Antananarivo

Understand

A city of some 1.6 million people at 1280 m, Antananarivo became established by Merina King Andrianjaka around 1610, when he drove out the Vazimba people to create the Kingdom of Imerina. First called Analamanga, the city was renamed Antananarivo, meaning city of the thousand, later by King Andriamasinavalona, in honor of his soldiers. After a period of French rule starting in 1897 and a failed armed rebellion in 1947–1948, the city and country emerged as independent in 1960. Merina and other Malagasy people along with Chinese, Indian, and Europeans live in the city today.

Climate

Antananarivo has a mountainous temperate climate, despite being situated in the tropics, due to its high elevation of 1,300–1,400 m (4,265 to 4,593 ft) above sea level. Antananarivo receives practically all of its average annual 1,400 mm (55.1 in) of rainfall between November and April. The dry season between May and October is pleasant and sunny, although somewhat chilly, especially during the nights, and in the mornings and evenings. Although frosts are rare in Antananarivo, they are common at higher elevations. The daily and monthly temperature variations are quite small. Means range from 22.2 °C (72.0 °F) to 15.3 °C (59.5 °F).

Getting there

Antananarivo is the main entry point for Madagascar by air. International flights to the capital are covered in the main Madagascar page.

By plane 1 Ivato International Airport (TNR IATA). Antananarivo's major airport. It is served by Ethiopian Airlines, Turkish Airlines, Air France, Air Mauritius, and Kenya Airways. During high season, expect lengthy queues, numerous forms to fill out and chaotic handling for hygiene check, visa purchase and immigration. Once you get past baggage claim, expect a mass of individuals pestering you to "help" you with your luggage or to show you how to find a taxi (evidence of the country's 25% unemployment rate). The "porters" are particularly bad, so hold on to your bags and load them yourself into your transport; anyone who can get a hand on your bag will then follow you demanding remuneration. If you do need help with your luggage, it is wise to arrange an airport pick-up before arrival. However, in the shoulder season and beyond there is a much calmer and more relaxed atmosphere at the airport with few to no porters left, helpful taxi drivers, and fast, friendly but still somewhat chaotic immigration services. (updated Jul 2023) There are two ATMs: MCB (Mastercard and Visa) and BFV-Société Générale (Mastercard and Visa) — in the international terminal. There are 24 hour exchange windows inside the international terminal and outside of the airport in a separate building adjacent to the parking lot. Transport in a private vehicle to the city center will cost 60,000–80,000 Ar (June 2023) – costs will be at the high end of the cost spectrum after daylight hours. It will take a half hour in the late evening and early morning to reach the city center, and usually more than an hour during other times when the roads are congested; if you are transiting through Tana overnight, consider a hotel near the airport.

The taxi brousse is an incredibly cheap option, and should cost 2×800=1600 Ar from the airport to downtown. You need to take two seats: one for you and one for your bag (if you can't/don't want to balance it on your lap for an hour). Look for the mini buses with a big red D sign on them. Tsara Car Rental, ☏ +261 34 59 036 39, [email protected]. Provides airport shuttle service with shared ride or private; 1–7 passengers aboard van. Shared: 20,000 Ar per person; private: 50,000 Ar for 1–3 passengers, 110,000 Ar for 4–7 passengers.

By road

For travelling by road, there are three options: a private vehicle hire, a scheduled bus service or taxi brousse (bush taxi). Vehicles can be hired through various agen

Getting around

The city centre is focused on Avenue de L'Independence. Restaurants and shops line both sides of the road and it's the place to go if you want to visit a restaurant or decent cafe, including a good pizzeria and a take-away pizza restaurant. There are also internet cafes and photo-printing facilities. There are three main methods of navigating the capital: taxi, bus and on foot.

Taxis are preferred by most tourists and can be found easily. There are no meters, agree the rate with the driver before entering the taxi. Expect to be quoted 5,000 Ar for a short ride in town and 20,000 Ar for a longer ride; a one-way trip to the airport will be 40,000–60,000 Ar. 60,000 at night. A taxi can be hired for half a day or a day, expect to be quoted 150,000 Ar for half a day. You can bargain. That traffic tends to be heavy in Analakely (Antananrivo's centre and busiest area) during typical rush hour times, allow for extra time if you need to pass that area on your way to the airport. Taxi-bes typically are old and smoky Mercedes-Benz TN that go along a defined, numbered route. If you are comfortable being squeezed onto a van with other people, the buses, or Taxi-be, are the most affordable form of transportation, with prices around 600 Ar. There is no plan of the route system, nor is there a timetable, only locals use Taxi-be. While the city is quite large, Analakely is fairly navigable on foot. Prepare for a slalom around market stalls, cars, holes and other obstacles, don't carry anything you need, in particular valuables.

See

The city is really attractive and a photographers dream. The architecture is a mix of French countryside and Indonesia. Rice paddies scattered all over the city add a brilliant green to the pastel terracotta of the buildings.

