Dhofar Governorate

城市概覽

Dhofar is a rugged, sparsely-inhabited region encompassing both extremely arid desert and verdantly tropical wadis. The Dhofar Mountains run parallel to the coastline and attract the khareef (southwest monsoon) from the Indian Ocean, resulting in cool, wet summers from June to September and transforming the landscape into a verdant paradise. The rains do not cross the mountains, though – travel just a short distance to the northwest and you could easily die of thirst. Dhofar also occupies part of the Rub al Khali (Empty Quarter), that vast, uninhabited sea of sand which covers a large part of the southern Arabian peninsula. The Dhofari population is comprised of several distinct ethnic groups. These include the nomadic Badawi (Bedu) who live in the interior deserts, the Jebali (Jiballi) who live in the coastal mountains, and the Hadhari, who live along the coasts and in larger settlements. The Jebali tribes share many cultural and linguistic traits with tribes in Ethiopia and Eritrea, and most still herd cattle, camels and goats in the same districts as they have for generations. Omanis of African descent also make up a percentage of the population; most immigrated from Zanzibar when it was once part of Oman's maritime empire. Dhofar has not always been united with nor had good relations with northern Oman, the most recent conflict being the Dhofar Rebellion (1962-1976). The defeat of the rebels in 1976 was partly accomplished through radical reform and modernization of the Omani state, which has subsequently led to much improved relations between the two regions.

Read Wilfred Thesiger, Arabian Sands. First published in 1959 and considered to be a classic of travel literature, the book documents the author's travels across the Rub al Khali (Empty Quarter) in 1945 and 1950, with the assistance of local tribesmen. Ian Gardiner, In the Service of the Sultan: A First Hand Account of the Dhofar Insurgency. An intelligent, gripping memoir by a British officer who fough

如何抵達

Most visitors fly to Salalah, which has Dhofar's only commercial airport with service to Muscat, Dubai, Sharjah, Jeddah, and Doha. For the adventurous it is possible to drive from Muscat to Salalah in about 12 hours. From Nizwa the new Highway 31 heads inland through oil fields and a few small settlements. An alternative coastal route heading south from Sur will become viable in the next couple of years as the final stretch of highway linking Shuwaimiyah and Hasik is completed. There are few petrol stations along either route, so it is advisable to fill up at every opportunity. Public buses also ply the main highway between Muscat and Salalah; see the Salalah article for details.

當地交通

A rental car is necessary to really explore the region. Most areas are now easily accessible with a 2WD, but there are still a handful of sights (e.g. Shisr and some of the more remote wadis and beaches) that require a 4WD, particularly during the khareef.

必看景點

1 The Land of Frankincense Sites. There are four sites that have been collectively inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list, including the ruins of Shisr and Wadi Dawkah Natural Park (listed below), Al Baleed (listed in the Salalah article), and Sumhuram (listed in Taqah). 2 Shisr (Ash Shisr, Ubar, Wubar, Wabar) (off of Hwy 43). This ruined fortified settlement was once a watering stop for caravans on the frankincense trail, and discovered in 1992 with the aid of satellite imaging. Scholars disagree as to whether this is indeed the legendary site of Ubar or 'Iram of the Pillars' as described in the Bible; however it has been determined that it was likely destroyed in the aftermath of an earthquake. The site itself is interesting, but not spectacular. 3 Wadi Dawkah Natural Park (off of Hwy 31). This dry wadi has an estimated 5,000 frankincense trees within a 9 km² area, the oldest of which are estimated to be more than 200 years old. The sap is still harvested here by the Bait Kethir Bedu tribe, with individual trees owned by different clans and families. Visitors can simply park by the road and walk over. Free.

Itineraries

Salalah to Rakhyut/Dhalkut (near the Yemeni border)

Dhalkut (Dalkut) is the furthest west you can drive, as the border with Yemen is closed. The drive to Dhalkut requires 3-3½ hours each way, making for a long day. For a more leisurely drive, the turn off for Fizayah is a good spot to turn around, or alternatively consider spending the night in Rakhyut.

Drive west from Salalah on Highway 47 for 30 km, until reaching Mughsayl (Al Maghsail / Al Mughsail). On the left is a 5 km-long stretch of lovely 4 beach with shaded picnic facilities. During the khareef the waves often reach 2-3 m in height and the beach is closed; during the winter the water is clear and perfect for body surfing. A little further on there is a turnoff (also on the left) for 5 Marneef Cave with Mughsayl's famous blowholes – best during the khareef, when during high

體驗活動

Diving. The diving season runs during the dry season, from early October to the end of May. There are a number of good dive sites off of Mirbat, as well as near Mughsayl; the dive centers listed in the Salalah and Mirbat pages offer organized dive trips to these spots. There are also some good dive spots including shipwrecks near the Khuriya Muriya Islands, although as of this writing the only way to get there is to hire a fishing boat. Birdwatching. Dhofar is an important layover spot for migratory birds in the fall and spring, and also a winter habitat for a number of species. The best birdwatching season coincides with the dry season, from October to the end of May.

美食

Dhofar is well-known for honey, which is harvested several times a year. There are several distinctive seasonal types, the most unusual of which is frankincense honey, harvested in April and available in the souqs.