Armenia

Understand

History Armenia has been around for at least 3,000 years. Armenians have historically inhabited the "Armenian Highlands", a vast section of mountains and valleys across eastern Anatolia and the Southern Caucasus. It is here that the biblical mountain of Ararat (and today's eponymous cognac brand) can be found. Armenia is the world's first Christian country, ever since the king officially adopted Christianity in 301 AD. Various vassal states (Hittites, Hayasa, etc.), principalities, Armenian kingdoms of Orontids, Artaxiads, and Arsacids rose and fell in different parts of this highland during history. They were unified once, just before the time of Christ, in the empire of Tigran the Great (95-55 BC), which stretched from the Caspian to the Mediterranean Sea. Much of the region's history has since been spent under the dominion of whichever great power was à la mode at the time: Romans, Byzantines, Mongols, Ottomans, Persians, Russians and Soviets have all come and gone. These empires often fought their wars on Armenian territory, using Armenian soldiers. Despite rarely being politically independent, Armenians have consistently kept their language and their church. Its location on the silk road allowed Armenians to forge a link in the great network of merchant communities that extended from Singapore and Malaysia to Venice and Amsterdam. The modern independent state of Armenia only comprises part of the traditional Armenian lands. It includes much of what was historically known as Eastern Armenia, while the historical Western Armenia, in which Mount Ararat, the holiest site in the world for Armenians, is located, is today part of Turkey. Western Armenia was largely ethnically cleansed of its Armenian population during the Armenian Genocide.

Modern history Russians and Ottomans dominated Armenia's modern history. Ottoman control was established early, upon the fall of the Byzantine empire in the fifteenth century. Russia's presence was established later, in the 1820s, after a series of wars with the Persians. Islamic Ottoman rule was, for much of the time, largely benign. The Armenians' religious autonomy was bought through their higher taxation. However, relations soured in the late nineteenth century which saw various massacres of Armenians. This culminated in the Ottomans' reputation being thoroughly ruined during the Armenian Genocide of 1915–1923. The late 1980s and early 1990s saw a devastating earthquake in northern Armenia, Armenia's independence from the Soviet Union, the first Karabakh war, and the imposition of a blockade by Turkey and Azerb

Getting there

Armenia's visa policy is remarkably open. Most people can obtain a visa on arrival or visit the country without a visa.

Visa requirements

Visa-free Citizens from the following locations can travel to Armenia visa free for 180 days per year: Albania, Andorra, Argentina, Australia, Belarus, Brazil, China (PRC), European Union, Georgia, Hong Kong, Iceland, Iran, Japan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Liechtenstein, Macau, Moldova, Monaco, Montenegro, Nagorno-Karabakh, New Zealand, Norway, Qatar, Russia, San Marino, Serbia, Singapore, South Korea Switzerland, Tajikistan, Ukraine, United Arab Emirates, United Kingdom, United States, Uruguay, Uzbekistan and Vatican City.

Visa on arrival For all others (except a handful of mainly African countries; see below), 21-day tourist visas are available upon arrival at Yerevan airport and at some land crossings at the price of 3,000 dram for 21 days and 15,000 (Armenian) dram for 120 days. At Yerevan airport, there is a currency exchange and an ATM located before customs and immigration. There is a hefty surcharge of approximately US$10 for changing traveler checks, which in general are not widely used in Armenia. At some land crossings, border guards will take other currencies but only at lousy rates. Try to have Armenian dram before arriving at the border. Some travellers have been charged as much as US$20 (the approximate equivalent of three times the official price), but as of August 2015 you will be charged US$10 for a 21-day visa at the Bagratashen-Sadakhlo border crossing. Border guards and customs officers will not be able to change a US$100 note, so check the current exact amount and have some spare small-value notes. As of 2022, not all land border crossings allow for visa on arrival. You may be denied entry and turned around at the border, which, if you've come by marshrutka/minibus, means that you will be stranded until you are able to find a new bus or hitchhike back to Tbilisi. If in any doubt, get the E-visa in advance.

