Bali

Understand

Bali is one of more than 18,000 islands (based on a satellite view) in the Indonesian archipelago, and is just over 2 km (almost 1.5 miles) from the eastern tip of the island of Java and west of the island of Lombok. The island, home to a little over 4 million people, is about 144 km (89 mi) long from east to west and 80 km (50 mi) north to south. The word "paradise" is used a lot when describing Bali. Friendly, hospitable people; a magnificently visual and spiritual culture; and spectacular beaches with great surfing and diving have made Bali the top tourist attraction in Indonesia. The vast majority of international visitors to Indonesia go nowhere else but Bali. This popularity is not without its bad sides—once paradisiacal Kuta has degenerated into a congested warren of concrete, scammers and touts extracting a living by overcharging tourists. The island's visibility also drew the unwanted attention of terrorists in 2002 and 2005. However, Bali has managed to retain its magic. Bali is a marvellous destination with something for everyone, and though heavily visited, there are spots where you will be able to find serenity. At peak season, before COVID-19, more than 400,000 foreign tourists flocked to Bali. A huge surge of domestic tourists arrived during school holidays (middle and end of year) & around the Eid season where it is practically quiet elsewhere in Indonesia. Fortunately, they can all be absorbed by a severe oversupply of hotels, which experts predicted will occur for at least a decade. Because of this however, a 4-star hotel room in Kuta, Legian and Seminyak can be reserved for just above US$20 per day, and last-minute deals can produce rates of less than US$20 per day! As more travelers visit, especially due to the visa-free regime introduced by the Indonesian government, this small resort island has been striving to provide more modern attractions and facilities to travelers of different interests, while retaining the exotic traditional culture & natural beauty that has always been the point of interest for visitors. Highly frequented areas such as the south of the island have been gentrifying. Bali has many narrow streets and traffic jams are common in Bali throughout the year, especially Kuta, Legian and the Seminyak area, Central Denpasar city, Gatot Subroto Timur, access to Gianyar and access to the east. Streets in Kuta and Legian and Seminyak have been made one-way. For a 500-m journey in the opposite direction of a one-way street, walking can get you there in 15 minutes; if you take your car, it might take up to a half hour. Pleas

Getting there

Effective February 14, 2024, all international tourists entering Bali need to pay a Rp 150,000 Tourist Levy. Local authorities strongly recommend paying the fee online before arrival in Bali, although cashless payment counters are available at the airport. Payment can be verified by showing the QR code you receive via email after payment. The Balinese government says this fee will help preserve Balinese culture and natural beauty.

By plane 1 Ngurah Rai International Airport (DPS IATA, also known as Denpasar International Airport) (The airport is in Tuban, between Kuta and Jimbaran, roughly 45 minutes away from Denpasar). Ngurah Rai is Indonesia's 2nd busiest international airport (after Jakarta) and a major hub well connected to Australia, Asia, the Middle East, and the rest of Indonesia. A number of International airlines serve this airport including several low cost carriers (LCC). The airport is the hub for island hopping tours to the Nusa Tenggara Islands. Garuda Indonesia, TransNusa and Wings Air operate propeller aircraft services to the islands. (updated Mar 2024) See the Indonesia article for information about visa regulations.

Get to/from the airport

Transportation from the airport is not too bad but is far from perfect too. Some hotels organise free transfers from the airport, and plenty of public taxis are also available: go to the ticketing booth, on the right side just after the exit, buy a fixed fare ticket and a driver will be assigned to you trouble-free. However, the ticketing booth closes after the last flight arrival for the day and re-opens at 08:00, so anyone wanting an airport taxi during this period should be prepared to haggle or seek the alternatives described below. If you are travelling on a restricted budget, you can flag down a Blue Bird Taxi from outside the airport area (but now it will take at least 8–10 minutes walk from the new International terminal, more from the Domestic; there's neither clearly signed way out, nor are there many people using this way), or try to catch a taxi dropping off passengers near Domestic terminal departures. Blue Bird Taxis are safe and reliable, and their metered fares are cheaper than the prepaid taxi fare (especially for shorter rides, e.g. Rp20,000–30,000 to Kuta). Depending on how much baggage you have and how bulky it is, you might want to evaluate whether all that extra effort is worth it to save a few dollars. If you do make the effort to walk outside the airport to the street, you can also flag down a bemo (local minivan). Most of the bemos in this area will be heading to Kuta

