Asunción

Understand

The Asunción metropolitan area is home to 2.2 million of Paraguay's 6.9 million inhabitants. It is a cosmopolitan and demographically young city with 65% of its residents under the age of 30. Many landmarks and historical buildings in the old city centre have recovered their past splendour thanks to Paraguay's bicentennial independence celebrations that took place during 2011 and demanded a lot of restoration works throughout the city. In 2012, a new riverside promenade (costanera) was opened along the Bay of Asunción which added a much needed space for running, walking and family recreation. Around the city tree-lined avenues, small parks and shady squares break up the rigid grid system of streets in the downtown area. From July to September the whole city is drenched in colour with the prolific pink and yellow bloom of lapacho trees, which grow everywhere.

History Asunción was founded in 1537 by Juan de Salazar y Espinosa, a Spaniard and member of the Pedro de Mendoza expedition which was set to colonize the Rio de la Plata basin, on 15th August the day of the feast of the Assumption of Mary, that is why is so named. It is the longest continually inhabited settlement in the Río de la Plata basin and in early colonial times it was referred to as Madre de Ciudades (mother of cities) because it was from here that numerous expeditions and missionaries set off to colonize the region founding many other settlements like Corrientes, Santa Fe, Buenos Aires and Santa Cruz de la Sierra. Asunción was established on the eastern bank of a calm bay in the river Paraguay, rendering it a good lookout post. In 1541 the first Cabildo (town council) was created transforming Asunción from a military fort to a civilian town with a local government. The first president after independence, José Gaspar Rodríguez de Francia, who ruled Paraguay from 1814 to 1840, began to put some town planning. Under his successor, Carlos Antonio López, the railway was inaugurated, and some of the handsome 19th century buildings went up. The following president, Mariscal Francisco Solano López, in the short period before he embarked on his catastrophic War of the Triple Alliance, built the grandest of the city's buildings, his own residence, known today as the Palacio de López. The city centre is an old testament to 19th century historic ideals, with names reflecting local heroes and battles. During the Chaco War against Bolivia of 1932-35 many buildings in the city were improvised as hospitals and military barracks. Since the 1970-80s internal migration from the countryside to Asunción has

Getting there

By plane

1 Silvio Pettirossi International Airport (ASU IATA) (17 km (11 mi) northeast of Asunción.).

International flights International flights are available to:

Europe – Madrid with Air Europa Argentina – Buenos Aires with Aerolíneas Argentinas, LATAM and Paranair, and Córdoba with Air Europa Brazil – São Paulo-Guarulhos with LATAM, Gol and Paranair Uruguay – Montevideo with Paranair Chile – Santiago with LATAM Bolivia – Santa Cruz de la Sierra with Amaszonas Perú – Lima with LATAM Colombia – Bogota with Avianca Panamá – Panamá City with Copa Airlines United States – Miami with Eastern Airlines (not around since 1991)

Domestic flights Domestic flights are available to:

Ciudad del Este with Paranair and Sol del Paraguay Encarnación and Pedro Juan Caballero with Sol del Paraguay Concepción, Vallemí, Fuerte Olimpo and Bahia Negra with Setam.

Ground transportation Ground transportation from the airport to the city centre takes 30–45 minutes by taxi, and they charge a fixed rate of about USD$25. There is a bus stop 200 m outside the airport terminal where you can catch city bus 30-A that will take you into the city in 1 hour and the fare is GS.3,300. There are no signs to point the way to the stop, but just walk out of the terminal and turn right. Local buses are not suited for carrying big pieces of luggage, and they don't run during the night from 23:00 to 05:00 when many flights arrive and depart. Car rental is available at the airport and many companies have offices on the arrivals floor. Also, some major hotels have their own private minibuses.

By bus

2 Terminal de Omnibus de Asunción (bus terminal) (about 5 km (3 mi) southeast of the city centre). Take a taxi or bus (city buses N°8, N°38, among many others) to go downtown. The terminal is at the junction of two main city avenues. The Avenida Fernando de la Mora in front of the bus terminal leads west to the city centre. The Avenida República Argentina at the side of the terminal goes north to Villa Morra, Carmelitas, the Business District and the airport. (updated Dec 2023) Ticket offices for all bus companies are inside the terminal on the first floor. It's also possible to buy tickets for some national long-distance destinations and international destinations at travel agencies and online at the corresponding bus company website. There are normally two types of bus services to the largest cities in Paraguay: común and directo. While the first are cheaper, they also stop in every town or bus stop along the way to pick up and drop off passengers and take longer time than the di

Getting around

The historic centre of Asunción is small enough to be explored by foot. However, some of the attractions, such as the Jardín Botánico (Botanical Garden) are a bit outside. In addition to the city's historical core - which is essentially between the streets Colón and Antequera - the Carmelitas area has become a hub for retail and entertainment, containing several large shopping centres and North American-style bars and restaurants. East-west street names change at Independencia Nacional, and North-South ones at Avenida Mariscal López.

