Baghdad
Iraq · Asia
About Baghdad
Baghdad is the capital and largest city in Iraq. It is located on the banks of the Tigris in central Iraq. The city has an estimated population of 8 million. It ranks among the most populous and largest cities in the Middle East and the Arab world and constitutes 22% of Iraq's population. Baghdad is a primary financial and commercial center in the region.
Founded in 762 AD by al-Mansur on a site with settlement dating back to at least the Neo-Babylonian period, Baghdad became the capital of the Abbasid Caliphate and its most notable development project. The city evolved into an intellectual and cultural center. This, in addition to housing several key academic institutions, including the House of Wisdom, as well as a multi-ethnic and multi-religious environment, garnered it a worldwide reputation as the "Center of Learning". For much of the Abbasid era, during the Islamic Golden Age, Baghdad was one of the largest cities in the world and rivaled Chang'an, as the population peaked at more than one million. It was largely destroyed at the hands of the Mongol Empire in 1258, resulting in a decline that would linger through many centuries due to frequent plagues, shift in power and multiple successive empires. Later, Baghdad served as the administrative center of Ottoman Iraq, exercising authority over the provinces of Basra, Mosul, and Shahrizor.
During the First World War, Baghdad was made the capital of Mandatory Iraq. With the recognition of Iraq as an independent monarchy in 1932, it gradually regained some of its former prominence as a significant center of Arab culture. During the Ba'ath Party rule, the city experienced a period of relative prosperity and growth. However, it faced severe infrastructural damage due to the Iraq War, which began with the invasion of Iraq in 2003, resulting in a substantial loss of cultural heritage and historical artifacts. During the insurgency and renewed war from 2013 to 2017, it had one of the highest rates of terrorist attacks in the world. However, these attacks have gradually declined since the territorial defeat of the Islamic State militant group in Iraq in 2017, and are now rare. Since the end of the war, numerous reconstruction projects have been underway to induce stability.
Iraq's largest city, Baghdad is the seat of government. It generates 40% of the economy of Iraq. A major center of Islamic history, Baghdad is home to numerous historic mosques, as well as churches, mandis and synagogues, highlighting the city's historical diversity. Religious sites such as Masjid al-Kadhimayn, Buratha Mosque, the Shrine of Abdul-Qadir Gilani and Abu Hanifa Mosque are visited by millions of people annually. It was once home to a large Jewish community and was regularly visited by Sikh pilgrims from India. Baghdad is a regional cultural hub. The city is well known for its coffeehouses.
Baghdad travel guide
Understand
History Founded in 762 CE by caliph al-Mansur as the Round City, Baghdad became the seat of the Abbasid Caliphate and grew into one of the largest scientific centres in the Islamic world during the Golden Age of Islam. Five centuries of peace came to an end in 1258 when the city was destroyed by the Mongols who advanced westwards. After a period of Ottoman rule, Baghdad became the capital of Iraq under a British protectorate and as an independent state. Since then, Baghdad has been subject to war, terrorist attacks and attempts at reconstruction.
Getting there
By plane The national airline is Iraqi Airways that operates a growing fleet of more than 30 modern jets. They mainly provide domestic flights but Iraqi Airways also offers flights to numerous international destinations, including a few routes from Europe. Numerous other operators in the Middle East also fly to Baghdad, with daily flights from most regional hubs. There are also a few low cost airlines such as FlyBaghdad that have flights to Baghdad. The best way to travel from Europe is either with Austrian or Turkish Airlines. They operate several direct flights per week from Vienna and daily from Istanbul respectively. For those working for Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs) in Iraq, there are charter airlines operating into Baghdad. The frequent sandstorms that hit the area can obscure visibility and cause flights to be turned away. It is not unusual for commercial flights to make it all the way to BIAP, and then turn around and return to their origin due to limited visibility on the runway.
1 Baghdad International Airport (مطار بغداد الدولي) (16 km west from the centre of Baghdad). All of the usual airport facilities are available, such as banks, money exchange, ATMs, mobile phone companies, restaurants and even a hotel. The airport has three interlinked terminals. It is easy to walk between the terminals both land side and air side. One terminal is used by Iraqi Airways (the most counter-clockwise one) and the middle one handles all other flights. The food outlets are small and limited air side, so if you have a long wait, it is better to check in and return back through security to use the land side restaurants. When departing, be prepared for some queuing. Entrance to the airport grounds about three or four miles from the airport terminal will require you and your vehicle to wait in line to be searched. Security checkpoints can take from two to three hours to process through. BGW IATA (updated Jul 2020)
By train Baghdad is the heart of Iraqs' limited railway system. International trains, such as the famous Taurus Express from Istanbul, have been suspended since 2003 and are not likely to return for the foreseeable future. However, there are several domestic services which are useful for tourists. An overnight service connects Baghdad with the southern port city of Basra every night. Both sleeper and couchette classes are available, with price ranging from 10,000 dinars for a couchette to 25,000 dinars for premium sleepers. The train also carries a restaurant car. There are twice-daily trains from Ramadi via Fallujah and a weekly service
Getting around
While the almost daily bombings and shootings have subsided, there is always a risk of getting caught in violence when travelling around the city. Staying vigilant is essential. Many high-end hotels provide their own transport, some even with armoured cars. Baghdad is served by an extensive but chaotic bus network; maps and route information for the network are not available in English. Taxis are also plentiful and quite cheap to use. Walking is possible in parts of the city, especially in and around the old city. Cycling is not uncommon among locals, but there is next to no infrastructure to support it.