Getting around

Bali is a large island and you will need a way to get around if you plan on exploring more than the hotel pool. Rapid, seemingly uncontrolled development and aging infrastructure mean that the roads struggle to cope. In major tourist areas the traffic is chaotic, and there are daily traffic jams. Particular blackspots are Ubud, Kuta, Seminyak and Denpasar. For different excursions around the island, it is common to join a tour via your hotel or at one of the many street agencies which are found everywhere in booths normally marked "Tourist Information". These booths make a commission on any tours they sell you. Once you arrive at your destination you may encounter difficult walking conditions as sidewalks in most parts of Bali are simply the covered tops of storm-water drains and in many places only 60 cm (2 ft) wide. This makes for uncomfortable single-file walking next to traffic. Often sidewalks are blocked by a motorbike or a caved-in section, necessitating dangerous darting into traffic. Many of the island's conventional streets are simply not pedestrian friendly. Beach areas and major tourist areas are easier to walk around; Seminyak and Sanur in particular have a wide, walkable beachfront with many cafes and bars. But although the walking conditions are difficult, they are by no means impossible. Lots of tourists and locals travel the roads by foot, and even the traffic is generally very accommodating to pedestrians if it is given time to react. Owing to worsening traffic, especially in south Bali, a light rail transit (LRT) system is planned. Construction is tipped to commence late in 2024. Four lines are planned to connect the airport to Canggu, Ubud, Nusa Dua and Sanur. The first stage, connecting Nusa Dua and Canggu, is planned to be operational in 2031. Until then, read about your transport options below.

By bus

The Perama bus company serves the budget traveller well in Bali and beyond, and they have offices in several major tourist destinations on the island. There are other scheduled shuttle buses between many of Bali's most popular destinations too. Privately-run buses and minibuses go between various towns. For example, Kura-Kura Bus is a privately-owned shuttle service that operates from southern Bali to Ubud, but oriented towards tourists as it stops at hotels and places of interest. Prices are Rp 100,000 between Kuta and Ubud, or 160,000 for a return ticket (plus 20,000 for luggage). The greater Denpasar region (including Kuta, Nusa Dua, Sanur, and even Ubud) has a cheap public bus network called Trans Metro Dewata with six routes.

See

Temples Bali's best known attractions are its countless Hindu temples. Each village is required by adat (customary law) to construct and maintain at least three temples: the pura puseh (temple of origin) at the kaja (pure) side of the village, the pura desa (village temple) at the centre for everyday community activities and the pura dalem (temple of the dead) at the kelod (unclean) end. Wealthy villages may well have more than these three obligatory temples, and additionally all family compounds have a temple of some nature. The nine directional temples (kayangan jagat) are the largest and most prominent. These are at strategic points across Bali and are designed to protect the island and its inhabitants from dark forces. Pura Luhur Uluwatu (Uluwatu Temple), at the southern tip of Bali, is easily accessed and hence very popular, as is Tanah Lot. For the Balinese, the "mother temple" of Besakih on the slopes of Mount Agung is the most important of all and sits above the nine. The other seven directional temples are Goa Lawah, Pura Lempuyang Luhur, Pura Luhur Batukaru, Pura Masceti, Pura Pasar Agung, Pura Ulun Danu Batur, and Pura Ulun Danu Bratan. All of these are on either rugged high ground or at the water's edge, and this is a clear indication of the likely source of dark forces as far as the Balinese are concerned. Balinese temple design is an involved subject and one that baffles many visitors. Local geography has a fundamental effect on design, and two temples are rarely the same. Everything you see, be it decorative or structural, has a specific, well considered function which may be of an earthly or spiritual nature. There are, though, general elements which are common to the vast majority of temples, which are always split into three courtyards: jaba (outer courtyard), jaba tengah (middle courtyard) and jeroan (inner courtyard). Each of these courtyards contains various structures and/or shrines of differing levels of importance. The tiered, black-thatched roofs that you see on temples are made from a palm fibre, and this material is not permitted to be used for any roof other than those on temples. The elegant, pagoda-like tiered structure is itself called a meru (named after sacred Mount Meru (Mahameru), the home of the gods), and the most dramatic of them can consist of as many as 11 tiers. The number of tiers, though, is always an odd number.

