site of the fortress under its original name, Pishpek. It lay within the General Governorship of Russian Turkestan and its Semirechye Oblast.

The Kara-Kirghiz Autonomous Oblast was established in 1925 in Russian Turkestan, promoting Pishpek to its capital. In 1926, the Communist Party of the Soviet Union renamed the city Frunze, after Bolshevik military leader Mikhail Frunze (1885–1925), who was born there. Frunze became the capital of the Kirghiz Soviet Socialist Republic in 1936, during the final stages of national delimitation in the Soviet Union. In 1991, the Kyrgyz parliament changed the capital's name to a modified original name of Pishpek as Bishkek.

Bishkek is situated at an altitude of about 800 metres (2,600 ft), just off the northern fringe of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, an extension of the Tian Shan mountain range. These mountains rise to a height of 4,895 metres (16,060 ft). North of the city, a fertile and gently undulating steppe extends far north into neighbouring Kazakhstan. The river Chüy drains most of the area. Bishkek is connected to the Turkestan–Siberia Railway by a spur line.

Bishkek is a very large city of wide boulevards and marble-faced public buildings combined with numerous Soviet-style apartment blocks surrounding interior courtyards. There are also thousands of smaller, privately built houses, mostly outside the city centre. Streets follow a grid pattern, with most flanked on both sides by narrow irrigation channels, which provide water to trees which provide shade during the hot summers.

Bishkek travel guide

Understand

Bishkek is an interesting example of a Soviet planned city; laid on a grid with wide boulevards flanked by irrigation canals and large trees, buildings with marble façades, and Soviet apartment complexes. Bishkek has a delightful nightlife, and the people are friendly and very hospitable. Bishkek is a city of many young people that hang out in clubs and small cafes. The population of Bishkek was approximately 1,075,000 in 2021. As of 2026, the city is undergoing a construction boom, with tall cranes tending to their half-finished building dominating the skyline and the sweet sound of jackhammers providing a constant din.

History Bishkek was founded when the Uzbek khan of Kokand built a small clay fort by a settlement on a tributary of the Chuy River in 1825, to connect up several stop-off points on the Silk Road through the Tian Shan mountains. In 1862 it was captured and trashed by Russians, before they set up their own garrison. Russian peasants were soon lured here by land grants and the fertile soil of the Chuy Valley. In 1926, the town was renamed Frunze after the Bolshevik revolutionary and commander Mikhail Frunze, who had been born there in 1885, and became the capital of the new Kyrgyz ASSR. It was renamed Bishkek (the Kyrgyz form of its old Kazakh name, Pishpek) after Kyrgyzstan gained independence during the breakup of the Soviet Union in 1991.

Climate

Bishkek has a temperate continental climate. The city is drab and grey in the winter, and smog is a major issue. Summer is often hot and clear, while spring and autumn are rainier. While Bishkek can be enjoyed at any time of the year with the appropriate clothing, the mountains which most tourists come for are usually only accessible between May and September.

Getting there

By plane 1 Bishkek Manas International Airport (BSZ IATA) (20 km north of city centre). International flights, which mostly come and go at very early hours of the morning, connect Moscow SVO & DME, St Petersburg, Krasnoyarsk, Novosibirsk, Yekaterinburg, Istanbul IST & SAW, Ulaanbaatar, Almaty, Dushanbe, Tashkent, Ürümqi, Tehran, Isfahan, Mashad, Delhi, Dubai, and Islamabad. Domestic flights serve Batken, Jalal-Abad, Kazarman, Kerben and Osh. The airport is not modern, but fairly efficient. There are ATMs and several small cafes and convenience shops open around the clock. Keep your baggage tag receipt handy as it may be checked by Security to make sure you have picked up the correct baggage. Likewise keep your boarding pass, Customs occasionally ask to see them. (updated Oct 2019) Getting there & away:

Marshrutka 380 runs downtown. The fare is 70 som (May 2024), and they sometimes charge an extra 10 som for baggage. It leaves from just outside Arrivals. Downtown the 2 marshrutka 380 stop is on Jash Gvardiya just north of Chuy. Service runs only daytime from about 6:40 to early evening. There is a new bus service run by GoBus company. Their stop is in front of Manas terminal opposite of where #380 stops. Schedule depends on the day and should correspond to flight departures. Their stops are more centrally located (Ala-Too, Philharmonic, Vefa, ...) compared to #380. Schedule from airport is frequently changed and not so reliable. Ticket is 200 som and can be booked through their app (only in Russian and Kyrgyz), there is also a chat link to book and get support in English. A taxi to and from the city centre should not exceed 500 som, but you'll have to negotiate from a much higher price, especially if it's very early in the morning. If you share a taxi the price should be 150 som per person. To & from Kazakhstan, the airport is so close to the border that you're better taking a taxi between airport and border post where you can pick up a marshrutka, e.g. on Highway A2 for Almaty, rather than going via Bishkek center.

