Bangkok

Understand

Just under 14 degrees north of the equator, Bangkok is a tropical metropolis that is also one of the most traveller-friendly cities in Asia. A furious assault on the senses, visitors from northern climates are immediately confronted by the heat, the pollution, unpleasant smells, and the irrepressible smile worn by many Thais. The city is surprisingly safe (except for petty crimes) and more organised than it initially appears, and is full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered. The high relative humidity and warm temperature favour the growth of tropical plants — you'll find exotic orchids and delicious fruit everywhere. Bougainvillea and frangipani bloom practically all over the city. Thai cuisine is justifiably famous, varied, and affordable. Bangkok for many represents the quintessential Asian capital. Saffron-robed monks, garish neon signs, graceful Thai architecture, spicy dishes, colourful markets, traffic jams, and the tropical climate come together in a happy coincidence. It is difficult to leave with only lukewarm impressions of the city.

History

"Bangkok" was originally a small village on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. After the fall of Ayutthaya in the late 18th century, King Taksin the Great turned that village into Siam's new capital and renamed it Thonburi. In 1782, King Rama I moved the capital to the eastern bank of the river at Rattanakosin; originally the site of a Chinese community, which was moved outside the new city walls to Yaowarat. King Rama I named the city Krung Thep, as it is now known to Thais, and which in English translates as the "City of Angels". The full name "Krungthepmahanakhon Amonrattanakosin Mahintharayutthaya Mahadilokphop Noppharatratchathaniburirom Udomratchaniwetmahasathan Amonphimanawatansathit Sakkathattiyawitsanukamprasit" (กรุงเทพมหานคร อมรรัตนโกสินทร์ มหินทรายุธยามหาดิลกภพ นพรัตน์ราชธานี บุรีรมย์อุดมราชนิเวศน์มหาสถาน อมรพิมานอวตารสถิต สักกะทัตติยะวิษณุกรรมประสิทธิ์) is listed as the world's longest location name by the Guinness Book of Records; an English rendering goes like this: "The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city of Ayutthaya of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn". Foreigners never caught on to the change, so in foreign languages Krung Thep inherited the name Bangkok, which became its formal English name. For Thais, the name Ban

Getting there

By plane Bangkok is served by two airports: Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK IATA) (pronounced Soo-wahn-nah-poom) and Don Mueang Airport (DMK IATA). Suvarnabhumi Airport is the main airport and used by all full-service airlines, but Nok Air, Air Asia, and some other low cost carriers use Don Mueang Airport. Both airports lie about 30 km (19 mi) out on opposite sides of the city, so be prepared for a long ride to get into the city centre, and an even longer ride to transfer between them. A free transfer bus between the two airports is available if you can show an appropriate boarding pass. On a good day this takes about an hour, but the highway is often badly congested, so always allow 2–3 hr for this transfer. It is a good idea to have Thai baht ready for connecting to the city. Good money changing options are available at the BKK metro station.

Suvarnabhumi Airport

1 Suvarnabhumi Airport (สุวรรณภูมิ BKK IATA) (30 km (19 mi) east of Bangkok). Space-age Suvarnabhumi Airport started operations in Sep 2006 and is now Bangkok's main airport and one of the busiest airports in Southeast Asia. It is used for international and domestic flights to Bangkok. There is only one terminal building, which covers both domestic and international flights. It is huge, and by some measures the world's largest, so allow time for getting around. There are two immigration sections, but processing time can be lengthy, at least 30 min and on bad days almost 2 hr. On the basement level of the passenger terminal, the Airport Rail Link offers a speedy train service to downtown. There are no express services, but the all-stops commuter line is still a great way of avoiding Bangkok's horrendous rush hour traffic, particularly when it's raining. Trains depart 06:00-midnight every day, with a train every 10-13 min, and after Makkasan station they continue to Ratchaprarop (transfer to MRT) and Phaya Thai (Skytrain) stations. The ride to Phaya Thai takes 26 min from the airport and costs 45 baht. You can also take a free shuttle bus to the airport bus terminal aka Transportation Centre to catch inexpensive city buses. These may be convenient if you are going to a suburban area like Rangsit or Bang Kapi. Since June 2017 express bus S1 runs from the terminal building to Khao San Road. If you need a taxi, ordinary metered taxis are available on the first floor (one floor below arrivals). Follow the "public taxi" signs that lead to the official taxi queue outside of the airport premises. Avoid the touts in the arrival hall; the taxis they are trying to get you into are mostly likely illegal,

Getting around

Bangkok has a decent public transportation network by Southeast Asian standards, but much room for improvement lies in its integration. Bangkok is notorious for its traffic jams, so visitors are advised to rely on the rail and river networks whenever possible. Transit Bangkok is a journey planner that can help you choose the best route.