The temple entrance is always on the kelod axis point (facing away from Mount Agung) of the compound and is usually a gateway of some nature. This leads into the jaba which is the domain of humans an

Do

Bali's Hindu culture and history is both extraordinary and unique. Many visitors get so wrapped up in shopping, partying and beach life to miss the opportunity to understand and absorb at least some of this. You cannot fail to see temples, come across ceremonies and witness daily offerings, and those who take the time and effort to understand what is going on around them will find their visit very rewarding. The Balinese art of shadow puppetry (aka Wayang Kulit) is worth checking out during a visit to the island. There are several hot springs to be discovered in Bali. One of them, on the north coast of the island near Lovina, is Air Banjar, where stone mouth carvings allow hot water to pass between the pools, which are set in lush gardens. Another good choice is at Toya Bungkah on the shores of Lake Batur, high in the north eastern mountains.

Bali is a paradise for spa lovers, and all sorts of treatments are widely available. The Balinese lulur body scrub with herbs and spices—traditionally performed before a wedding ceremony—is particularly popular. Balinese massage is usually done with oil and involves long, Swedish-style strokes. In steep contrast to exorbitant western massage fees, Balinese massage is of incredible value, and visitors should definitely avail themselves of this luxury while they're here. In local salons, a one-hour full body massage will cost between Rp 70,000 and 100,000, and the 2 hr mandi lulur, which incorporates a body scrub and hydrating yogurt body mask in addition to the massage, will cost about Rp 150,000. The curiously named creambath is a relaxing scalp and shoulder massage, usually lasting 45 minutes, in which a thick conditioning cream is worked through the hair and into the scalp. A creambath typically costs about Rp 60,000. These same services in an upscale hotel will cost many times more. Bali is host to some of the finest yoga and well-being centres and retreats in the world. You can find an abundance of amazing yoga classes to suit all levels in most of the tourist areas. Look for the best yoga centres in Ubud and Seminyak. Bali is also now home to a number of renowned yoga teacher training centres. Weddings in Bali have become very popular. Many couples who are already legally married choose Bali as the place to renew their vows. Full wedding-organising services are widely available: ceremony arrangements, photography, videography, flowers, musicians, dancers and catering. There are several wedding chapels available that are usually attached to luxury hotels, and the number is growing all the time. There are many p

Buy

Whether it is simple trinkets, a nice statue or high fashion boutiques that turn you on, Bali is a shopper's paradise. A huge range of very affordable products are offered to the point where shopping can overwhelm a visit if you allow it to. Clothing is a real draw. Popular sportswear brands are available in a multitude of stores in Kuta and Legian for prices approximately thirty to fifty per cent lower than you would pay at home. If the mass market is not your thing, try the ever increasing number of chic boutiques in Seminyak and support young local designers. Jalan Laksmana is a good starting point. Bali is an island of artisans, so arts and crafts are always popular. Try to head to the source if you can rather than buying from identikit shops in Kuta or Sanur. You will gain more satisfaction from buying an article direct from the maker and seeing the craftsman in action. Bali has a huge range of locally produced crafts including paintings, basketware, stone and wood carvings, silver and shell jewellery, ceramics, natural paper gifts and glassware. Dried spices and coffee are very popular items to take home. Most supermarkets have specially designed gift packages aimed at tourists, or, if you are visiting Bedugul, buy at the Bukit Mungsu traditional market. Whatever you are buying, make sure you are in your best bargaining mode, as these skills will be required except in the higher-end stores that specifically state that their prices are fixed. And of course, bargaining is a lot of fun. For more general shopping, Bali is home to a myriad of small shops and supermarkets and you will not be short of options. 24-hour convenience stores have mushroomed in South Bali with the Circle K franchise chain being especially prominent. The staff at these always speak English and the product lines they stock are very much aimed at visitors; everything from beer and magazines to western foodstuffs and sun lotion are available around the clock.