See
A combination of heavy redevelopment during the second half of the 20th century, two decades of warfare and neglect has not been kind to Baghdad's architectural and cultural heritage. Generally, the eastern side contains the older districts while the western side is newer. The historic old quarter contains a myriad of alleys and small streets with buildings dating back to the Ottoman era or even older. Many of them are unfortunately in various stages of disrepair. The old quarter is also home to the heart and soul of Iraqi literacy and intellectual community, Mutanabbi Street. The street is lined with bookstores and outdoor book stalls as well as cafés to discuss matters of the day.
1 Mustansiriya Madrasah (المدرسة المستنصرية). Often referred to as the Abbasid Palace, this medieval-era scholarly complex was established in 1227 CE. It's one of the oldest buildings still standing in Baghdad and a central landmark in the historic district. (updated Jul 2020) 2 Qushla building. Ottoman landmark building. (updated Nov 2020) 3 Baghdad Zoo (حديقة حيوانات بغداد). The largest zoo in the country, opened in 1971. It was destroyed in the 2003 war but has quickly recovered. There are, however, few larger mammals to see. (updated Dec 2017) 4 Khan Murjan (خان مرجان). Built in the 14th century as a caravanserai, an inn for traveling merchants, whose centre was a hall more than 13 metres high. (updated Sep 2021) 5 Firdos Square (ساحة الفردوس). A public open space surrounded by several artwork monuments.
Museums 6 National Museum of Iraq (المتحف العراقي). Covering the history of Mesopotamian culture, this museum housed a huge collection before the Iraq War. Many pieces were looted, but in 2022, the museum was refurbished and reopened. (updated Dec 2017) 7 Baghdadi Museum (المتحف البغدادي) (eastern bank of Tigris, 200 m from Shuhada bridge). History and folklore museum depicting life in Baghdad. (updated Feb 2017) 8 National Museum of Modern Art (المتحف الوطني للفن الحديث). While much of the rich heritage of modern Iraqi art has been lost or stolen during the recent decades, the Museum of Modern Art still holds an impressive collection. (updated Dec 2023) 9 Natural History Museum (متحف التاريخ الطبيعي). (updated Jan 2022) 10 Abdel-Karim Kassem Museum (متحف عبد الكريم قاسم). Small museum dedicated to the leader of the 14 July Revolution, Abdel-Karim Kassem, who overthrew the Iraqi monarchy in 1958. (updated Jan 2022) Iraqi Post Museum. (updated Jan 2022)
Monuments, memorials and public art Baghdad is home to many monumental monuments and displays of public art.
Do
Baghdad's cultural life is more vibrant than most visitors expect. Beyond the historical sites, the city offers riverside promenades, traditional markets worth exploring on foot, and day trips to some of Mesopotamia's most important archaeological sites.
1 Iraqi National Theatre (المسرح الوطني العراقي). (updated Dec 2021) 2 Baghdad Island Park (جزيرة بغداد السياحية) (12 km north of central Baghdad). Large outdoor amusement park with swimming pools, restaurants, cafés and an observation tower. (updated Jul 2022) 3 Abu Nawas Street (شارع أبو نواس) (Along the east bank of the Tigris in central Baghdad). Baghdad's famous riverside promenade, named after the 8th-century poet. The street comes alive in the evenings with families, street food vendors, tea houses, and restaurants serving fresh masgouf (grilled carp). One of the best places to experience everyday Baghdadi social life. (updated Mar 2026) 4 Mutanabbi Street (شارع المتنبي) (Central Baghdad, near the old quarter). Baghdad's historic booksellers' street, named after the 10th-century poet Al-Mutanabbi. Every Friday, the street hosts a bustling book market where vendors sell everything from rare Arabic manuscripts to secondhand novels. The nearby Shahbandar Café, one of Baghdad's oldest, is a popular stop. The street was badly damaged in a 2007 car bombing but has been fully rebuilt and remains the intellectual heart of the city. (updated Mar 2026)
Buy
Rugs and DVDs are available to buy. Inspect the quality of rugs carefully: Some are cheap Chinese-made rugs, and many are extremely overpriced. Also, many DVDs, especially those from street vendors, are bootlegs of varying quality.
