Amman

Understand

A city built of white stone, Amman's growth has skyrocketed since it was made the capital of Trans-Jordan in the early 1920s, but especially after the 1948 and 1967 wars with Israel when hundreds of thousands of Palestinian refugees settled there. Another wave arrived after the second Iraq war, with Iraqi refugees forming the majority of newcomers.

Its history, however, goes back many millennia. The settlement mentioned in the Bible as Rabbath Ammon was the capital of the Ammonites, which later fell to the Assyrians. It was dominated briefly by the Nabataeans before it became a great Roman trade center and was renamed Philadelphia. After the Islamic conquests, Amman became part of the Islamic Empire until the Ottomans were forced out by the Allies, with the help of the Hashemites, who formed a monarchy that continues to rule to the present. Today, West Amman is a lively, modern city. The eastern part of the city, where the majority of Amman's residents live, is predominantly the residential area of the working class and is much older than the west. While possessing few sites, Amman makes a comfortable base from which to explore the northwestern parts of the country. Amman is a very diverse city. Palestinian, Iraqi, Circassian, Armenian, and many other ethnic groups reside in Amman. Amman never stops growing. Despite the common assertion that most Jordanians understand English, that knowledge is quite limited. Charmingly, the most commonly known English phrase seems to be "Welcome to Jordan". The only non-Arabic language used in signposting is English, and you will find "Tourist Police" near the major monuments. It never hurts to know a few useful phrases and come prepared with a translation book, or to have the names and addresses of places you are going written in Arabic for use with a taxi driver. Remember, if you're travelling during the holy month of Ramadan, it is almost impossible to buy food from sunrise to sundown, even for tourists. Big shopping malls like City Mall don't let food stores like McDonald's, Sunset and Starbucks sell food during these hours.

Getting there

for comprehensive and complete visa details when entering Jordan in Aqaba or Amman, and possibilities to waive your visa fee.

By plane 1 Queen Alia International Airport (AMM IATA). Most travellers to Amman (and to Jordan) will arrive via this airport.Money exchange is available before passport control along with a single ATM (which doesn't take MasterCard); more ATMs are available after customs. This ATM might charge you an additional fee to your regular bank fees (up to 10 JD), so if you have to pay the 40 JD visa fee, you may want to exchange for it before you arrive. At the immigration line you will pay for the visa at the first counter, and then pass through to the second counter to receive the stamp. (Sometimes the visa and Jordan Pass queues may close and redirect you to another queue further down the airport corridors.) Payment by credit card is accepted; however, the credit card machines can be unreliable so you may have to pay in cash.There is only one post office and no postbox in the airport, in arrivals hall of Terminal 1 near the Lost and Found office. If closed, you can put your letters and postcards under the curtain. (updated May 2023) Early arrival: If you have an early arrival flight and don't want to pay a full-day hotel for just 4 or 5 hr staying there, you can wait in the baggage claim hall at the airport. There are some 50 seats or so available—not too comfortable but acceptable. Getting there and away:

By bus – The Sariyah Airport Express bus leaves from a marked bus stop on Level 1 (Arrivals) and costs 3.30 JD. It runs from the airport around the clock every hour on the hour, with additional half-hourly departures 08:30–17:30. It is necessary to purchase the ticket from a kiosk outside the airport exit—the kiosk is easily identified after exit but often only takes cash and frequently does not have enough change for larger bills. As of 2025, payment by card seems to work. Note that during night time there is no service to the airport. Additionally, this service may be run by a minibus with extremely limited seating and space for baggage. For most travellers staying in inner Amman, this is a cost effective option to bring you into the city, where you can then call an Uber or Careem for 1–3 JD to your hotel, or leave at the terminus (Northern Station / Tabarbour) and take the BRT (Bus Rapid Transfer) to the Jordan Museum for 0.610 JD. Beware that taxis tend to crowd the bus stops, especially at the final stop, the North Bus Station. These taxis will generally overcharge and very aggressively attempt to sell to you on arrival, i

Getting around

On foot Some areas of Amman are not easily navigated on foot. Be aware when walking through areas of Amman that are not familiar to you because the walkable route might be inconvenient. Unlike other cities frequented by tourists, tools such as Google Maps may not provide an easily traversable route even when used in walking mode. In this case, a walk that appears to be only a few minutes on Google Maps may take half an hour or longer due to unforeseen obstacles. For example, in some areas of Amman you may encounter roads that quickly become highways/expressways, roads up very steep hills, roads that lack a functional sidewalk, roads that have sidewalks but not functional pedestrian crossings at busy intersections, parts of sidewalks that are heavily obstructed by vegetation, and crossings that require the use of an overpass that is far away. It is not impossible to walk in Amman, but some areas of the city are designed primarily for vehicle traffic and it is better to arrange for a ride.

