Bắc Hà

Getting there

Travelling from Hanoi to Lào Cai

By train Bắc Hà can be reached by a nine-hour train journey from Hanoi to Lào Cai (pronounced lao kai), followed by a separate transfer to Bắc Hà. Vietnam Rail operates some of the carriages in the train, but others are operated by private companies (Fanxipan Express, Friendly, Ratraco, Tulico, Victoria Hotels, and many others). Some of these cars are significantly nicer than the standard cars. You may need to arrange with a travel agency to get tickets on these tourist cars, but any traveller can purchase tickets for the Vietnam Rail cars at the Hanoi train station. Warning: several of these cars are not significantly better than standard Vietnamese sleeping cars, but are still substantially more expensive. Pumpkin second class is actually a Vietnam Rail car booked through this company. Even Pumpkin first class only has a squat toilet (although a sign above the toilet door says "Western-style toilet"!). Prices vary according to both the type of seat purchased and the season during which you are travelling. Dates around Vietnamese holidays are particularly expensive and tickets cannot be assumed available for same day travel, so book ahead if possible. Travellers are strongly recommended to purchase a berth in a soft or hard sleeper car, though the trip in soft-seat class is not intolerable.

Cheaper travel. Cheaper tickets, especially in hard sleeper class, can be difficult to come by at times, as tour companies and travel agents will snap up these to foist on their own customers (too frequently a promised soft sleeper berth will turn into a hard sleeper when it comes time to board). To avoid ripoffs, it is better to go to the train station yourself and get the ticket from the ticket office. This is the only way to make sure that you will get what you have paid for. Although one cannot be assured of finding a place, it is often possible to arrive at the station a short while before boarding time, as there are usually young men

Getting around

Bắc Hà is small, so most things within the town are within walking distance.

See

Bắc Hà Sunday market (tourist buses will stop in a parking area in the centre of town; from there, roadside stalls will be visible, and walking in their direction will bring you to the heart of the market). The Sunday market (which is much larger than the Sa Pa market) is a big, colorful bazaar overflowing with everything under the sun. Most visitors will probably be interested in the embroidered fabric handicrafts such as cellphone pouches, clothes, handbags, purses, and cushion covers, tablecloths and table runners sold by minority hill tribes. Also available are scarves; T-shirts; metal jewellery and trinkets; carvings and figurines made of metal, wood and stone; and home furnishings such as place mats, and lacquered bowls and chopsticks created out of bamboo. The meat and vegetable markets make for interesting photographs, and braver tourists may even want to try eating while perched on low benches or stools at one of the roadside food stalls in the market. Locals also visit the market to purchase tools, children's toys, and household items.

Buy

See the description of the Bắc Hà Sunday market in the "See" section above.

Eat

There are a number of restaurants in the main square in the centre of town, and a few on quieter side streets.

Hoang Yen Restaurant, 9 Street 20-9 (beside the car park at the end of Ngọc Uyến Road), ☏ +84 912 005 952, +84 945 378 198, [email protected]. The food is average but it has a lively atmosphere as Sapa Green Tours arranges for its customers to dine there. Papa Russe (the only brick building in the market). A friendly host, originally from Ukraine, offering pho (Vietnamese rice noodle soup) and fried rice dishes with meat, tofu, bamboo shoots and other vegetables, and so on, at socialist prices – 20,000 dong for everything! Sure, you still pay more than the locals, but the place offers quite good value for money and a friendly atmosphere. Come late, say 19:30, to get the best of Papa's own dinner. from 20,000 dong. Restaurant Sunday Boulevard (next to Hotel Sunday Boulevard at 001 Vù Văn Mật Street), ☏ +84 203 880 618. Located on a quiet lane away from the main street, the restaurant serves reasonably priced noodle and rice dishes, fresh and deep-fried spring rolls, and other Vietnamese staples. There are two pleasant outdoor tables beside the street. 1 Spring Fair Restaurant (at the crossroads before the large Sao Mai Hotel). Best spring rolls in town, and other freshly made local dishes at reasonable prices. From 20,000 dong. Thanh Son Restaurant (across the road from the bus station), ☏ +84 20 388 0407. 06:00–22:00. A reasonably priced restaurant catering mainly to tourists.

Sleep

In general, there's no reason to stay overnight in Bắc Hà unless you have arrived on Saturday afternoon and wish to visit the Sunday market the next day, or your onward journey from Bắc Hà is on the following Monday.

Hotel Sunday Boulevard, 001 Vù Văn Mật Street (on a side street just off the town centre). 200,000–800,000 dong (more expensive on weekends; May 2013). Sao Mai Hotel (in the center of town, overlooking the Sunday market), ☏ +84 20 388 0288, +84 913 297 828, fax: +84 20 378 0352, [email protected]. 1 Toan Thang Hotel (opposite Sao Mai Hotel), ☏ +84 20 388 0444, +84 20 350 5394, fax: +84 20 388 0444, [email protected]. Basic budget rooms in an old wooden building, and slightly more comfortable heated ones in a modern stone building. Friendly owner with rudimentary English. An OK choice for a longer stay – negotiate a price in advance. 160,000–200,000 dong.

Go next

If you are unable to visit the Bắc Hà Sunday market or are staying for a few days, the following markets (some of which operate on other days of the week) are in the vicinity of Bắc Hà: Lung Phin Market (about 12 km from Bắc Hà). every Sunday. Coc Ly Market (about 35 km from Bắc Hà). every Tuesday. 1 Can Cau Market, Bàn Phố Road (about 20 km north of Bắc Hà). every Saturday. Sa Pa