Eat

Bali has a huge variety of cafes and restaurants, serving both Indonesian and international food (see Indonesia for a menu reader). For better or worse, some American chains have established a presence here, although almost exclusively confined to the southern tourist areas. You will see KFC, McDonald's, Pizza Hut and Starbucks. Interestingly, the menus are often highly adapted to the local tastes. The menu at Pizza Hut looks nothing like one you find in Western countries.

Try the smaller local restaurants (called warungs) rather than touristy ones; the food is better and cheaper. Be sure to try the ubiquitous Indonesian dishes nasi goreng (fried rice), nasi campur (pronounced nasi champur, steamed rice with various vegetables and meats), and mie goreng (fried noodles). These dishes should rarely cost more than Rp 25,000 and are often considerably cheaper. Some of the most authentic food can be found from roving vendors called kaki lima, which literally means "five legs": the three legs of the food cart and the vendor's own two legs. Go to the beaches of Kuta, Legian and Seminyak at sunset and find steaming hot bakso, a delightful meatball and noodle soup, served up fresh for a very inexpensive Rp 5,000. You can season it yourself but be forewarned: Indonesian spices can be ferociously hot. Go easy until you find your heat tolerance level! Padang restaurants are a good choice for both the budget conscious and those visitors wishing to experience authentic Indonesian (but not Balinese) cuisine. These are usually marked with a prominent masakan padang sign and serve food from Padang, Sumatra. The options are usually stacked on plates in the window. You choose what you want and it is served with steamed rice. The most famous Padang speciality is rendang sapi (spicy beef coconut curry) but there are always a number of chicken, fish, egg and vegetable options. Padang food is always halal, and you'll eat well for Rp 15,000–20,000.

Balinese food Actual Balinese food is common on the island but it has made few inroads in the rest of the country due to its emphasis on pork, which is anathema to the largely Muslim population in the rest of the country. Notable dishes include:

Babi guling — roast suckling pig. A large ceremonial dish served with rice that is usually ordered several days in advance, but also often available at night market stalls and selected restaurants. A very notable outlet for babi guling is Ibu Oka's in Ubud. Bebek betutu — literally "darkened duck", topped with a herb paste and roasted in banana leaves over charcoal. The same method can a

Drink & nightlife

Most Balinese have nothing against a drink, and alcohol is widely available. Caution should be taken in buying spirits as a poisonings and deaths have occurred, due to unscrupulous operators cutting spirits with cheaper alternatives like methylated spirits. Beer is seen to be safe. Indonesia's most popular beer is the ubiquitous Bintang, but the cheaper Bali Hai is nearly as widespread. Bintang is a fairly highly regarded classic light Asian beer, but Bali Hai is a rather bland lager, and despite the name it's actually brewed in Jakarta. Another Indonesian beer is Anker. Foreign brands Carlsberg, Heineken, and San Miguel are all brewed in Indonesia as well, and widely available. A wide range of more expensive imported beers are available. Beer is relatively expensive in local terms, though still cheap by western standards; at Rp22,000 and up a small bottle costs the same as a full meal in a local restaurant. In tourist centres, happy hours are widely publicised before and after sunset, with regular bottles of beer going for Rp20,000-25,000 and the large bottles for Rp35,000-40,000. Today, formally mini markets cannot sell alcohol drinks anymore, even beer, but by Governor discretion, 'warung' and small vendors still can serve/sell beer.