Visa in advance A slightly more expensive option (officially at least) is the e-Visa (US$10 for 21 days; US$40 for 120 days). These e-Visas are processed completely online and take up to two business days to be issued. They allow entry into Armenia through Yerevan Airport and the following land border crossings: from Georgia, Ayrum railway station, Bavra, Bagratashen and Gogavan; and from Iran at Meghri. A 21-day visa obtained in advance from an embassy (not online) costs US$8. The unlucky few that cannot obtain a visa on arrival must apply for a visa at an embassy or consulate befor

Getting around

By bus or marshrutka Public transportation is very good and inexpensive (about 100 dram/10 km) in Armenia, with timetables here and connections here. Use google translator if you do not read Armenian. It can also be tough to get to more remote sites outside of populated areas. The system could be described as a hub and spoke system, with each city offering local transportation to its surrounding villages and each city offering connections to Yerevan. Most inter-city travel is by 14-seat minibuses or buses. Yerevan has several bus interchange stations that serve the whole country, so depending on where you want to go, you should find out which bus interchange station services the area of your destination. Unlike many countries in Eastern Europe, many Armenian marshrutkas do not sell tickets beforehand, and do not issue tickets at all. However, in some larger cities/towns there will be a ticket office where you must buy a ticket beforehand. This is more likely to be the case for longer journeys, but if in doubt ask the driver. Otherwise, you pay the driver, at any point in the trip (though some will collect at the beginning). Exact change is never required, but a 20,000 dram note for a 1,000 dram ride might present a problem. Tips are unheard of on public transportation. Be aware these buses are usually overcrowded and do not have AC in summer.

Transport for Armenia (Journey Planner). An amazing journey planner website and non-government project run by volunteers to improve public transport in Armenia for Yerevan and for the rest of the country. Since this service is also available in English and Russian, this website is not just great for locals but travellers likewise. They also have the prices available for numerous inter-city marshrutkas—no more discussion with marshrutka drivers. FB. (updated Nov 2019)

By train Most trains in Armenia are Soviet-era stock. Two lines have new faster trains: the international Yerevan-Tbilisi (+Batumi in the summer), and the Yerevan-Gyumri line that runs Friday-Saturday-Sunday. All other trains are slow but incredibly cheap (1,000 dram Gyumri-Yerevan). There are several daily trains towards Gyumri and one to Yeraskh at the closed border with Nakhichevan. On summer weekends, one daily train operates from the northern Almast station to Lake Sevan, all the way to Shorzha on the far side (unavailable as of May 2019). See the official timetable for details: www.railway.am The only station north of Gyumri that is officially accessible to passengers is Vanadzor, where the Georgia-bound train stops. North of Vanadzor there

See

Armenia lies at the root of the Christian faith, as it is known as the first country that was evangelized by two of Jesus' own disciples. Today, there is still a wealth of religious heritage to see. Beautiful churches and monasteries are omnipresent, and some are up to 1700 years old. A few of the most important ones are listed on Unesco's World Heritage list. To start, there is the monastery of Geghard, carved out of a mountain slope and dramatically situated between the stunning cliffs of the Azat river gorge. Once you are there, the Garni Temple with its Roman temple is just a quick stop downriver. The Etchmiadzin Cathedral in Vagharshapat is the headquarters of the Armenian Church and has parts dating back to the 5th century, making it considered the oldest cathedral in the world. The Monasteries of Sanahin and Haghpat are just across the tops of the Debed Canyon from each other, which is full of great hiking trails. Both date back to the 10th century. The 7th century Zvartnots Cathedral is now in ruins, but considered of great archeological value. If you are up for some of Armenia's oldest churches, consider the ancient basilicas at Yereruyk, Odzun, Byurakan or Aparan. Some heritage sights sit in beautiful valleys. The monastery of Noravank is a good sight in the lovely brick-red Amaghu Canyon, while the monasteries of Tatev and Tatevi Anapat sit in the Vorotan Valley - a gorgeous area with great landscapes and dotted with churches and abandoned cliff-side villages. Unlisted but surely beautiful is the monastery of Khor Virap. It offers great views of Mount Ararat which is in Turkey, but is nonetheless seen on the Armenian coat of arms. Another hot spot for travelers is Lake Sevan. In summer, the beaches of this massive high-altitude fresh water lake (one of the largest in the world), are a popular destination for anything from day trips to camp site vacations and resort holidays. This famous mountain can be seen (weather permitting) from the nation's capital, Yerevan. Yerevan is Armenia's cultural center, with plenty of opera and theatre to go around. The Museum of Armenian History has an excellent collection and the Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum has a sad but worthwhile story to tell. For a more casual activity, visit the lively Vernissage Market or climb the massive hillside stairway of the Yerevan Cascade, which is densely dotted with an incredible modern art collection.