By train 3 Bishkek-1 (way out in the west of the city). (updated Oct 2019) 4 Bishkek-2 (1.5 km south of Ala Too Square). This station is usually more convenient to go from. It has a left luggage office; there's a cafe in the square outside, where Frunze sits on horseback bombarded by pigeons. (updated Oct 2019)

Domestic There is a train between Bishkek and Balykchy, which lies on the western edge of Issyk Kul lake. The train only runs in summer on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

International From Almaty there is a train, but it is

Getting around

By bus Checkout the 2GIS app and website, which is great for finding the right marshrutka or bus number in Bishkek and all over Kyrgyzstan. The service is used extensively by the locals.

Marshrutkas Kyrgyzstan's capital, like many places in the former Soviet Union, has an extensive network of minibuses, known as Marshrutkas. There are hundreds of mini-buses (marshrutkas) that ply all parts of the city. They generally cost 15 som, 17 som after 21:00. They typically have around 14 seats, with standing room for around ten extra people during busy periods. Marshrutkas are easily identifiable and display their number and basic route information (in Russian) on the front. There is a great English website for checking connections. To flag one down, simply hold out your right hand, parallel to the ground. Once you get on, pay the fare to the driver. When you want to get off say "ah-stah-nah-VEE-tyeh" or simply "Stop". According to the law marshrutkas should stop at bus stops only, but this is only respected if the driver sees a police car. So, in practice you can ask the driver to stop anywhere and he will drop you off at any point on their route.

(Trolley) buses Bishkek also has a bus and trolleybus system which is less extensive and generally slower. They only stop at designated bus stops and operate only till 22:00. The fare is 11 som in buses and in trolleybuses. Passengers enter at the back door and leave at the front; they pay on exit.

By taxi There are several private taxi firms in Bishkek that you can easily reach through their three digit numbers including: 150, 152, 154, 156, 166, and 188. Daytime taxis throughout the city are a flat rate of 100 som and 120 som past 22:00. There are also numerous "gypsy cabs" situated at nearly every intersection. While most travellers and long-time expats report no problems, you are cautioned to be aware, especially at night and near nightclubs. Generally tourists use the local taxi services which can be reached through several numbers: 150 Euro (Evro) Taxi, 152 Super Taxi [1], 156 Express Taxi and 188 Salam Taxi. Before 22:00 most runs in the city are 100 som and afterwards are 120 som. Many taxis do not use a flat rate, you negotiate a price in advance. Short distance inside city can be 80 som. A taxi for a day can be negotiated. An hour drive to mountain costs about 1,100 som while getting back is usually much more expensive because the driver has to run twice without passengers since during your stay he needs to return to the city to work. Yandex Taxi is available, it can be ordered using smartphone app

See

Bishkek is a pleasant city to wander with numerous leafy parks, tall trees, peppered by Soviet era statues and monuments. However there isn't a great deal to see beyond this, and the city can comfortably be 'done' in a day (or two if visiting the suburban markets). Most museums are closed on Mondays.