By taxi Yellow and grey taxis are readily available and can be easily found anywhere in Amman. Hail them in the street as Jordanians do. Taxis for Amman will have a green logo on the driver and passenger doors. The grey ones have an advertisement on top of the car. Resist hailing cabs with another color logo; these cabs are based in other cities and it is illegal for them to pick up fares in Amman. White taxis are shared, and the driver can pick up other fares along the way, which can lead to confusion. Taxis in Amman are required by law to use meters and most drivers will reset the meter as soon as a fare is picked up. Most trips within Amman should be under 2 JD, and even a ride from one end of town to the other should not cost more than 5 JD. Taxis are not required to use meters after midnight and drivers often expect double the normal fare for late night trips. Beware of drivers offering to give you a short ride "for free" as a "Welcome to Jordan", especially if you're walking between the Citadel and the Roman Theater; they will then offer to wait for you to take you to your next stop, and will use the "free" ride as an excuse not to start the meter. They will then charge you exorbitantly when you arrive at your next stop. Also, be wary of the private cars posing as taxis around the bus stands and stations. They will offer their services asking you to pay as much as you want but later on insist on pocketing more money from you. In case you get one, insist paying the standard price which should not be more than 2–3 JD, anything more is a rip-off. The base rate fo

See

Although the capital of a diverse kingdom, Amman is not what one would call "packed" with things to see, making it a great gateway to explorations further afield. Even so, the city does hold a few items of historical and cultural interest (allow maximum 2 days to see them).

In the city 1 Amman Citadel (جبل القلعة, Jabal al-Qal'a) (If you don't want to go the whole way back to the entrance when getting out, try the southern end of the fence at the very west of the citadel complex). A national historic site at the center of downtown Amman. Its history represents significant civilizations that stretched across continents and prospered for centuries, as one empire gave rise to the next. Settlement at the Citadel extends over 7,000 years. 3 JD (free with Jordan Pass). (updated Nov 2019) 2 Jordan Archaeological Museum (in the citadel). The museum hosts a small but interesting collection of antiquities from all over Jordan. Fragments of the Dead Sea Scrolls which used to be housed here are now being transferred to the new National Museum of Jordan (see below). 3 Temple of Herakles (in the citadel). Roman period remains. 4 Umayyad Palace (in the citadel). In the northern portion of the Citadel, it offers a great view of Amman. Byzantine Church (in the citadel). Dating to the 5th-6th centuries. 5 Roman Theater. Built during the reign of Antonius Pius, 138-161AD, this impressive theater could seat up to 6,000 people. Next to it are a folklore museum and a popular culture museum which the entrance fee also covers. Next to it is the Odeon theater, a smaller theater built at the same time. There are two small museums (Folklore and Popular Traditions) to the right and left as you enter. 2 JD (free with Jordan Pass). 6 Roman Nymphaeum. A partly-preserved Roman fountain. 7 Ammonite Watchtower (Rujm Al-Malfouf). A circular watchtower built by the Ammonite kingdom some time between 500-1000 BC. 8 Rainbow Street. Near the 1st Circle in Jabal Amman, this is an interesting area to walk around and explore, it is named after the old Rainbow Cinema which is now out of use, but the area has experienced a revival with many of the old houses being restored and put into use, in the area there are some cafes and bars including Books@cafe and Wild Jordan, both with great views, a Caribbean restaurant, an Indian restaurant, a sushi joint, and an ice cream shop. There is a hammam, and the Royal Film Commission which sometimes holds outdoor screenings on its patio and some interesting small shops. Across the street from the British Council on Rainbow St., there is the refresh