Do

Hiking – Armenia has an endless amount of hiking trails and peaks to discover. South of Lake Sevan Region, around Garni, up and down the Debed Canyon, and Southern Armenia are just a few of the highlights. For reliable maps and comprehensive trails and map information, consult OpenStreetMap, which is used by this travel guide, and by many mobile Apps like OsmAnd (comprehensive with many add-ons) and MAPS.ME (simple but limited). Cycling – Bike Armenia Tour Route has a great route mapped out to see Armenia by bicycle. Events – A list of upcoming events can be found on the official tourism website. Otherwise: rock climbing, wind surfing, sun bathing, camping, and even skiing

Buy

Money

The Armenian currency is known as the dram, sometimes denoted by the symbol "Դ" (ISO currency code: AMD). Wikivoyage will use dram in its articles to identify the currency. Coins of Armenia are issued in denominations of 10Դ, 20Դ, 50Դ, 100Դ, 200Դ and 500Դ. Banknotes of Armenia are issued in denominations of 1,000Դ, 2,000Դ, 5,000Դ, 10,000Դ, 20,000Դ, 50,000Դ and 100,000Դ. The dram is accepted everywhere, and in some rare cases US dollars will be accepted for larger purchases, though the dram is the only legal currency for commerce. US dollars, euros and Russian rubles can be exchanged almost anywhere in the country, with other major currencies also easy to exchange. Exchange booths and commercial banks do not charge a commission and rates are almost always quite competitive. The exchange rates for local banks and exchange points are available at rate.am ATMs (Bankomats) are widely available in larger towns; though outside of Yerevan, you should have a major system such as Visa or MasterCard on your card for it to work. Credit cards are not widely accepted outside Yerevan.

Shopping

Armenian carpets, cognac, fruits, handicrafts and Soviet memorabilia are some of the most popular things people take home from Armenia. Most of these are plentiful at Vernissage, a seemingly never-ending weekend flea market next to Republic Square with the more touristy stuff in the back half, further from Republic Square. There are several shopping malls in Yerevan, as well as many supermarkets and small stores and boutiques. Most shops and restaurants are open every day and offices and schools are open Monday to Saturday. Mornings are usually slow, and places do not tend to open early, or even on time.

Bargaining and tipping Bargaining is uncommon in Armenian stores, though when purchasing expensive items or bulk, they may be amenable to it. In markets, however, bargaining is a must! Tipping is increasingly common in Armenia, especially at cafes and restaurants. Many Armenians will simply round up their checks, or leave ten percent. Some café staff are only compensated in the tips they earn, though you cannot always tell by the service they provide. Many restaurants have begun to charge a 10% “service fee” which they usually do not share with the waiters, and it is not clear for what it is used. This fee is often not clearly stated on the menu, so you should ask if you want to know. Tipping is usually not expected in taxis, but again, rounding up is not uncommon.

Markets Vernisage Crafts and Flea Market - every Saturday and Sunday near Republic Square, ther

Eat

Main dishes Khorovats – A barbecue which can be chunks of pork, lamb, chicken or beef (called Shashlik in other post-Soviet countries). Usually, it is flavored with onions and other Armenian spices. Tomatoes, eggplant and bell peppers are also part of the khorovats meal. Kebab is the ground-meat version of khorovats, and is cheaper. Harissa – A kind of homogeneous porridge made of previously stewed and boned chicken or lamb and coarsely ground soaked shelled wheat. The dish dates back many centuries, and is traditionally served on Easter day. It is considered a national dish of Armenia, and is widely prepared by Armenians around the world. Borscht – A commonly served Ukrainian vegetable soup. It is traditionally made with beetroot as a main ingredient, which gives it a strong red color. It is usually served warm with fresh sour cream. Khash – A traditional dish, originating in the Shirak region. Formerly a nutritious winter food for the rural poor, it is now considered a delicacy, and is enjoyed as a festive winter meal. Made from less commonly used parts of animals, most visitors consider it an acquired taste. Dolma – Stuffed grape leaves; varieties with stuffed cabbage leaves, or bell peppers and aubergines also exist. Byorek – Consists of phyllo dough folded into triangles and stuffed with cheese, spinach or minced beef, and the filling is typically spiced. A popular combination is spinach, feta, cottage cheese (or pot cheese) and a splash of anise-flavored liquor (such as raki). Ishli kufta and Kufta – Best described as when bulgur meets meat. Very delicious and a must-try. Jingalov Hats (Lavash bread stuffed with herbs) – A specialty from Karabagh, and best tried fresh from the afternoon market in Stepanakert.