1 Ala-Too Square. The main city square is a vast expanse of concrete that ceased to be called Lenin square in 1991, and is the site of frequent political demonstrations and regular festivals. A statue of Lenin was the focal point until 2003, before he was banished to a much less conspicuous location behind the museum and replaced by a statue of Erkidik (freedom). At night many vendors set up photograph and karaoke booths, and there's a synchronised sound and light show in time with the fountains, however travellers should avoid visiting the square after dark. There is also a military monument with an hourly changing of guards.The elegant marching of the soldier can be admired every hour. The ceremony starts about 10 min to the full hour. 2 National Historical Museum, Ala Too Square, Chuy Ave. Tu-Su 09:00-18:00. Three floors: the bottom floor covers prehistoric times to the beginning of the 20th century, and the second displays events of the Communist era. The top floor showcases the history and culture of the Kyrgyz people. 200 som. (updated May 2026) Bazaars: they're more for shopping in than for sight-seeing, but see "Buy" descriptions for Osh, Dordoy, Alamedin and Ortosay Bazaars. 3 M V Frunze Museum, 364 Ul. Frunze (NE of Parliament, look for cottage enclosed in concrete building)). Tu-Su 09:30-17:30. General Mikhail Frunze (1885-1925) was a World War I and civil war general born in Bishkek, of such renown that the city was named for him until independence. You start on the third floor, which depicts the Red v White communist civil war - Frunze defeated the White leaders Kolchak and Wrangel. The second floor depicts the early Soviet era in Bishkek. Finally on the ground floor you visit the thatched cottage where he spent his early years. 200 som. (updated Oct 2019) 4 Russian Orthodox Cathedral (Cathedral of the Resurrection, Воскресенский собор), Jibek Jolu 497 (corner of Togolok Moldo). Exterior of dazzling white and blue, the interior is cluttered by scaffolding as the cupola frescoes are refurbished. The interior is almost too squeaky clean, it hasn't acquired the patina of incense and candle smoke that wraiths traditional Orthodox interiors. With large separate baptistry, and all set in a peaceful compound. (updated Oct 2019) 5 Fine Arts Museum "Ga

Do

1 Panfilov Park. A children's theme park. While this park may be in need upkeep and renovation, it's a great look into the past when Kyrgyzstan was a part of the Soviet Union. Beware that few of the rides have any safety mechanisms, and the safety mechanisms they may appear to have are probably not functional. The Ferris wheel offers a great view of the greater city. 2 Zhirgal Banya (Лечебно-Оздоровительный Комплекс Жыргал). You can buy tickets from the ticket office around the side. There's a sauna, ice-cold pool, and for an extra 200 som an attendant will lather you up, scrub you and then hose you down. For those into a little bit of self-flogging, birch branches are available free. Men and women are separate. 150-300 som. (updated Sep 2024) Karven Club. If you want to swim, the Karven Club has an outdoor pool which is perfect for a blistering summer's day, and there's also a modern gym and fitness centre. For one hour it's 400 som but it's much better value to pay 500 som for a whole day of use and hang around for as long as you like.

Buy

Money Exchange offices can be found around the 1 corner of Kievskaya St. and Manas Av., or on 2 Abdrakhmanov Sr. between Moskovskaya St. and Bokonbaev St.. The rates here are excellent and barely 1% off the bank rate, for US dollars and euros. But also tenge and others can be obtained for a proper rate.

Shopping If you want to fit in with the locals, be sure to get one of the stylish Kyrgyz felt hats (kalpaks) worn mainly by men. You can also get textiles such as traditional patterned carpets (shyrdaks), which are well-made but can be expensive. For cheap souvenirs, avoid the Tsum department store and head directly for the Osh Bazaar. You may have to dig around the stalls as there isn't as much variety or quality as in Tsum, but the prices can be far cheaper if you put your bargaining skills to the test.

3 Osh Bazaar. If you're looking for a fresh sheep's head, locally made Korean picked salad, shashlik or any other type of Kyrgyz snack, this is the city's best known food bazaar. Although it's certainly not Central Asia's most colourful bazaar, there are hundreds of products to choose from, especially in the spring and summer months when produce is fresh from farms in the outskirts of town. There is a separate clothes market south of the main produce bazaar. To get there you can take trolleybus 14 on Chuy, bus 20 or 24 on Kiev or 42 from Soviet. Like any crowded space, be wary of pick-pockets; however visiting the Osh Bazaar is a most and rewarding trip. (updated Oct 2019) 4 Dor Doi Bazaar (Dordoy) (10 mins outside the city towards north east.). Open air market with hundreds of double stack shipping containers. It's divided into multiple sections based on the types and origins of goods. It's the main market for Chinese & Russian goods. (updated Oct 2019) Alamedin Bazaar is to the northeast, corner of Jibek Jolu and Kurmanjan Datka, and Ortosay Bazaar is to the southeast. Geoid, Kiev 107 (entrance on the left side). Geoid sells maps for trekking 1:200,000 and overview maps 1:1,000,000. 150-300 som. 5 Zum Department Store. Mobile phones, clothing, wine, souvenirs, tobacco, make-up, electronics. This shopping mall is located in the centre of town off of Chui street. Complete with Mastercard and Visa ATMs, Zum also displays a great selection of food stands, just outside. Like anywhere in Bishkek, don't be afraid to haggle