Bali produces its own wines, with Hatten being the oldest and most popular brand, available in white, red, rose (most popular) and sparkling varieties. Quality is inconsistent, but the rose is usually OK and massively cheaper than imported wines, which can easily top Rp300,000 per bottle. Wine aficionados are better off bringing their own bottle in with them. Most restaurants will let you bring your own bottle and some will charge a modest corkage fee. Smaller establishments may not have a corkscrew, so bring your own. There is also snakefruit wine from Karangasem with a sweet and sour taste. Bali also produces its own liqueurs and spirits, with Bali Moon being the most popular. They offer a wide range of flavoured liqueurs and are ubiquitous in bars and hotels owing to Indonesia's high tarriffs on imported alcohol. Vodka and other spirits are also produced locally, with Mansion House being the most popular brand. Many of these local spirits are little more than flavoured rice spirit. Cocktails in Bali range from Rp60,000 in small bars to Rp200,000 in high end establishments. Liqueurs are available in many retail outlets; just enquire within if you wish to have fun making your own cocktails. Bali's traditional hooches are arak, a clear distilled spirit that packs a 40° punch; brem, a fermented rice wine sold in gift shop

Sleep

Bali has, without a doubt, the best range of accommodation in Indonesia, from US$10-per-night losmens to US$4,000-per-night super-homes. Backpackers tend to head for Kuta, which has the cheapest (and dingiest) digs on the island, while many five-star resorts are clustered in Nusa Dua, Jimbaran, Seminyak and Ubud. Sanur and Jimbaran offer a fairly happy compromise if you want beaches and some quiet. Ubud's hotels and resorts cater to those who prefer spas and cultural pursuits over surfing and booze. Legian is situated between Kuta and Seminyak and offers a good range of accommodation. The newest area to start offering a wide range of accommodation is Uluwatu which now boasts everything from surfer bungalows to the opulent Bulgari and other high end resorts. Further north on the west coast is the district of Canggu. It used to offer many traditional villages set among undulating rice fields but is now being developed very fast and looks more like Seminyak. For rest and revitalisation, visit Amed, an area of peaceful fishing villages on the east coast with some good hotels and restaurants, or head for the sparsely populated areas of West Bali. In Bali Popies Lane I and II at Kuta are popular among backpackers, for one room with fan, one person is about Rp 70,000, while when the room is used by two persons is only Rp 100,000, both with fried rice or egg sandwich breakfast. Very cheap, but to the beach should walk about 300 meters or more. Usually no booking in advance, and also no contact person, because the owner and also as the server prioritise whom sleep there first for extension day(s). Come at 10:00 to see maybe some backpackers have left the losmen. Thanks to Bali's balmy climate, many hotels, bungalows and villas offer open-air bathrooms, often set in a lush garden. They look amazing and are definitely a very Balinese experience, but they may also shelter little uninvited guests and are best avoided if you have a low tolerance for critters. Bali hotel prices may be given in three different currencies. Prices in U.S. dollars are most common, particularly away from the budget sector. Euros are sometimes used, particularly at hotels owned by European nationals. Lower-end places usually (but not always) price in Indonesian Rupiah. Some new local web hotels searches usually state payment in Rupiah and also usually include tax and service payment, different with international web hotels searches which stated price exclude any tax and service. If you pay your bill by credit card, then the amount in the currency you agreed to when making the booking is conv

Go next

Boat services run regularly to Lombok, Flores and islands further east. Combined bus and ferry services will take you to destinations in Java such as Yogyakarta.

Lombok is growing as an alternative to Bali with a majority Muslim population. Attractions include beaches, waterfalls and volcanoes. Reachable by boat from Padangbai. The Gili Islands are three tiny islands very close by to the northwest coast of the main island of Lombok. A backpacker favourite fast going upmarket and easily accessed by direct boat services. Flores the next star destination in Nusa Tenggara region where you can find the Komodo dragon, see 3-colour Kelimutu Lake, and explore the Manggarai and Ngadha cultures. Flight time 90 minutes from Bali. Yogyakarta for sightseeing of Prambanan and Borobudur Temples. Bandung, known for its textiles, Art Deco buildings and pleasant cafes, is near Jakarta but conveniently served from Bali using AirAsia service (flight time around 1+ hour).