By train Three separate operators form the Bangkok rail network: the Skytrain (BTS), the Metro (MRT), and the State Railway of Thailand (SRT). Each operator has a different fare system, meaning you will have to buy a separate ticket or stored value card for each network you wish to use. Fare payments can be made by tapping a contactless Mastercard or Visa on the fare gates of all MRT and SRT lines, but not the BTS lines. Whilst transferring between operators is relatively straightforward, different names are used for some interchange stations. For instance, the interchange station known as Asok in the BTS system is known as Sukhumvit in the MRT system. Trains operate between 06:00 and 00:00. Trains are generally clean, modern and reliable, with signs and announcements in Thai and English.

Skytrain

The Skytrain (BTS) operates three lines. The Sukhumvit line travels from Khu Khot (N24) in the north to Kheha (E23) in the south. The Silom line travels from Bang Wa (S12) in the west to National Stadium (W1) in the city centre. The Gold line travels from Krung Thon Buri (G1) to Khlong San (G3). Tickets are zone-based. You can buy and reload a "Rabbit" card at all stations. A new card costs 200 baht, including 100 baht stored value, and a 100 baht non-refundable issuing fee. Your passport is required to buy the card. You can make payments at some convenience stores, restaurants and supermarkets with the card. Alternatively, you can buy a One-Day Pass for 150 baht per day. Single journey cards can be purchased at ticket counters and vending machines. All vending machines accept coins (Thai baht only). Some vending machines accept 20, 50 and 100 baht notes but there is often a queue to use them. Single journey cards are tapped on the scanner to enter and deposited in the slot to exit. Fare payments cannot yet be made by tapping a contactless Mastercard or Visa on the fare gates. The Skytrain serves various tourist attractions. The Sukhumvit Line and the Silom Line converge at Siam (CEN), the epicentre of modern Bangkok. The Sukhumvit Line passes Victory Monument and Chatuchak Weekend Market. The Silom Line passes Patpong Night Market and the Chao Phraya river. Khao San Road can be reached by taking the Silom Line to S

See

Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles Most of Bangkok's sights are concentrated on the island of Rattanakosin, often referred to as the "Old City". Out of Bangkok's hundreds of temples, the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun usually make up the top 3. The Grand Palace has an immense size, so expect to spend at least a full morning or afternoon there. Within the palace grounds is Wat Phra Kaew, the most sacred Buddhist temple of Thailand. Unlike other temples, it is not one building, nor are there living spaces for monks. Instead, it is a collection of highly decorated holy buildings and monuments. One of its buildings houses the Emerald Buddha, and while you might not expect it from its size, it is the most sacred Buddha image in Thailand. Nearby is Wat Pho, home to the world's largest reclining Buddha image and a famed massage school. Take the ferry across the Chao Phraya River to Thonburi for the outstanding Wat Arun. The main structure is about 60 to 88 m high and it is surrounded by four smaller prangs. It is one of Thailand's most picturesque temples, and is engraved on the inner part of all ten baht coins. It is so recognisable that it even became the logo of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT). If you climb it, and look closely, you will see that it is beautifully decorated with colourful broken Chinese porcelain pieces. Heading back to Rattanakosin, there are many other major temples you could visit, including the Golden Mount, Wat Suthat and Wat Ratchanaddaram. Don't throw away the entry ticket of the Grand Palace, as it gives free entry to the Bang Pa-In Palace in Bang Pa-In (and not anymore to the Dusit Palace which has been closed to the public since 2017). There are many museums in Bangkok showing traditional Thai-style residences. Many visitors take a tour through Jim Thompson's House, the CIA-operative's mansion assembled by combining six traditional Thai-style houses near Siam Square. Ban Kamthieng in Sukhumvit, M.R. Kukrit's Heritage Home in Silom and the Suan Pakkad Palace in Phahonyothin are not quite as impressive, but still make for a nice experience. Rattanakosin's museums are mostly dedicated to history and culture, including the National Museum (about Thai history and archaeological remains), the Museum of Siam, Rattanakosin Museum (which offers two guided tours with interactive displays regarding the history of old and modern Thai life), and the King Prajadhipok Museum. Bangkok has a small, but vocal art community, and you might want to visit the National Gallery or The Queen's Gallery, or one of the