By bus

Buses are ubiquitous, cheap and an experience in themselves (be careful while exiting, since many only slow down rather than stop for passengers to get off). They go more or less everywhere in the city: destinations are displayed on boards on the front window, if in doubt just shout your intended destination at the driver when he stops and he'll tell you yes or no. There are sometimes a few different versions of each bus number: 16, 16.1, 16.2 etc. which often have different routes from each other, so watch out not to accidentally get on the wrong one. There aren't many official bus stops in Asunción, you can just stick your arm out and flag down a bus pretty much anywhere, except in intersections of any size. No official bus schedules or maps are available (except the apps Moovit and Google Maps), but the locals know which buses go where, so just ask. (You'll need some knowledge of Spanish to do that.) The fare is GS.3,400 if the bus is air-conditioned (con aire), GS.2,300 if it isn't (as of 2026). Fares are paid with a JAHA or Más card which can be bought at supermarkets, kioskos and drugstores. Some useful bus routes:

Centre (Oliva) to Shopping del Sol: 28, 30 Centre to Shopping Mariscal Lopez/Villa Morra: 18, 26, 28, 30.2 (from Oliva), 56 (from Haedo) Centre (Oliva) to the Botanical Gardens: 1, 13 Centre (Oliva) to the Bus Terminal: 8, 36 Centre (Haedo) to Mercado 4: 2, 21, 25, 27, 29, 133 Centre (Oliva) to the airport: 30A On OpenStreetMap (which is used by mobile apps like OsmAnd or Mapy.cz), many bus stops are marked with the number of the buses passing by. This can give you a pretty good feeling about bus routes by searching for a bus number. Or just look up a destination and which bus numbers go there, then search for your nearest bus stop with any of the identified numbers.

By taxi

Taxis are also available and reasonably inexpensive. Many of the taxis are old, lumbering diesel Mercedes, which can be a fun throwback. A 30% surcharge is added on late at night (after around 22:00) and on Sundays. Tippi

See

1 National Congress of Paraguay (Palacio Legislativo), ☏ +595 21 414-5198. One of the more impressive new buildings in the city. It was built in 2002 with $20 million donation from the Republic of China (Taiwan) government. Paraguay is one of the few countries and also the only country in South America that recognizes the Republic of China (Taiwan) as opposed to mainland China (People's Republic of China). Most striking is its mirrored façade, which reflects the nearby slums along the bank of the river. You can ask for a tour in English; and maybe get one. Arrive by 13:00, so that you will be able to visit the small museum inside. (updated May 2026) 2 Metropolitan Cathedral (Catedral Metropolitana). The national cathedral. Next to the broad and picturesque plaza Independencia. (updated May 2017) 3 Panteón Nacional de los Héroes, Palma esquina Chile. Houses the tomb of the unknown soldier along with other national heroes from Paraguay's history, also commemorative plaques for heroes of the Triple Alliance and Chaco War. Changing of the guard occurs every other day. (updated May 2026) 4 Centro Cultural El Cabildo, Avenida República y Alberdi (at one edge of Plaza de la Independencia), ☏ +595 21 443 094, [email protected]. Tu-F 09:00-20:00; Sa Su 10:00-17:00. One of the few museums that open on weekends it's in an old colonial building that was the Congress Palace until 2003. Near the riverside costanera it has various exhibition spaces. The Sala Museo del Barro is one of the sections which presents pieces of indigenous art from native groups of Paraguay and Latin America. Another permanent exhibition space is the Sala Agustín Pío Barrios - Mangoré, which treasures the life and work of the great composer of the Paraguayan guitar. Another section is the Sala de la Escena Paraguaya - Edda de los Ríos which aims to disseminate everything related to the performing arts in Paraguay. There are also works from potter artist Julia Isídrez exhibiting a variety of clay works, in dark tone, with designs of faces, animals and nature figures. The Cabildo also incorporates works from traditional Christmas cribs by local artists such as Lucy Yegros, Gabriela Zuccolillo and Carlo Spatuzza. Free. (updated Apr 2018) 5 Casa de la Independencia, 14 de Mayo esquina Presidente Franco (one block down from Palma Street), ☏ +595 21 493918, [email protected]. M-F 08:00-18:00; Sa 08:00-13:00. Historic house built in 1772 where the independence of Paraguay was secretly planned in 1811. Well preserved historic museum furnished with items of historic and artisti