Do

See the sunset from the view point near the Citadel. But pay also your attention to the time of the muezzin call. If you listen to it from the view point, where the whole city lies before you, you get the unforgettable acoustic impression. Due to accelerated growth the past several decades, the styles of living differs considerably as one travels from east to west throughout Amman. Visitors desiring a more exotic and traditional experience should explore "Old Amman", the central downtown, or 3 Balad, which features many souqs, shops, and street vendors. Also known as the Souq with traditional sights and smells of the spice market, and shop for authentic souvenirs. Take a walk through the narrow alleyways and corners and negotiate (haggle) the price with friendly vendors. A maze of streets with everything from a fruit market to spices, souvenirs, clothes, hardware. Drink a cool glass of Sugar Cane juice, watch the talented young men make artistic sand designs inside the glass bottles, go and smoke a shisha (hubbly bubbly) in any of the numerous street cafes. Enjoy some tasty falafel in the famous Hashem cafe, enjoy a mansaf dish at Jerusalem restaurant or a nice slice of tasty Kanafe from Habibeh sweets. Busy crowded streets with the real taste of Jordan. Abdali, a section of downtown Amman, is being transformed into a modern center for tourists and natives. The plan includes a broad pedestrian boulevard where visitors can shop, eat, or do numerous other activities. New office buildings and residential hi-rises have been built, and more are on the way. The massive, modern Abdali Mall draws Amman's young and monied. The cultural scene in Amman has seen some increased activities, notably cultural centers and clubs such as Makan House, Al Balad Theater, the Amman Filmmakers Cooperative, Remall, and Zara gallery. Around the 1st of September the Jordan Short Film Festival takes place. 4 Amman Waves Aqua Park and Resort, 15, Amman 00962 (12 km from the 7th circle along the airport road), ☏ +962 6 412 1704. 10:00-18:00. The biggest water park in Jordan (80,000 m²), opened in 2004.

Learn There are many universities one can study in. Irbid, Madaba, and Aqaba also hold many educational institutes for foreigners. Jordan's universities are world-renowned and respected for their hospitality and methods of instruction.

Buy

All ATMs charge a relatively high fee for withdrawing money. In Jordan you can withdraw money from your credit card in various currency exchange places. A reliable and low-priced currency exchange service is Alawneh Exchange. They have multiple locations in the city, including downtown. They charge a low percentage fee for withdrawing money from your credit card. Many locals use that agency. You need to show your passport.

If it's shopping you're after, then the pedestrian 1 "Sharia'a Al Wakalat" (Brands Street) offers a wide selection of international brand names to choose from. Furthermore, there are the 2 City Mall, Jordan's biggest shopping mall, the older and huge 3 Mecca Mall aimed at women (walking distance from City Mall), the 4 Abdoun Mall (also aimed at women), the 5 Park Plaza, and 6 Baraka Mall, for those seeking indulgence and the odd US$500 to spare—all designer names. Amman has numerous antique dealers littered throughout the city. Those in the western parts of the city will most likely be served by those with a competent grasp of the English language, but you run the risk of the items being a bit overpriced.

Some interesting, original souvenir items that one may consider taking home are:

a keffiyeh, the traditional checkered headpiece of Jordanian men an antique brass tea/coffee pot, distinctly Middle Eastern with its artistic etching and curved spout olive wood carvings of various objects or figures can be purchase nearly everywhere hand-crafted Jordanian daggers hand-made Bedouin-style embroidered clothing spices. Also Rainbow Street is populated with small antique stores, clothing, restaurants, sheesha tea shops and the well-known Falafel al-Quds, reputedly the "best" falafel in the Middle East (some Saudis even financed the opening of one in Saudi Arabia). Further down the street you will find a small park that overlooks the city. Further still on a side street, during the warmer months, is a side-walk flea market. At the end of this street and down some stairs you will find Wild Jordan.

Eat

Amman features many different styles of restaurants, from traditional Middle Eastern fare to more familiar Western fast food and franchises. Prices range from ultra-cheap to moderate, depending on one's taste buds. For those on a budget, Arabic food is very affordable and can be obtained everywhere. Arabic food generally consists of several general basic groups. Meat dishes will generally consist of lamb or chicken; beef is more rare and pork is never offered. Shwarma, which is cooked lamb meat with a special sauce rolled in piece of flat bread, is a local favorite. Rice and flat bread are typical sides to any meal. Jordan's specialty, mansaf, is a delicious lamb and rice meal, typically eaten with your hands. Arabs serve plenty of cucumbers and tomatoes, many times accompanied by a white yoghurt sauce. Another favorite is chick pea-based foods such as falafel, hummus, and fuul. One of Amman's most famous local foods restaurant is Hashem in the downtown. This restaurant is one of the favourites of the Royal family and you will see a lot of photographs of the Royal family of Jordan dining in this literal hole-in-the-wall. See the listing below. In an alley off King Faisal St. is Habibah, which serves traditional east Mediterranean sweets such as baklava, but is most famous for serving a traditional dessert known as knafeh nabelseyyeh in reference to its origin from the Palestinian city of Nablus. 800 fils for a "half quarter kilo", which is enough for one person (Oct 2018). The original store is easy to spot with the long queue spilling onto the street: if you're just there for the food rather than the vibe, try the new extension that opened 100 m further up on King Hussein St. Do not forget the good surprises coming from the countless shawarma outlets and other very cheap places.