Do

Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles

Festivals

All of Thailand's major festivals are celebrated in Bangkok. New Year is celebrated three times. There's the new year following the Gregorian calendar at January 1, celebrated with a huge fireworks display at Ratchaprasong intersection. Then there's Chinese New Year in January or February, with grandiose and colourful Chinese lion and dragon processions in Yaowarat. Finally, the water festivities of Songkran celebrate the traditional Thai New Year in the middle of April. Khao San Road degenerates into a war zone as farangs and locals duke it out with super soakers. More respectable celebrations are held at Sanam Luang, where the revered Phra Phuttha Sihing image is displayed and bathed by devotees, and at the Wisut Kasat intersection, where a Miss Songkran beauty contest is held and accompanied by merit-making and entertainment. During the Royal Ploughing Ceremony in May, farmers believe that an ancient Brahman ritual, conducted at Sanam Luang, is able to forecast whether the coming growing season will be bountiful or not. The event dates back to the Sukhothai Kingdom and was re-introduced in 1960 by King Bhumibol Adulyadej. It is considered the official commencement of the rice-growing season (and the rainy season). Nowadays, the ceremony is conducted by King Maha Vajiralongkorn. Loi Krathong (ลอยกระทง), the Festival of Lights, usually takes place in November. Krathongs are floating rafts made from lotus flowers and banana leaves with a lighted candle and incense on top. On the night of the full moon, Thais send their krathong down a river, canal or pond, and the owner's bad luck carries away along with it insuring a fresh start. Celebrations take place all over town with parades, concerts and beauty pageants. Loi Krathong coincides with the Lanna festival Yi Peng (ยี่เป็ง). At this festival, a multitude of Lanna-style paper lanterns are launched into the air. Lumphini Park is the best place to launch a krathong down the pond or to launch a paper lantern into the sky. The Trooping of the Colours in early December is an impressive annual event, held in the Royal Plaza near the equestrian statue of King Rama V in Dusit. Dressed in colourful uniforms, amid much pomp and ceremony, members of the elite Royal Guards swear allegiance to the King and march past members of the Royal Family. December 5 is Father's Day, the former King's birthday, and Ratchadamri Road and the Grand Palace are elaborately decorated and illuminated.

Canals Until the late 19th century, Bangkok (just like

Buy

Money Getting cash in Bangkok is relatively easy, see below. Also, credit cards are widely accepted at larger establishments.

Cash advance You can avoid expensive ATM withdrawals or carrying a lot of cash for currency exchange by going to a bank branch (mostly Bangkok Bank) and doing cash advance with your credit card and passport.

Currency exchange Superrich Thailand ("Superrich Green" and Superrich 1965 ("Superrich Orange") are two competing currency exchange change that offer decent rates of exchange, with their respective head offices in Pathum Wan (within walking distance of Central World, both across the street from each other) usually offering better rates than their other branches. The two most competitive money changers are at Phaya Thai station, the end of the Airport Rail Link, right outside the ticket area near the ticket vending machines. They are open from 10:00. They have rates 0.1—0.2% (markup) off the interbank exchange rates for all major currencies, i.e. you can change money directly here when you arrive and leave Thailand via Bangkok airport (Template:BKK). A great alternative to the overly expensive ATM withdrawals.

ATMs ATMs are spread all over the city, especially in central areas. All ATMs charge a commission for using foreign cards at ATMs of at least 220 baht.