Do

Trade fair. Every July. An exhibition booths, food, music and liquor. This is a good way to learn about what goes on in the country, the exhibitors range from agricultural suppliers to liquor manufacturers. Keep an eye out for the many free samples of food, soap, drinks, etc. (updated Jun 2018) 1 Ñu Guazu. Spend the day or enjoy a picnic at Ñu Guazu, Asunción's biggest park. Full of ponds, and people playing sports. 2 Running, Parque Ñu Guazú. Lots of elite Asunceños work off the stresses of their days at Parque Ñu Guazú, just outside Asunción in the city of Luque, on the way to the airport. There's a great paved 9-km loop for jogging or walking. 3 Jardín Botánico y Zoológico, Av Primer Presidente, ☏ +595 21 281 389. Visit the botanical garden and zoo - it's a very peaceful place filled with trees and nice paths. Find a nice shady spot and enjoy a picnic lunch. Inside the park you can visit Madame Lynch's house, very beautiful example of Paraguayan colonial architecture. (updated May 2017) Dusk walk. Walk the main roads of the center in Asunción between 15-17:00 for beautifully illuminated alleys and colored buildings for some great pictures. (updated Jun 2018)

Soccer Watch a soccer match at one of Asunción's stadiums. The classic rivals are Cerro Porteno and Olimpia.

4 Estadio Defensores del Chaco, Sajonia. 42,354 capacity stadium which is home of the Paraguay national football team, Club Guaraní and Club Olimpia. (updated Sep 2023) 5 Estadio General Pablo Rojas. 45,000 capacity stadium home to Cerro Porteño. (updated Sep 2023)

Historic centre (walking tour) To start walking the microcentro of Asunción go to the bottom of Calle Colón, just before it corners El Paraguayo Independiente, are the colonial façades of La Recova, an array of shops selling local arts and crafts. The river port and Aduana (customs) building are just in front. Continue east along Calle El Paraguayo Independiente to the Palacio de López (government palace) from 1857. It was built in the style of Versailles by Alan Taylor as a palace for Francisco Solano López. Directly opposite the palace is the Manzana de la Rivera, a museum and cultural centre complex comprising ten colonial-era houses, some of which date back from the 1700s and have been nicely restored. They include the Casa Viola, reportedly the oldest house of Asunción, which now houses the Museo Memoria de la Ciudad with historical photos and city information. Casa Clari with exhibition halls and a nice bar which has the best views over the government palace. Other spaces in the complex are the Miguel Acevedo Cult

Buy

The cost of buying goods and services is amazingly cheap, especially electronics. Some goods may be refurbished items, or cheaply made, or could be pirated or smuggled items. Always ask for a legitimacy or warranty certificate and if you have any doubt or do not trust the vendor, just go to another store. Commercial activity in the city centre closes from Saturday afternoon to all Sunday and the city may appear fairly deserted, but the bustle is in the neighbourhoods of Villa Morra, Carmelitas and the Business District where the main shopping centers, department stores, boutiques, cafés, fast food, restaurants and cinemas are, and they don't close on weekends.

Indigenous crafts and artisan work Indigenous crafts and artisan work are available such as tooled leather, carved wood, pottery and a particularly Paraguayan lace based on a spider's web called "Ñandutí". Check out the artisan shops in Plaza de los Heroes. Most goods are in fact locally made.

Shopping malls There are two main malls in Asuncion: Shopping del Sol on Aviadores del Chaco and Shopping Mariscal López on Avenida Mariscal Lopez, exist in the suburbs of Villa Mora and Carmelitas. Take buses 28 or 30 to reach them. Mall Excelsior on Chile, and the more basic Asuncion Supercentro on the western end of Oliva are both in the centre. These "Shoppings" are useful as places to eat on Sunday evenings, when many more central places are closed.