Budget All these are in the city center:

1 Zahret Al Madaen Restaurant & Butchery, Complex No 116, Quraish St 116. (updated May 2022) 2 Pizza Roma Cafe, Amman Pasha Hotel, Al Shabsugh St 4. (updated May 2022) 3 Rouhi AlAqili Restaurant, MadhhAr-Reslan St.. (updated May 2022) 4 Shahrazad Restaurant, Basman St.. (updated May 2022) 5 Auberge restaurant, Mu'Ath Bin Jabal Street. (updated May 2022)

Mid-range Shawermat Reem (at the 2nd Circle). The allegedly best shawarma in Amman is found in this street-side kiosk. It is very famous and there are even lines at 02:00. (updated May 2022) Lebnani snack. This is a great place to eat Middle Eastern sandwiches, delicious ice cream and cocktails. (updated May 2022) Books@Cafe - a beautiful old house turned into the then-first

Drink & nightlife

For the coffee lover, Amman's Starbucks locations (Swefieh, Abdoun, Taj Mall, City Mall, Mecca Mall, Abdali Mall) offer various mugs, tumblers, and to-go cups with distinctive Jordanian and Middle Eastern flair. Those who crave gourmet coffee have a number of choices along Rainbow St. off of First Circle in Jabal Amman with other shops sprinkled throughout the city. Alcoholic beverages (beer, wine, liquor), can be purchased in liquor stores across the city. Most are distinguishable by an advertisement for Amstel or some like beverage outside. There are also bars up and down Rainbow St. in Jabal Amman and throughout Abdoun. Drinking age is 18 but some bars and cafes might card you and admit 21+ customers only. Jordan's national beer is aptly called Petra Beer, and there are many liquor shops and kiosks around Amman where you can find it. There are two types: 'black' and 'red', which have 8% and 10% alcohol percentage respectively. The red is usually slightly more expensive than the black, but you should expect to pay 2-2.5 JD for a 500 ml (18 imp fl oz; 17 US fl oz) can at a shop. You will often find that bars prefer Amstel and other international brands and do not have Petra beer available. The local spirit is arak, an aniseed or licorice flavoured spirit similar to the Greek ouzo. At 50% alcohol by volume, it is usually served with water and ice, causing the clear liquid to become milky white. For night clubs and bars visit the cosmopolitan West Amman where many Western and American franchises operate here. The nightlife in Amman is not as vibrant as other Middle Eastern cities like Beirut or Tel Aviv, however, there are a few clubs and bars in Amman.

1 Picadelli Pub (Piccadilly Pop) (At Abdali Bus Station). Friendly place that serves alcohol, food, and complimentary snacks 3 JD for beer and wine. 2 La Calle (on Rainbow street). This multi-level bar is known for its half-price happy hour specials.

3 Jafra Café (across from the post office on King Faisal Street (near Hashems), it is upstairs from the DVD store of the same name). A great spot right in the heart of the downtown area. It has an old, rustic feel to it with more young locals than tourists. They have a great selection of nargileh (water pipe) and the entire menu is reasonably priced. Expect to pay about 10 JD for dinner, including an appetizer, kebab, fresh juice and nargileh. Live music starts at 21:00 most night. There is another one near Paris circle in Jebel Al Webdeh. 4 Maestro Bar. Jazz and pub. There have been complaints about their entry policy. The main places people who live i

Sleep

Amman has the full range of accommodation options from very basic 1-star accommodation to luxurious 5-star facilities.