1 Rova (Queen's palace). Royal palace complex and former residence of the rulers of the Merina Kingdom. A cab ride (or very long walk) from the hotel district, but be warned that it has been severely fire damaged by suspected arson in the late 1990s, and only the stone shell remains, together with some outbuildings, statues and a chapel (the latter rebuilt with American money). Inte and then native Tana guides (usually university students with good English or French) may give a good account of the Rova's features in return for a gratuity. The site offers good panoramic views of the city. While walking up the hill towards the palace you may be told by local guides that the Rova is shut for the day and to follow them elsewhere to a different attraction but the likelihood is that the gate will be open as normal. 2 Prime Minister's Palace (Andafiavaratra Palace) (Near the Rova). Sa-Th 10:00-17:00. The palace of the prime minister during the reigns of the last queens is now a museum with an exhibition of precious items saved from the fire of the Rova in 1995, such as the red jacket of Radama I, the royal coral jewels, various royal portraits and the diadem of the last queen. 3,000 Ar. (updated Sep 2016) 3 Lemurs' Park, Route Nationale n°1, PK 22, Katsaoka Imerintsiatosika - Route d'Ampefy (25 km West of Antananarivo on RN1), ☏ +261 20 22 234 36. 09:00 - 17:00, last admittance 16:00. A conservation park established by a French-Japanese charity which hosts mostly lemurs rescued from illegal captivity or attempted smuggling. It aims at reintroducing a part of their animals into their natural habitat. Over 6000 trees have been planted in this 5 hectare park preserving a lot of important flora and fauna of Madagascar. The park gives an opportunity to see at close range a variety of lemurs, which would be much more difficult in one of Madagascar's National Parks or in a Western zoo. Apart from lemurs, it has chameleons, turtles and several species of birds. The park also gives valuable employment to graduates from the local university as guides and free tours to local school children. Taking a guide is compulsory. Carry local cash as they do not accept cards. There is no public transport back from the park (taxi-brousses into town are mostly full when they pass here), so hire a taxi for the round trip; the park also offers the service of pic

Do

Jean Be Tours, Lot IVD 63 Ter AA, Ambohibahiny, Ankaraobato, ☏ +261 34 17 478 38, [email protected]. Jean Be Tours is a concierge travel guide service. The owner Jean is an experienced tour guide for Madagascar who speaks English and French. On individually organized trips, one can meet local people, take photographs and collect souvenirs and memories. Mada-Liberté Off Road Motorcycle Tours in Madagascar (4WD Off Road Tours). (updated Feb 2023)

Buy

Shops line both sides of Avenue de L'Independence. Shops for the Maki and Baobab clothing brand shops can be found a few streets away. The main attraction for this area is the large central market (Aanalakey Market), which includes a covered section selling bags, jewellery and clothing at relatively cheap prices (remember to haggle). Outside there's a plethora of fruit, vegetable and spice stalls, where large packs of vanilla pods can be bought. If you do not want to bargain then try Lisy, a collection of shops with similar produce to the market at excellent prices.

1 Analakely Market, Arabe Rahezavana. Daily 06:00-18:00. Central market with lots of fruits, local artifacts, unique souvenirs, etc. Be careful for your personal belongings. (updated Aug 2020) Outside the centre there is a dedicated tourist market which has some thirty stalls selling souvenirs and local crafts. Definitely worth a visit. There are many large western style supermarkets notable the chains Shoprite, 'Jumboscore', Leader price. and Supermaki. Any taxi driver can take you to one. However, most stock is imported from abroad and so include a significant mark up (although most goods are still below European prices). For fresh goods like fruit and vegetables, significant savings can be made by buying them from the local markets stalls dotted throughout the city.

Shopping malls and supermarkets Super U Supermarkets, Rue James Adrianisa. 08:00–20:00. Super U has many stores all over Antanarivo. lower price. (updated Jun 2023) 2 Tana Water Front Mall, ☏ +261 34-2596840. 09:00–20:00. Shopping mall with a food court and Super U Hypermarket. (updated Jun 2023) 3 Leader Price hypermarket, Ankorondrano. 09:00–19:30. many stores in Antananarivo. (updated Jun 2023) 4 Jumbo Score Hypermarket, Enceinte cora Ankorondrano, ☏ +261-20-2268456. 09:30-19:30. A large hypermarket. (updated Jun 2023) 5 L A City Mall, Alarobia (3 km north of downtown). 09:30-19:30. This is the largest shopping mall in Tana with 52 stores. There are stores for Orange, Airtel and Telma, there is also a Madagascar Airlines office and a Super U Hypermarket. (updated Apr 2018) 6 Akoor Digue Shopping mall, Amkazomanga. 09:00-19:00. a mall with a Jumbo score Hypermarket. has a bank with an ATM. (updated Apr 2018) 7 Supermaki. 07:00-23:00. A large chain of convenience stores all over Madagascar. (updated Jun 2023)

Banks and ATMs Most banks have an ATM, although they often limit you to how much you can draw out at once. It's relatively simple to change money from euros and dollars to ariary, and you often get a better rate t

Eat

1 La Table de Mariette, 11 rue George-V-Faravohitra, ☏ +261 20 22 216 02. This is a good choice for high quality Malagasy food. More expensive than many other restaurants. 2 Ile Bourbon. 3 La Brasserie at the France Hotel, 34 Ave de l'Independence. Very good and inexpensive. Try the calamari. Also vegetarian (non vegan) dishes, a very cheesy veg lasagne for 13,000 Ar. 4 Grill De Rova, Near Palace de Rova. Small menu. Great Zebu! 5 KudeTa, 16 rue de la Reunion, ☏ +261 20 22 281 54. A slick setting for excellent French-influenced Malagasy food. 6 Jasmin, Palace Analakely 101 Antananarivo (behind BNI bank). Lovely veg meal with tofu. Perhaps a bit pricey. €7 for two courses and drink.