2 Shopping del Sol (delSol Shopping & Lifestyle), ☏ +595 21 606 909. (updated Apr 2023) 3 Shopping Mariscal López, Quesada 5050. (updated Apr 2023) 4 Mall Excelsior, Manduvira, ☏ +595 21 443 015. (updated Apr 2023) 5 Asuncion Super Centro, ☏ +595 21 493 333. (updated Apr 2023)

Markets 6 Palma Street, Calle Palma. The main shopping street. Pretty much everything you can buy here, you can get cheaper in one of the parallel streets. 7 Mercado 4, along Avenida Sivio Pettirossi. A chaotic market where you can buy just about anything very cheaply, it is particularly good for counterfeit clothing and pirated CDs and DVDs (of varying quality). Most Paraguayans still shop at local produce markets, but you can buy everything at great prices. Good street food and some foreign, mostly Chinese, restaurants. Sunday flea market, along calle Palma. From early morning until noon approximately. Several old men set up their tables selling trinkets, photographs and books. (updated May 2017) Typical souvenirs from Asunción would include guampas/bombillas, T-shirts, traditional lace, or leather goods.

Traveller's cheques American Express traveller's cheques can

Eat

At lunchtime there is no shortage of cheap restaurants to dine in or take away – you can't miss them. The places where you help yourself and pay by weight are usually very cheap and a decent option besides the slightly more expensive restaurants with their daily menu. At dinner time only very few eating places are still open and finding a good deal – especially if you are budget-conscious – is a lot harder.

Budget Most shopping malls have decent food courts with a variety of restaurants, however, they are away from the centre. Bigger supermarkets often have cheap self-service restaurants inside. Eat a streetside lomito- these vendors are found throughout the city, with high concentrations near Casa Rica and the Ñu Guazu. It is a sandwich, with mayo, veggies, cheese and a fried egg. You can choose between beef or chicken. Some also offer lomito arabe (shawarma), hamburgers and chorizo. It is a popular hang out place at nights and after a night of heavy drinking. Don Vito is Paraguayan fast food at its best. Home of the Paraguayan empanada, they have been in business for over 30 years. The original spot is just behind the Iglesia de San Jose, and if you are lucky enough to be in Paraguay around May–June, you can order a pastel mandi'o, which is made of mandioca and beef. Best enjoyed with a cold pulp, a Paraguayan soft drink made with natural fruit juice.

1 Burger King, Palma between 14 de Mayo and 15 de Agosto. If you fancy something you know. Also, open in the evening. 2 Ña Eustaquia, 421 Palma, past Lido's and the hall of martyrs, near Burger King. Very busy for lunch, you may need to wait for a table. Main lunches cost GS.15,000–GS.25,000. Great juice bar there too. 3 Seoul, Chile, near the intersection with Oliva (Plaza de los Heroes) and opposite an Esso petrol station. Open for lunch and dinner (19:30). Korean buffet, with many vegetarian options where you fill your plate and pay per weight.

Mid-range 4 El Bolsi, corner Estrella and Alberdi, ☏ +595 21 491841, [email protected]. Daily 24 hours. Opened in 1960, it's one of the oldest restaurants in town. It has a café and pastry section, and a separate restaurant section. Also, an outdoor section on the sidewalk is pleasant in the evenings. International and local dishes. Very popular among locals and tourists. (updated May 2018) 5 Lido Bar, corner of Palma and Chile (opposite Panteón del los Héroes), ☏ +595 21 447332. 06:30-01:30. Established 1954 in the style of a contemporary American cafe-bar, Lido Bar has hardly changed. It was the first place Anthony Bourdain visited when he made his t

Drink & nightlife

Bars and clubs

1 Britannia Pub, Cerro Corá 851 (next to Hotel Crowne Plaza), ☏ +595 21 443 990, [email protected]. Tu-F from 19:30, Sa-Su from 20:00. Popular hangout for locals and foreigners. Try their microbrewed Britannia Beer and the chicken platter. 2 904 Bar, Cerro Corá 904 (in front of Hotel Crowne Plaza), ☏ +595 986 230963. M-Th from 18:00, F from 17:00, Sa from 19:00. A lot like Britannia: similar food, similar drinks, similar prices. Has a pool table, and occasionally puts on live-music shows. 3 Coyote, Sucre 1655 (100m from Avenida San Martín), ☏ +595 21 414 111. Dance club, fashionable but loud (updated Oct 2017) 4 Hollywood Dance, Independencia Nacional and Teniente Fariña (One block away from Mall Excelsior), ☏ +595 981 906494. F and Sa from around midnight. Dance venue for mostly gay people. 5 Paseo Carmelitas, ☏ +595 21 608226. from morning till late. Food plaza with a selection of bars and restaurants to go at noon for lunch and after office until late at night. One of the most popular places in Asuncion during the night and on weekends. 6 La Tabernita, Chila 1179 between Avenida Ygatimí and Jejuí (near Plaza Italia), ☏ +595 21 453620, [email protected]. 07:00-15:00 and 18:30-late. A cafe bar with good atmosphere, good music, drinks and very friendly staff (if you like 1970s, 80s, 90s rock & pop). 7 Casa Clari, Ayolas and Benjamin Constant (inside Manzana de la Rivera complex in front to Palacio de López), ☏ +595 21 496 476. Really nice views of the López Palace. Good food/drink menu, but slightly pricier than other bars in the centre.