Eat

Bishkek is probably the best choice for food in Kyrgyzstan. From typical Kyrgyz food like Besh barmak or central Asia classics as Plov, Shashlyk or Samsas can be found around the city. Also Russian dishes are fairly ubiquitous in Bishkek because of the large number of ethnic Russians who still live in the city. There are an also growing number of restaurants and cafes catering to more varied tastes from Turkish to Korean. Also Uyghur food is popular and fit the taste of many westerners as well as locals. E.g. the chain Arzu have a few restaurants.

Budget

There are hundreds of stands that sell gamburgers, a local adaptation of hamburgers but really share little in common: they are sliced döner kebab-style meat served on a bun with cole-slaw, cucumber, mayonnaise, ketchup and some chips. They usually cost around 60 som. One of the most popular gamburger stands in Bishkek is at the corner of Sovietskaya and Kievskaya, across the street from the main post office. It's a popular area for local students to pick up a cheap meal, and they even serve the rare chicken hamburger. Throughout the city are a lot of street-side vendors selling samsis, which is a staple of most locals' lunch. The green kiosks opposite the Philharmonic Hall ticket office sell some of the freshest, cheapest and best prepared in Bishkek and they are popular with students from the nearby universities. You can usually find a row of shashlyk grills inside any bazaar or just outside any chaykhana (teahouse). For some pre-independence nostalgia, try the cafeterias of government ministries and universities. For about one US dollar you can experience what it was like to eat Soviet-style cafeteria food.

1 Buffet, VJF3+P6M (Orozbekov St). The buffet is an ordinary place for public meals with wide menu of different dishes and desserts. The middle price of lunch about 350 - 400 soms. Buffet is probably the best canteen chain in Bishkek. (updated May 2022) 2 Grenki, Toktogul St. Great food, variety of choices. Interesting design. Neat and clean. Friendly staff and comfortable. (updated May 2022) 3 Oasis Azian Doner and Kabab, 122 Isanov St. Here you get a very tasty shawarma. (updated Jun 2022) 4 Cafe Faiza, Jibek Jolu (Жибек Жолу 555) (a block west of Manas). Daily 09:00-21:00. Excellent local food frequented by locals. Great samsas and laghman (noodles). Popular so you may have to wait for a free table. (updated Jun 2022)

Mid-range 5 Dolce Vita Pizza, Akhunbaeva 116a (200 m east of Mir). Daily 11:00-00:00. Possibly the best pizza in Bishkek, with thin crust is baked in an open-fire oven; the

Drink & nightlife

Cafes There are a few coffee shops in Bishkek that even feature wi-fi.

Sierra Coffee, Manas 57/1 (3rd floor, Russian Business Center). Daily 07:30-23:00. Excellent coffee and coffee specialist drinks. Breakfasts, sandwiches, wraps, soups, salads. Free Wi-Fi. Counter service by English speaking staff. A place to network and to meet other English speakers. Sierra also roasts their own coffee, offering fresh roasted coffee for sale in a variety of origins and roasts. (updated Oct 2019) 1 Adriano, Isanov 87. 24 hr. All-hours coffee shop and they'll even wrap you in a blanket for cold nights on the terrace. (updated Oct 2019) 2 Coffee Relax, Toktogul Street 140, ☏ +996 312 46 09 01, [email protected]. 08:00-00:00. Not cheap, but good food quality and service. Various coffees, and European and Turkish cuisine. (updated Oct 2019)

Bars Bishkek's nightlife is impressive. Foreigners are welcomed at most venues with open arms, and many times they do not need to pay a cover charge. See the "Stay Safe" section for more on how be aware while you're having fun in Bishkek.