Shopping Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles

Dump a teenager in Siam Square with a few thousand baht and she'll stay occupied for the rest of the week! Siam Square is the place to shop in Bangkok; the small sois of Siam Square have dozens of small designer boutiques. MBK Center and Siam Center are the most popular shopping malls, as they sell fashion well below Western rates. Siam Paragon, EmQuartier in Sukhumvit, ICONSIAM in Khlong San, Central Embassy in Phloen Chit and the shopping plazas at Ratchaprasong feel even larger, but are much quieter, as most local Thais cannot afford the Guccis and Louis Vuittons on sale there. Ladies will also feel well at home in the Emporium next to EmQuartier. Just take a few steps out of your hotel and Bangkok feels like a huge street market. Sukhumvit has the usual souvenirs, T-shirts and other tacky tourist junk. Browsing Khao San Road's roadside stalls is particularly good for clothing and accessories, many of them for a bargain. While many of these stalls still cater to the traditional hippie crowd, they have been slowly gentrifying to appeal to a broader audience. The nearby Banglamphu Market sells cheap knock-offs of everything, just like the night markets in Silom and Rattanakosin. In th

Eat

Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles

Bangkok boasts a stunning 50,000 places to eat; not only thousands of Thai restaurants, but a wide selection of world-class international cuisine too. With the rise of the expat community and high expenditure for local Thais, Bangkok has fast become a gastronomical paradise. Prices are generally high by Thai standards, but cheap by international standards. A good meal is unlikely to cost more than 300 baht, although there are a few restaurants (primarily in hotels) where you can easily spend 10 times this. Sukhumvit is known for many of popular restaurants but the business district of Silom is now littered with many of Bangkok's top dining destinations. Practically every cuisine in the world is represented here, be it French, Lebanese, Mexican, Vietnamese, or fusion combining many of these together in a quirky, but delicious mix. Bangkok's Italian town is Soi Ton Son near Siam Square. Of course, for those on a budget, street stalls abound with simple Thai dishes at around 30 baht. There are especially plenty of budget restaurants in Khao San Road. There are plenty of vegetarian restaurants in the more tourist-friendly parts of town (especially in hippie district Khao San Road). Vegetarian dishes are also readily available on the menus of regular restaurants. On request, even typical street restaurants will easily cook a vegetarian equivalent of a popular Thai dish for you. Ask for "jay" food to leave the meat out of the dish. For example, "khao pad" is fried rice and "khao pad jay" is vegetarian fried rice. The most common animal product used would be oyster sauce. To avoid it, say "mai ao naam man hoi". Be aware that all street noodle vendors use meat broth for noodle soup. For Muslims, the alleys around Haroon Mosque in the Bang Rak area are home to many Muslim families, and hence full of stalls selling halal food. Another good place to find halal food is the Ramkhamhaeng Night Market, located next to the campus of Ramkhamhaeng University.​ Don't miss out on a cold ice cream in hot Bangkok. Western chain stores Dairy Queen and Swensen's have booths in many malls and shopping centres. Or better yet, try an exotic fruit-flavoured ice cream at an Iberry shop. Their ice creams are tasty, cheap and safe to eat. Korean-style shaved ice has become very popular, and local chain After You has many branches in Bangkok, and is a very popular hangout spot among Thai youths and young adults. If you need a late-night snack or basic supplies, look for a convenience store. They are open around the clock

Drink & nightlife

Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles

Bangkok's nightlife is infamously wild, but it's not quite what it used to be. Due to social order campaigns, there have been quite a few crack-downs on opening hours, nudity, and drug use. Most restaurants, bars and clubs are now forced to close at 01:00, although quite a few are allowed to stay open till 02:00 or later. Informal roadside bars do stay open all night, particularly in Sukhumvit and Khao San Road. You must carry your passport for ID checks and police occasionally raid bars and discos, subjecting all customers to drug tests and searches, though these mostly occur at places that cater for high-society Thais. One of Bangkok's main party districts is Silom, home to a wide range of bars and nightclubs catering to all tastes, as well as the famous Patpong night market area. For a drink with a view, the open-air rooftop bars of Vertigo and Sirocco are particularly impressive. A large number of stylish and upscale bars and nightclubs can be found in the higher sois of Sukhumvit, particularly the hip area of Thong Lo (Soi 55). Hippie hangout Khao San Road is also slowly gentrifying and a score of young artsy Thai teenagers have also made their mark there. Going out in Khao San Road is mostly casual, sitting at a roadside bar watching people pass by, but the Gazebo Club is a nightclub that stays open till the sun gets up. Most of the younger Thais prefer to congregate around Ratchadaphisek, home to the Royal City Avenue strip of nightclubs where you can find popular nightclubs like 808, Route 66, Cosmic Cafe, and more. RCA, the Royal City Avenue strip, is home to much more than nightclubs. You will be able to find fun karaoke clubs, go-carting, arcades and bars like the Overtone Music Cave which is a place where music students to perform. The Overtone Music Cave is frequently visited by recording artists as well as music students and is becoming a real Bangkok music hot spot. Smoking is forbidden in all restaurants, bars and nightclubs, whether air-conditioned or non-air-conditioned. It is enforced at some venues, but the ordinance is flouted in areas such as Nana Plaza.