1 Baghdad Mall (بغداد مول). Large upscale shopping mall in Baghdad, with both shops and restaurants. (updated Jan 2022)
Traditional markets
Baghdad is home to several traditional markets with vendors that both produce and sell their goods at the same market. One traditional art is coppersmithing with the Baghdad copper souk producing some of the finest copper artifacts in the world. However it and several other traditional crafts are in decline due to cheaper imported goods.
5 Souk al-Safafeer (Coppersmiths' Market) (سوق الصفافير) (Old Baghdad, near the Mustansiriya Madrasah). One of the oldest markets in Baghdad, where coppersmiths have been hammering out trays, pots, and decorative items for centuries. The rhythmic sound of metalwork is audible from several streets away. A fascinating place to watch traditional craftsmen at work and pick up handmade souvenirs. (updated Mar 2026)
Eat
Restaurants and cafés have been notorious targets for suicide bombers in the past, making eating out a quite dangerous activity.
Budget
Mid-range 1 Saj Alreef Restaurant (=صاج الريف - الكرادة), Al Wathiq Square، 62 St, ☏ +964 771 222 2860. Older but popular Baghdad restaurant featuring local as well as Western and Chinese cuisine. Comfortable interior. (updated May 2022) 2 Barley Restaurant, 42nd St, ☏ +964 783 051 4375. Daily 7AM-3:30AM. This eatery has a kind of macabre distinction of naming their large shawarma things after landmines. (updated May 2022)
Splurge 3 Samad Restaurant, Rowad St, couple blocks north of Mansour St on right, ☏ +964 773 005 5333. Daily Noon-1AM. Lots of kebabs and other meat here. Buffet. (updated May 2022) 4 Jadiriyah Floating Restaurant, Abu Nawas Street, ☏ +964 782 110 0101. Daily 7AM-Midnight. Not many places where you can eat aboard a ship in the Tigris River. Pricey and a good place to take the honey probably for a memorable buffet or masgouf and some bad Iraqi music. (updated May 2022) 5 Oyoon Baghdad Restaurant, Alsadah St, ☏ +964 780 444 4001. Daily Noon-Midnight. Rather expensive, but suited to impress an audience or spoil oneself with its views over the Tigris River and elements of Iraqi culture in its decor and food. Featuring kebabs and biryani, western food, and ice cream. Also has hookah and a gallery of cultural relics to admire. (updated May 2022) 6 La Vinto, 52nd St, ☏ +964 770 619 1919. Posh, and expensive, steakhouse with a large variety of meat. (updated Aug 2022)
Drink & nightlife
While Baghdad is undergoing something of a liberalization regarding both night life and alcohol, it is still not widely available and large parts of society frowns upon it. While some bars exists, particularly along Abu Nawas Street, a safe bet is always the bars of the top tier hotels. Many international organisations have their own bars as well, and some are open to outsiders. Tea houses and cafés are however ubiquitous, and often open late into the night.
1 Shahbandar Café, Mutanabbi St. The oldest operating tea house in Baghdad, established in 1907. A hub to discuss matters of the day over a cup of tea. (updated Sep 2021)
Sleep
Most organizations arrange their own accommodation. Sleeping in hotels in the proper city is always a risk due to bombings.
Budget
Mid-range 1 Baghdad International Airport Hotel (فندق مطار بغداد الدولي). A standard business hotel, but with quite a hefty price. On secure grounds at the airport and often used by people visiting on business. USD225 for a standard room, lower rates when staying longer. (updated Jul 2020) 2 Inter Hotel, Abu Nawas St, ☏ +964 780 926 2844. (updated Jul 2020)
Splurge 3 Babylon Rotana Baghdad Hotel, Karrada St, ☏ +964 7 505 223 333. (updated Jul 2020) 4 Coral Baghdad Hotel, Corner of Jamia St and Mohammed Ismail Ezzat St, in Jadriyah District, ☏ +964 781 440 0000, [email protected]. An upstart hotel that has quickly become one of the most popular higher-end hotels in Baghdad. USD215+. (updated Jul 2016) 5 Cristal Grand Ishtar Hotel, Saadoun St, ☏ +964 770 6770711. A hotel in central Baghdad. USD50+. (updated Nov 2018) 6 Qaser Al-Masbah Hotel (at Masbah Crossing in Karada district), ☏ +964 783 403 8087, [email protected]. Luxury hotel, restaurant on site. Free Wi-Fi. (updated Feb 2017)
Go next
Basra — second largest city in Iraq and its main port city Mosul — third largest city in Iraq Assur and Hatra — archaeological sites from the Cradle of Civilization Ctesiphon — archaeological sites just south of Baghdad
Overview adapted from Wikipedia, travel guide fromWikivoyage (CC BY-SA)。Photography via Wikimedia Commons.