Desserts and snacks Gata or Nazook – A flaky pastry with a sweet filling. Alani – Pitted dried peaches stuffed with ground walnuts and sugar. Kadaif (ghataif) – Shredded dough with cream, cheese, or chopped walnut filling, soaked with sugar syrup. Anoushabour – Dried fruits stewed with barley, garnished with chopped almonds or walnuts (a traditional Christmas pudding). Ttu lavash – flat thin sheets of dried fruit, often made from plum, apricot or sour cherries Manti – A type of dumpling

Various Armenian fruits and vegetables are special. One should definitely try them and will never forget the taste of Armenian apricot, peach, grapes, pomegranate, etc. Especially the watermelons in Armenia and neighboring countries with similar altitude and climate are of superior taste. Armenian bread is very tasty. There is a wide range of different

Drink & nightlife

Alcoholic: Vodka, tutti oghi (mulberry vodka), honi oghi (cornelian cherry vodka), Tsirani oghi (apricot vodka), local beer (Kilikia, Kotayk, Gyumri), wine (can also be made of pomegranate), and brandy. Respected wines include Karas, Karasi, Kataro, Armenia and some new wines hitting the market. Many are made with Armenian grape varietals not being grown anywhere else in the world. Areni is one of the most popular grape sorts which the largest number of red wines are made from, and the name of Armenia's wine country, while khndoghni is a variety grown in southern Karabakh that the Kataro wine is made from. Other: Tan (yogurt combined with water and salt), Jermuk (mineral water), masuri hyut (rose hip juice), chichkhani hyut (sea buckthorne juice), bali hyut (sour cherry juice), Armenian coffee, and herbal teas.

Sleep

Across Armenia, you can find bed and breakfasts that are pleasant and will give you a true taste of Armenian culture. The language barrier will be significant in the rural areas of Armenia if you do not speak Armenian or Russian, but if you take a phrase dictionary with you, you should have no trouble, as people are patient. Any effort to utter an Armenian phrase or term will be met with a friendly smile. In Yerevan, there are a couple of hostels. Outside Yerevan, there are a few main recreational areas that offer very reasonable accommodation, but you will be required to live without some conveniences. At the high end are some hotels on Lake Sevan and in Northern Lori Marz (50 km from the Georgian border). Here you will miss nothing, but you will pay Western prices for the accommodation. Around Lake Sevan, there are numerous types of cottages and hotels. Prices are reasonable and start at about US$10 per day for a cottage with electricity and within walking distance from Lake Sevan. The city of Sevan, due to its proximity to Yerevan, is the most popular place on Lake Sevan but the history, culture and non-Western European feel of the accommodation change as you go south on Lake Sevan. Tavush Marz, the northeast province of Armenia, is a popular place to summer. Dilijan and Ijevan are wonderful towns in which to be based, with day trips to the many ancient churches that pepper this remote region. Dilijan is known for its sanatoriums from the Soviet era, and has become home to a big restaurant scene. Lori Marz, with the stunning Debed Canyon, is one of the most beautiful areas of Armenia. It has numerous churches, monasteries, medieval bridges and monuments. The Debed Canyon and Stepanavan areas are great for hiking, wild camping, historical monuments and interesting and unusual attractions such as the Tumanyan Matchbox Label Museum. Small hotels and B&Bs are available in the area of Stepanavan, Odzun, Tumanyan, etc. Tsaghkadzor is a well-known winter retreat. It has many lovely hotels and is popular year round. Check with a travel agent to find the best deal depending on what activity you are looking to undertake. Jermuk, made famous by the bottled water of the same name, is a wonderful get away, with accommodation for every type of traveler, hot water treatments and spas.

Go next

The land border can be crossed to Georgia (north) and Iran (south).