3 Save The Ales. M-Su 18:00-02:00. A hip and alternative bar with a focus on ales and other non-regular beer. The people are nice and the out-door seating is comfortable. (updated Mar 2019) 12 Bar, Razzakova 32. Daily 18:00-06:00. Set atop one of higher buildings this makes a great place for a rooftop drink. A plush place where Bishkek's young and wealthy go to see and be seen, so you might want to gussy up a little. Drinks around US$2-4 a pop. (updated Oct 2019) 4 Metro Pub, Chui 168 (corner of Turizbekova). 24 hr. This is where the city's beau monde come for a drink and a meal. Especially crowded on St Patrick's Day and Halloween. (updated Oct 2019) Promzona, 16 Cholpon-Ata. Daily 15:00-06:00. A trendy Russian rock establishment with a mostly Russian clientèle. It's jazz on Tuesdays with rock and blues at weekends. Check out their extensive drink menu. Entry 600 som. (updated Oct 2019) Retro Metro, Mira 24. Daily 21:00-06:00. You'll find the DJ spinning from inside the front section of a tube train engine (hence the name). The 80s kitsch is a popular spot for really late night partying. Cover charge 1,000 som. (updated Oct 2019)

Sleep

Budget 3 ololoFreelander Hostel & Coworking, Чуйкова, 185, ☏ +997 701990060. Really modern, clean and nice hostel not so far from city center, a part of the big and developing "ololo" network of coworkings and lodgings. Has a big kitchen, a lot of tables to work remotely. Internet is good. Dorm prices start from around 1000 som. There are private rooms which are more expensive.. (updated Sep 2024) 1 Interhouse City Centre, 170/13 Toktogul Street (between Manas and Isanova), ☏ +996 552 313 009. Basically okay place, but some street noise. Friends Hostel used to share this building but they've gone elsewhere. Dorm 500 som. (updated Sep 2019) 2 Apple Hostel, Chymkentskaya 1b (next to western bus station), ☏ +996 551 210 303, +996 553 280 881 (WhatsApp), [email protected]. Clean friendly place convenient for transport, 3 km from centre. Dorm US$10, private room from US$30. (updated Oct 2019) 3 Tunduk Hostel, Kybansky 46, ☏ +996 772 19 50 94, [email protected]. Inexpensive hostel with several dorms, plenty of communal space. Dorm bed 600 som. (updated Oct 2024)

Mid-range 4 Futuro Hotel Bishkek, Khivinskaya 29 (4 km east of centre, one block north of Chuy Bvd), ☏ +996 312 98 68 68, [email protected]. Some way from centre (take bus along Chuy) but gets great reviews for comfort, service & facilities. B&B double US$60. (updated Oct 2019) 5 Asia Mountains, 1a Tugolbai-Ata Str (Corner with Shooruchova, 500 m south of railway station), ☏ +996 312 986 148. Reasonable hotel with some mountain views. A bit hidden away and a walk to the main streets but close to Steinbrau pub. B&B double US$44. 6 Alpinist, Panfilov 113 (3 km south of centre), ☏ +996 312 595647, [email protected]. God value place with single, double, and triple rooms available with satellite TV and internet ports, a full service cafe, and conference room. B&B double US$40. (updated Oct 2019) 7 Shah Palace Hotel, 110 Koenkozova Street (corner of Abdumomunov St), ☏ +996 709 986 822. Clean hotel with multilingual staff. B&B double US$50. (updated Oct 2019) 8 Crocus Guest House, Komsomolskaya 5 (3 km east of centre), ☏ +996 558 058026, +996 558 268505, [email protected]. Guest house in quiet residential area, finding it can be tricky. Has 6 double rooms with shower, satellite TV, fridge, Wifi, garden, sauna and pool. B&B double US$30. (updated Oct 2019) 9 Dostuk Hotel Bishkek, Frunze 425-B, ☏ +996 312 433 636, [email protected]. Soviet-style monolith business hotel with conference facilities, friendly & efficient. Separate hotels from time to time operate within this building. B&B do

Go next

Ala-Archa National Park – A great hiking and mountain climbing opportunity right next to Bishkek. Alamedin Gorge – A beautiful river valley with high routes to Ala-Archa (glacier trail) and Issyk Ata. Burana Tower – An unusual and interesting minaret near the city of 1 Tokmok. . Almaty - major city of Kazakhstan which is situated not so far away

Overview adapted from Wikipedia, travel guide fromWikivoyage (CC BY-SA)。Photography via Wikimedia Commons.

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