Sleep

The lodging scene in Asunción has greatly improved. The hostel range, previously nonexistent, started business in the past decade and since then has seen a lot of new openings, especially in old houses of the historic city centre. On the other hand, many new modern hotels, including some luxury properties of international brands, have opened their doors in the new business district of Avenida Aviadores del Chaco and Avenida Santa Teresa. Finding a bed should not be difficult for the common traveller. The highest concentration of hotels from budget to splurge can be found in the historic city centre and the new business district. There are also quite a number of cheap places near the bus terminal, though you normally get better values in the city centre.

City Centre The centro histórico is where the traditional hotels are found, some of them occupying beautiful buildings from the 1960s and even from the 19th century. This is also where the hostels are, so backpackers and budget travellers are normally found in this area.

Hostels

1 Black Cat Hostel (temporarily closed, momentarily we only offer tourist advice), Eligio Ayala 129 casi Independencia Nacional (At the heart of city centre. One block north from main square. One block south from cathedral.), ☏ +595 21 449827. The first hostel for backpackers in Asunción. Breakfast included in room rate, fully equipped kitchen for the guests and WiFi Internet, luggage storage and safety deposit. Swimming pool and a beautiful terrace with a grill for cookouts. Single private room with a/c US$20; double private room with a/c (double bed or twin) US$35; double private room en suite with a/c (double bed) US$45; 8-bed mixed dorm with a/c US$12 per person; 14-bed mixed dorm US$9 per person. (updated Jul 2022) 2 El Viajero Asuncion Hostel & Suites, Alberdi 734 casi Humaitá, ☏ +595 21 444563. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. Single US$26, double US$30, bed in dormitory room US$9. (updated Jul 2022) 3 Giuseppe Hostal & Suites, Eligio Ayala 1037 (near downtown), ☏ +595 21 211479, +595 21 200397, [email protected]. Check-in: 14:00. Breakfast included. double US$41 w/private bathroom. (updated Jul 2022) 4 Hostal El Jardin, Azara 941 between Estados Unidos and Tacuary, ☏ +595 985 807007, [email protected]. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Situated in a historical building in downtown Asuncion. Clean, comfortable dorms as well as privates rooms. Toilets and showers separated for men and women w/ 24h hot water. Common area w/ cable-TV, rustic fully equipped kitchen, free breakfast and fre

Go next

A visit to an Estancia makes a good day off or so from Asunción (some are within easy reach of public transport). Horseriding, fishing, swimming, guided nature walks are among the activities offered. Those who participate in APATUR (get the booklet from the tourist information) have generally a high standard. Some can only be visited during the day others have accommodation (expect about 80 US$ per night including all food and activities). Bookings can be made through TACP (021-210 550) or by contacting the Estancias directly. Travel agencies also offer trips to Estancias and typically include private transport back and forth. Circuito de Oro (Golden Circuit). A day-trip itinerary to a series of historical towns in the vicinity of Asunción, such as: San Lorenzo, Yaguarón, Caacupé, Pirayú, Sapucai. (updated Sep 2023) 1 Areguá. A lakeside town about 20 km from Asunción and makes a good day trip. There are buses going there costing the standard fare, e.g. GS.3,300, from the Bus Terminal passing by the Shopping del Sol. There are a series of art galleries and museums to visit. (updated Sep 2023) 2 San Bernardino. Paraguay's liveliest balneario, a summer destination for the young and beautiful. Originally settled by German immigrants, you can still see some houses remaining from that period. The Lago Ypacarai used to be known as the blue lake, is no longer blue, but filled with people doing water sports from December–February. (updated Sep 2023) 3 San Lorenzo. Museo Etnografico Guido Bogiani- indigenous wood carvings and feather pieces. A nice and cheap store selling indigenous handicrafts. Call before going. It's in nearby San Lorenzo: be sure to take a taxi driver who knows the place, as most people in San Lorenzo do not know of its existence. (updated Sep 2023) 4 Encarnación. On the way, stop at ruins and churches along the Jesuit trail. Santa Maria de Fe is a small town where you can see women embroidering in a sisterhood community. (updated Sep 2023) 5 Pilar. This riverside city is the country's biggest cotton manufacturing industry and with a very relaxed atmosphere. (updated Sep 2023)