Drink & nightlife

Lots of bottled water (no tap water!), the main brand is Pura Vida, relatively expensive, with a 1.5-L bottle costing about 3000 Ar THB (Three Horses Beer). Multi-awarded beer. Madagascar wine — variable but so much cheaper than the alternative (imported French wine). Bonbon Anglais — very sweet soft drink with bubble gum flavor, similar to South American Inka Cola. Excellent if you mix it with a little bit of THB. You may be presented with this when asking for limonade. Betsa-betsa — alcohol made from coconut water. Stronger than beer but not quite as potent as hard liquor. Litchel (or Vin Litchi in French) — lychee wine. Some brands are off-dry and quite nice, others are sickeningly sweet. Saint Claude — a local brand of rum with a hint of vanilla.

Sleep

Budget

1 Madagascar Underground Backpackers Hostel, 18 Lalana Rainitovo, ☏ +261-34-90907. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. 6-bed dorms and double rooms. A clean place for backpackers and travellers. Dorm beds 45,000 Ar per person. Double rooms from 55000-80,000 Ar. (updated Jun 2023) 2 Hotel Moonlight, 62 Rue Rainandriamampandry, ☏ +261 20 22-26870. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Single and double rooms with a TV, Wi-Fi, free coffee. Some rooms have bathrooms outside the room. Two communal terraces. from 30,000 till 55,000 Ar. (updated Jun 2023) 3 Hotel Niaouly, Laiana Tsiombikibo, ☏ +261 20-2262765. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. 22 single/double rooms. with own bathroom free Wi-Fi. some rooms have a balcony overlooking the Ambohijatovo garden. on the ground floor you will find a lounge with satellite tv. Bar. Restaurant. hotel reception is open 24 hours. From 55,000. (updated Jun 2023) 4 Hotel Chez Francis, Soarano, ☏ +261-20-2261365. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. 12 single/double rooms with own bathroom. has free Wi-Fi. From 55,000 Ar. (updated Jun 2023) 5 El Mundo Hotel, Lalana Ranafits Rahoerason (at the bottom of the steps.), ☏ +261 345091015. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. A clean double room with own hot water bathroom. Friendly owners. Free Wi-Fi. 35,000 Ar. (updated Jun 2023) 6 Aina Hotel, 17 Lalana Ratsimilaho, ☏ +261 20-2263051. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. A clean nice size double room with own hot water bathroom. Cable TV. Fast Wi-Fi. Can pay with a mastercard. 10% discount if you stay five nights or more. 76,000 Ar. (updated Apr 2023) 7 Andravoahangy hotel, Rue Me Albertini (not far from the Cotisse bus terminal and Tana waterfront mall). Clean double room with own bathroom. Free Wi-Fi. 35,000 Ar. (updated Jun 2023) 8 Villa Ny Telomiova, Imerinafovoany-talatamaty Lot 5B (6 km from the airport on the highway in too Antananarivo.), ☏ +261-20-2465616. Check-in: 24 hours, check-out: 12:00. A nice clean place with friendly owner and free Wi-Fi. There is a Super U and banks with ATMs just up the road. dorm bed 30,000Ar. (updated Jun 2023) 9 Manoir Rouge, Ivato airport (1 km (10 minutes walk) from airport), ☏ +261 32-0526097. Check-in: 24 hours, check-out: 12:00. There is a Supermaki and BFV bank nearby. Hotel arranges airport transfers for 15,000 Ar (2023). dorm bed €4, single room €7, double room €9 (shared bath) or €15 (private bath). (updated Jun 2023)

Mid-range 10 Le Logis. Résidence Hôtel. 75,000 Ar. 11 Karibotel (boulevard independence). Good alternative for Sakamange. More locals than tourists. €40 for doub

Go next

Travel out of the capital is by two modes: road or air. As of 2017 there is no passenger rail service from the capital. Road transport is by bus to limited destinations, taxi-brousse (shared taxi) to a variety of destinations or by car rental (usually with driver). Although travel by taxi-brousse is guaranteed to try one's patience and sanity, there is quite possibly no better way to meet and interact with the locals and experience Madagascar as the Malagasy do. Air travel is the recommended method, due to the poor state of many roads, and Antananarivo is the hub city for the national carrier Madagascar Airlines. Recommended next stops are Morondava and Nosy Be.