Budget 1 Cliff Hostel (in one of the alleys in the souq nearby the central post office -- there's a small and old sign). An option for low budget travellers. In the winter it can get very chilly, make sure that you ask for more blankets. Sometimes they heat your room if you ask for that. 5 JD dorm. 2 Farah Hotel, 6 King Ghazi Street, ☏ +962 64651 443, [email protected]. Check-out: From 4 JD for a dorm. Good backpacker option, has common area with satellite TV & movies, organises tours & very friendly English speaking staff. (updated Feb 2019) 3 Jordan Tower Hotel (next to Roman Amphitheatre), ☏ +962-6-4614161, [email protected]. Shared trips at reasonable rates to all tourist sites. Dorm rooms male & female - 2-, 3- & 4-bed rooms some with ensuite bathroom and air conditioning and satellite TV. Friendly English-speaking staff. Cheap light snacks and airport pick ups. From 9 JD incl breakfast and free WiFi. 4 Sun Rise Hotel (Abdali station, King Hussein Street), [email protected]. One-star hotel with good location near Abdali station. Safe area, near Capitol Police Center. TV, free internet, free WiFi and air cond or fan in the room; rooms are very basic, those in the back are colder. Dorm from 3.50 JD, different rooms available from 8-20 JD (depending on the mood of the manager, so take care). 5 Sydney Hotel (Prince Mohammad St, Downtown), ☏ +962 6 4641122, [email protected]. Nice people, clean and safe. 10 JD for a single, 14 JD for a double. Breakfast is 2 JD. 6 Normas Hotel (King Faisal St. - in front of Hashem Restaurant, Downtown), ☏ +962 6 465 1 465, [email protected]. Super friendly and helpful, clean and safe. 10 JD for a single, 12 JD for a double. 7 Zidian Hotel. Wi-Fi, hot shower, great view from the rooms on the back side. Single from 15 JD. 8 Palace Hotel, King Faisal St, Downtown, ☏ +962 6 4624326, [email protected]. 30 JD (with shower & satellite TV), 18 JD (shared facilities) for a double with breakfast included. 9 Canary Hotel (on Jebel Amman near the Jett Bus Station). 30 JD for a double. Abbasi Palace Hotel, Saqf Al Sail at Quraysh st (Downtown), ☏ +962 6 4611686, [email protected]. Check-out: noon. Clean and well-run. Good staff, knowledgeable and helpful. Price includes breakfast. Free Wi-Fi and internet. Free tea. 6 JD for a dorm, incl. breakfast. (updated Jun 2011) Al-Harmin Hotel. 7 JD for double. Amman Castle Hotel. Seems to be more catered to males and

Go next

The bus stop at the 7th circle is less than 100 m south of the circle. This stop serves the airport, Madaba (0.75 JD), Kerak and others. The small yellow "airport express" labeled bus is easily recognized and the driver will also stop on other places if you wave at him. To reach the 7th circle from downtown take bus 41 or any headed to Wadi As-Seir and ask to be dropped of at Dawaar As-Saabe'a (7th circle). Many buses going by the 7th circle also take a turn at the 4th circle coming from Trababour Bus Station. The Trababour Bus Station serves all destinations to the north and to the western border. To get there from downtown, take Serviis (a sedan car that works like a bus) #6 from Raghadan Tourist Service Station (Raghadan Al Seyaha) which is located right next to the Colosseum. The Trababour Bus Station is the last stop on the Serviis' route. Many budget hotels like Palace or Farah organize day tours for about 16-18 JD which seems a sensible price, but they do not include entrance fees which could be important. These tours are open to people who don't sleep at the hotel. Classical tours are Jerash, Ajlun, Um Qais, Madaba, Mount Nebo, Baptism site, Dead Sea, and Castles. Cities:

Madaba — Just 45 min away and known as the 'City of Mosaics' for its Byzantine and Umayyad mosaics, especially a large Byzantine-era mosaic map of Palestine and the Nile delta at St. George Church. 0.75 JD by bus from the 7th circle. Jerash (and Ajlun (Ajloun) Castle) — An ancient Roman City. Besides Petra and Wadi Rum, the most famous site in Jordan. 1 h, 0.75 JD from Trababour Bus Station. Get off right before the Hippodrome, 1 km before the bus station, and enter down the side road through the museum. A private taxi from Amman can be hired for 8-10 JD one-way. Expect to pay as much as 40 JD for a return trip and taxi driver staying on site while you look around. Ajlun Castle is only a short side trip from Jerash, either by bus from the junction south of the Hippodrome or by Taxi. Umm Qais — A town north, close to the ruins of the ancient Gadara. Best reached by (rental) car or taxi. Dead Sea — Mt. Nebo (1 JD) and Jesus' Baptism Site (Al-Maghtas) on the Jordan River are essentially on the way, so consider them as well if you have your own car or taxi. The Dead Sea Amman City Resort is about 20 JD with free showers and swimming pools, but no lockers, towels or mud. Taxi services for travel to the Dead Sea can be purchased for the day 20 JD if you hail a cab from downtown, down town hotels charge 35 JD for the same service. There are a handful of bus lines that also run from Am