Gay nightlife Thais are generally accepting of homosexuality and Bangkok has a very active gay nightlife scene, concentrated in Silom's Soi 2, Soi 4 and a short strip of gay go-go bars known as Soi Twilight (off Surawong Road). Gay strip bars all have free entry, but charge an extra 150 baht or so for drinks. The most popular gay drinking bars are The Balcony and Telephone Pub at Silom Soi 4, which are busy until 23

Sleep

Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles

Bangkok has a vast range of accommodation, including some of the best hotels in the world — but also some of the worst dives. Broadly speaking, Khao San Road is backpacker city; the riverside of Silom and Thonburi is home to The Oriental and The Peninsula respectively, often ranked among the best in the world, and priced to match, Most of the city's moderate and expensive hotels can be found in Siam Square, Sukhumvit and Silom, though they also have their share of budget options. When choosing your digs, think of the amount of luxury you want to pay for — air-conditioning can be advised, as temperatures don't drop below 20 °C (68 °F) at night. Also pay careful attention to Skytrain, metro and express boat access, as a well-placed station or pier could make your stay in Bangkok much more comfortable. In general, accommodation in Bangkok is cheap. It's possible to have a decent double room with hot shower and air-conditioning for about 500 baht/night. If you want more luxury, expect to pay around 1,500 baht for a double room in the main tourist areas. Even staying at one of Bangkok's top hotels only costs around 5,000 baht — the price of a standard double room in much of Europe. Some Bangkok hotels charge a guest fee of around 500 baht if you bring a visitor back for the night, and some hotels in Khao San Road refuse Thai guests altogether. Hotel security may hold onto your guest's ID card for the duration of the visit. These policies can sometimes be applied to Western visitors or to your Thai partner, which can be awkward. Look for signs at the front desk, or ask staff before check-in if in doubt.

Go next

Central Thailand If you want to get out of the city for a while, there are plenty of day trip options from Bangkok.

Amphawa — interesting floating market popular with the locals Ayutthaya — ancient capital showcasing its many ruins, 1.5 hr away by bus or train Bang Pa-In — its magnificent Summer Palace makes for a pleasant day trip Damnoen Saduak — picture-perfect floating market on tourist steroids Hua Hin — beach resort town with nearby waterfalls and national parks Kanchanaburi — the famous Bridge over the River Kwai, the Erawan Falls and Hellfire Pass Ko Kret — rustic island to the north of Bangkok renowned for pottery making, a pleasant day trip out of the concrete jungle Nakhon Pathom — Thailand's oldest city and site of the world's largest stupa Phetchaburi — relaxed historic town with the Khao Wang mountain, colourful temples and delicious desserts

Further destinations Bangkok is also an excellent hub for onward travel into other regions of Thailand.

Chiang Mai — the gateway to the north and the heart of Lanna culture Khao Yai National Park — stunning mountainous scenery and some of Thailand's fledgling vineyards Ko Chang — large relatively unspoiled tropical island Ko Samet — the closest beach island to Bangkok with white sand beaches Krabi Province — the beautiful beaches and islands of Ao Nang, Rai Leh, Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) — main city in the Isaan region Phuket — the original Thai paradise island, now very developed but still with some beautiful beaches Sukhothai — the ruins of the ancient Sukhothai Kingdom Surat Thani — gateway to Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao If you are considering leaving Thailand there are overland routes to the following destinations:

Siem Reap — near the Angkor temples. Phnom Penh — capital of Cambodia Vientiane — capital of Laos Ho Chi Minh City — largest city in Vietnam, another foodie's paradise, some distance away but often the end point of a journey that includes Siem Reap and Phnom Penh in Cambodia; see Bangkok to Ho Chi Minh City overland.